Timing and TDC

[71-440]

Thanks for all the replies!

I started it this morning and it started right up.  I have to goose the gas a little to keep it running until it warms up. Choke is not working properly.
It's a Edlebrock thunder series 800cfm with electric choke.

I picked up a vacuum gauge this morning also.



I will wait until I get the timing tape in and piston stop. The balancer is graduated but a little hard to see as it's
chromed. Then recheck everything using both the vacuum gauge and timing light.

On a side note I got my horn relay from Roseville AND NOW MY HORNS WORK. 

[CudaMoparRay]

Very informative thread as I have to do the same. 

[Chryco Psycho]

See I never worried about the timing marks & tune by ear , threw out my timing light a long time ago

[HP_Cuda]

Usually the more initial timing you run the harder it is to start the car.

I'd be interested in seeing what kind of vacuum you are pulling. The most common setup w/o vacuum advance is 14-16 initial and 20 degrees of mechanical. I don't care much for vacuum advance so this is why I don't bother.

[Jim AAR]

See I never worried about the timing marks & tune by ear , threw out my timing light a long time ago

Yup, that's what I do, timing is pretty much different for each engine and setup, altitude, humidity etc., they are just guidelines, that's why they usually give you a range to follow. I do hook up the vacuum gauge to see where it's at though. 

[Mopar451]

Be certain to disconnect your battery before you get started.  You could imagine the bad day you would have with an accidental blip of the starter with a piston stop installed.  Like others have said, remove your plugs because it will make rotating the engine by hand possible.  Sneak up slowly to each side of TDC as you nudge the stop and make your marks precisely. The use of a dial back timing light comes in handy and eliminates the need for timing tape on you chromed balancer.

[71-440]

Be certain to disconnect your battery before you get started.  You could imagine the bad day you would have with an accidental blip of the starter with a piston stop installed.  Like others have said, remove your plugs because it will make rotating the engine by hand possible.  Sneak up slowly to each side of TDC as you nudge the stop and make your marks precisely. The use of a dial back timing light comes in handy and eliminates the need for timing tape on you chromed balancer.

Good advice! 
Thanks!

[cudabob496]

Usually the more initial timing you run the harder it is to start the car.

I'd be interested in seeing what kind of vacuum you are pulling. The most common setup w/o vacuum advance is 14-16 initial and 20 degrees of mechanical. I don't care much for vacuum advance so this is why I don't bother.

I eliminated the hard start part by putting a switch on the small red wire to the MSD box.
I hit start, which begins the motor turning over, then flip MSD switch.  Better than
timing retard at startup.

[71-440]

Got the piston stop and tape today. Unfortunately have to work this weekend. I will try and get started on it Sunday late afternoon.
If not may have to wait till end of week.

I'll post up how it goes as soon as I get working on it.

Thanks everyone for your advice!

[71-440]

I'll finally get some time this weekend to work on the timing.

One question- How far in do you thread the stop portion ( center rod all thread)of the PS.
When you reverse the direction of the crank
and come up on the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve will open, correct?
Don't want to damage a valve.

Aluminum Mopar heads.

Thanks!

[Chryco Psycho]

Put the engine @ TDC & thread the stop in until it hits the piston , back the piston away & turn it in approx another 4 full turns

[71-440]

Put the engine @ TDC & thread the stop in until it hits the piston , back the piston away & turn it in approx another 4 full turns

OK. 

Thanks for the help!

[71-440]

OK so today I had a little time to play with the new timing light and new vacuum gauge.

I figured before I use the piston stop let me see what the marks on the balancer with both timing light and vacuum gauge hooked up
tells me.
Warmed the car up to 180* which is normal operating temp. No problem starting and warmed up in a couple of minutes.
Looked at the vacuum gauge and was reading 10-11 in.hg. Timing 22* rpm 850.  So I advanced the timing untill the vacuum gauge read 15in.hg car smoothed out
Not real choppy rpm increased. timing light read 30*. Ran it up to 2500 rpm timing read  40+*.

So I went back to 22* on the timing light. Shut it down. Pulled the distributor cap to see if any bushing was installed for the advance before I continue(MSD DISTRIBUTOR)
No bushing installed but I did find corrosion on the magnetic pickup and the reluctor.

I will cal MSD to se if I can get a new magnetic pickup and clean the reluctor.

Any thoughts and suggestions?

I guess I need to pull the plugs and use the piston stop to see if the balancer is that far off.

(440 Mopar purple cam 484 lift 284 duration aluminum heads.)

Thanks in advance for any suggestions and thoughts.

[Chryco Psycho]

If the timing marks are correct you only need to limit the timing curve .
At least cleaning the reluctor & pick up is a must but it sounds like it is working well even being corroded .
The initial timing seems to high for that cam , the vacuum & running deosn't lie though

[71-440]

If the timing marks are correct you only need to limit the timing curve .
At least cleaning the reluctor & pick up is a must but it sounds like it is working well even being corroded .
The initial timing seems to high for that cam , the vacuum & running deosn't lie though

I'm going to clean up the reluctor and buy a new magnetic pickup.
And I think your right just limit the advance.

I found a site that makes 2 bushings to limit the advance to 10* or 14*.
MSD's only goes from 18* to 28* in six different increments.
Once I get it cleaned up and get the new pickup I'll start off with 26* initial and get the 10* bushing  for the advance and see how it goes.

Thanks!