Unseize a Frozen Engine

[oldmoparbuff]

I look forward to your results using liquid wrench and mechanical advantage.
I would think the rings will fail first.

[jimynick]

Not that I think it'd free this engine magically, but there is a You Tube vid where the lads are cleaning a BBC by electrolysis and it seems to do a pretty good job! You'd need a suitable sized plastic barrel and a battery charger, but it'd get rid of a bunch of the rust in the worst case scenario. Good luck! 

[torredcuda]

guys...fyi...

look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs   

This is a controlled test for freeing rusted bolts using, wd40, kb blaster, kroil, tranny fluid mixed with acetone...  and a couple of others, and comparing them all to plain heat.   In this youtube...good ole liquid wrench beat them all, and had the plus of being about the cheapest as well.   Heat from a torch worked about as well as the liquid wrench as well...but...of course you cant always apply heat.     

Its liquid wrench for me !!

I watched that video a while back but my comment to the guy was that he didn`t allow enough time for the penatrants to work. I have found that days, not hours or minutes is the key for penetrating oils to work effectively. I would like to see another test with a much longer time period before trying to undo the fastener.

[chargerdon]

guys...fyi...

look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs   

This is a controlled test for freeing rusted bolts using, wd40, kb blaster, kroil, tranny fluid mixed with acetone...  and a couple of others, and comparing them all to plain heat.   In this youtube...good ole liquid wrench beat them all, and had the plus of being about the cheapest as well.   Heat from a torch worked about as well as the liquid wrench as well...but...of course you cant always apply heat.     

Its liquid wrench for me !!

I watched that video a while back but my comment to the guy was that he didn`t allow enough time for the penatrants to work. I have found that days, not hours or minutes is the key for penetrating oils to work effectively. I would like to see another test with a much longer time period before trying to undo the fastener.

Actually, the same guy did repeat tests with liquid wrench vs gibbs and seafoam as Gibbs had won a similar test and seafoam won against its competitors.   So, this was the 3 champs against each other.    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dObEK7V-TFU

in this one liquid wrench came in just behind Gibbs but 4 times cheaper and better than seafoam.    He also, repeated the tests waiting 24 hours before removing the bolts...  Again, Gibbs edged out Liquid wrench..but just by small margin and costs 4 times as much.   And yes the 24 hr waiting made about a 10% improvement in all 3 of them.   

Ill stick with liquid wrench !! 

[1970Cuda]

Thanks for those YouTube videos folks. I watched them both and it does seem that liquid wrench is the way to go, at least as a start. And since I'm not in any hurry, I can start tomorrow with liquid wrench, on both the top of the block (head side) and the bottom skirt direction.

I also ordered a BernzOmatic heat torch (TS8000T) with a heating tip (uses Map-Pro gas, which gets hotter than propane) and after probably a week or two of soaking the block, I'll apply the heat and more lubricant/penetrating oil.

Hopefully I'll have some success with that. And I should be able to combine it with the wax too.

I'll update this thread in a few weeks and let everyone know if I'd had any success. Again, I really appreciate the feedback.

Good luck on your projects too everyone.

[HP_Cuda]

I like Kroil a lot but I cannot believe no one has mentioned Marvel Mystery oil.

I helped a friend rescue a old 60's Chevy C10 from his ranch and it was seized up. Took out the spark plugs, poured Marvel Mystery Oil and then dragged the Chevy in gear with a Ford Van backwards (funny combo eh?) and got it to break free.

The sucker even fired up (rats evacuating everywhere!) and he drove it home with one headlight and one taillight. What a day!!!

Try out MM Oil on the topside for a couple of days and then flip her over and do the same to see if you can the pistons to break free.

[chargerdon]

Thanks for those YouTube videos folks. I watched them both and it does seem that liquid wrench is the way to go, at least as a start. And since I'm not in any hurry, I can start tomorrow with liquid wrench, on both the top of the block (head side) and the bottom skirt direction.

I also ordered a BernzOmatic heat torch (TS8000T) with a heating tip (uses Map-Pro gas, which gets hotter than propane) and after probably a week or two of soaking the block, I'll apply the heat and more lubricant/penetrating oil.

Hopefully I'll have some success with that. And I should be able to combine it with the wax too.

I'll update this thread in a few weeks and let everyone know if I'd had any success. Again, I really appreciate the feedback.

Good luck on your projects too everyone.

after a week or two of soaking the block, just put a short two by four on the top of the piston, and beat on it with a sledge.   Of course remove the connecting rod bolts first, and if possible remove the crankshaft main bolts so that it can move..   

Good luck

[1970Cuda]

Hi All,

So a quick update - I have been soaking it with both Gibbs and also Kroil (both on top and on the underside). I also purchased MAP-Pro gas and used a little heat on it too. Then I turned the engine up-side-down and removed the connecting rod bolts from one of the pistons and using a small sledge hammer (only three lbs.), I was able to move one piston about two inches off the crank. (I used a small metal pipe on the underside of the piston, with metal caps on both ends.)

So I have seen some progress, but I think I need to use heat again and also purchase a larger sledge hammer too (probably like 8 or 10 lbs).

Of course, I've been also trying to remove some of the rust too from the piston walls, scraping the insides and cleaning it out. And of course, more oil.

I'll check back in later and let you all know the progress. (I'm certainly getting a good arm workout!)

[IRON MAN]

Forgot to mention earlier, the BBQ technique to free up a seized block doesn't work. I like my blocks well-done, and after a couple hours gave up.

[1970Cuda]

LOL - I've seen heat work before, but not the BBQ method. Thanks for the laughter medicine.

------------- Update -----------

So I have partial (or qualified) good news on my saga of the removal of the frozen (seized) pistons in my original 383 engine. I've been using both heat and also the various lubricants (Kroil and Gibbs) for a while now and I also up-sized by sledge hammer I've been using (went from 3 lbs. to 8 lbs.). (I think that helped the most really.)

I was able to dislodge one piston from it's frozen berth and I'm working on the others. Two pistons look pretty ugly, but I'm having some success on other ones.

More to follow on this thread.

[7E-Bodies]

Kroil guy here...used a touch of it the other day, successfully of course, and was thinking about you. Glad you posted the update. Man, those pistons look like they had completely fused! With Kroil, I like to soak both the top and the bottom sides repeatedly over time. Love the stuff.

Kevin

[6Pack70]

I sprayed mine with Fluid Film top and botton of pistons. Then heated the piston skirts with a Map gas torch.... not super crazy hot. Then tappedthe pistons out with a hammer and brass bar.

[RUNCHARGER]

The pistons are done anyway, I pound through a steel bar right on the piston itself. I don't want to cushion the vibration at all.

[Brads70]

Forgot to mention earlier, the BBQ technique to free up a seized block doesn't work. I like my blocks well-done, and after a couple hours gave up.

Your AMC 390 burning up the track? 

[1970Cuda]

So I wanted to provide a quick update on my saga on saving my original engine from my '70 'Cuda restoration project. (See related thread under my assumed identity.)

1) I have found that soaking it w/Gibbs and the Kroil lubricants seems to be helping immensely. Not sure the heating is helping, but it's fun to do.

2) I've been cleaning out the bores really well with wire brushes (there's a lot of rust in them).

3) Removing the bolts is also a key, because of the tight clearances.

4) Upgrading my sledge hammer to 9 lbs. has made the job a whole lot easier.

I've been able to remove (thus far) three pistons. I've actually not been working on it too much over the winter. But now that springs here, I'm redoubling my efforts.

It's looking promising, but I'm not out of the woods yet. Hopefully the good news will continue.