What Gaskets/Seals can be easily replaced without dropping a 727 Torqueflite?

[70Challenger440]

I will be bringing in one of my cars that has been sitting for a while, in for some minor work. Like most of my cars, the transmission leaks on this one too. One day I plan to have the 727 TF completely redone. For now I just want to have them replace all easy to get at gaskets and seals that are quickly accessible while the car is on their lift. (that don't require dropping the transmission). The shop wants me to buy  and have them ready for when I bring the car.

Could you let me know which ones I need to buy besides the pan gasket. Thanks.

[Chryco Psycho]

There is a small seal around the shift shaft , An O ring on the dipstick tube , & the real seal for the driveshaft .
 When they sit for a long time often the converter drains down & the front seal can leak behind the converter but that can't be changed easily .
 I would go to a local trans supplier to buy .

[Bullitt-]

    I replaced those as well as the SPEEDOMETER PINION ADAPTER SEAL myself

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.php?prod=SSK

 Also found that there was a leek in the neutral safety switch body which I think is unusual. 

[Katfish]

Have them clean and dab RTV on the pivot pin.
Easy to do, more effort to replace the o-ring.

[70Challenger440]

Thanks for all your replies. 3 final questions regarding parts choices.

1) What is the best type and brand of pan gasket that is least likely to leak and what is the best sealer to use for it? 

2) Are quality aluminum pans less likely to leak than stock types?

3) For the rest of the gaskets & seals, is there a specific quality brand I should be looking for?

[7212Mopar]

Aluminum pan has a stiffer flange than the stamp steel pan. Both types have factory capacity or high capacity versions. Aluminum pan is also more expensive. My aluminum pan has a machine face but for whatever reason, it was not flat when I put a straight edge to it. I ended up have to sand it down with sand paper on a very flat surface face up and slide the pan over it until flat. I use Lubelocker gasket and they said do not add sealant to the surface and the gasket. My pan had been leak free.

[70Challenger440]

I am trying to buy the parts recommended in this thread. I called a couple of local transmission shops and when they heard my car's year, seemed they didn't want to be bothered. I have also had some poor prior experiences with Mopar online specialty places, where I waited months for simple parts that were listed in stock when they were really dropped shipped and delayed unexpectedly.  I would like to get this car going quickly for spring. I already just bought a B&M aluminum pan,  but the other parts are more confusing for me.


Are these 3 links ok or  am I missing any suggested parts? I would hate to bring my car in for it's other repairs and have wrong or missing parts for the trans.


Kit 1: Shift Shaft selector, Throttle Kickdown Seal, E-Ring and Dipstick O-ring
https://www.ebay.com/itm/276395348814

Kit 2: Cable To Speedo Gear Adapter Housing Seal Set
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143953092503

Pan Gasket: Lubelocker
https://www.ebay.com/itm/225781039903

= = = = = = = = = = = =

EDIT 6/26/2024:  Also needed was the drive-shaft seal and the neutral safety switch which was leaking through its pins. The shop did not use sealant on the gasket but put some special sealer they swear by,  between the outer FRONT edge of the gasket and trans pan where the 727 case is thin. The pan used was a B&M aluminum 50281.

(This post summarizes everything that was done and the 727TF no longer leaks. No need to drop the trans) 

[Racer57]

Is it worth putting a drain plug in a Tranny pan ?

[70Challenger440]

Is it worth putting a drain plug in a Tranny pan ?

Likely not for most people although I bet it makes changing the fluid and filter less sloppy or comes in handy if someone accidentally overfills their case slightly.   However, I  want an aluminum pan because someone on this this thread said they are less likely to leak since they have a stiffer gasket area. Others have said being it is the same material as the trans case it might help too with leaks when things heat up. I am so tired of leaks that I will try anything that has a chance to make things better and I want to do them all at once rather than trying to trace multiple possible leaks over time that could drip down onto one another. When searching,  I couldn't find any ready available name-brand aluminum pan without a drain plug nor at standard capacity.

[Bullitt-]

You overlooked the drive shaft seal


https://www.ebay.com/itm/143934011748?itmmeta=01HWJ8EA8EEB9QG8P430B04HRB&hash=item218322b964

[70Challenger440]

The B&M aluminium pan arrived. I never saw one before "uninstalled". I can't believe how thick the edge for the gasket is compared to the flimsy stamped steel ones. This has to make a big difference especially with that Lubelocker gasket I also bought as this trans has had a continual pan leak that reoccurs given enough time, especially near the bolts.

[70Challenger440]

As a follow-up, I replaced everything suggested on this thread. Additionally, The neutral safety switch which was not mentioned to replace ended up being a culprit too as it was leaking through its pins. I think switching to an aluminum pan helped a lot too.  Without having to drop the transmission, it has finally stopped leaking by simply attacking every possibility at once rather than tracing leaks. It was definitely worth doing everything at once even from a cost perspective since nothing was that expensive except for maybe the new aluminum pan.

[7E-Bodies]

I'm on my 10th E body, 8 of which were/are torque frights. Never ran a single TF that didn't leak like a screen door on a submarine. They  me off to no end. Dreading this next 727 and have a friendly bet with my transmission guy that it'll leak.

[Katfish]

Ain't that the truth, given up on mine.
Just keep buying kitty litter........
And I don't have a cat.