Dana-logic check

[1973Barracuda]

Ok, I am getting ready to spend the money to finish getting the rest of my parts for my geniii swap. I am looking to get a Dana 60 for my 73 Barracuda. I am, for now, going to use 245/45/17 tires, so an e body rear would work. But, I am thinking maybe to go b body, use spacers for now, and could go wider in future if I wanted. What am I missing? Any disadvantages to doing this?

Thanks

[RUNCHARGER]

I would go to the B-body width one for sure. It's just easier to make tires and wheels fit IMO.

[Topcat]

Have you talked with Dr. Diff?

He's your answer man.

Very knowledgeable on this type of stuff.

Relocated springs work well.

What's your HP & Torque estimated at?

[1973Barracuda]

Haven't talked to Dr Diff yet. I am currently in Afghanistan. So, I am plotting for my return!

Stock 6.1, TTI headers, Holley HP to control the EFI. On the fence about a A41. So, HP 425 ish, tq 420 ish I would say.

[Topcat]

My 2 cents:

At HP 425 ish, tq 420, I would save the trouble of the offset and just go 275.15.60's on 15 x 8 rims.

But that's just my thinking what I've read from before.

[1973Barracuda]

Already have the 17 inch rims. I was thinking spending the extra money on spacers, will save me far more if I ever want to go larger than the e body rear would support. I guess I am looking for any real disadvantages to doing this.

[RUNCHARGER]

I'm not a big fan of wheel spacers although they are certainly much better than they used to be and you're "only" at 425HP. With an E-body rear, to max out tire width you would be able to still move the springs in and then run a negative offset wheel, sounds like a PITA to me. The only downside with the B-body rear width is adapting the E-body rear sway bar to it and that has been covered on this site and is not a big deal.
Are you running a manual transmission? If an automatic you could just leave the 8 3/4 in there for now.

[1973Barracuda]

Running an automatic. Have a 518, but am looking at a a41.

Either way I am spending. I have an open 3.55 that has to go. So, it is either spend, day 1400 on a new 8 3/4, or spend a bit more and never have to worry about HP or torque.

Am I off base with this?

[1 Wild R/T]

My opinion FWIW if your not going manual and running slicks you don't need a Dana... I've beaten of E bodies since the 70's & know an awful lot of other guys who've done the same... Never broken an 8.75... I have a buddy running a 4 spd with a serious 440 (RBRE) in front of it with street tires he's dumped the clutch many times... Not a single issue with the 8.75....

There are plenty of Mopar's running in the 10's & even a few in the 9's with stock 8.75 axles... 

Chevy guys dream of having an axle as tough as the 8.75.... Ford guys with their famous 9"? well unless it's got the right parts those go boom when subjected to the abuse an 8.75 will take....

Nice things about the 8.75..  Quick easy gear changes, you can run a 3.91 S/G around town then when you want to do a road trip throw in a set of 2.76 in less than an hour....   

Also the 8.75 is considerably lighter than a Dana...

Hey, if the visual of a Dana makes you happy great get a Dana but with what your building you don't need a Dana....

And if your spending $1400 for an 8.75 S/G you need to do more research....  Better yet learn to set up a gear set yourself... New S/G gears & all the small parts can be had for about $800....

[RUNCHARGER]

Not off base at all. I would not spend any money making an 8 3/4 "right" unless you were restoring the car to factory original.

[1973Barracuda]

The 1400 is assembled and ready to go. The reason I would do that is my current job rotates me back to the states for 30 days at a time. So it is a balance of time when I rotate. I have never done a rebuild on a rear end, so I am uncertain how long it would take out of my 30 day break.