340 heat riser valve...how to Jerry rig?

[kawahonda]

After installing my TTI exhaust, my heat riser valve has gotten noisy. I'm not even sure if it's complete...looks as though there should be a spring on the outside. It also leaks.

I'd like to Jerry rig it so that it remains open and stops rattling. Bailing wire?

Which direction is open?

[Rich G.]

I'd cut it out and put a couple of plugs in the ends.

[kawahonda]

I'd like to go temporary if possible. My though is to rotate it clockwise (is this open??) and spread a glob of muffler putty....

[kawahonda]

Can anyone tell me which way the shaft spins for the valve to be open?

Clockwise?

[Dakota]

Facing the exhaust manifold, it's clockwise to open. 

[kawahonda]

Much thanks!

My plan is to scuff the area at the base and run a nice bead of extreme heat by JBweld while making sure that it's fully clockwise. Give it a full 24 hour to cure.

[kawahonda]

One thing I was thinking I could do is do a nice spot weld connecting the post to the manifold. Then spreading the JB Weld Goop. This would help reinforce it.

But, would my wire feed (copper wire) work on cast iron manifolds? I do have flux core wire as well.

[73_Cuda_4_Me]

For a 'quick' fix, I'd cut a strip of pop can, bend an "L", and clamp it to the shaft with small hose screw clamp... drill a hole in the strip big enough for the spring post, and slip it over the spring post then clamp it to the shaft...

If the shaft turns freely, you could probably just hook a short spring to the hose clamp from the spring post without a strip...

You will NOT get a good tack weld on the cast iron with wire welder...

Sheesh... my shade tree mechanic side just showed up!!!

(...and this is all based on the title of the thread... LOL)   

[kawahonda]

It turns pretty freely....

I'm curious how well just smearing a nice bead of JB weld extreme heat around the shaft post, and giving it ample time to cure, would work...

That stuff is rated up to 2400F.

[kawahonda]

I like your spring Idea though. Still needs JB weld around the seal.

[kawahonda]

Alright, she's Jerry rigged, and I'm proud of it. I used a spring from a local hardware store (stiffer than the one pictured). I had to shortern and modify it. Test fitted the spring on the shaft and the post and it was applying real good pressure...so good that you couldnt turn it anymore.

I wire brushed the area. Then applied JB extreme heat without the spring in place (it was on the end of the shafts). Slid the spring into place. Applied more heat extreme. Waited 2 hours, then applied another coat, coating the spring fully.. I have a good feeling this trick will work...at least for a couple years.

[kawahonda]

Started it up for a few minutes today. Held strong. No leaks or noise.

Tomorrow will be the full test....how will it hold up coming to normal temps!

So far, so good.

[RUNCHARGER]

The exhaust flow blows the valve straight so that will help. Hopefully the epoxy won't separate but it will probably hold fine. If not, another application doesn't cost much.