Main Menu

First ever welding project(rat rod wagon)

Started by Burdar, April 07, 2020, 11:38:35 AM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Burdar

I've never welded anything before.  When ever I need something welded I have to ask for help.  I thought it was time I learned how to do some small jobs myself.  I didn't want to spend money on an expensive welder if it was something I wouldn't be able to pick up so, I borrowed a friends Chicago Electric flux core mig welder.  He got it as a gift one year but hadn't really used it himself.  That wasn't a good experience.  I got so frustrated that I gave it back and didn't think about welding again for a year.  Well, I got the itch to learn again.  I wanted a little nicer welder to practice with but I still didn't want to spend a lot of money.   I ended up buying a Titanium flux 125.  It has a lot more adjustability then the Chicago Electric.  So far I'm pleased with it.  You obviously get what you pay for but I think this welder will serve me well...at least to get my feet wet with. 

I'm nervous about posting pics of my welds but bear in mind that this is the very first time I'm trying this.  The first pic is what the welds with the Chicago Electric welder look like.  The second pic is the Titanium.  Big difference IMO.





Ok, now that that's out of the way, on to my first welding project.  I received a brand new Radio Flyer wagon for Christmas 1979.  After years of abuse from three kids, the wagon was just sitting in mom and dad's attic.  I decided to try and make something cool with it.  This is the only picture I have of it.  Looks like I'm enjoying a sucker at 11 months old.  Not the safest thing by today's standards but I guess I survived.


I found some really cool pictures online that I'm basing this off of.  Obviously I want to keep it simple since this is my first project.  I'm using the tub, 2 wheels and the handle from the original wagon.  The rest isn't being used. The frame is being made from 1.5" square tubing.(.125" wall thickness) When I bought my house, there were two 8' sections of tubing in the shed so they are getting used for this project.  I started by cutting out pieces for the front axle.  It has a 1.5" rise.  I should have built it with a 3" rise but more on that later.


Then the rear axle.  I didn't know where I needed to position the rear wheels so I made the mounting point pretty tall.  This allowed me to play with the ride height and get it exactly how I wanted it.




Next it was time to make the frame rails.  These also have a 1.5" offset.  While welding these together I learned a lot about which welds to make first and the importance of keeping everything straight.




Then it was time to weld the front axle to the frame rails.


Here is the finished frame.  The front spindles are old(very pitted) E-body leaf spring hangers.


I welded bolts to the leaf spring hangers for the front wheels and found the right stance I wanted for the rear and drilled the holes .  I also made some headers and mounted them to the frame.  The header tubes are thinner material then their mounting plate.  Those welds really look terrible so I won't be showing any closeups of those.  I should have experimented with welding thinner materials to thicker ones before hand but... It's a good thing they will be hidden under the tub.


Next on the list was the steering.  The steering/handle mount pivots around a 5/8" diameter spacer.(the same type of steel spacer used on our old Mopar alternators)  The spacer is just slightly taller then the 1.5" tube so the mounting bolt can be fully tightened. I put a plastic washer between the pivot and the front axle so there wouldn't be metal to metal contact there.  I ordered 1/4" heim joints for the tie rods and made the center links.(should have made them a little longer)


I had some room between the steering and the tub so I took the carb off of my 68 Dart's 318 and made a mounting plate for that.  It really looks good there I think.  This is basically where I am right now.  I need to work on the handle and finish a few small things on the front end.  Then I can take it apart and paint the frame.(not sure what color to go with yet)


Speaking of the handle.  I've got an old Hurst T handle that I'm going to use.  The problem is that it's a universal part that takes adapters to fit up to a shifter.  I don't have any of the adapters it would have originally come with.  The threads in the handle look like a flat acme thread.  If anyone would happen to have one of those adapters please let me know.  The only thing I can think of is to epoxy a bolt into the handle and weld a nut onto the original wagon handle.  Finding an adapter would make it a lot easier.  The hole in the handle is quite large.  Inside the threads measures 11/16".

anlauto

I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

JS29



gzig5

Very cool project. 
I think the threads in your shifter handle are standard 60 degree, the hole was just made on the large side.  I just checked the Hurst T handle I have and it is a standard 3/8-16 thread.  I would bet yours is a standard NC or NF thread pitch between 5/16 - 7/16" diameter.  Good luck.

Rich G.

You learn by doing it. Great looking project. You can always grind the welds off and do them over if you don't like them. Good use of old parts!

Cudajason

That's cool!

Man if HF were closer, I would be running out to get me one of those welders!

Jason
1974 Cuda. 360 / A500 OD.  Yes its pink, no its not my wife's car!  Yes I drive it.


Mr Lee

Dude. Awesome. Love it.  I think you're well on your way to becoming a good fabricator and already have a cool project going.  This is just the beginning.
I'm also looking to buy my first welder soon.  A MIG.  Eventually would like to learn to TIG weld also so it's cool to see someone else getting their feet wet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Remember, wherever you go, there you are.


Burdar

QuoteI think the threads in your shifter handle are standard 60 degree, the hole was just made on the large side.  I just checked the Hurst T handle I have and it is a standard 3/8-16 thread.  I would bet yours is a standard NC or NF thread pitch between 5/16 - 7/16" diameter.

Actually a 5/8 bolt is loose in the hole.  A 3/4" bolt almost starts but it's slightly too big.  I could probably drill it a little bigger and tap it for a 3/4" bolt.(if I can find someone with a 3/4" bottoming tap)

gzig5

Quote from: Burdar on April 08, 2020, 07:04:36 AM
QuoteI think the threads in your shifter handle are standard 60 degree, the hole was just made on the large side.  I just checked the Hurst T handle I have and it is a standard 3/8-16 thread.  I would bet yours is a standard NC or NF thread pitch between 5/16 - 7/16" diameter.

Actually a 5/8 bolt is loose in the hole.  A 3/4" bolt almost starts but it's slightly too big.  I could probably drill it a little bigger and tap it for a 3/4" bolt.(if I can find someone with a 3/4" bottoming tap)

That's interesting.  Maybe someone modded it.  If you want to send it to me, I could turn a bushing up in the lathe to take a smaller size.  I'll look in my taps for a bottom 11/16 or 3/4.  I might have a duplicate I can trim.    I can make a custom tap of any size to cut aluminum but would need the bolt going into the hole to work from.  Would only cost you shipping.

Burdar

I need to talk to my father-in-law and see if he has a tap.  He used to be a machinist at Oral-B.  I'm not sure if he has anything that big though.  If not, I might take you up on that offer.  Thanks!

jimynick

Quote from: gzig5 on April 08, 2020, 12:26:59 PM
Quote from: Burdar on April 08, 2020, 07:04:36 AM
QuoteI think the threads in your shifter handle are standard 60 degree, the hole was just made on the large side.  I just checked the Hurst T handle I have and it is a standard 3/8-16 thread.  I would bet yours is a standard NC or NF thread pitch between 5/16 - 7/16" diameter.

Actually a 5/8 bolt is loose in the hole.  A 3/4" bolt almost starts but it's slightly too big.  I could probably drill it a little bigger and tap it for a 3/4" bolt.(if I can find someone with a 3/4" bottoming tap)

That's interesting.  Maybe someone modded it.  If you want to send it to me, I could turn a bushing up in the lathe to take a smaller size.  I'll look in my taps for a bottom 11/16 or 3/4.  I might have a duplicate I can trim.    I can make a custom tap of any size to cut aluminum but would need the bolt going into the hole to work from.  Would only cost you shipping.

That's a handsome offer, kindly proposed to help out a fellow member! Please allow me to thank you for your generosity.  :cheers:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"


nsmall

Very nice.  I would love to see a dodge dart update.   :wave:

Chryco Psycho


Burdar

Just a quick update on the Hurst handle.  A 3/4" tap easily cut threads into the hole without having to drill it out to size first.  I cut a piece of 3/4" all-thread and screwed it into the handle.  I'll weld a nut onto the existing wagon handle so I can screw in the Hurst grip.

YellowThumper

That is so cool.
Great project to get your feet wet with welding.
Life is to be viewed thru the windshield. Not rear view mirror.
You are the only one in charge of your destiny.

Mike.