Frame Stiffening

[Chryco Psycho]

Yup
get a rule book
My experience was only a roll bar until 10.0 , 9.99 is where the Cage was required along with 3 layer firesuit & a lot of other requirements .

[BillR1212]

Thanks for everything guys. I think I may just tear out seats and carpet. Maybe have the vinyl redone while I have it out. Do the frame stiffening, and put a roll cage in while I'm at it. a few more weeks won't kill me. I appreciate the advice. I'd be absolutely thrilled if this thing lifts the front tires, and maybe even a bit frightened. But it is a torque monster, so if it grips who knows.

Last question for a while. Caltrec bars seem to hook up without needing a floater? Are they equivalent to ladder bars?

Thank you

[Chryco Psycho]

Not even close , I installed Caltracs on a Duster , it was running 1.72 60' before & after it was running an amazing 1.72 60' time 

[BillR1212]

One last question - I've asked this before and I believe the answer was an electric pusher pump. I was having fuel delivery issues in the 1/4 mile. I changed out my 5/16th line to 3/8ths. Kept the tank pretty much full yesterday on a few test pulls and still ran dry shortly before the 8th mile. I was hoping the larger line would help. I believe I have a carter mechanical pump installed that I thought was pretty good size. I'd have to pull receipts to see what it is, but was told it was all I'd need. Should I drop the tank and check the sock in the sending unit for clogs? Or is 3/8ths and mechanical pump just not up to the job?

[RUNCHARGER]

Check the sock for sure. A HP mechanical pump should keep up but I do like a pusher electric as well. Check for kinks in the line and the filter as well of course.

[Chryco Psycho]

Many of th High volume mechanical pumps are restricted internally , I usually have to drill out the internal ports as they can be less than 1/4" behind the fittings etc , but a pusher pump is always a good idea

[Skid Row]

If your line was 5/16 originally,(Like mine) Is the sending unit 5/16 or 3/8 now?

[BillR1212]

I bought a new sending unit when I swapped over to the 3/8 line. However the one that was 3/8 fitting already so we decided to save the hassle of dropping the tank to swap it out with the new one.

I've decided to just add a 5 gallon fuel cell to the trunk. Since I'm buying an electric pump anyways it's not that much more to just get a tank. Thinking of T'ing it into the main line with a shut off valve or solenoid switch to change over to it. That should fix any fuel delivery problems, and allow me to run Race gas so I can bump up the timing when at the track.

I ordered a frame sub connecter kit from Jegs. I'm going to look into mopar SS springs as well.

Saturday was a cold day - 50 degrees. My best run was tire pressure at 20 PSI in my nitto drag radials. Don't have the time slip in front of me but I believe it was 1.779 60ft - 7.69 1/8th at 96.2 MPH. QA1 shocks were not adjusted at all and in street driving settings. I mainly just wanted to see if the fuel would keep up, so I didn't do a lot of hard launches. I rolled into the throttle until about 4K then dropped the hammer for the rest of first and through the gears. 2nd gear hits my rev limiter right before the 8th mile. I could probably bump that up to 6K, think I have it set at 5700 right now.

Can't wait to see how it will improve with some frame stiffening/adjusting shocks (single up front/Double out back)/and M & H Racemaster slicks with front runners. Down the road maybe some springs/ladder bars.

[BillR1212]

Also - per the picture I attached from Saturday. My victor intake does not fit my hood, so I was forced to buy a junker on CL and cut it up. I'd like to get my original hood back on. I've seen Chyco recommend the holly dominator previously. Just wanted to see if that was still the going thought. I have Eddy performer RPM heads that are CNCed. Currently the Victor is port matched to them and since I already had to chop the hood I put a spacer in which netted me 20 HP. Let me know thoughts. I've seen M1 get some mentions as well, but just want to make sure they will port match to my RPM heads.

Thank you,
Bill

*edit* for the purists - the car was a work bench in a backyard prior to me getting it and is almost completely new under the hood. Original hood is still mint. The current hood was rusting away in the weeds on a Craigslist ad. So yes I know it's an ugly baby. but I didn't want to invest in a Carbon fiber hood, and really just wanted to drive it after a long year of working on it. Now it's time to get it back to original so it can be more of a sleeper.

[Chryco Psycho]

The Holley Street Dom is still one of the best intakes ever made & seriously works , I do extensive port work under the carb to blend the roof of the ports up into the plenum & port match at the heads , the big advantage is it sits very low , the M1 is also a great intake but sits much higher so need a hood scoop or raised hood like the AAR .
I guess my  is this , Super stock springs work great But you can get ladderbars for the same $$ , the SS springs need the pinion snubber which is brutal on the street , the ladderbars are almost unnoticable on the street & will hook harder so if it was my $$ I would just add the ladderbars & floaters & be done !