Shaker base plate and Holley carburetor

[WCC]

I have been researching a shaker hood on an aftermarket carburetor.
I have a Holley 80531 carburetor with an Edelbrock manifold. Is there a base plate that would fit or does this need a modification? I do not have any metal fabrication skills so first prize would be to purchase one that fits.
I really like the ones from www.tommythechryco.ca but not sure if the two top screws would hit the plate - perhaps a spacer is an option to lift the base plate a bit but this may raise the bubble too high?

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I had to fab one for mine. And I need to re-fab because I'm not 100% liking how it sits. Its a tad to high and I need bigger "bumps" front and back. Its playing havoc on my bubble. You would think after all these years with so many guys using Holley (or Holley style) carbs somone would make them.    now I did cheat  "A LITTLE" I found an ait cleaner base to get the air horn ring off of.

[WCC]

Thanks for the pics. Do you know how much clearance is needed? Would it be possible to use a spacer?

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I really need to drop the base (part where the air filter sits) about another 3/16 of an inch. But it not that easy as it changes the dimples and is getting very close to the fuel lines. Mines a DP but the same would apply in the front for a SP. I really dont know where you would put a spacer

[WCC]

My understanding is that the base plate is hitting the fuel level adjusting nuts on top, so depending on the clearance needed perhaps one can add a spacer underneath the base plate to lift the plate so it clears. However, this will lift the bubble as well so may not work.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

NO SPACER... it's all in fabbing of the baseplate

[WCC]

NO SPACER... it's all in fabbing of the baseplate

Yeah, looks like it. You did a great job on yours, looks awesome!

I was thinking that getting an air filter base and replacing the one in the base plate with it maybe the easiest.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

That looks like a good starting point, but to far a drop will interfere w fuel lines so be carefull you dont want to go to far the the other direction

[usraptor]

I had the same issue with my Holley Dominator Intake and QuickFuel dual feed carb.  As recommended by Mopar Dave, I ordered a Holley drop air cleaner base off ebay and then a fiberglass shaker base plate from Year One.  I then cut a hole out of the center of the fiberglass base plate and pop riveted the Holley steel drop base plate to it.  Measure three times before you cut.  I also used some gasket cement between the baseplate and metal drop base where they were riveted together.  With my setup the Shaker was then approx 1/2" to low so I ordered a 1/2" carb spacer and it is now the correct height.  I didn't have any interference problems with the gas lines or float adjustment screws on the top of the carb.  Here's some pics of what mine looked like when all done.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

Very nice! Yours sits way better than mine does. My question is when did that become available? I don't recall seeing anything like that back when I fabbed mine up maybe 8 years ago. I can see going your route for sure! 

Also with the bigger drop what air filter are you using??

I've got a carb spacer been hangin on a nail in the garage forever, I could put it to use!

[BIGSHCLUNK]

Another question...... does it hold allot of heat?  What I'm running sure does

[WCC]

I had the same issue with my Holley Dominator Intake and QuickFuel dual feed carb.  As recommended by Mopar Dave, I ordered a Holley drop air cleaner base off ebay and then a fiberglass shaker base plate from Year One.  I then cut a hole out of the center of the fiberglass base plate and pop riveted the Holley steel drop base plate to it.  Measure three times before you cut.  I also used some gasket cement between the baseplate and metal drop base where they were riveted together.  With my setup the Shaker was then approx 1/2" to low so I ordered a 1/2" carb spacer and it is now the correct height.  I didn't have any interference problems with the gas lines or float adjustment screws on the top of the carb.  Here's some pics of what mine looked like when all done.

Awesome, thanks for posting. That's what I was thinking, but with a metal base.

When you cut the filter base plate, did you just cut the upswinged end off i.e. leaving the rim full around it in order to drill the rivert holes into? I think this is a better option than cutting the rim off as well and having to weld the filter base to the shaker adaptor ring. I also think the carb spacer lifts it just enough not to interfere with the fuel lines etc. I also need to make sure it lifts above the distributor plugs as mine is quite high.

Where did you get the carb spacer? From Shakerhood?

Do you have some pics under the hood?

[WCC]

Did some measurements and a mock up cardboard plate and this looks like it will work well - looks like I will need a 1/4 or 1/2 carb spacer as well.

Only issue I can see is that the wiper motor is in the way of the rear right side of the plate. I will need to get a 3 speed which is flat to the firewall. Apart from the motor I'm assuming the linkages need to be different and I will also need a 3speed switch?

[usraptor]

Very nice! Yours sits way better than mine does. My question is when did that become available? I don't recall seeing anything like that back when I fabbed mine up maybe 8 years ago. I can see going your route for sure! 

Also with the bigger drop what air filter are you using??

I've got a carb spacer been hangin on a nail in the garage forever, I could put it to use!

I couldn't tell you when this came available.  I never had a reason to check before and bought it now on Mopar Dave's recommendation.
Just the stock type 14" round air cleaner works fine.

I had the same issue with my Holley Dominator Intake and QuickFuel dual feed carb.  As recommended by Mopar Dave, I ordered a Holley drop air cleaner base off ebay and then a fiberglass shaker base plate from Year One.  I then cut a hole out of the center of the fiberglass base plate and pop riveted the Holley steel drop base plate to it.  Measure three times before you cut.  I also used some gasket cement between the baseplate and metal drop base where they were riveted together.  With my setup the Shaker was then approx 1/2" to low so I ordered a 1/2" carb spacer and it is now the correct height.  I didn't have any interference problems with the gas lines or float adjustment screws on the top of the carb.  Here's some pics of what mine looked like when all done.

Awesome, thanks for posting. That's what I was thinking, but with a metal base.

When you cut the filter base plate, did you just cut the upswinged end off i.e. leaving the rim full around it in order to drill the rivert holes into? I think this is a better option than cutting the rim off as well and having to weld the filter base to the shaker adaptor ring. I also think the carb spacer lifts it just enough not to interfere with the fuel lines etc. I also need to make sure it lifts above the distributor plugs as mine is quite high.

Where did you get the carb spacer? From Shakerhood?

Do you have some pics under the hood?

I used the fiberglass base because my Shaker set up is original to the car and I didn't want to cut up an original and very valuable piece. Otherwise a metal base would work just as good if not better. Not sure what you mean by the "upswinged end"? I layed the Holley drop base onto the fiberglass shaker base and drew a line around it.  I then measure in from that line the width of the Holley base and then cut out the center of the fiberglass base to the inside line.  That gave me enough of a lip on the fiberglass base to pop rivet the Holley drop base to as well as firmly support the entire weight of assembly when it's installed.  My set up did not interfere with the fuel lines or distributor even before I added the carb spacer.  I ordered the spacer from Jegs.  I don't have any pics under the hood, but when I go out to work on it today I'll take some and post tonight.

Another question...... does it hold allot of heat?  What I'm running sure does

I'm sorry but I can't really answer that.  I've only driven the car a long distance once and to be honest I didn't check that.  It was a warm day, mid 80's, and all surface streets and the temp gauge read normal the whole time.  When we popped the hood it didn't seem excessive hot.  I had to run a different linkage set up because of the intake and carb to start with.  It fits fine with the modified base and I don't have any interference problems.  I don't remember where I  bought it because it was so long ago but I do have some pics somewhere.  I'll see if I can find them and then I'll post some pics.

[usraptor]

Here's a pic of my linkage set up.