As mentioned in the Winter Projects post, I am installing a hydro boost system on my Cuda over the winter. I have never been happy with the standard brake on my car, so hoping this will help.
Like everything with me this will take a while.
My plan is to use a junkyard hydro boost unit, add in an adjustable proportioning valve and line lock (just for the hell of it). I have priced out the prepackaged kits and just can not justify the cost.
While I am at it, I will replace all of the brake lines as they are original to the car.
I will add pics etc as I make process.
Anyone that has done this before please feel to add comments.
So far I have a a bunch of disassembly done and my first issue!
I was planning to use my existing master cylinder, which is a new style mopar unit that I have run for a decade. However the MC does not fit the hydro boost unit I have. My understanding is that the hydro boost units are all same. So looks like I am buying a New MC. Doing some research to find the right one.
The other thing I noticed is the difference in the reenforcement plates for standard brakes (black) and power brakes. The power brake plate (pink) positions the MC higher on the firewall.
I think I am going with that as my starting point, and will add the power brake linkage back under the dash (I have it all).
I think the most challenging part will be bending all the hard lines to mate up to the new proportioning valve, but I think I can get there.
I started this years ago but never finished it. I too used a hyroboost unit off a Astro van , and they are not " plentiful" as most were automatics. Actually I got it for the 86 regal I had at the time, its been that long now... 12-15 years... :-[
I did pull it all out again to adapt it to the Challenger but never went any further. I'll get back to it someday. M/C is 1.250" diameter
I think I got the M/C from Cass and had to slot it some to mount to the hydo boost unit.
I'm assuming a reconditioned hydro boost unit from Rock Auto or similar would be just fine, correct? They don't seem to be to pricey when I've previously looked. I know it still takes all the adapters, gadgets, etc. for a complete set-up. Just talking about the actual unit.
Thanks, Wes
http://www.hydratechbraking.com/Mopar_E_Body.html
Neat. What are you using for a pump and lines?
Are you going to run a cooler?
Quote from: MoparLeo on December 31, 2021, 04:50:40 PM
http://www.hydratechbraking.com/Mopar_E_Body.html
This may be the route I go after figuring out the pump side.
Quote from: MoparLeo on December 31, 2021, 04:50:40 PM
http://www.hydratechbraking.com/Mopar_E_Body.html
$700 USD...yeah no thanks. I build a custom on cheaper.
Quote from: moparcar on December 31, 2021, 03:57:18 PM
I'm assuming a reconditioned hydro boost unit from Rock Auto or similar would be just fine, correct? They don't seem to be to pricey when I've previously looked. I know it still takes all the adapters, gadgets, etc. for a complete set-up. Just talking about the actual unit.
Thanks, Wes
I don't see why that would not work.
The part that concerns me the most is the connection at the brake pedal. Seem like there is not a lot of info on that, but I have a few ideas.
Quote from: RCman on December 31, 2021, 06:16:55 PM
Neat. What are you using for a pump and lines?
Are you going to run a cooler?
Quote from: MoparLeo on December 31, 2021, 04:50:40 PM
http://www.hydratechbraking.com/Mopar_E_Body.html
This may be the route I go after figuring out the pump side.
I have power steering now, may change the pump to one with two returns, may just use a T in the return line.
I will make the lines using AN hose and fittings.
Quote from: Brads70 on December 31, 2021, 09:53:21 AM
I started this years ago but never finished it. I too used a hyroboost unit off a Astro van , and they are not " plentiful" as most were automatics. Actually I got it for the 86 regal I had at the time, its been that long now... 12-15 years... :-[
I did pull it all out again to adapt it to the Challenger but never went any further. I'll get back to it someday. M/C is 1.250" diameter
I think I got the M/C from Cass and had to slot it some to mount to the hydo boost unit.
Thanks
@Brads70 (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/brads70_12) i thought about just filing the holes out, but nit sure it was a good idea. Maybe I will give it a shot, nothing to lose at this point.
I see you were planning on a thick block to space out the hydro boost unit. I assume that is to mate the HB pushrod? Have you taken any measurement for that?
Quote from: Cudajason on December 31, 2021, 06:48:02 PM
Quote from: Brads70 on December 31, 2021, 09:53:21 AM
I started this years ago but never finished it. I too used a hyroboost unit off a Astro van , and they are not " plentiful" as most were automatics. Actually I got it for the 86 regal I had at the time, its been that long now... 12-15 years... :-[
I did pull it all out again to adapt it to the Challenger but never went any further. I'll get back to it someday. M/C is 1.250" diameter
I think I got the M/C from Cass and had to slot it some to mount to the hydo boost unit.
Thanks @Brads70 (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/brads70_12) i thought about just filing the holes out, but nit sure it was a good idea. Maybe I will give it a shot, nothing to lose at this point.
I see you were planning on a thick block to space out the hydro boost unit. I assume that is to mate the HB pushrod? Have you taken any measurement for that?
Ya I can't remember right at the moment, it was quite some time ago I started on it. I did obtain the parts from the pedal to what would be a stock booster. Its not the same as the manual brake set up. Its " somewhere in my garage " I'll take a picture if I can find it....
Looks like the first picture in this post....
https://forum.e-bodies.org/cuda-and-challenger-general-discussion-roseville-moparts/2/power-brake-linkage/12281/
Brewers has them if you need one?
http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.php?cat=279
I posted the link on hydroboost kits because it has some of the dimensions, measurements listed.
Click through the link. More info there.
Quote
I have power steering now, may change the pump to one with two returns, may just use a T in the return line.
I will make the lines using AN hose and fittings.
Yeah, I do as well but I am wondering is the stock pump has enough output (both flow and pressure) to handle the demands.
Then as you mentioned lack of return plus maybe the need for a cooler and it starts to look like a new pump and maybe remote reservoir might be easier.
A stock pump will work fine. I had one on my 408 stroker and it worked perfectly. The hydroboost system puts very little demand on the power steering pump. I doubt you'll need a cooler either unless you are doing some serious road racing, and even then the heat load necessitating that is mostly from the steering side.
I put up some video's on youtube about my install.
Mopar AL master to hydroboost:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COYGdaZdTHA
FYI: If you make your own kit, then you need to also make a tool to tighten the goofy sized mounting nut on the hydro unit itself. Advantage with a kit is the kit will have the hydro unit already bolted onto the adapter plate so you dont need the tool.
The kit I used mounts it where the power booster goes. So it uses the power brake linkage to the pedal. End result is hydo unit it will be higher up and also pushed forward vs when mounted in the manual master location. Keep this in mind when watching my videos.
If you mount it where the manual master bolts on, then it connects direct to the pedal. I believe this is how the Hydratech kit is by looking at their pictures of their firewall adapter bracket.
Quote from: MoparLeo on January 01, 2022, 12:37:45 AM
I posted the link on hydroboost kits because it has some of the dimensions, measurements listed.
Click through the link. More info there.
Ok thanks man, I will have look.
Quote from: Brads70 on December 31, 2021, 07:23:12 PM
Quote from: Cudajason on December 31, 2021, 06:48:02 PM
Quote from: Brads70 on December 31, 2021, 09:53:21 AM
I started this years ago but never finished it. I too used a hyroboost unit off a Astro van , and they are not " plentiful" as most were automatics. Actually I got it for the 86 regal I had at the time, its been that long now... 12-15 years... :-[
I did pull it all out again to adapt it to the Challenger but never went any further. I'll get back to it someday. M/C is 1.250" diameter
I think I got the M/C from Cass and had to slot it some to mount to the hydo boost unit.
Thanks @Brads70 (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/brads70_12) i thought about just filing the holes out, but nit sure it was a good idea. Maybe I will give it a shot, nothing to lose at this point.
I see you were planning on a thick block to space out the hydro boost unit. I assume that is to mate the HB pushrod? Have you taken any measurement for that?
Ya I can't remember right at the moment, it was quite some time ago I started on it. I did obtain the parts from the pedal to what would be a stock booster. Its not the same as the manual brake set up. Its " somewhere in my garage " I'll take a picture if I can find it....
Looks like the first picture in this post....
https://forum.e-bodies.org/cuda-and-challenger-general-discussion-roseville-moparts/2/power-brake-linkage/12281/
Brewers has them if you need one?
http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.php?cat=279
Thanks man, that is the linkage I have.
Jason
Quote from: greentween on January 01, 2022, 11:27:34 AM
I put up some video's on youtube about my install.
Mopar AL master to hydroboost:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COYGdaZdTHA
FYI: If you make your own kit, then you need to also make a tool to tighten the goofy sized mounting nut on the hydro unit itself. Advantage with a kit is the kit will have the hydro unit already bolted onto the adapter plate so you dont need the tool.
The kit I used mounts it where the power booster goes. So it uses the power brake linkage to the pedal. End result is hydo unit it will be higher up and also pushed forward vs when mounted in the manual master location. Keep this in mind when watching my videos.
If you mount it where the manual master bolts on, then it connects direct to the pedal. I believe this is how the Hydratech kit is by looking at their pictures of their firewall adapter bracket.
Thanks man, I will have a watch.
I found a socket for the hydroboost nut...waiting on it to arrive to pull it apart. Not cheap, but what are you going to do!
My plan is to sue the power linkage. So we will see how that goes.
Got some more time this week.
Tacked up the mount and bolted it up, looks like my plan will work.
The MC looks like it will be level, maybe pointing a little down.
Next weld up the mount solid. Thread the pushrod and bolt it all together for final mock up. Pill it apart for paint.
Then I have to order the MC and run all the lines.
Welp...that did not go as planed.
Time grind grind grind and then reweld.
The welds look cold Jason, try turning up the power first and watch closely. You should be able to see the weld puddle wash up and into the two components and then it's wire speed and technique. A couple of stout whiskys might calm the hands? :cheers:
Quote from: jimynick on March 03, 2022, 08:13:35 PM
The welds look cold Jason, try turning up the power first and watch closely. You should be able to see the weld puddle wash up and into the two components and then it's wire speed and technique. A couple of stout whiskys might calm the hands? :cheers:
Thanks
@jimynick (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/jimynick_55)
I thought I had the power too hjigh...I blew through the metal in one spot. I wonder if it was just too cold out at the time.
I will try again!
Kinda looks like too much voltage, not enough wire feed. the wire is 'popping' and rapidly melting away faster than the wire feed can push new wire to create a nice weld puddle. either turn wire feed up, but if that's too hot and burns through, then try turning the voltage down.
Hard to tell for sure from just a picture, but that's where I would start. --also make sure everything is super clean and well grounded. a poor electrical circuit from dirt, oils, paint, or poorly grounded can also result in popping and sputtering like that.
Well got the mount fabbed and installed the unit.
I have it attached to the brake pedal. I will get some pics of that latter, when I blow it apart.
I am using the factory power brake linkage.
I got a bunch of parts in and have been fabbing up the hoses. I am using PTFE hoses due to the pressure. Not thrilled with the PTFE, its a little stiff, but it will work. Of course I did not get the tight fittings, so more parts on order
Still a lot of work to do, but progress is progress!
Comin' along Jas, comin' along! :bigthumb:
Are those fittings and hose rated for 2-3000 psi?
Quote from: Brads70 on March 19, 2022, 11:28:24 AM
Are those fittings and hose rated for 2-3000 psi?
Yes sir! Thats why I am using them as opposed to regular AN hose and hose ends.
Got some of my favorite tools out today and bent up some brake lines from the MC the adjustable proportioning valve. I also made a template to mount the adj valve. I will fab that after the i get the hoses etc mocked up.
Another interesting cudajas thread to follow. :bigthumb:
Is the spacer you added just to make up for the missing vacuum booster?
Looking really good. Do you have a list of the main components you are using such as the pump, MC, etc?? I'm hoping to start a conversion this summer and want to start looking for the HW.
That special socket you mentioned is the long thing with the square drive in post #17?
Really looking forward to your review on the performance of this project Jason. I've never considered the Challenger a poor stopper after I restricted the rears so your review will likely influence whether I do the same thing. :dunno:
Glacial progress...just crazy at work and have not had much time to do anything other the dream and order parts.
Got the last AN like made up today. You can see in the pic how they will run. I will add some hose spacers.
Next i need to take it all apart the clean everything up for paint. Also need to fab the mount for the prop valve and bend the bend the hard lines etc etc.
Nice work Jason, it's really coming together and I'll bet you'll be thrilled with the way it works! :cheers:
Back at it again today.
Blew it all apart.
Got the prop valve bracket fabbed up. I am happy with it, but not 100% on where the valve sits. I am not sure I have clearance for the rear brake port on the bottom. Ill fab that line ip this week and see. The rubber boot for the brake light is also tight.
Now its time to warm up. Man I need and insulated garage.
Great day today out in the garage. Finished up the major fab work on the hydrobost install with bending the pass side brake line.
Now I need to get all the parts painted and ready for the final install. Then we will will see if I really know what I am doing. Finger crossed all the new lines do not leak. :fingerscrossed:
I do not love the lines from the distribution valve to the line lock, but its the best I could do for now.
Have I showed you guys the awesome xmas gift my wife got me, this Dewalt under hood light is awesome!!!
Progress progress progress.
Spent a few hours prepping parts for paint today. Beauty day for it too!
Did some grinding, some welding, which lead to more grinding, but ready for primer!
Anybody else have trouble keeping their work bench clean...I am a messy worker!!!
Cool. Progress is progress.
Yes on the messy workbench.
Starts clean but in short order it looks like the Tasmanian Devil was there.
Then as soon is it gets too bad I simply push the reset button and all is cleaned again for the next round.
Wish I saw this thread earlier. You appear to have it sorted well with everyone's help.
I also added HB to mine. Also used the higher mounting. Used the same pivot rods from power setup and then also cut mc push rod to be a touch shorter.
Not sure how your lines are run, but their path should be pump to hydroboost in line. HP return line then feeds the power steering pressure line. Then the PB and HP drain lines can just T into each other before returning to the pump.
This flow path is for safety to always have brakes fed first.
Master cylinder (and unit) I have is late 90s Mustang.
Been on for many years and is perfect for feel and stopping ability.
Sunday I got all the hardware assembled to put it all back together, just have to hit it all with black oxide treatment.
Yesterday was dull a dreary here and just could not get motivated to get anything done.
Jason
Today I finally got some time in the garage. Work has been crazy, so I decided to take today off and take some me time.
Got all the hardware the black oxide treatment. It turned out ok.
Plan to get some time over the weekend to got at least some of it assembled.
Also got some new connectors in so I can wire up my new gauges using the factory harness.
Man so much still to do.
Had the day off work today, so out the the garage and got a bunch of assembly done!
Looking good! :clapping: Waiting to hear the road test results! :veryexcited:
Time to get testing going. I assume you will go slow to make sure you have brake. May be Jack the rear up on stands to try first. I remember the nervousness when I first tried my hydroboost after install. Btw, I got the same master cylinder except I went with the white reservoir so that I can see the fluid level.
Quote from: 7212Mopar on May 20, 2022, 05:29:53 PM
Time to get testing going. I assume you will go slow to make sure you have brake. May be Jack the rear up on stands to try first. I remember the nervousness when I first tried my hydroboost after install. Btw, I got the same master cylinder except I went with the white reservoir so that I can see the fluid level.
Oh yeah, it is up on stands now, so I will check everything while it is up in the air.
Congratulations on your installation Cudajason.
I used a GM Hydroboost on my Barracuda.
Currently it is not connected to the steering pump and I am wondering about using a modern electric steering pump?
Sigh....seems like forver since I made any real progress.
I have been picking away at this project though.
The need to replace the rear wheel studs and the the trouble getting the rear drum off has slowed things down. Then needed to do the rear brakes.
Got that all taken care off and even goth the drums turned today....a hard service to find in these parts.
Now I am off on a business trip until Friday, so Saturday I hope to get it all back together, bleed the brakes one more time and see if the brakes actually work.
Quote from: Cudajason on July 11, 2022, 08:05:53 PM
Sigh....seems like forver since I made any real progress.
I have been picking away at this project though.
The need to replace the rear wheel studs and the the trouble getting the rear drum off has slowed things down. Then needed to do the rear brakes.
Got that all taken care off and even goth the drums turned today....a hard service to find in these parts.
Now I am off on a business trip until Friday, so Saturday I hope to get it all back together, bleed the brakes one more time and see if the brakes actually work.
Still progress though.
Good luck for the weekend progress.
Sigh...again.
I got back from a 4 day business trip to Halifax on friday the 15th and got the drums cleaned up a bit and back on on the Saturday. Pressure bleed the brakes, no leaks. Fired it up really quick and no leaks under pressure. Looks like the brakes work, but the peddle is slow to return.
Decided to chase the threads on my lugs, look at the crap and metal that came out of them.
I started to feel kinda rough on Saturday, Sunday I tested positive for covid and have been down all week. Never been so sick in my life. Its ran through the whole family.
Today is the first day I had any energy, and not much of it, so put the rear wheels back on. Now I am whipped.
Later the week I hope to test everything out a little more while it's up on stands. Getting closer to the first spin.
Bummer, COVID residual can last a while. Hope for a full recovery for you and the family!
Sorry your ailing Jason... I searched what might be the issue with the brake pedal not returning.
This response makes sense
" Air still in the system. Drive it longer and turn the wheels lock to lock a few more times to help dislodge air.
According to Norval, this may also happen to you all over again if you were to store it for several months -like winter. A few miles and its back to normal."
Quote from: 70vert on July 24, 2022, 12:02:11 PM
Bummer, COVID residual can last a while. Hope for a full recovery for you and the family!
Thanks man. I appreciate that. Hoping we will all be back to 100% soon.
Quote from: Bullitt- on July 24, 2022, 02:16:57 PM
Sorry your ailing Jason... I searched what might be the issue with the brake pedal not returning.
This response makes sense
" Air still in the system. Drive it longer and turn the wheels lock to lock a few more times to help dislodge air.
According to Norval, this may also happen to you all over again if you were to store it for several months -like winter. A few miles and its back to normal."
Thanks
@Bullitt- (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/bullitt_218) i appreciate you looking into that.
That would make sense. I have been bleeding the system based on some instructions I found online. Initially it made a huge difference. I will keep at it and see if it helps more.
Jason
Sorry you are ailing, Glad you are on the amends.
I had it (probably) when it was first hitting the US. Worst "cold" that had ever hit me in my life.
Took months for lungs to be normal again. Be cognitive of that and take care and pace yourself.
With that said, Hope you get it out soon for the real test.
As far as taking a long time....If it makes you feel any better.....I just got the heater box back in my car a couple days ago after taking it out in, I think March. To start I originally waited until the new heater core ordered in Feb showed up before I removed the box. When it showed, I removed the box. Then the new core was bad. They couldn't get another so refunded my $$. Took a while for me to source another. It didn't show until June 23rd...the day before we left for a three week camping trip. The car will be on it's first excursion outside the garage this week.....ya, sometimes even small projects can take a long time with these cars.
Glad you are close to the finish line!!
Up here at the western end of the province, all of my family and friends that contracted covid only reported feeling tired for two/three days, with one of those days feeling like a cold with a headache/sore throat. But feeling back to normal quickly. Hopefully yours is similar.
Take care Jason, we all will be exposed at some point.
Sorry to hear you're under the weather Jason.
My wife and, later, her mom caught the current version of Covid rolling around the northeast. They both had flu-like symptoms for about 3 days, then spent another 6+ days overcoming extreme exhaustion. Hopefully your path for recovery will be shorter, but don't be surprised if it isn't.
Thanks for al the well wishes folks! I really appreciate that.
I fired up the old beast yesterday and tred to bleed the system, not the results I was looking for.
The pedal just doe not feel right, and braking power is not very good. I put it in drive and it took all it had to stop the rear wheels from turning.
I spent some time today researching the issue and I am fairly certain the issue is the T in the return line back feeding pressure.
So I am going to drop the power steering pump and add a separate return line for the hydroboost.
I also think that I may take out the spacers that are reducing the pump pressure, just to make sure that is not causing an issue.
:wrenching:
Bummer to hear.
I have a T in mine and have had no issues with it over the years.
Simple brass T painted black.
I suspect your bore in the M/C is not correct for hydro boost? See my reply #2 post on page one. When I was researching/gathering parts Cass (DR Diff ) said I needed a 1 .250 M/C to use with HB
But I have no first hand experience either so...?
Maybe use the rockauto catalogue to find out the bore size on various vehicles that use HB set ups?
Quote from: YellowThumper on August 02, 2022, 07:06:06 PM
Bummer to hear.
I have a T in mine and have had no issues with it over the years.
Simple brass T painted black.
What size bore in the M/C are you using?
@YellowThumper (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/yellowthumper_324)
Quote from: Brads70 on August 02, 2022, 07:16:24 PM
Quote from: YellowThumper on August 02, 2022, 07:06:06 PM
Bummer to hear.
I have a T in mine and have had no issues with it over the years.
Simple brass T painted black.
What size bore in the M/C are you using? @YellowThumper (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/yellowthumper_324)
Not exactly sure. 7/8 or 15/16 at the most.
Full hydro and mc setup is 2000ish Mustang.
All my brakes remain factory so larger is not necessary.
1" and up are only necessary with upgraded multi piston calipers that require more fluid movement.
Quote from: YellowThumper on August 02, 2022, 07:27:21 PM
Quote from: Brads70 on August 02, 2022, 07:16:24 PM
Quote from: YellowThumper on August 02, 2022, 07:06:06 PM
Bummer to hear.
I have a T in mine and have had no issues with it over the years.
Simple brass T painted black.
What size bore in the M/C are you using? @YellowThumper (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/yellowthumper_324)
Not exactly sure. 7/8 or 15/16 at the most.
Full hydro and mc setup is 2000ish Mustang.
All my brakes remain factory so larger is not necessary.
1" and up are only necessary with upgraded multi piston calipers that require more fluid movement.
Makes sense, I have Viper Brembo's so that must be why Cass said to use 1.250"
Never mind Jason ignore my post LOL
Just a thought as I had issues getting my stock system to work correctly after a complete overhaul and knowing you have worked on the rear brakes.
On both my '73 after rebuilding the front disks & rear drums and another member's '70 who had recently paid for a complete brake job the pedal would go to the floor with the engine running, but seemed normal with engine off. (He had just driven 300+ miles when his problem appeared) I had discovered that my rear drum adjusters were not engaging and sure enough when I checked his weren't either. Correcting this & getting the rears adjusted properly solved both cars issue...
Quote from: Brads70 on August 02, 2022, 07:30:49 PM
Quote from: YellowThumper on August 02, 2022, 07:27:21 PM
Quote from: Brads70 on August 02, 2022, 07:16:24 PM
Quote from: YellowThumper on August 02, 2022, 07:06:06 PM
Bummer to hear.
I have a T in mine and have had no issues with it over the years.
Simple brass T painted black.
What size bore in the M/C are you using? @YellowThumper (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/yellowthumper_324)
Not exactly sure. 7/8 or 15/16 at the most.
Full hydro and mc setup is 2000ish Mustang.
All my brakes remain factory so larger is not necessary.
1" and up are only necessary with upgraded multi piston calipers that require more fluid movement.
Makes sense, I have Viper Brembo's so that must be why Cass said to use 1.250"
Never mind Jason ignore my post LOL
Yep have to compensate for the volume used. Normal 7/8-15/16 that pedal will be rock hard.
:Thud: :Thud: :Thud: :Thud:
sigh, nothing is easy on this project.
Got a new Wilwood MC...nice looking unit! That sounded like a simple install, bench bleed, 2 bolts and 2 break lines, bleed the system.
reading though the instructions, and it says you hook the front brakes up to the larger of the two reservoirs. On the Wilwood that is the front reservoir. Well factory Mopar MCs the back reservoir is the larger and hooked to the front brakes. I am running a newer aluminum Mopar MC and have the brake lines run that way as per the FSM.
So now I need to redo my brake lines from the MC to the adjustable prop valve. Is it hard, no, but its just another thing that takes more time.
Well I have Friday off, so guess what I am doing.
To make things worse, my son reminded me that the first day of school is fast approaching nd as per our tradition, he would like me to take him to school the first day in the Cuda. So not a lot of time if this does not work. :wrenching:
Good luck. You deserve some now for sure.
You'll get it. One thing about it, the projects that test you give the most satisfaction. I (unfortunately sometimes) never give up on anything I do, I attribute that to working on cars all my life. I often thought "I'm gonna sell this POS after I get it back together" but I never gave up.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on August 25, 2022, 03:03:52 PM
You'll get it. One thing about it, the projects that test you give the most satisfaction. I (unfortunately sometimes) never give up on anything I do, I attribute that to working on cars all my life. I often thought "I'm gonna sell this POS after I get it back together" but I never gave up.
Yeah Inknownit will all be worthbit when I am done, and I typicaly enjoy the time iget to workmon the car, but this project is really testing me.
Here is todays test, new wilwood MC, already to be bench bleed, and I notice the screw hole is complelty buggered up...pic below. :verymad: so now I am working on getting a replacement!!!
On the bright side, I think i discovered my issue. Looking at the old MC I did not realize there was a significant recess in the MC plunger. So it would appear that the HB pushrod was was not making contact with the MC until the very end of its stroke. Not sure how i missed that!!!
The wilwood mc has the same recess but comes with a spacer to fill the gap. Of course that spacer was too long, so i spent a bit of time filing that down to fit.
I think i have that part worked out wit a little bit of a gap so the HB push rod is not engaging the brake with out pressure on the pedal.
One of my brake lines fit now I just have to bend up a new line for the front.
I just signed up to this forum. I have hydroboost off 2000 dodge ram 3500. I had it for 5 years problem free.
More pics
I swapped out the factory federal pump to higher pressure Saginaw pump. The federal pump lasted a year with the hydroboost. The federal pump was rebuilt and leaked puddles.
Almost there!!!
Got the new Wilwood MC installed on Friday and dropped her off from the jack stands for the fist time in far too long.
Took her for a little spin around the block and it runs and stops!!!!
Got her all cleaned up over the weekend. I went for little linger spin today, line 10 mins max, and lit looks like the front brakes are dragging and the pedal is not returning all the way. She goes just fine and will spin the tires at 1/4 throttle from a light, but then will stop it self without touch the brakes.
So I wonder if i dod not get the space in the mc short enough.
I but a couple of washers in between the MC and HB to space it out a bit and see of that works.
Test drive tomorrow with the little man for the first day of school.
You should have some free play between the MC piston and the hydroboost pushrod with the pedal all the way up. With the engine off and the hydroboost accumulator discharged after pressing the brakes down several times you should be able to feel it by hand as you depress the pedal. After the pedal take up there should be a period of lighter effort before the MC piston starts to move. If not, you're diagnosis is right and the compensating ports are likely being blocked off or restricted. I'd shoot for about 1/8" minimum to account for heat expansion and any unintended pump up in the assist unit.
Quote from: Dmod1974 on September 05, 2022, 06:58:48 PM
You should have some free play between the MC piston and the hydroboost pushrod with the pedal all the way up. With the engine off and the hydroboost accumulator discharged after pressing the brakes down several times you should be able to feel it by hand as you depress the pedal. After the pedal take up there should be a period of lighter effort before the MC piston starts to move. If not, you're diagnosis is right and the compensating ports are likely being blocked off or restricted. I'd shoot for about 1/8" minimum to account for heat expansion and any unintended pump up in the assist unit.
Yes sir that seems to have been my issue. I spaced it out with some washers and the brakes are not dragging now. nit sure it is totally fixed yet, the pedal is not always coming all the way back, but I will work on that.
Sure was nice to take the car for a spin!
Yea, but did you take your kid to school ?
Quote from: anlauto on September 06, 2022, 06:33:27 AM
Yea, but did you take your kid to school ?
sure did! he was happy.
Quote from: Cudajason on September 06, 2022, 11:17:52 AM
Quote from: anlauto on September 06, 2022, 06:33:27 AM
Yea, but did you take your kid to school ?
sure did! he was happy.
Close call there with the kid. Glad that worked out for you.
Some good info here? Push rod depth gauge and I noticed they recommend 1 1/8" MC for hydroboost?
https://baer.com/Remaster.html
Quote from: Brads70 on September 07, 2022, 12:08:13 PM
Some good info here? Push rod depth gauge and I noticed they recommend 1 1/8" MC for hydroboost?
https://baer.com/Remaster.html
Oh cool a new tool!
I love that Bear MC, I was going to go that route, but damn its pricey
The Wilwood is a 1 1/8th bore, as Wilwood recommended.
I did some reading and the pedal return is common in new instals, might just need to drive it a bit and bleed the HB unit.
I will also rebleed the brakes and see what that does.
Quote from: Cudajason on September 07, 2022, 06:37:41 PM
Quote from: Brads70 on September 07, 2022, 12:08:13 PM
Some good info here? Push rod depth gauge and I noticed they recommend 1 1/8" MC for hydroboost?
https://baer.com/Remaster.html
Oh cool a new tool!
I love that Bear MC, I was going to go that route, but damn its pricey
The Wilwood is a 1 1/8th bore, as Wilwood recommended.
I did some reading and the pedal return is common in new instals, might just need to drive it a bit and bleed the HB unit.
I will also rebleed the brakes and see what that does.
I mentioned this because in their video they said 0-.005" clearance of the pushrod?
Maybe you will need a light spring to return the pedal?
Quote from: Brads70 on September 08, 2022, 05:51:31 AM
Quote from: Cudajason on September 07, 2022, 06:37:41 PM
Quote from: Brads70 on September 07, 2022, 12:08:13 PM
Some good info here? Push rod depth gauge and I noticed they recommend 1 1/8" MC for hydroboost?
https://baer.com/Remaster.html
Oh cool a new tool!
I love that Bear MC, I was going to go that route, but damn its pricey
The Wilwood is a 1 1/8th bore, as Wilwood recommended.
I did some reading and the pedal return is common in new instals, might just need to drive it a bit and bleed the HB unit.
I will also rebleed the brakes and see what that does.
I mentioned this because in their video they said 0-.005" clearance of the pushrod?
Maybe you will need a light spring to return the pedal?
INTERESTING!
I will try it with one washer instead of two and see if that helps. of course I need to sort our my overheating issue first.