I just pulled the 340 out of my cuda. I am changing the cam and adding a 6 barrel set up. My stock fuel pump went out and I replaced it with another cheap china made stock one. I took the car to the local track last summer to get a time on it before changing the cam, but the fuel pump just failed to keep up. Car would bog and stumbled badly. I want to take the car to the strip every once in a while so i need to upgrade. I was thinking of going with a full mechanical pump (carter ect.) but was wondering if it would be better to go with a electrical pump instead. Is there an electric pump set up recommended for a basic street / occasional strip set up. Or would a mechanical pump be enough.
There's lots of electric pumps out there that supply enough for the strip. Might have to put a pressure regulator in there with it though.
Just make sure it is a quality, QUIET running pump. Otherwise you will get tired of the whine coming from the pump. I know I did, that's why I got rid of the electric.
I would just say that a lot of cars have been raced with mechanical pumps; the key is to get a good one. That said, there are many good electrical pumps out there as well; again you need to buy quality and insulate it from whatever you bolt it to in order to reduce noise (a piece of rubber between the pump and its mount point works).
Either way will work. Mechanical is quiet and you don't have to wire it. I've made lots of drag strip passes with dual quad Hemis with mechanical pumps.
I would install a better quality mechanical fuel pump, a new pump eccentric and a temporary fuel pressure gauge to make sure it really is a fuel delivery issue.
Lots of strong running small and big blocks running mechanical pumps.
I'm running a basic 8 psi. Carter muscle car series mechanical fuel pump with stock 3/8 pickup and fuel lines on a fresh aluminum headed 440 Six Pack and have never had any fuel delivery/starvation issues.
I've run the Mallory 110 pump on my 505 stroker and 408 stroker now and really like it. It is arguable the quietest pump on the market and does a great job.
Mallory 110 is the best choice for electric pumps as it is quiet & efficient .
I would still prefer a high volume Mechanical pump though .
You say the car stumbled at the strip.what rpm did you leave at ? If you left at 5000 rpm it could be your ecu is astock one. My car did that a I had to go to a chrome one to handle higher rpm I think the highest is orange
Orange is the street box , Chrome is the upgrade , Gold was the peak performance one but would not withstand being idled
my engine quit running out of no where a while back.
turns out the orange box was to close to the header pipe,
and was getting cooked.
Ha: It occurs to me I've killed them all. One gold box, a few chromes and a few orange as well. Lately I've run chrome with a spare in the glovebox. I have an ancient MSD5C with a Chrysler plug that still works though. It's almost like the old electronics is more reliable than the new stuff which makes no sense at all.
I just wanted to echo the warning about the noise made by external electric pumps. Mine was driving me crazy so we got a Tanks Ink tank for my 70 Challenger which allows you to use a submersible pump inside the tank. I'm VERY happy with that decision and the newfound quiet. :veryexcited:
In the old days they used to make 1000s of ECU every day & the quality had to be good , now I am sure they are made in smaller batches with cheaper components , none are used on the assy line for decades & nothing new has been developed other than Rev-A-Nator .
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on February 11, 2018, 06:18:28 AM
Mallory 110 is the best choice for electric pumps as it is quiet & efficient .
I would still prefer a high volume Mechanical pump though .
:iagree: Cheaper, less hassle to install, no noise and more than adequate.
Try an Edelbrock Mechanical Fuel Pump. Spend the extra money. It's worth it.
As a side note I always use mechanical pumps But I always modify them , I take them apart & drill out the restricted ares in the casting , behind the threads where the fuel line fittings are installed the casting can restrict down to less than 1/4" ID , not much point in using 3/8" line when the pump is not even 5/16" inside , I enlarge the hole to the maximum without damaging the threads , , there is also a hole inside that should be opened up too .
I'm going electric because of fuel bowl evaporation. Not sure if it's just a Krazyfornia gas mixture problem or not.
CP is right about size, that's what I'm finding with some fittings.
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on March 06, 2018, 06:03:33 PM
As a side note I always use mechanical pumps But I always modify them , I take them apart & drill out the restricted ares in the casting , behind the threads where the fuel line fittings are installed the casting can restrict down to less than 1/4" ID , not much point in using 3/8" line when the pump is not even 5/16" inside , I enlarge the hole to the maximum without damaging the threads , , there is also a hole inside that should be opened up too .
I never noticed that. Is that on the Carter mechanical pumps?
Carter & Holly mechanical pumps that can be disassembled
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but I have a similar question that I'm hoping to find the answer to. 1973 440 stroked to a 499 and it needs a fuel pump. After reading a lot of threads (including this one), I think it's best I go with a mechanical pump. That being said, if I google Carter Performance Fuel Pumps or something similar (Holley, etc.) then I get a wide array of different models to choose from. How do I know which is the correct one for my motor? For instance, this Google search on Carter returns many results, all having numerous model numbers:
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Carter+muscle+car+series+mechanical+fuel+pump (https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Carter+muscle+car+series+mechanical+fuel+pump)
Only 2 on the top row Holley or Carter
https://www.manciniracing.com/search-results.html?catalog=chucker54&query=449+fuel+pump+&Submit=Search
Check with Dave @ Roseville he may even be able to get a discount , I know he deals with Mancini
Make sure you check the pushrod length while you are in there :bigthumb:
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on May 08, 2019, 11:13:43 AM
Make sure you check the pushrod length while you are in there :bigthumb:
Why? What's the significance of this?
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Quote from: rdf on May 08, 2019, 01:17:29 PM
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on May 08, 2019, 11:13:43 AM
Make sure you check the pushrod length while you are in there :bigthumb:
Why? What's the significance of this?
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Somewhat common for the pushrod to wear down not allowing enough stroke on the fuel pump , making people think the fuel pump is bad. :wave:
Quote from: Brads70 on May 08, 2019, 02:32:23 PM
Quote from: rdf on May 08, 2019, 01:17:29 PM
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on May 08, 2019, 11:13:43 AM
Make sure you check the pushrod length while you are in there :bigthumb:
Why? What's the significance of this?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Somewhat common for the pushrod to wear down not allowing enough stroke on the fuel pump , making people think the fuel pump is bad. :wave:
Yeah, and the replacement sold by Mopar Performance wears down allot quicker than the original so IMO I find a original with no measurable wear....
Quote from: Brads70 on May 08, 2019, 02:32:23 PM
Quote from: rdf on May 08, 2019, 01:17:29 PM
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on May 08, 2019, 11:13:43 AM
Make sure you check the pushrod length while you are in there :bigthumb:
Why? What's the significance of this?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Somewhat common for the pushrod to wear down not allowing enough stroke on the fuel pump , making people think the fuel pump is bad. :wave:
Ok, so this won't really apply to me cause my motor hasn't been turned over since being built 8 years ago.
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Quote from: rdf on May 08, 2019, 03:01:34 PM
Quote from: Brads70 on May 08, 2019, 02:32:23 PM
Quote from: rdf on May 08, 2019, 01:17:29 PM
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on May 08, 2019, 11:13:43 AM
Make sure you check the pushrod length while you are in there :bigthumb:
Why? What's the significance of this?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Somewhat common for the pushrod to wear down not allowing enough stroke on the fuel pump , making people think the fuel pump is bad. :wave:
Ok, so this won't really apply to me cause my motor hasn't been turned over since being built 8 years ago.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Should be ok , easy enough to check though just to put your mind at ease should be 3.250" long I believe.....
make sure the problem isnt simply a vapor lock type of problem. In both my 66 Charger with 4V 383, and my 74 challenger with small block 360, i moved the rubber fuel line to around to back firewall then over to the carb, .because in HOT weather on a full wot run, i could run out of fuel after about 5 secs... moved the line and problem goes away...
I also had a holley blue 14psi electric pump on my 66 charger and a fuel regulator and hated the damn thing because it was NOISY as hell. It also had the problem of fuel starvation on a full wot run in hot weather until i moved the line.
This would be assuming that the pushrod was checked or changed 8 years ago , often they were never removed in the last 50 years
Yes: It's actually something to be checked on yearly maintenance.