Hi all still getting things ready for this a833 swap
Got the carpet out, got the console removed along with the seats but what's the best order to approach this in ?
I was thinking
1. Install the clutch pedals
2. Cut tunnel
3. Then install the bell housing
4.Install clutch and trans Then onto car without rods
5.Install linkage rods on trans from under the car
6. Instal z bar
7. Install drive shaft
8. Install shifter and boot
9. Celebrate by driving to mopar fling irwindale
Does that sound about right ?
My engines out of the car
Put the Z bar bracket on the frame rail while the engine is out. And install the pilot bearing. Got all the dust boots and shield?
Good point I forgot the pilot bearing, I already have it and yes I have everything else
You might have issues if you install the bell housing BEFORE you install the clutch....just sayin :P
Haha good point my bad . Knowing me I'll forget to put the clutch and flywheel on then you'll see a thread on why won't my car shift, start or move ha ha
Quote from: Purepony on October 22, 2020, 11:57:28 AM
Hi all still getting things ready for this a833 swap
Got the carpet out, got the console removed along with the seats but what's the best order to approach this in ?
I was thinking
1. Install the clutch pedals
2. Cut tunnel
3. Then install the bell housing
4.Install clutch and trans Then onto car without rods
5.Install linkage rods on trans from under the car
6. Instal z bar
7. Install drive shaft
8. Install shifter and boot
9. Celebrate by driving to mopar fling irwindale
Does that sound about right ?
My engines out of the car
Step 1. Put the engine back in the car. Install the clutch pivot, bell crank, and bell housing pivot. You need to do this with the bell housing that you are going to use. Don't need clutch, flywheel, or anything else...but you need to know where the engine sits left to right. Tack weld the bracket to the sub frame.
Step 2. Remove the engine.
Step 3. Finish weld the bracket.
Step 4. Do the rest of your stuff.
I did this conversion last year on a 70 e-body. When i got all done, the Z-bar would not fit in the car between the bell and the frame! So I got to do it over.
The reason for this is because the clutch pivot is welded to the subframe, and you need to put it in the right location LEFT to RIGHT. The aftermarket bracket is not exactly the same as the factory one...and depending on the Z-bar...you need to make sure you put it in the right place.
That's a good point I didn't think about that 😐
Thanks for the input
What's the deal with the spring on the pedal ? Do u put that on before you bolt it up or do you do it after
My Challenger had a slot in the frame rail and a tab on the z-bar bracket. No guessing at all.
Or you can put in a hydraulic setup and forget about the Z bar completely.
I'm going to check if it has any indicators
I haven't had a chance to go through it since I'm correcting the steering coupler too
I though about the hydraulic clutch but I want the feel of a manual old school clutch, I have a t56 so I want something with a different feel
What is the condition of your engine compartment?I would drop the K frame and clean everything up.After you weld the Z bar bracket you will need to paint that area.If you engine compartment needs paint I would do it then.I know this is opening up a can of worms but since the motor is out take advantage of it.You can attach the bell housing and trans to the motor and put it back in as one.
Are you planning any tunnel mods to fit the T56 in there or are you lowering the entire engine/trans location?
Install the spring on the clutch pedal Before installing the pedals into the car otherwise it si a battle
I'm assuming you mean install it as a whole ?
Like assembled
As seen in this pic
Correct.
I know you don't care about originality, but those pedals are correct for 73-74 and not for 70-72. THEY WILL WORK with no problems. Not shown in you picture is the clutch pedal safety switch. This could determine why the Brewers set-up cost more.
I think it would be a heck of a job installing that whole assembly in your car with the dash assembly and power brake booster in the way. :alan2cents:
My cars a 74. The switch happens to be rare and brewers only sells the switch but requires a core and I don't have one. I know there's were two on eBay one for 449 and another for 499. I'm still holding out on the switch, the reverse light, a few other things and the carpet. I already went out of budget so I'm going to have to wait at least until I go back to work... if everything goes well
On the switch I might have to go with a different solution but we'll see right now I would really just like to get the car running safely since it's been sitting since 2014.
No need for a several hundred $$ clutch switch unless you want originality. I used a microswitch on the floor on my car. You could also use something like in the link below. Cheap and easy...
https://www.ebay.com/i/291649152666?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=291649152666&targetid=4580840328167961&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=403204656&mkgroupid=1235851284511226&rlsatarget=pla-4580840328167961&abcId=9300377&merchantid=51291&msclkid=c99cc6e3f89b1ddd709e99763b5d9a87
:iagree:
Gotta admit, I swapped the auto to a 4 spd in my '74, didn't wire in the clutch switch with the original harness, and everything started up just fine.
Still wondering what you're doing to fit the T56 in the trans tunnel with the structural member right where the shifter will go.
$5 limit switch will do the job or go without. The T56 swap was not into a Mopar HP2 from what I read.
I have an 833 with od that's going in this car. I have a t56 I installed in my camaro
Almost done with pedal install
Hopefully today's the day 😒
Quote from: HP2 on October 23, 2020, 06:41:13 AM
My Challenger had a slot in the frame rail and a tab on the z-bar bracket. No guessing at all.
Mine was a 70 Challenger Convertible. Maybe that was the difference???
Quote from: Purepony on October 25, 2020, 10:10:48 AM
My cars a 74. The switch happens to be rare and brewers only sells the switch but requires a core and I don't have one. I know there's were two on eBay one for 449 and another for 499. I'm still holding out on the switch, the reverse light, a few other things and the carpet. I already went out of budget so I'm going to have to wait at least until I go back to work... if everything goes well
On the switch I might have to go with a different solution but we'll see right now I would really just like to get the car running safely since it's been sitting since 2014.
You don't need a safety switch. Just ground the wire. You will be as safe as every other brand of pony car built from 64-72. I defeated the clutch switch on my 'cuda. Don't need it, isn't any safer, and drives me crazy when I want to crank in Neutral. Mopar / Jeep even gives you the option on the Wrangler to insert a fuse and defeat the clutch safety switch.
Same is true for the reverse lockout. Doesn't seem to prevent vehicle theft. Just forces you to put the car in Reverse to twist the key.
And I leave that giant spring on the bench. But since I run the 1985 Corvette 10-3/4 (actually 10-7/8) scalloped pressure plate, and the mopar 11 inch disc, (actually 10-7/8) I don't need the extra over-center spring, have light pedal pressure, and the biggest clutch that will fit a 130 tooth flywheel.
Certainly you don't NEED a clutch safety switch...But once you have seen someone reach in, and turn the key to start a manual transmission car, thinking/assuming it is in neutral, car starts and runs into a brick wall you might feel a little differently...I bet I am not the only to see that happen
Quote from: Purepony on October 26, 2020, 08:49:38 AM
I have an 833 with od that's going in this car. I have a t56 I installed in my camaro
Almost done with pedal install
Hopefully today's the day 😒
Gotcha. Thought you were sticking that in the E body.
A simple brake light switch will also work so the pedal has to be depressed at least 1" for the car to start
Installed the clutch so at lease I got that done
The pedals I can't finish I need a second helper to put the booster in while I hold the bracket up so we'll see how that goes and I broke the heater control cable 😬
Besides that's it's going so so