What are people using under the carpet?
Dynamat seems to be fairly popular. Is there much difference in function between Dynamat and the cheaper generic type products?
Some cheap brands are thinner, you have to check the label for thickness, otherwise they pretty much do the same purpose.
On a couple of resto-mods I've done I used a brand called WIREZ, same thickness but literally half the cost of dyno-mat.
Peel & Seal . . .
I bought Fatmat, worked great! I think its just as good as Dynamat and less expensive.
We sell the Eastwood and one other brand, I used Proform on my orange car. I think they all are pretty comparable.
Thanks guys, sounds like they are pretty much the same.
I guess anything has to be better than the carpet underlay direct on the floorboards.
To do what you see the other fellas have done here, will be more than 100 sq/ft :alan2cents: so any savings will add up quickly.
So how many sqft is needed to do the floors and doors like pictured
Quote from: Katfish on November 05, 2018, 03:13:01 PM
So how many sqft is needed to do the floors and doors like pictured
For the Cuda, I ordered 2 36' bulk packs that come in 9 18" x 32" sheets that made measuring, cutting and fitting easier for me. This covered the floor and doors, I did not do behind the rear panels or roof.
https://www.fatmat.com/shop/36-sq-ft-fatmat-bulk-pack-install-kit-included-23333
Quote from: Katfish on November 05, 2018, 03:13:01 PM
So how many sqft is needed to do the floors and doors like pictured
For my Cuda, I think I ended up buying four or five rolls (each roll comes in a 6" wide roll that is 25' long). I did my entire firewall, floor and rear wheel wells up to the trunk entrance . . . I also ended up putting some on my doors as well.
Okay....I thought I used more then that...it's been awhile....The stuff I bought came in 90 sq/ft rolls I believe, maybe I'm wrong... :looney:
Was anyone using their car prior to fitting?
Curious to know how much improvement in both noise and heat after fitting the insulation?
Great question above, along those lines, where is the most bang for the buck?
I'm mainly concerned about noise, the rattle type these old cars have.
Would I hear improvements just doing the doors, or is the floor needed too.
Appreciate the sqft numbers, based on both responses, sounds like 72sqft is the number.
Quote from: Katfish on November 07, 2018, 02:34:08 AM
Great question above, along those lines, where is the most bang for the buck?
I'm mainly concerned about noise, the rattle type these old cars have.
Would I hear improvements just doing the doors, or is the floor needed too.
Quote from: redgum78 on November 06, 2018, 10:39:23 PM
Was anyone using their car prior to fitting?
Curious to know how much improvement in both noise and heat after fitting the insulation?
I was driving both my Cuda and Charger before installing the FatMat insulation. It made a big difference on both, especially with road noise and closing the doors. Now instead of sounding like a hardware store inventory crashing down, the doors sound are solid. I installed insulation on the inside of the outer door skin where I could reach (behind the side window), and on the inside. The other difference is less heat coming from the firewall.
:iagree: While I do not have the experience of driving mine before installation, I can say that there is a noticeable sound (or lack there of) difference inside the car between having nothing and having something.
Used a lot of dyna mat. expensive for sure but tap the car anywhere and it sounds like lead.
Made a huge difference for sound, not sure on heat. it's a must do! My doors went from sounding like a tin can with nuts and bolts in it to the sound of a modern new car door when closing. Won't have another car without it.
Its totally worth it, not sure its worth the time to hit every square inch. I notice no real heat change, but it sounds WAY more solid and is quieter inside.
Thanks for all the feedback. I was 50/50 about putting it in the doors. I will be doing that for sure now.
Cheers
Dan
On an E-body the doors are almost the most important part. It really takes the tinniness out of them.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on November 08, 2018, 07:07:27 AM
On an E-body the doors are almost the most important part. It really takes the tinniness out of them.
I did one door last night.....its a bit tricky getting it between the side intrusion rail and the outer skin.
Quote from: redgum78 on November 08, 2018, 10:57:07 PM
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on November 08, 2018, 07:07:27 AM
On an E-body the doors are almost the most important part. It really takes the tinniness out of them.
I did one door last night.....its a bit tricky getting it between the side intrusion rail and the outer skin.
I found that if you can get the stuff stuck to the outer skin in as many places as possible, knowing you will not cover it all, that is good enough!
I agree, just to the beam is enough. The skin doesn't even need to be totally covered. You're taking the resonance out of the sheetmetal.
The stuff I got came in sheets 16x10 inch. It was pretty tricky but I managed to slide it between the intrusion beam and the outer skin. Then I forced a bit of garden hose between the beam and the insulation and scissored it back and forth to apply pressure to get it to stick behind the beam. One sheet per door, should be good I think.
Yes, that will work great.
Fat mat [emoji106]
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