E-Bodies.org Cuda Challenger Forum

Hi everyone!

Some history. When I was growing up in high school in the late 90s, I was a part of a friend circle that drove around muscle cars. I finally ended up with a 1965 Galaxie which was a project to say the least. I spent about 2-3 years of my life, and all my money nursing the car back to health and making it shine again. Long story short: I spent more time working on it than actually driving it once it was finished. Sold it and got an all around car for college. I still drive that car to this day!

Well, many years later, I am thirsting for a 70-74 Challenger/Cuda that is "driver" quality. Being that I have experience in restorations (including motorcycles), I'm well aware of what shoddy work looks like and where rust forms so I know the basics of where/what to look for.

I cannot tell you why I'm looking specifically for a Mopar all of a sudden. I guess I'm a little rebellious. My dad hates dodge, but I'm willing to think he'd be pleasantly surprised and would want to drive it if I ended up with one. :) I also think the e-bodies are the greatest looking muscle cars of all time!

So anyways, I have $32,000 saved up. My thinking is this should easily get me a "driver" quality Cuda/Challenger with a 340 or above V8. Obviously, my preference would be a 4-speed, but as we all know, you cannot be picky with the transmissions when the right car comes along. My goal is to buy something that's ready to drive and enjoy--not a project. I don't want another repeat of the Galaxie that I had when I was younger.

Lots of forum browsing makes it clear that most people are extremely picky when it comes to #'s matching. I however, do not mind having a non-numbers matching, as long as it was priced accordingly and the work that was performed was sound. I figure buying something that you can enjoy and modify ("make better" such as brake enhancements) is more fun than paying more for something that you're afraid to drive and touch...

Anyways, welcome to be on board. I've been looking for the past few months in a 500 mile zone around the Boise area, and it's pretty darn hard to find an e-body. I've been using eBay and Carsonline from time to time to search as well.

I would appreciate any advice.

Some questions:

1) I do not mind the 72-74 Challengers with the right colour combinations and the dorky thick bumper rubbers removed. How easy are those to remove and/or make smaller? I think a 72-74 challenger with a 340 4-speed would rip!

2) How much cost is involved in "de-smogifying" the 72-74 340/360 engines?

3) With a 32k budget, is it pretty unlikely finding a "sound" 70-71 Cuda/Challenger that's "drive" ready and isn't caked with pounds of bondo?

Welcome @kawahonda (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/kawahonda_2011)   :welcome:  You are right, E-Bodies are the best looking muscle car of all time!   :twothumbsup:   I think you'll be surprised how much $32,000 will get you.  There are some nice E-Bodies in that price range, but you have to be looking and ready to jump on a good car when it comes up.  Good cars that are priced right do sell pretty quick.  I'll keep my eye open for you.

Quote from: Brads70 on June 07, 2018, 06:41:02 PM
:welcome: a good friend is selling this, maybe it fits the bill for you?
https://forum.e-bodies.org/cars-for-sale-or-wanted/8/1971-challenger-rt-clone-with-shaker-for-sale/6344/

Beautiful Challenger. Thanks for sharing. Price is a bit high for my budget, and taking shipping into account and buying sight-unseen would certainly blow it way over. Beautiful car though, no doubt! Toronto and Boise are more than half a country away. :)

In a perfect world, my wish list is a 70-71 Challenger with a 440 4-speed. But that's a bit wishful at a 32k budget.

A 383 car would be awesome...no doubt a 383 could roast tires. :)

There's definitely examples of nicely modified 70-71s selling for $30k that are indeed pretty nice, but they're a bit few-and-far in between. I've sent the word to the local mopar nuts that I am in the market. My father has passed the word on in WA so we'll see if that helps. Word of mouth is sometimes the best way to find the best cars.

Definitely want to find a ride that's away from the rust belt!

Thanks for helping me in my quest guys. I consider the 72-74 a "fall back" plan for the challenger. Personally, I feel a little uneasy spending $30k on a 72-74 challenger unless there was something truly amazing about it. As you guys said, the bumpers are an easy replacement, but the frowny grill isn't so easy to revert (I actually don't mind the grille THAT much, but it certainly looks a little "off" and will always look off). Believe it or not, I actually like the rear end of the 72-74s.

I do prefer the body lines of a challenger over a cuda, but I certainly would never swat away the chance to buy a cuda at the right price!

Hard top or vinyl top both look great to me.

 :welcome:
Welcome from Atlanta! Good luck on your search!

 :welcome: to the site  :cheers: and good luck

@kawahonda (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/kawahonda_2011)  a buddy of mine just found a fantastic barn find tonight!  Just a matter of a few hours ago he found this 1970 Challenger 340 rallye hood pretty much original and still original paint.  It would make a super car to drive and enjoy and most likely will be well under your budget.  AND it's in Washington state.  I think he's going to get it running and driving.  It's going to be coming on the market soon so get in touch with him if you want first shot at it (if I don't talk him out of it first).  Looks like it's all numbers matching too!!!!  He's a member on here so maybe he'll be able to post more photos for you.  @70mopes (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/70mopes_25)  is the member and his name is Charlie. 

Quote from: Cuda Cody on June 07, 2018, 07:45:38 PM
If you can buy this car near $20k and it's all original / numbers and running and driving I think that would be a good deal.  What do you guys think? 

Fun car to drive and don't have to restore it or worry about a road rock ding or scratch.  Plus later in life you might want to restore it and it looks to be super solid.  Not many of those type of cars left.   :alan2cents:

I think that would be a good as long as the body is sound. 

A great  :welcome: from Sylmar, CA

Washington has been a good source for E-bodies all right, just don't tell anyone.

Burnt Orange with an Orange gut!!!!!  :wowzers: Nice  :bradsthumb:

Welcome!

Cudas and Challengers can be scarce. You should be able to find what you're looking for in the 30-35K range. If it were me out there shopping in that budget I'd be looking at 1972 340 4 speed cars, particularly the 'Cuda as it is my overall favorite aside from the side-marker lights. You can do some modifications like improved brakes / engine work to them and still enjoy taking them out.

Not sure what the reserve is on this car:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Other-Makes/273260221458?hash=item3f9f941412:g:JdgAAOSwVttbFefD&vxp=mtr

Here's what appears to be a nice '74:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-Plymouth-Barracuda/223004003327?hash=item33ec130bff:g:XXwAAOSw-0RbFFQU&vxp=mtr

Another '74 that you may be able to negotiate the price down on:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Barracuda/123172928693?hash=item1cadadbcb5:g:YKEAAOSwdxZbFdDs&vxp=mtr

This challenger is in the ballpark:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Dodge-Challenger/192551576021?hash=item2cd4f7e1d5:g:-OAAAOSw6XJa4nXa&vxp=mtr

Quote from: Cuda Cody on June 07, 2018, 07:25:43 PM
@kawahonda (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/kawahonda_2011)  a buddy of mine just found a fantastic barn find tonight!  Just a matter of a few hours ago he found this 1970 Challenger 340 rallye hood pretty much original and still original paint.  It would make a super car to drive and enjoy and most likely will be well under your budget.  AND it's in Washington state.  I think he's going to get it running and driving.  It's going to be coming on the market soon so get in touch with him if you want first shot at it (if I don't talk him out of it first).  Looks like it's all numbers matching too!!!!  He's a member on here so maybe he'll be able to post more photos for you.  @70mopes (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/70mopes_25)  is the member and his name is Charlie.

That's something to check out for sure :)

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on June 08, 2018, 07:07:12 AM
Washington has been a good source for E-bodies all right, just don't tell anyone.

:rubeyes:

Time to fire up the CTD

In case anyone is curious here is the Challenger Cody mentioned.  It was listed in an estate sale this past weekend but apparently they sold it to Cody's friend before the sale.  They wouldn't let me open the hood but it looked nice.

Thanks everyone again for the warm welcome!

Still looking!

Probably not still looking....

:wrenching:

Ok so what changed , did you buy a car ?

@kawahonda (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/kawahonda_2011)  what's happening?  Were you able to find a car?  :fingerscrossed:

Quote from: kawahonda on June 15, 2018, 08:19:16 AM
Charlie and I were able to work something out.  :burnout:

So what'd you get?

Fantastic!!!!  Congratulations.  Can't wait to see some photos of you getting it.  Keep us updated.

No problem! I'm going to have A LOT of questions going forward (and pictures). Primarily around where to go to buy specific things. :)

   A big   :welcome:   from Boise.  Just found this thread.  Will be very cool to see another E body show up in the valley. I got my cuda torn down at the moment or we would probably already of met. I usually go to all the local car shows on the weekends with it. And usually the only E body there.  You can get a hold of me, my E-mail is in my profile. Looking forward to seeing your car.  Doug     

Cool Doug! I actually sent you a message on Facebook.

   OK. Just looked at facebook and saw it.  Went out of facebbok and now its gone and I cant find it again. I'm a bit technically challenged when it comes to this kinda stuff if you know what I mean.     :dunno:    E-mail me your contact info and we will meet up in the near future. 

Dave @ Roseville is the first place to go for any parts  :twothumbsup:

Some general questions for you guys.

1) Do "additions" to a numbers-matcing car detract from value? For example, adding a power brake unit. Adding front discs. Adding hood pins. Adding the clock that didn't originally come with it. Etc?

2) Are TTI Headers generally considered the best headers for these cars as far as having the best blend of fit, performance, clearance, ease of installation? What finish is typically recommended? Is 2.5" considered an optimal exhaust size, even with a future 375HP build? Muffler recommendations? Also, the exhaust tips are corroded and need to be replaced. Any recommendation on OEM-like exhaust tip (that don't have the OEM price?)

3) Wheel and tire sizes recommendations. I need recommendations and pictures for wheel/tire sizes for a 70 A66 Challenger. I'd like a little of a staggered look, but nothing that looks too far from stock. I plan to get cast aluminum 15" Ralleyes, but not sure of what backspacing for front and rear I should go with. Also, tire size recommendation? Tire brand recommendation (the "de-facto" choice is BF T/As).

4) Doing the brakes is going to absolutely be something that's on the list. I'm assuming that what should be done is more than just adding new shoes and possibly turning the drum. Is there any other things you guys recommend? If so, please link! 11" drums, by the way.

Probably have other questions later, but that should help start getting me thinking of some future things.

I guess it depends how rare the car is and if you like driving it; My opinion:
Power Disc brakes bolt on and will make your enjoyment of the car much more relaxing. Almost a must do and you'll drive it much more.
TTIs are pretty much the standard for headers and aftermarket looking exhaust now, 2.5 inch is great for a smallblock even a stroker.
Cast aluminum rallyes, go directly to the Year One 17 inchers. They look great and you will be able to get better tires than 15 inch.
As above I would study the Dr. Diff site and do a disc brake front swap using OEM based parts, cheap, effective and long lasting.

Thanks! That's a cool site.

Dr. Diff's Stage 2 Front Brake kit looks pretty interesting. 11.75" of Front Disc brake power over the 11" drums. Worthy upgrade? Would probably be a good time to convert to power brakes too. You did mention though instead using OEM parts. Are you talking about going to a junk yard and doing some pulls instead?

I'd love to see pictures of 15" and 17" wheels on challengers. Please post guys if you have pics...

Quote from: kawahonda on June 16, 2018, 09:43:59 PM
2) Are TTI Headers generally considered the best headers for these cars as far as having the best blend of fit, performance, clearance, ease of installation? What finish is typically recommended? Is 2.5" considered an optimal exhaust size, even with a future 375HP build? Muffler recommendations? Also, the exhaust tips are corroded and need to be replaced. Any recommendation on OEM-like exhaust tip (that don't have the OEM price?)

TTI...yes, 2.5 if you want low end power...yes, I am happy with ceramic coated, I have flowmaster super 44s...NOT Quiet, but thats the point.  If you think OEM tips are expensive dont look at TTI.  Problem is if you are going with 2.5 all the way out, then go down to 2 inch tips...defeats the purpose of 2.5 headers. 

Try Accurate exhaust for the SS tips. Classic Industries might have them too. TTI tips are nice but expensive. Cast aluminim Rallye are 17" wheels and not 15". Most will go with 8" wide front 4.25" BS. Rear can be same size or go with 9" wide 5" BS. Just Google Yearone Rallye and lots of pictures. If you have the stock Rallye center caps you can reuse them. The 17" Raylle wheels will fit Dr. DIFF 13" Cobra brake kit but not the Brembo kit.

Quote from: kawahonda on June 16, 2018, 10:23:05 PM
Thanks! That's a cool site.

Dr. Diff's Stage 2 Front Brake kit looks pretty interesting. 11.75" of Front Disc brake power over the 11" drums. Worthy upgrade? Would probably be a good time to convert to power brakes too. You did mention though instead using OEM parts. Are you talking about going to a junk yard and doing some pulls instead?

I'd love to see pictures of 15" and 17" wheels on challengers. Please post guys if you have pics...

Congrats on getting a car!
If your local yard has some older cars I would try and get the pin type caliper mounts.
"You'll also need a pair of rotors and caliper adapters (a.k.a. brackets) from most any '76-'79 B-body or 79-up R-body (St. Regis, etc.) Be careful when perusing the boneyards for theses, as Mother Mopar pulled off quite a bit of "badge engineering" in this period, resulting in some B-bodies carrying traditional C- body nameplates. The sure cure: check the VIN tag. Find an R, W, X, or S as the first character, and you're home free."
https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/brakes/disc-main.html

For the exhaust tips, do some research! I found most just expand the pipe on the tips to get to 2 1/2" which restricts the flow. If your going to all the time and expense of going to 2 1/2" or what ever else  don't put a " cork" on at the end with the tips that have a 2" pipe expanded to 2 1/2"
Rear disc brakes .... unless your building it to autocross/road race I think they are a unnecessary expense.  Drums will work just fine in the rear. I had the smaller drums on mine for years and it worked just fine with the above stock disc brake set up. The only thing I found was pad selection for autocross or heavy braking was horrible and brakes faded quick once you get some heat in them. Maybe now pad selection has improved, I don't know? ( I,m now running Viper Brembo's and DrDiff small rear discs)
Power brakes.... I'm still running manual brakes . They work ok. I'f your engine is not stock it may not make enough vacuum to power the disc brake set up Again DrDiff has the M/C and adapters you will need.

Quote from: kawahonda on June 16, 2018, 09:43:59 PM

3) Wheel and tire sizes recommendations. I need recommendations and pictures for wheel/tire sizes for a 70 A66 Challenger. I'd like a little of a staggered look, but nothing that looks too far from stock. I plan to get cast aluminum 15" Ralleyes, but not sure of what backspacing for front and rear I should go with. Also, tire size recommendation? Tire brand recommendation (the "de-facto" choice is BF T/As).

Welcome to the site from Buffalo, NY!  :wave:

Regarding wheels and tires, you might want to look through the thread on the link below to see what others have done.  I've probably spent more computer time on this topic than anything else I've done with my car.   And I'm still thinking about it.

https://forum.e-bodies.org/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-and-steering/12/e-body-tire-sizes-what-fits-whats-too-big-what-looks-good/4016/

These are JY spindles, caliper adapters and new rotors and calipers. They worked great. I used a manual master cylinder and I thought it worked great. I don't think you need a power booster but lots of people like them. The calipers and rotors were off a 79 New Yorker I believe. Thats the JY rotor in the photo but I bought new ones before running the car.

Thanks guys.

Exhaust:

What do you think about something like this for the tips? Doesn't look like much expansion on the inlet. Do you guys think this would hurt performance? https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-Inlet-Quad-Square-Out-Exhaust-Tips-for-Dodge-Challenger-1970-71-72-73-74/263071422616?hash=item3d40475898:g:5Y0AAOSw~e5ZW5kP

For mufflers (mine comes iwth pinholes so they should be replaced), I'm looking for something that's going to give the 340 a really nice tone and growl, but certainly am not looking for glass pack-like noise. Any recommendations here?

Brakes:

I just got back from the junk yard, and didn't see any older Chrysler vehicles. How does doctor diff's Stage 2 Front brake kit compare to the factory 11" oversized drums? Regarding a booster or not, I guess I just need to drive the car "as-is" for a little bit to get an idea of whether or not I'll demand it or not. The 11" drum on the rear should be plentiful I would imagine.

Wheels:

Not sold on 17's after I've seen some pics. Much prefer the 15's. Would be nice if there was a Ralleye in a 16" wheel...that may be the ticket. If there's no 16" ralleyes, then it's going to be 15" Ralleye Steelies for sure. Hey, at least I saved some money, and I could probably reuse all my center stuff! For the 15" Ralleyes, I suppose I can just mimic the stock backspacing for whatever Dodge did with their own 15s in 1970?

This is an earlier A66 model that came with 14" ralleyes (ugh). Would have been nice if it started off on 15s. :)

Those tips look good and not restricted !  :bradsthumb:

Those tips are a fraction of the cost of TTI and dont look like the restrict flow.  Not sure of the quality, but $125 and free shipping :bradsthumb:

Can you guys do me a favor if you have the stock tips? can you measure them and let me know what you came up with. I'd like to make sure that the tips on the Ebay link will fit like a glove. Something I'll definitely snatch.

Quote from: kawahonda on June 18, 2018, 08:20:43 AM
Can you guys do me a favor if you have the stock tips? can you measure them and let me know what you came up with. I'd like to make sure that the tips on the Ebay link will fit like a glove. Something I'll definitely snatch.

NOS Tips and aftermarket tips measure OD 1 15/16" - very much doubt a near stock 340 is going to be restricted by these. 

Also all A66 cars came with 15" rallyes in 1970, never heard of an early car getting 14" wheels.  If you have a broadcast sheet that shows14" tires that would be interesting. 

Congrats on getting the car

Thanks for your reply. I will get new 2.5" exhaust. Planning for a future 375HP build. Do it once, do it right!  :grouphug:

Not true on early a66s. Early ones came with 340 decal on hood and 14" ralleyes. Car was built in early November of 1969. Many other owners are claiming the same. Dodge did a rolling change to metal hood badges and 15" ralleyes sometime during the month of November. Search for it.

Very interesting.

Many years ago I had an A66 4 speed car that believe was early since it had no holes in the hood for the badges however my car did have 15" Rallyes (which I still own)

Now my 71 Challenger 340 is a 14" hubcap car  :rubeyes:

Hi guys,

Brakes should definitely be at the top of the list. I'm convinced that I don't need a booster and I'm convinced that my 11" drum if rebuilt and adjusted properly, would probably be pretty sufficient for the time being!

Where do I begin with a good "going through" when it comes to the brakes? Anyone sell any kits, and could you guys put together a parts list/links for what's usually required?

Right now the brakes are kinda binary. It's either "barely enough" to "holy shit!". There's a range in-between, but it takes some practice.

I always do the 3 flex hoses, M/C and wheel cylinders on an unknown car. Brake lining too if they look rough. 11 inch drums have manual adjusters so you have to keep on that. Carefully check all the steel brake lines as well and with the age of these cars it is usually a good idea to just change them as well.

Cool, any recommendations/links of where these are? So far:

3x Flex Hoses

M/C and Wheel Cylinders...I assume a rebuild kit or a flat out replacement?

Brake shoes

I'll also want to look into having the drums turned.

Those seem to be the "for sure" things. I will certainly check the lines. I have reason to believe the car only has 68k miles, so I wouldn't expect things to be too bad. Underneath is rust-free.

Looks like NAPA has some good stuff. So far, I have the 11" drums in my cart, as well as the 11" brake pads. I have two front brake cylinders in my cart too. Napa doesn't appear to have the rear (unless the rear doesn't have them?). They have quite a bunch of master cylinders....not sure which one to get. Any help there? Here are the two options that I "think" may be what i need:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMAM1874M

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMAM1874

I see they have brake hoses too. I'm assuming I need two brake hoses in the front (according to NAPA they are the same part). Any other hoses?

When the semi-bad fuel gets ran out, I want to replace my spark plugs. What do you guys recommend? Might as well add them to the cart too.

Only turn the drums if they need it. 

You can new shoes and spring kits from RockAuto just pick a trusted brand

Also check the adjustment is good

Let me know what you guys think about my previous post. I'd rather pre-order, than to tear it down and have to wait. I hate subsequent trips to the part store. I think I have most everything in my shopping cart, just need confirmation that a) There's only two brake hoses that are used, b) it's always a good idea to replace the drum and shoes, c) which master cylinder to get, and d) the rear wheels do not have cylinders. For now, enjoy the pictures.

Charlie is an awesome guy. Sadly, no pictures of us drinking some micro-brews. Probably the best part.

Car is in original condition and shape. Yes, you do not see these much anymore. Charlie was amazing and got it up and running and driving. I could have stayed there for most of the day if I wasn't having to dread the drive. Took off from Seattle at 7PM and got into Boise at 6 AM. Yes, I hauled it with my dad's car from sundown to sunup. It kicked my ass. I'm continuing to work out the bad gas. Runs like a raped ape when a segment of good gas comes through for awhile. Fuel filter still looks good and no visible chunks or anything. Not much metal to cut at all when the body work begins. All original. I may actually believe that there could be 64,000 miles on the odometer. It's going to a good home, and I will make sure of it. Charlie is the type of guy that you just damn owe it to.

Definitely going back to his shop to drink some beers and shoot the shit. Cuda Cody, too bad you didn't stop by. You guys are welcome down in Boise any time. For now, I hope you guys help me get this back from "golden" to "super golden".

The car begs to be driven as-is. I ain't going to touch the paint/body for several years. For now, it's all about the BRAKES. Getting it super safe to drive. Shit, I took my dad/GF to dinner last night in it....7 miles away. We loved it. Balled it around in the parking lot! Tons of fun. It's all thanks to Charlie!

In order. Brakes -> Rims (15" US Steel Ralleye's/235 all around) -> Exhaust (TTI 2.5 kit using factory manifolds) is the order of operations here guys. Charlie would approve! You just don't want to mess this one up...

Pressure washed it the next day (immediately used leaf blower to dry anything possible). Added some decals that you guys posted and the ol' flip fuel cap. This is now one A66 alright....

Whoa: Great car. I agree drive that as is.
Yes you need a rear brake hose, it runs from the body line down to the rear axle where the two steel axle lines attach to it. I would keep searching for the rear wheel cylinders. New drums won't hurt to order, they won't be available forever and if you don't need them this time they would be good to have on hand. I only change brake lining if it is 50% worn or if it is old and the bonding might come loose but same thing, it would be good to have them on hand when you pull the brakes down. I didn't study the m/c's as in my experience even if you order the correct one per the listing it might be the wrong one in the box anyway, you sort of order them and take a chance.
Oh before tearing into anything make sure that both left and right emergency brakes are working properly. Sometimes new cables are required.

So glad you got the car.  That is 1 awesome find!   :clapping:  Thanks for sharing some photos.   :1place:

Great car and glad you found another good Mopar guy!  As others have said, make it safe including brakes, shocks, suspension and drive it as is!  :banana: :wrenching:

Is this car a 4 speed? Looking at the car I would like to suggest not adding headers or TTI exhaust to it. I think stock style Accurate exhaust may be more in line with the unmolested look of the car. Of course it is your car to do with as you please but that is just what I would do with it if it were mine.

Alright, please check this. Looks like RockAuto is actually cheaper than NAPA.

Brake drums. I'm pretty sure that these are correct. Only the rear will be finned, but that's all that's available:
(https://image.ibb.co/btoDuo/drums.png) (https://imgbb.com/)

Brake shoes. I'm pretty sure that these are correct as well. Organic type.
(https://image.ibb.co/cxdtS8/shoes.png) (https://imgbb.com/)

Wheel Cylinders. This is where it gets a bit weird. There appears to be a front left and front right, both having a 3/8-24 inlet thread size. It appears the rear left/right doesn't differ from eachother, but the inlet size differs at 7/16-24. Is this correct?
(https://image.ibb.co/mTrV78/cylinder.png) (https://imgbb.com/)

master cylinder. 1" bore size. Rock Auto doesn't give details whether or not it's for units without a booster, or using drum brakes. primary outlet is 9/16"x20 and secondary outlet is 1/2"x20.
(https://image.ibb.co/mXHnn8/mc.png) (https://imgbb.com/)

Front hose. I'm assuming I need to get two of these:
(https://preview.ibb.co/mjTouo/front_hose.png) (https://ibb.co/nuuTuo)

Rear hose. Still missing in action, not on NAPA or RockAuto.

Hardware kits. It appears that hardware kits differ from 10" drums to 11" drums, to front, and to rear. So pretty specific. Looking at this list, it gives me zero confidence that what I am ordering is correct. Any recommendations?
(https://preview.ibb.co/mjrDS8/hardwarekit.png) (https://ibb.co/g64YS8)

Quote from: kawahonda on June 28, 2018, 03:14:51 PM
Nope, I would never throw anything away...well, maybe except for the exhaust pipes. :)

What's your wheel/tire combo on that burnt orange challenger?

Looks like you have the darker caps on the wheels too, exactly like how I want. Can you send a side shot?

The tires are 255/60R15 on original 15x7s.  The caps are original light argent but as the argent wears off they get darker. 

I'll have to see if I have a side shot