Put the ignition key in the ignition switch upside down thinking it was my Silverado truck. Now the key won't turn and it will not come out of the ign switch. Tried wiggling the key, pushing the key in or pulling it out but the key is stuck. The 73 Challenger has console with floor mounted shifter, a separate locking lever on the steering column and must be pressed down and held before the key can be turned. Tried putting the gear selector in Park and neutral with no luck. :pullinghair: What to do?
Are you thinking it's stuck from the lockout collar not functioning or because it's upside down?
Quote from: Cuda Cody on July 26, 2018, 03:19:38 PM
Are you thinking it's stuck from the lockout collar not functioning or because it's upside down?
I don't know. If it is the lockout collar how do I over ride it? If the key is stuck because it was inserted upside down how is this problem solved? Glad this happened in my garage and not out of town. My car has PS and I'm wondering if it is related? Worst case scenario might have to replace the column? :pullinghair:
This happened to me years ago. I took off the key ring and clamped a pair of vise grips to the ignition key and pulled it out of the column. Nothing broke thank God but that might have been just dumb luck on my part. Tried everything and this was a last resort. :alan2cents:
It's not the lockout.... You haven't turned the key (it's upside down) so the lock out hasn't been a factor..... The key is stuck.... Pull it out with force... :alan2cents: Put a rod through the key ring hole so you have something to grip.....
Read this thread from cc, sounds like chrycho had the solution
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=57392.0
I have seen this often , what happens is the key buzzer lever on the bottom of the key way hooks into the cuts on the key , usually pulling it out with vice grips makes the situation worse as the key will break off in the lock 90% of the time , now you have a jammed & broken key to extract what is needed is a thin piece of steel slide in along side of the key or below the key to lower the buzzer lever to release the key or you can pull the crush can to get to the buzzer switch inside the column .
I am trying to think what most people would have handy , maybe a slice out of a Soda can flattened out & slid in beside the key
Had that happen a couple of years ago going to Ohlone colledge car show. Stopped for gas and putt key in upside down, pulled like hell and wiggled and cussed and discussed but finally got it out. Fortunately I removed the steering lock when I built the car so if I had to I could have hot wired the car to drive it home. Iron Man your situation made me realize this is not a rare occurrence and I wondered why I had never done this with the Challenger I drove for 20 years then I realized that keys are symmetrical for most newer cars and I no longer paid attention to up or down.
Happen to me too. Key inserted upside down, partially in and stuck, but not turned. Grabbed it with pliers and pulled it out. Inserted it correctly and everything works ok.
Guys, tried clamping vice grips on the key. Did not work. The key is stuck like it is welded in place.
dave73Chally - Thank you for linking me to Chryco Psycho's thread dated 2009. The post below Chryco Psycho's by willard suggests using a paper clip with wd40. I will give the paper clip procedure a try. It worked for willard.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I will post the paper clip idea results.
Maybe if you could rig up a slide hammer to the key. Some gentle (or not so gentle) taps might make it come out easier then just pulling force.
I got the key to come out on the 4th try using the paper clip technique. Inserted a straightened out small paperclip at the bottom of the key and the key pulled out rather easily. Then, inserted the key right side up and now the key will not rotate and unlock the steering wheel, and the key will not turn to start the car. UGH! So the column locking lever when pressed down does nothing. Tried to start car in Park and Neutral the key will not turn the ignition switch. So maybe the collar lever was defective all along.
Do you have a spare key?
Do you have A spare key? If so, I would try it. maybe the teeth got A little damage! :alan2cents:
I feel for you, a couple of years ago the guys that were doing my alignment jammed the key in upside down and couldn't get it out.
Manager told me "don't worry, we'll break it off and get a locksmith to fix it", I said you got to be kidding me and told them to go away and let me try.
I was lucky, after wiggling it for 10 minutes it came out with no damage.
Quote from: IRON MAN on July 27, 2018, 12:29:11 PM
I got the key to come out on the 4th try using the paper clip technique. Inserted a straightened out small paperclip at the bottom of the key and the key pulled out rather easily. Then, inserted the key right side up and now the key will not rotate and unlock the steering wheel, and the key will not turn to start the car. UGH! So the column locking lever when pressed down does nothing. Tried to start car in Park and Neutral the key will not turn the ignition switch. So maybe the collar lever was defective all along.
On the bright side...it is not THAT difficult to replace the ignition switch.
years ago, I put the key in and it just wouldn't turn things...I was out with my young daughter. Had to get the car towed home.
Cody has a great video or PDF doc that will walk you through taking it apart and putting it all back together. Took me an afternoon. A pain in the but yes, but fixable.
Jason
No spare key for trunk or ignition. The keys are cheap aluminum keys. I need to learn how to swap out the ignition switch and put in a new one. Who sells the best quality ignition switch. The keys have been hard to use since the day I bought it. Today, tried to open the trunk. Key will not turn inside the trunk lock. I recently replaced the weather stripping and installed a duct tail spoiler. I recently had to slam the trunk shut because of the new weather stripping....must have knocked something loose slamming the lid down. DOUBLE WAMMY this week.
Quote from: IRON MAN on July 27, 2018, 03:21:58 PM
No spare key for trunk or ignition. The keys are cheap aluminum keys. I need to learn how to swap out the ignition switch and put in a new one. Who sells the best quality ignition switch. The keys have been hard to use since the day I bought it. Today, tried to open the trunk. Key will not turn inside the trunk lock. I recently replaced the weather stripping and installed a duct tail spoiler. I recently had to slam the trunk shut because of the new weather stripping....must have knocked something loose slamming the lid down. DOUBLE WAMMY this week.
Aluminum keys? I think mine are brass by looking at them. I have no issues with the ignition, doors or trunk. Could aluminum keys be a problem?
Everything you need to know is right here.
https://www.e-bodies.org/videos/
If you dont like videos, there is a good PDF version abailabel too!
Jason
Cudajason, Thanks for the link to the steering column video. CudaCody does a great job explaining without skipping stuff. To remove the ignition switch takes a lot of disassembly. Spent am coffee break watching Part 1 (ID) and Part 2 (disassembly). May need to get a screen mounted on the wall above the vice to do a follow along if the ignition switch needs removing. Thanks again
Quote from: IRON MAN on July 28, 2018, 12:34:00 PM
Cudajason, Thanks for the link to the steering column video. CudaCody does a great job explaining without skipping stuff. To remove the ignition switch takes a lot of disassembly. Spent am coffee break watching Part 1 (ID) and Part 2 (disassembly). May need to get a screen mounted on the wall above the vice to do a follow along if the ignition switch needs removing. Thanks again
I might be wrong but for you, worst case scenario is you might need to replace the lock cylinder not the ign switch? I'd bet a good locksmith could make you a set of keys with out replacing the cylinder? Worst case scenario is to remove a door lock, and bring it to a lock smith with your old keys and ask to get a key made, then try it in your ign? I got all mine ( tumbler, and all door/trunk locks ) from my local jobber . Then brought it all to a locksmith and said to make the ign, doors use the same key. Didn't cost much? Standard Motor Products
http://ecatalog.smpcorp.com/STD/#/vehicles/parts/num/DL-125?type=s
Quote from: IRON MAN on July 28, 2018, 12:34:00 PM
Cudajason, Thanks for the link to the steering column video. CudaCody does a great job explaining without skipping stuff. To remove the ignition switch takes a lot of disassembly. Spent am coffee break watching Part 1 (ID) and Part 2 (disassembly). May need to get a screen mounted on the wall above the vice to do a follow along if the ignition switch needs removing. Thanks again
No problem man, happy to help.
If you want a step by step document on the dissasambly, instead of the video, there is one available. It also stars Cody!!!
Jason
Quote from: Brads70 bove the vice to do a follow along if the ignition switch needs removing. Thanks again
/quote]
I might be wrong but for you, worst case scenario is you might need to replace the lock cylinder not the ign switch?
Brad, took your suggestion seriously. Last night, on eBay a seller has five NOS Ignition switch w/ Penstar keys Dodge Challenger 72 73 74. New in MOPAR package for columns without tilt steering. $36.99. If anyone else is in my dilemma seller "thomas-j-sestak-autoparts has four (4) left. His eBay score for 55,791 sales is a perfect 100 rating. Hopefully I won't need it but it is worth the peace of mind if I ever do.
They wear out anyway. Order it, put it in and be happy. They aren't that bad to change. Just get your door locks matched up as well.
Quote from: IRON MAN on July 29, 2018, 10:18:50 AM
Quote from: Brads70 bove the vice to do a follow along if the ignition switch needs removing. Thanks again
/quote]
I might be wrong but for you, worst case scenario is you might need to replace the lock cylinder not the ign switch?
Brad, took your suggestion seriously. Last night, on eBay a seller has five NOS Ignition switch w/ Penstar keys Dodge Challenger 72 73 74. New in MOPAR package for columns without tilt steering. $36.99. If anyone else is in my dilemma seller "thomas-j-sestak-autoparts has four (4) left. His eBay score for 55,791 sales is a perfect 100 rating. Hopefully I won't need it but it is worth the peace of mind if I ever do.
These will fit a 70-71 as well however the key bezel is industrial chrome which is shinier than the correct 70-71 finish which is silver argent....
These will fit a 70-71 as well however the key bezel is industrial chrome which is shinier than the correct 70-71 finish which is silver argent....
[/quote]
1 Wild R/T, nothing 400 grit can't fix. Correct me if I'm wrong, these keys are probably brass under the industrial chrome. The seller is fast, got a pm from him in less than 12 hrs, stating the cylinder and keys have been shipped.
Quote from: IRON MAN on July 29, 2018, 11:29:23 AM
These will fit a 70-71 as well however the key bezel is industrial chrome which is shinier than the correct 70-71 finish which is silver argent....
1 Wild R/T, nothing 400 grit can't fix. Correct me if I'm wrong, these keys are probably brass under the industrial chrome. The seller is fast, got a pm from him in less than 12 hrs, stating the cylinder and keys have been shipped.
[/quote]
Keys are probably brass.... But it's not the keys that was argent... It's the bezel.... And yes tat to is an easy fix....
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on July 29, 2018, 11:44:48 AM
Quote from: IRON MAN on July 29, 2018, 11:29:23 AM
the correct 70-71 finish which is silver argent....
:iagree:
What mine looked like before I replaced it.
Well, all these years without a key issue...until today. Key broke inside the cylinder. I cant believe it! I found this thread in a search, ordered a new cylinder from Thomas-j-sestak on ebay. I was trying to watch the videos but they come up with no picture. Would someone kindly send me a link to either a good video copy or a pdf. Also, I have never done this before, any tips or secrets to it? can it be done with out a steering wheel puller? Many thanks guys!
You'll need a steering wheel puller.
Rockboys, The NOS ignition cylinder from Thomas on eBay arrived in 6 days. In came in the original packaging but it had been opened. So I checked to make sure the ignition switch/cylinder was indeed NOS. EP0100 is stamped on the housing. The label on the Mopar package shows part # 2920010041907. The Mopar label ignition housing part # contains the sequence 0100. Does this sequence verify it is NOS? Hmmm. There is another number stamped on the housing 18594 and another RH2. The keys have a tiny letter "A" beneath the Pentastar. I'd be interested in knowing the alpha numeric numbers on the ignition switch you get from Thomas. I've been rebuilding my 68 AMX front suspension and have not made the time to install the new NOS ignition cylinder. I did watch the above video on disassembly and every minute was worth watching.
Ill let you know when I get it.
So after taking everything apart, ordering a new key and tumbler, I come to fine out my column is either a 70 or a 71. not a 72. Someone must have changed it before I bought the car back in the day. Needless to say, the switch I ordered doesn't fit. So I took the original to my local locksmith. He took the tumblers out, removed the broken key, and made me a new key. Put it back together and I'm good to go...at least I thought.
Now another problem arises. with a little effort, the whole shaft will move "pull out" from the little box down in front of the main steering box. the one that has the grease seal and cover. It will move approximately a half inch and stop. So I tore the column apart again thinking maybe I had the one c clip in the wrong slot, but I didn't, and it really didn't matter because I can still pull the shaft in and out. I watched Cody's video again, and it looks like there is a pin that holds the shaft in place. Should it have that much play? I cant believe that this could be "okay". somethings not right. Input is much appreciated guys. Thanks a mill!
Yes, the plastic pins are broke. They make a kit to fix it, but not sure it's available anymore. Do a quick search and you'll find a few different ways people have fixed it.
Totally unorthodox I know, but as a last resort, A hot glue gun with high strength rods will work. It may be the only option in this time IDK. Good luck!
Where are the plastic pins located?
https://forum.e-bodies.org/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-and-steering/12/steering-column-shaft-repair-kit/199/
There are two locations on the upper shaft where there are holes, total of four holes... But the lower shaft doesn't have holes, it has grooves.... The pins are moulded in the column by injecting plastic through one hole till it seeps out the other side... When the plastic sets up the shaft is locked to length... When new it took about 550 lbs of force to shear the pins but as the plastics age they deteriorate & fail much easier...
You can set the length, drill through the inner shaft & pin it with nylon pins, melt the ends with a soldering iron to lock them in place...
Sorry about the double post
New to me is the two piece shaft, however, I don't believe that is my problem. My shaft seems to be still in tack as one piece. Looking at the above pic, my shaft is sliding in and out of the coupler by about 1/2 inch.
Yup, your shaft is 2 pieces and the pins are broke. The end shaft will then move up and down in the coupler.
I get what you guys are saying, but I can push and pull the shaft in and out of the couple from the steering wheel. If the shaft was in two pieces so to speak, I would think I wouldnt be able to do that? When I was driving it, I was able to pull back on the wheel
And it moved. If it was in two pieces, then pulling on the steering wheel shouldn't come out of the coupler. I'm wondering if there is some kind of a clip inside the column that may have broke or come loose.
Yes, there is a clip in the column. You might need to take it apart and see what is going on?
So if you pull the steering wheel towards yourself while seated in the seat the steering wheel comes towards you? :huh: Can you take a photo?
Yes, that is correct. It happened when I was driving it. Now, the furthest I went in disassembling was down to the lock gear. Is there a clip or something else further down that may have come off?
When I pull out on the "lock" gear, I can pull the shaft out of the coupler. Its pushed in right now, where it should be. Watching your videos I don't see where there would be another clip holding the shaft from moving in and out of the couple. When it was all together and I pulled on the steering wheel, the crash can came away from the bottom column. So everything was tight on the shaft up top.
With everything back together, and you pull on the steering wheel.....it can move, but certainly NOT a half of an inch....maybe an eighth of an inch....maybe...and it shouldn't even be able to move that easily... :huh:
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 20, 2018, 08:00:21 AM
Yes, there is a clip in the column. You might need to take it apart and see what is going on?
So if you pull the steering wheel towards yourself while seated in the seat the steering wheel comes towards you? :huh: Can you take a photo?
Well, looks like I have more work to do also. In and out play photos when seated in the seat . Guess it's time to view
@Cuda Cody (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cuda-cody_1) the steering column videos you made .
There should be a snap ring above the bearing & below the bearing.... The bearing is trapped between the housing & the retainer so there shouldn't be any movement of the steering wheel..... The column is designed to collapse to absorb any movement of the steering box/frame rail in the event of a crash....
And the travel in the coupler is to allow for minor angularity changes...