This valve is not moving at all, very rusty, I assume the pin in the middle supposed to move up and down with the wire?
Was thinking of soaking it in acid overnight, maybe it will loosen up...
Maybe use some good penetrating oil instead of acid. It's usually the internals get corroded up.
That looks like an aftermarket unit anyway, unless you can free it up easily, you should just replace it. I know you are overseas so you probably can't get it fast, but those parts generally aren't serviceable.
I tried penetrating oil, can I tap with a hammer on the middle round axle?
Yeah, I'll get a new one eventually, was just trying to be cheap. :)
I'd be really nervous about getting too aggressive with it, if you don't have a spare and want to drive the car. You may break it and cause it to leak, then you'd have to replace it or bypass your heater hoses before you could drive the car again. :alan2cents:
The originals are plastic or some sort of Bakelite material, those break and leak by themselves with time.
Quote from: JH27N0B on August 04, 2020, 10:31:54 AM
I'd be really nervous about getting too aggressive with it, if you don't have a spare and want to drive the car. You may break it and cause it to leak, then you'd have to replace it or bypass your heater hoses before you could drive the car again. :alan2cents:
The originals are plastic or some sort of Bakelite material, those break and leak by themselves with time.
If the heater control valve is in that kind of shape you can rest assured the heater core is in tip-top shape right? Sometimes they are stuck closed for a reason... most times I see a short segment of heater hose from the intake manifold to the water pump return... can almost guarantee the passenger side carpet smells of anti-freeze... :))
I'd probably soak it in Evaporust. :alan2cents:
Car been in a barn for 33 years so there is a chance the heater core is not in great shape either.
Gonna try again with some heat and then freeze spray, I get good results on rusty bolts with that.
Found this, looks like metal.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1974-Plymouth-Dodge-1971-1973-Dodge-Truck-Temp-Water-Control-Valve-NOS-NORS/373070996359?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095853%26meid%3D07e0dfcc36b74ac0b28f914228e287f3%26pid%3D100903%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D14%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D373070996359%26itm%3D373070996359%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2510209%26brand%3DDodge&_trksid=p2510209.c100903.m5276
I wouldn't hold out much hope for that working again
Mine is that style too. It's an aftermarket replacement. Mine was also stuck shut. I managed to get it open a little by spraying some penetrating oil and slowly working it back and forth. Got it to open a touch to help on those chilly days.
I got a replacement for it from rock auto. Also got a new heater control cable as that got all bent to hell in the process.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Unfortunately for us Mopar fans, any and all of the various water valves are a PITA. :pullinghair:
My 73 has nothing at all, its just a hose straight from the engine to the firewall..
Is this why it feels like the heater is on in the summer time?
AC heater boxes function differently than non AC boxes. If you have an AC box, you need to have the water valve or you will have hot air inside the car at all times. On AC cars, the water valve is directly controlled by the temperature lever on the dash. The cable goes directly from the temp lever to the water valve. Non AC cars do not need a water valve because the heater box controls the temperature of the air going into the interior via vacuum controlled doors.
If you have hot air all the time and you have a non AC heater box, sounds like the box is not working correctly. Check the operation of the door that controls the air flow inside the car. If that's okay, the door seal may be bad or the door itself is stuck open.
Found someone selling them here, 170 bucks! :angry:
47 bucks at Rock Auto.
Not bad, $28 for shipping to Sweden!
And deliver will be Aug 17th they say.
With a little luck it will slip thru customs without a fee :)
If not....25% sales tax.
Yes, there are reproductions out there that aren't to expensive. most of them work decent too.
I have discovered, the throw length on their lever is somewhat different from stock and my original and then reproduction heater valve cable did not get full cold-hot travel on the control head when attached to the repop valve. You can offset it to one side or the other, or modify the cable.
Quote from: HP2 on August 06, 2020, 02:00:20 PM
Yes, there are reproductions out there that aren't to expensive. most of them work decent too.
I have discovered, the throw length on their lever is somewhat different from stock and my original and then reproduction heater valve cable did not get full cold-hot travel on the control head when attached to the repop valve. You can offset it to one side or the other, or modify the cable.
Thanks, I'll check that when I get it.
Wow, got a package from RockAuto today, with the brackets I ordered, not the valve yet.
But 5 days to Sweden, thats the fastest shipping I ever experienced!
And no custom fees or sales tax added! :)
That's incredible.
Quote from: soundcontrol on August 11, 2020, 02:03:04 AM
Wow, got a package from RockAuto today, with the brackets I ordered, not the valve yet.
But 5 days to Sweden, thats the fastest shipping I ever experienced!
And no custom fees or sales tax added! :)
The other half of the order is probably on a slow boat making it's way around the Cape of Good Hope..... ;)
Quote from: Scooter on August 11, 2020, 11:15:13 AM
The other half of the order is probably on a slow boat making it's way around the Cape of Good Hope..... ;)
Yeah, and thats the part I needed. :haha:
The brackets are for the future restoration.