Hello All --
I have this 340 engine that I am pulling out my Cuda, I think I want to go with a modern engine, I'm 50/50 right now.
But I would like to know how much this engine is worth, I really have no clue.
I believe the blue vin code says: 0B198015
Does anyone know if this is from an original car?
Any help helps. Thank you!
An original car, yes unless someone stamped it later. But original to yours dont know till we see your vin.
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340's are going for $2500ish, unless you match it to the original car. Then its whatever the owner wants to pay to have a numbers engine! :banana:
Quote from: 303 Mopar on December 01, 2018, 12:30:17 PM
340's are going for $2500ish, unless you match it to the original car. Then its whatever the owner wants to pay to have a numbers engine! :banana:
Never seen one sell that high unless it was pretty fresh with machine shop receipts....
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on December 01, 2018, 12:40:17 PM
Quote from: 303 Mopar on December 01, 2018, 12:30:17 PM
340's are going for $2500ish, unless you match it to the original car. Then its whatever the owner wants to pay to have a numbers engine! :banana:
Never seen one sell that high unless it was pretty fresh with machine shop receipts....
You're right, would be helpful to know more about the engine.
It's not an original engine for my car. My VIN is completely different.
The engine was running at first, but gave out on me. I haven't been able to figure out why.
Gas was mixing with the oil.
Does anyone recommend rebuilding the engine or purchasing something more modern?
What's range of horsepower am I looking at if I rebuild and throw some money at the engine ?
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Well, swapping to modern will cost you $$$$. Rebuild wont be cheap but will be less
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Personally I'd sell the 340, pick up a 89-95 360 roller block & build a 408 stroker... 450 HP is easy & very streetable 650 is doable but probably not what most would call streetable...
Should have specified which version of modern. Going modern hemi is expensive
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Well I was thinking one of those plug and play crate engines. Possibly the 6.2. I don't have hellcrate money, although that would be nice, but realistically i don't know if the car can handle that much power without investing thousands into other components. Plus I still need extensive body work done on my Cuda.
I'm really torn between what I would like to do.
I want to be able to drive the car once it's done regularly.
If anybody is searching for this engine tho, I don't mind letting it go for a fair price. Seems like they're not worth too much.
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I have a similar dilemma, my 340 runs great, but a Gen3 Hemi would be so much more driveable.
From what i'm researched, it a $10-$15k investment.
I guess it depends just how much you plan to drive the car.
On another note, when i found gas in the oil, it was the fuel pump. Easy fix and you're back up and running.
Dan, is that about what it ran?
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Unless you already have deep pockets and a big budget I'd keep that 340 and run it until you have the money in hand to do a modern hemi swap. Looking at your profile picture I'd respectfully say you have a long way to go money wise in body /paint . It's not the big ticket items that "get ya" building these cars, it's all the "little" things near the end that really add up. My :alan2cents: .... get it running and driveable with what you have and plan on doing the drivetrain last.
Quote from: Katfish on December 01, 2018, 02:36:51 PM
I have a similar dilemma, my 340 runs great, but a Gen3 Hemi would be so much more driveable.
Please explain? Put FI & an overdrive on your 340 or better yet a 408 & tell me what the GenIII gets you other that the wow factor?
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on December 01, 2018, 03:06:56 PM
Quote from: Katfish on December 01, 2018, 02:36:51 PM
I have a similar dilemma, my 340 runs great, but a Gen3 Hemi would be so much more driveable.
Please explain? Put FI & an overdrive on your 340 or better yet a 408 & tell me what the GenIII gets you other that the wow factor?
Funny you mention that, I have a 518 and Fitech. The OD made a world of difference, the Fitech so-so.
I still only get 12mpg around town and 16 on the Hwy, not something I would drive everyday.
Maybe i'm asking too much, but I have a 06 Mustang GT, and would love my Challenger to drive somewhat similar.
Quote from: Brads70 on December 01, 2018, 02:59:44 PM
Unless you already have deep pockets and a big budget I'd keep that 340 and run it until you have the money in hand to do a modern hemi swap. Looking at your profile picture I'd respectfully say you have a long way to go money wise in body /paint . It's not the big ticket items that "get ya" building these cars, it's all the "little" things near the end that really add up. My :alan2cents: .... get it running and driveable with what you have and plan on doing the drivetrain last.
I agree with Brad. Get your current 340 running and enjoy it as you finish the body, then you can decide to rebuild or stroke it or go Gen III. A Gen III is around $12k minimum, then you still have a lot of body/paint and the little things at the end.
Fuel in the oil is a fuel pump or carburetor issue. Should be an easy fix for less than $500 with a carb rebuild or replacement at worst. Any hemi crate is going to be a minimum $10k investment to even hear it turn over.
Quote from: Katfish on December 01, 2018, 04:05:47 PM
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on December 01, 2018, 03:06:56 PM
Quote from: Katfish on December 01, 2018, 02:36:51 PM
I have a similar dilemma, my 340 runs great, but a Gen3 Hemi would be so much more driveable.
Please explain? Put FI & an overdrive on your 340 or better yet a 408 & tell me what the GenIII gets you other that the wow factor?
Funny you mention that, I have a 518 and Fitech. The OD made a world of difference, the Fitech so-so.
I still only get 12mpg around town and 16 on the Hwy, not something I would drive everyday.
Maybe i'm asking too much, but I have a 06 Mustang GT, and would love my Challenger to drive somewhat similar.
FiTech doesn't seem to help mileage much but it sure seems to improve starting & all around throttle response.... It doesn't make more power, just makes things more consistent...
Yeah the Gen III should help mileage but I can buy allot of fuel for what a Gen III swap would cost..... If fuel mileage makes it more "driveable" then absolutely go for it but most of the newer car driving experience is the whole engineered package, gonna be tough to make the old E body feel like that....
Quote from: gzig5 on December 01, 2018, 05:04:47 PM
Fuel in the oil is a fuel pump or carburetor issue. Should be an easy fix for less than $500 with a carb rebuild or replacement at worst. Any hemi crate is going to be a minimum $10k investment to even hear it turn over.
How can fuel in the oil be a carb issue? I don't understand, please explain. I'm just trying to learn.
If the floats or other parts are not working correctly there can be fuel leaking through into the intake/heads and car runs very rich. If it is bad enough, the un-atomized fuel washes down the cylinder walls and makes its way into the crankcase. If you drive it like that much, the cylinder walls can be damaged from the oil being diluted and washed out. When I got my car in the spring, the carb was very messed up and needed a rebuild. There was fuel dripping out of the secondary nozzles at idle and it would pool in the floor of the intake. Didn't run worth crap and the spark plugs were all carbon fouled from running rich. While I rebuilt the carb, I changed the oil and as it came out of the pan, it smelled very strongly of gasoline.
I'd take it to someone that knows carbs and ignition first. Maybe throw a $300 Edelbrock or Holley at it to see if it corrects the issue before yanking a likely good motor out.
Could be a dead cylinder too which might be ignition/plug related. These things are a lot cheaper to fix than an engine swap.
Had it happen to me on my pick-up "360" ,Fuel pump is your issue.
Looks like it is pulled already?
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on December 02, 2018, 08:48:59 AM
Looks like it is pulled already?
Yeah the engine is pulled out.
I am taking apart the car so that I can have it media blasted.
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Hmm: Can't sell it as a good engine then IMO.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on December 02, 2018, 03:58:21 PM
Hmm: Can't sell it as a good engine then IMO.
Yeah, most guys want to see it run & go for a drive...
Quote from: gzig5 on December 02, 2018, 07:15:46 AM
If the floats or other parts are not working correctly there can be fuel leaking through into the intake/heads and car runs very rich. If it is bad enough, the un-atomized fuel washes down the cylinder walls and makes its way into the crankcase. If you drive it like that much, the cylinder walls can be damaged from the oil being diluted and washed out. When I got my car in the spring, the carb was very messed up and needed a rebuild. There was fuel dripping out of the secondary nozzles at idle and it would pool in the floor of the intake. Didn't run worth crap and the spark plugs were all carbon fouled from running rich. While I rebuilt the carb, I changed the oil and as it came out of the pan, it smelled very strongly of gasoline.
I'd take it to someone that knows carbs and ignition first. Maybe throw a $300 Edelbrock or Holley at it to see if it corrects the issue before yanking a likely good motor out.
Could be a dead cylinder too which might be ignition/plug related. These things are a lot cheaper to fix than an engine swap.
Thanks
@gzig5 (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/gzig5_1624)
Make me the third to say it's probably the fuel pump. Had it happen to my own 340 when I saw the oil idiot light come on as I stopped. Got out and pulled the dip stick and it had about 2-3 qts more fluid in the pan than it should've! Washed the oil so thin it couldn't maintain decent pressure at idle. Hope that it didn't hurt the bearings, but since you've got it out, I'd pull the pan and a couple of rods and mains and see where you're at. Now's the time! :cheers:
#4 happened to a 383 in my first challenger. fuel pump was the problem!
Quote from: cashmoneyerick on December 01, 2018, 12:19:38 PM
..... I believe the blue vin code says: 0B198015 .....
0B198015 would've originally been a 'cuda
Quote from: Katfish on December 01, 2018, 04:05:47 PM
..... Funny you mention that, I have a 518 and Fitech. The OD made a world of difference, the Fitech so-so.
I still only get 12mpg around town and 16 on the Hwy, not something I would drive everyday.
Maybe i'm asking too much, but I have a 06 Mustang GT, and would love my Challenger to drive somewhat similar.
to make the '70s generation Challenger drive/handle like an '06 Mustang GT you'd probably need twice the investment $$$ that a modern Challenger would cost
Quote from: 6bblgt on December 03, 2018, 11:23:38 AM
Quote from: cashmoneyerick on December 01, 2018, 12:19:38 PM
..... I believe the blue vin code says: 0B198015 .....
0B198015 would've originally been a 'cuda
How can you tell?
Just kinda curious.
the VIN sequence numbers were assigned in car line (B, J, V) blocks for each day's "scheduled production"
I have info on:
BH27G0B198001
BH23C0B198017
the 340'cuda would've been scheduled between these two Barracudas
can you share the engine build info stamped on the front of the block below the driver's side head?
does the engine have "X" heads on it, can you share the casting dates?
Quote from: 6bblgt on December 03, 2018, 11:47:02 AM
the VIN sequence numbers were assigned in car line (B, J, V) blocks for each day's "scheduled production"
I have info on:
BH27G0B198001
BH23C0B198017
the 340'cuda would've been scheduled between these two Barracudas
can you share the engine build info stamped on the front of the block below the driver's side head?
does the engine have "X" heads on it, can you share the casting dates?
Where would I find the casting dates ?
And it does have X heads.
Let me know if the picture is the engine build stamp.
I'm a newbie so I may get things wrong.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181204/104ea9722e8458b2f4a543ffe1013922.jpg)
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That's the side of the block not the front and the #'s will be stamped in not cast. Drives side just under the head/block junction. :cheers:
Quote from: jimynick on December 03, 2018, 06:35:20 PM
That's the side of the block not the front and the #'s will be stamped in not cast. Drives side just under the head/block junction. :cheers:
Can you show me in a picture where they would be. I can't find anything. Or maybe I'm looking in the wrong place.
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:takepicture:
this is a casting # 3418915 "T/A"-head, but the casting # 2531894 "X"-head will be similar
Quote from: 6bblgt on December 03, 2018, 09:13:34 PM
:takepicture:
So it reads
FW340F30220136
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Quote from: 6bblgt on December 03, 2018, 09:25:31 PM
this is a casting # 3418915 "T/A"-head, but the casting # 2531894 "X"-head will be similar
I can't find that on the head.
Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. Can you send a zoomed out picture ?
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Quite often it's only the last 3 #'s, not the whole string. :cheers:
Keep the 340, they are great engines.
You have stated you are new to this. IMO, be careful with your spending decisions. It's so easy to get ahead of yourself. Body and paint is very expensive, concentrate on that first. Every body/paint guy will tell you how great his work is. Many of them take short cuts that will show at some time.
Maybe you are a body guy? If not, ask around, guys with good work will tell you who they used. If you are planning on media blast and big checks are not easy to write you are in for a long term project When your paint looks good 20 years later you will be glad you did your homework. Engines come and go, paint and body is long term.
:wave:
Let me know if any of you come across a 340 with 0B184371 stamped on it.
The original 340 for my Cuda.
:takemymoney: