340 Engine

[303 Mopar]

Unless you already have deep pockets and  a big budget I'd keep that 340 and run it until you have the money in hand to do a modern hemi swap. Looking at your profile picture I'd respectfully say you have a long way to go money wise in body /paint . It's not the big ticket items that "get ya" building these cars, it's all the "little" things near the end that really add up.  My  .... get it running and driveable with what you have and plan on doing the drivetrain last.

I agree with Brad. Get your current 340 running and enjoy it as you finish the body, then you can decide to rebuild or stroke it or go Gen III. A Gen III is around $12k minimum, then you still have a lot of body/paint and the little things at the end.

[gzig5]

Fuel in the oil is a fuel pump or carburetor issue.  Should be an easy fix for less than $500 with a carb rebuild or replacement at worst.  Any hemi crate is going to be a minimum $10k investment to even hear it turn over.

[1 Wild R/T]

I have a similar dilemma,  my 340 runs great, but a Gen3 Hemi would be so much more driveable.

Please explain?  Put FI & an overdrive on your 340 or better yet a 408 & tell me what the GenIII gets you other that the wow factor?

Funny you mention that, I have a 518 and Fitech.  The OD made a world of difference, the Fitech so-so.
I still only get 12mpg around town and 16 on the Hwy, not something I would drive everyday.

Maybe i'm asking too much, but I have a 06 Mustang GT, and would love my Challenger to drive somewhat similar.

FiTech doesn't seem to help mileage much but it sure seems to improve starting & all around throttle response.... It doesn't make more power, just makes things more consistent...

Yeah the Gen III should help mileage but I can buy allot of fuel for what a Gen III swap would cost.....   If fuel mileage makes it more "driveable" then absolutely go for it but most of the newer car driving experience is the whole engineered package, gonna be tough to make the old E body feel like that....

[blown motor]

Fuel in the oil is a fuel pump or carburetor issue.  Should be an easy fix for less than $500 with a carb rebuild or replacement at worst.  Any hemi crate is going to be a minimum $10k investment to even hear it turn over.

How can fuel in the oil be a carb issue? I don't understand, please explain. I'm just trying to learn.

[gzig5]

If the floats or other parts are not working correctly there can be fuel leaking through into the intake/heads and car runs very rich.  If it is bad enough, the un-atomized fuel washes down the cylinder walls and makes its way into the crankcase.  If you drive it like that much, the cylinder walls can be damaged from the oil being diluted and washed out.  When I got my car in the spring, the carb was very messed up and needed a rebuild.  There was fuel dripping out of the secondary nozzles at idle and it would pool in the floor of the intake.  Didn't run worth crap and the spark plugs were all carbon fouled from running rich.   While I rebuilt the carb, I changed the oil and as it came out of the pan, it smelled very strongly of gasoline. 

I'd take it to someone that knows carbs and ignition first.  Maybe throw a $300 Edelbrock or Holley at it to see if it corrects the issue before yanking a likely good motor out. 
Could be a dead cylinder too which might be ignition/plug related.  These things are a lot cheaper to fix than an engine swap.

[Skid Row]

Had it happen to me on my pick-up "360" ,Fuel pump is your issue.

[RUNCHARGER]

Looks like it is pulled already?

[cashmoneyerick]

Looks like it is pulled already?

Yeah the engine is pulled out.

I am taking apart the car so that I can have it media blasted.



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[RUNCHARGER]

Hmm: Can't sell it as a good engine then IMO.

[1 Wild R/T]

Hmm: Can't sell it as a good engine then IMO.

Yeah, most guys want to see it run & go for a drive...

[blown motor]

If the floats or other parts are not working correctly there can be fuel leaking through into the intake/heads and car runs very rich.  If it is bad enough, the un-atomized fuel washes down the cylinder walls and makes its way into the crankcase.  If you drive it like that much, the cylinder walls can be damaged from the oil being diluted and washed out.  When I got my car in the spring, the carb was very messed up and needed a rebuild.  There was fuel dripping out of the secondary nozzles at idle and it would pool in the floor of the intake.  Didn't run worth crap and the spark plugs were all carbon fouled from running rich.   While I rebuilt the carb, I changed the oil and as it came out of the pan, it smelled very strongly of gasoline. 

I'd take it to someone that knows carbs and ignition first.  Maybe throw a $300 Edelbrock or Holley at it to see if it corrects the issue before yanking a likely good motor out. 
Could be a dead cylinder too which might be ignition/plug related.  These things are a lot cheaper to fix than an engine swap.

Thanks @gzig5

[jimynick]

Make me the third to say it's probably the fuel pump. Had it happen to my own 340 when I saw the oil idiot light come on as I stopped. Got out and pulled the dip stick and it had about 2-3 qts more fluid in the pan than it should've! Washed the oil so thin it couldn't maintain decent pressure at idle. Hope that it didn't hurt the bearings, but since you've got it out, I'd pull the pan and a couple of rods and mains and see where you're at. Now's the time! 

[JS29]

#4 happened to a 383 in my first challenger. fuel pump was the problem! 

[6bblgt]

..... I believe the blue vin code says: 0B198015 .....

0B198015 would've originally been a 'cuda

[6bblgt]

..... Funny you mention that, I have a 518 and Fitech.  The OD made a world of difference, the Fitech so-so.
I still only get 12mpg around town and 16 on the Hwy, not something I would drive everyday.

Maybe i'm asking too much, but I have a 06 Mustang GT, and would love my Challenger to drive somewhat similar.

to make the '70s generation Challenger drive/handle like an '06 Mustang GT you'd probably need twice the investment $$$ that a modern Challenger would cost