I thought I'd share this setup for those of you running the QA1 crossmembers and front swaybars..
Instagram user: Derwud showed me his setup...
I thought it sat WAY too low.... especially at the zerk fitting setup on my Hotchkis setup..
Using a 1" X 1" x 4.75" solid aluminum block drilled to flip n fit the swaybar to go above the crossmember..
I got lucky and it was anodized gold and matched up with my QA1 Dynamic strut rods..
Cut sides to the back ;)
It puts the swaybar at roughly the same point it would be in if you used a stock K frame..
The swaybar still goes downward towards the control arms..
I'll let the pictures do the talking..
I'll buy two of those off you at Mopars in the Park next year....please.
Quote from: dodj on September 14, 2020, 07:51:00 PM
I'll buy two of those off you at Mopars in the Park next year....please.
This was a pain in the ass for me..
I hand cut these.
I didn't have the proper equipment to make these.. :headbang:
Is the 1" height of the block perfect or could it be a little shorter or taller? Want to make sure the sway bar is as close as possible to cross member without touching it.
Quote from: Shane Kelley on September 18, 2020, 07:19:07 AM
Is the 1" height of the block perfect or could it be a little shorter or taller? Want to make sure the sway bar is as close as possible to cross member without touching it.
I'd call it perfect, any smaller/closer and it could be too close..
You can stick a business card tri folded between the swaybar and crossmember..
This is based on the bushing/bracket that came with my Hotchkis swaybar..
Tagging this because I need to do this myself shortly.
I got mine finished as well. I used billet aluminum and drilled and tapped both sides so I could use some 12 point stainless ARP bolts. Basically because I have used them on this car everywhere already. I changed the hole locations from one side to the other so there were plenty of threads for the bolts to grab. I also went with the Hotchkis billet sway bar brackets. I also had to really shorten up the end links so the bar would sit relatively level. I'm happy with the results.
If QA1 flipped the sway bar brackets over, would that eliminate the need for the riser blocks?
Quote from: Skdmark on October 15, 2021, 07:01:32 AM
If QA1 flipped the sway bar brackets over, would that eliminate the need for the riser blocks?
Sure would.
Guess I better go look and see where I can buy 1" square aluminium bar. I know where I can get 22 foot pieces, but I'd rather only pick up what I need.
There are several places you can buy online. I purchased a 1' section of 1" square 7075 aluminum for $20 shipped off of eBay.
And I just spent $130 on hotchkiss billet swaybar brackets that I didn't know I needed until I saw how cool they looked. ;)
I will cut the aluminum bar to length, drill through and use nuts and bolts to attach. I'll have a friend cerakote them black.
Quote from: ledphoot on October 15, 2021, 07:41:22 AM
There are several places you can buy online. I purchased a 1' section of 1" square 7075 aluminum for $20 shipped off of eBay.
And I just spent $130 on hotchkiss billet swaybar brackets that I didn't know I needed until I saw how cool they looked. ;)
I will cut the aluminum bar to length, drill through and use nuts and bolts to attach. I'll have a friend cerakote them black.
Thanks ledphoot :bigthumb:
Ya, those billet brackets do look a tad better than the usual pipe straps.....
But they are under the car.... :dunno:
Oh I hear you on them being under the car.. Shane Kelley's post caught me early in the morning and next thing I know my low impulse control had me spending money on 'em.. LoL
If you google search 1" Square 7075 aluminum bar stock you will find a lot of options to purchase, even cut to length etc. I stumbled on the 1' piece for $20 shipped and figured it'd only take a few minutes to cut it to length myself. I'd like to anodize it, but it'll be easier to just cerakote it and call it good.
Hey Shane, how long is the sleeve between your end link bushings? Looks like ~1"... And how long is your end link bolt overall?
Thanks for sharing, these posts are extremely helpful.
I will try and check tonight and get you the bolt and spacer length.
Before you drill all the way through your block. Make sure you are able to get a nut on that Hotchkis bracket. It's really tight in the there and they are designed to use allen head bolts that are supplied with the brackets. I was able to use small 5/16 head ARP stainless with a 3/8 thread.
Thank you and thanks for the heads up. I will order whatever fastener I need from Fastener Warehouse, I'll look at what comes with that Hotchkiss bracket and get the same style in the proper length.
Mcmaster-Carr has raw stock, fasteners, and a whole lot more at reasonable prices for one stop shopping.
https://www.mcmaster.com/
Quote from: HP2 on October 18, 2021, 10:51:33 AM
Mcmaster-Carr has raw stock, fasteners, and a whole lot more at reasonable prices for one stop shopping.
https://www.mcmaster.com/
Awesome! Thanks for sharing this resource, much appreciated.
Quote from: ledphoot on October 15, 2021, 07:41:22 AM
7075 aluminum for $20 shipped off of eBay.
Without being a metallurgist, how do you know which alloy numbers are ones you want? :dunno:
Links have a 1' spacer and the bolts are 5" x 3/8.
Quote from: dodj on October 20, 2021, 05:41:03 AM
Quote from: ledphoot on October 15, 2021, 07:41:22 AM
7075 aluminum for $20 shipped off of eBay.
Without being a metallurgist, how do you know which alloy numbers are ones you want? :dunno:
Not sure how others arrived at their decision but the McMaster link I provided does give an overview of the various materials they sell and the applications they are used in and suited for.
Quote from: Shane Kelley on October 20, 2021, 05:53:24 AM
Links have a 1' spacer and the bolts are 5" x 3/8.
Beautiful THANK YOU.. :) You guys have made this so much easier for me I owe you some beer :) :drinkingbud:
Quote from: HP2 on October 20, 2021, 05:57:53 AM
Not sure how others arrived at their decision but the McMaster link I provided does give an overview of the various materials they sell and the applications they are used in and suited for.
Thanks HP2, I missed that post. Very informative site. :bigthumb:
Quote from: dodj on October 20, 2021, 05:41:03 AM
Quote from: ledphoot on October 15, 2021, 07:41:22 AM
7075 aluminum for $20 shipped off of eBay.
Without being a metallurgist, how do you know which alloy numbers are ones you want? :dunno:
I chose 7075 because as far as aluminum goes it extremely tough / durable and corrosion resistant, especially if you have it type 3 anodized or cerakoted. I have used 7075 to make things that take much more abuse than this sway bar spacer will ever see. You could probably use 6061 for this application, but I chose to overdo it as usual.
I used the OEM fitment end links for the bar and with the bar flipped on the crossmember, it sits perfectly level with the ground..
As for what grade of aluminum I used, it was a metrology true surface block I had kicking around from the machine shop days.
I cut the block so that the anodized gold looked good and matched the QA1 strut rods.. :)
Drill press with lots of cutting oil and a sharp bit.. Wasn't fun, but I only had to make 2 of them :)
I figured I'd share this mod because I'm sure I wasn't the only fellah thinking these swaybars sit WAY too close to the ground..
Now the lowest part is just the Hooker Pro Comps ;)
Quote from: Chris D. on October 21, 2021, 07:30:24 PM
I used the OEM fitment end links for the bar and with the bar flipped on the crossmember, it sits perfectly level with the ground..
As for what grade of aluminum I used, it was a metrology true surface block I had kicking around from the machine shop days.
I cut the block so that the anodized gold looked good and matched the QA1 strut rods.. :)
Drill press with lots of cutting oil and a sharp bit.. Wasn't fun, but I only had to make 2 of them :)
I figured I'd share this mod because I'm sure I wasn't the only fellah thinking these swaybars sit WAY too close to the ground..
Now the lowest part is just the Hooker Pro Comps ;)
No doubt, gaining an extra couple inches of clearance is very much appreciated. No point building a nice ride only to bang things up or damage them because the roads / driveways / speed bumps are a bunch of crap around here.
I got my 7075 in the mail today... Hopefully I will have some time to work on this over the weekend.
Are you making a few of these?
At the time, I didn't have any sxcess material, I sure got asked a lot to make these for others..
Limited market, but every Mopar, A, B, E has this same situation.
Quote from: ledphoot on October 21, 2021, 09:28:42 PM
Quote from: Chris D. on October 21, 2021, 07:30:24 PM
I used the OEM fitment end links for the bar and with the bar flipped on the crossmember, it sits perfectly level with the ground..
As for what grade of aluminum I used, it was a metrology true surface block I had kicking around from the machine shop days.
I cut the block so that the anodized gold looked good and matched the QA1 strut rods.. :)
Drill press with lots of cutting oil and a sharp bit.. Wasn't fun, but I only had to make 2 of them :)
I figured I'd share this mod because I'm sure I wasn't the only fellah thinking these swaybars sit WAY too close to the ground..
Now the lowest part is just the Hooker Pro Comps ;)
No doubt, gaining an extra couple inches of clearance is very much appreciated. No point building a nice ride only to bang things up or damage them because the roads / driveways / speed bumps are a bunch of crap around here.
I got my 7075 in the mail today... Hopefully I will have some time to work on this over the weekend.
I wasn't planning on it, I bought a single foot of 7075 so I could technically make three of the spacers. I am terribly slow at making this kind of stuff and OCD as hell. Let's see how hard it is to drill through this 7075 on my drill press. I may be able to make some more but I am not making any promises.
I think someone should let QA1 know so that they can include the blocks for mounting the sway bar the correct way. Just does not look right hanging so low.
Quote from: 7212Mopar on November 06, 2021, 09:15:55 AM
I think someone should let QA1 know so that they can include the blocks for mounting the sway bar the correct way. Just does not look right hanging so low.
Sent them Pictures, nothing