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Swaybar mod for QA1 Crossmember equipped vehicles..

Started by FSHTAIL, September 14, 2020, 07:42:09 PM

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FSHTAIL

I thought I'd share this setup for those of you running the QA1 crossmembers and front swaybars.. 
Instagram user: Derwud showed me his setup... 

I thought it sat WAY too low....   especially at the zerk fitting setup on my Hotchkis setup.. 

Using a 1" X 1" x 4.75" solid aluminum block drilled to flip n fit the swaybar to go above the crossmember..   
I got lucky and it was anodized gold and matched up with my QA1 Dynamic strut rods..   
Cut sides to the back   ;)

It puts the swaybar at roughly the same point it would be in if you used a stock K frame.. 
The swaybar still goes downward towards the control arms..   

I'll let the pictures do the talking..   

1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)

dodj

I'll buy two of those off you at Mopars in the Park next year....please.
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

FSHTAIL

Quote from: dodj on September 14, 2020, 07:51:00 PM
I'll buy two of those off you at Mopars in the Park next year....please.

This was a pain in the ass for me..     
I hand cut these.       

I didn't have the proper equipment to make these..      :headbang:     
1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)


Shane Kelley

Is the 1" height of the block perfect or could it be a little shorter or taller? Want to make sure the sway bar is as close as possible to cross member without touching it.

FSHTAIL

Quote from: Shane Kelley on September 18, 2020, 07:19:07 AM
Is the 1" height of the block perfect or could it be a little shorter or taller? Want to make sure the sway bar is as close as possible to cross member without touching it.

I'd call it perfect, any smaller/closer and it could be too close..   

You can stick a business card tri folded between the swaybar and crossmember..

This is based on the bushing/bracket that came with my Hotchkis swaybar.. 
1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)

ledphoot

Tagging this because I need to do this myself shortly.

Shane Kelley

I got mine finished as well. I used billet aluminum and drilled and tapped both sides so I could use some 12 point stainless ARP bolts. Basically because I have used them on this car everywhere already. I changed the hole locations from one side to the other so there were plenty of threads for the bolts to grab. I also went with the Hotchkis billet sway bar brackets. I also had to really shorten up the end links so the bar would sit relatively level.   I'm happy with the results.


Skdmark

If QA1 flipped the sway bar brackets over, would that eliminate the need for the riser blocks?
You are not entitled to your opinion. You are entitled to your informed opinion. No one is entitled to be ignorant.
-Harlan Ellison

(O OI====II====IO O)    (O O{]{]{] ][ [}[}[}O O)
:stayinlane:

dodj

Quote from: Skdmark on October 15, 2021, 07:01:32 AM
If QA1 flipped the sway bar brackets over, would that eliminate the need for the riser blocks?
Sure would.
Guess I better go look and see where I can buy 1" square aluminium bar. I know where I can get 22 foot pieces, but I'd rather only pick up what I need.
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

ledphoot

There are several places you can buy online. I purchased a 1' section of 1" square 7075 aluminum for $20 shipped off of eBay.

And I just spent $130 on hotchkiss billet swaybar brackets that I didn't know I needed until I saw how cool they looked. ;)

I will cut the aluminum bar to length, drill through and use nuts and bolts to attach. I'll have a friend cerakote  them black.

dodj

Quote from: ledphoot on October 15, 2021, 07:41:22 AM
There are several places you can buy online. I purchased a 1' section of 1" square 7075 aluminum for $20 shipped off of eBay.

And I just spent $130 on hotchkiss billet swaybar brackets that I didn't know I needed until I saw how cool they looked. ;)

I will cut the aluminum bar to length, drill through and use nuts and bolts to attach. I'll have a friend cerakote  them black.
Thanks ledphoot  :bigthumb:
Ya, those billet brackets do look a tad better than the usual pipe straps.....

But they are under the car.... :dunno:
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill


ledphoot

Oh I hear you on them being under the car.. Shane Kelley's post caught me early in the morning and next thing I know my low impulse control had me spending money on 'em.. LoL


If you google search 1" Square 7075 aluminum bar stock you will find a lot of options to purchase, even cut to length etc. I stumbled on the 1' piece for $20 shipped and figured it'd only take a few minutes to cut it to length myself. I'd like to anodize it, but it'll be easier to just cerakote it and call it good.

ledphoot

Hey Shane, how long is the sleeve between your end link bushings? Looks like ~1"... And how long is your end link bolt overall?

Thanks for sharing, these posts are extremely helpful.

Shane Kelley

I will try and check tonight and get you the bolt and spacer length.

Before you drill all the way through your block. Make sure you are able to get a nut on that Hotchkis bracket. It's really tight in the there and they are designed to use allen head bolts that are supplied with the brackets. I was able to use small 5/16 head ARP stainless with a 3/8 thread.

ledphoot

Thank you and thanks for the heads up. I will order whatever fastener I need from Fastener Warehouse, I'll look at what comes with that Hotchkiss bracket and get the same style in the proper length.