For those with factory trunk lids and factory quarters, how big are your gaps on the sides?
I thought I had my quarters in a good position, but the gaps are still just too darned wide when I test fit the lid.
My car is a Challenger, but I'll gladly welcome measurements from Barracudas too.
Doesn't the tail panel and Dutchman panel set the spacing? Can't really change where the quarter panel goes there. Unless I'm missing something.
Factory horrible on my 74.
Less than 3/16 to at least 3/8. Probably more.
Issue is not being consistent. So adjustments aren't really possible.
Dutchman panel is even and probably 5/16.
Quote from: Rich G. on January 14, 2021, 04:13:26 PM
Doesn't the tail panel and Dutchman panel set the spacing? Can't really change where the quarter panel goes there. Unless I'm missing something.
You're not missing anything. You're absolutely right and if the upper trunk panel is oem and you're replacing 1/4's and the gaps don't please you, you have 2 options 1: live with it and realize that the oem panel fits in these cars were terrible from day one, 2: weld up the edges of the deck lid to get where you think you should be. Option 3 was to get out the deck lid stretcher, but it's in the shop for repairs. Good luck! :cheers:
factory trunk. new quarters Dutchman .. large clamps and careful work.. amd metal matching up perfect with factory trunk lid! 0 welding for gaps ! 3/16" to 1/4"
1970 Barracuda with all original sheet metal.
3/16" on the sides and 1/4" at the top.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU to those who contributed, especially the pictures showing how they look on the car! :thankyou:
I know this post is over a year old, but i was curious of the outcome, and what your thoughts are of getting the gaps closer. I welded in a new tail panel, Dutchman panel, and driver side quarter panel. I thought i had the gaps close, but it turned into a mess. Quarter is to far in on the tail panel. I cut it lose and pulled it out as much as i could, but i still cant get it out for enough. Has anyone ever cut the top of your quarter and pried it outward and welded in? I looked at cutting the edges on the deck lid and welding the edges, but I'm afraid to take much off the edge, because of making it to narrow for the trim edge peice.
when i did my trunk floor, tail lite pnl, and drivers 1/4 pnl i set my deck lid gaps at paint stick and made sure they matched the full length
I replaced my trunk lid with an AMD part and it didn't match for S#!T. The gaps were way off as much as 3/8"and the curvature wasn't even close to the quarter panels or the crown in the center of the trunk. I welded rod on and gaped the joints and bent the hood to match the quarters and the crown at the dutch mans panel. I got the gaps to match the doors and hood at 3/16".
Wow, you got those gaps looking great. My gaps are too narrow on the sides and probably 1/2 or so wide in the back.
:iagree:
Here are a few shots of my 1970 Challenger with all original body panels. Just measured the gaps all around the trunk lid - 7/32 to 1/4 on average. More toward the 7/32 size.
Thanks man. I am probably way to anal on things like this but I always hate when I finish something I say to myself I could have done that a little better.
You're not anal, you're just fussy and that's not a bad thing. Just be aware that if you finangle the deck lid gaps into a 1/4' position, then you're setting a precedent for the doors, fenders and hood panels and you may not want to go there based on the oem fits. Just a heads up and it's your car and your call. :cheers:
Quote from: Jsand73440 on January 30, 2022, 03:46:03 PM
I know this post is over a year old, but i was curious of the outcome, and what your thoughts are of getting the gaps closer. I welded in a new tail panel, Dutchman panel, and driver side quarter panel. I thought i had the gaps close, but it turned into a mess. Quarter is to far in on the tail panel. I cut it lose and pulled it out as much as i could, but i still cant get it out for enough. Has anyone ever cut the top of your quarter and pried it outward and welded in? I looked at cutting the edges on the deck lid and welding the edges, but I'm afraid to take much off the edge, because of making it to narrow for the trim edge peice.
It sounds like my problem is/was opposite of yours, gaps too wide vs too narrow. I probably had to test fit and adjust each quarter 40 TIMES per side before I was satisfied. I also slit every flange where there was a formed corner to relieve any tension on the quarter, allowing it to flex more easily into the position I wanted. Taping the trim pieces to the trunk and quarters was pretty useful for reference too. My (Goodmark?) dutchman panel needed to be narrowed as well.
I got you. The trunk, hood and side door gaps are at 3/16" while the door bottoms are closer to 3/8" for body flex above the rocker panel. I am retired and the time I spend is like therapy so no rush here. This is probably my last car so I want to get it right.
Your car, your call, but I wouldn't try to achieve 3/16" panel gaps on one of these cars. As you note, the reason the door gap is what it is, is because sans subframe connectors and torque boxes, these cars are somewhat flexi flyers. Just my :alan2cents:
Already done. Frame Connectors, torque boxes, Complete US Cartool frame strengthening kit installed. I plan to install cross support (otherwise called Monte Carlo Bars by Ford) from firewall to the fender above the shock towers and possibly a short support to the radiator support. The shelf over the wiper motor has already been fitted with a complete 1/4" steel backer underneath welded all the way around as well as a 1'4 plate boss welded on the fender above the shock towers. I have a complete Hotchkiss front end and the same will be going in the rear. She is plenty stout. This a restomod not a stock original build.
70 Cuda, factory quarters and trunk lid: 3/16" to 1/4" along the sides, 3/8" between front of truck lid and dutchman panel.
Quote from: rhamson on February 04, 2022, 11:21:21 AM
Already done. Frame Connectors, torque boxes, Complete US Cartool frame strengthening kit installed. I plan to install cross support (otherwise called Monte Carlo Bars by Ford) from firewall to the fender above the shock towers and possibly a short support to the radiator support. The shelf over the wiper motor has already been fitted with a complete 1/4" steel backer underneath welded all the way around as well as a 1'4 plate boss welded on the fender above the shock towers. I have a complete Hotchkiss front end and the same will be going in the rear. She is plenty stout. This a restomod not a stock original build.
Awesome! Go for it then. :bigthumb:
New quarters and Dutchman panel. Original trunk lid and rear panel. Took some massaging and adding metal to get the gaps right.
I would have liked to add the metal to the quarter panel as that but with the Challenger there is trim sized to fit the trunk and quarter panels you can't change.
I had to butcher my tail panel to get my welds drilled out from the quarter panel. I bought a new AMD deck li, and it fits differently than my old original, that likely had been modified to fit the new quarters. I was able to add weld on to the deck lid edge on the edges nearest the hinge, and cut and pull out the quarter a fraction by the tail panel in order to get the gaps close. What a mess, but its done and the gaps sure look a lot better. I still have a wide gap along the edge of the deck lid that is up against the Dutchman panel.
Would it be best to add weld along the edge or lay a rod along the edge and weld on? Gap is probably 3/8 or slightly more. It's even, just wide.
No pic but my factory one is from 3/6 to 3/8 on one side.
Horrid factory finish.
Quote from: Jsand73440 on February 08, 2022, 05:48:16 PM
I had to butcher my tail panel to get my welds drilled out from the quarter panel. I bought a new AMD deck li, and it fits differently than my old original, that likely had been modified to fit the new quarters. I was able to add weld on to the deck lid edge on the edges nearest the hinge, and cut and pull out the quarter a fraction by the tail panel in order to get the gaps close. What a mess, but its done and the gaps sure look a lot better. I still have a wide gap along the edge of the deck lid that is up against the Dutchman panel.
Would it be best to add weld along the edge or lay a rod along the edge and weld on? Gap is probably 3/8 or slightly more. It's even, just wide.
I added everything to the deck lid including the dutchmans gap. If you have a Challenger make sure your gaps on the sides allow for the trim pieces that attach to the deck lid and quarter panels.
Quote from: YellowThumper on February 08, 2022, 07:55:26 PM
No pic but my factory one is from 3/6 to 3/8 on one side.
Horrid factory finish.
I had the same problem and added welding rod to even the gaps up with my AMD replacement deck lid which fit like the original.
Agreed.
I checked my trim on the lid and the quarter panels. That is why i had to cut my quarter and tail panel loose, because I didn't dare cut anything off the deck lid, or my trim peice would be too wide/long. The other side i am having to use weld along the edge and then the Dutch man panel gap between the deck lid.
Is there any risk to getting any heat wave going across the lid surface, by welding rod on the back edge? I would assume that you would have to weld on the top as well as underneath to fill in the gap.
Or would it better just to weld along the edge until you get enough built along it?
Quote from: Jsand73440 on February 09, 2022, 03:43:49 PM
I checked my trim on the lid and the quarter panels. That is why i had to cut my quarter and tail panel loose, because I didn't dare cut anything off the deck lid, or my trim peice would be too wide/long. The other side i am having to use weld along the edge and then the Dutch man panel gap between the deck lid.
Is there any risk to getting any heat wave going across the lid surface, by welding rod on the back edge? I would assume that you would have to weld on the top as well as underneath to fill in the gap.
Or would it better just to weld along the edge until you get enough built along it?
Don't forget to check the tail light housing to make sure it fits as well before making it permanent. I welded rod onto mine so it would be more even and less holes from trying to fill in the welded beads of wire. I put a wet cloth above where I was welding and also spot welded about six inches apart and then went back to the beginning and welded right next to the last bead. The heat is the biggest problem and respect it as I have destroyed other panels before. I also welded underneath so it would be a solid lip there as well.
Great ideas. I want to have a solid lip as well, so that if the lid gets slammed, I don't have some filler fall out into the trunk.