Main Menu

How wide are your trunk lid gaps?

Started by Flatdad, January 14, 2021, 11:18:52 AM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

rhamson

I got you. The trunk, hood and side door gaps are at 3/16" while the door bottoms are closer to 3/8" for body flex above the rocker panel. I am retired and the time I spend is like therapy so no rush here. This is probably my last car so I want to get it right.

jimynick

Your car, your call, but I wouldn't try to achieve 3/16" panel gaps on one of these cars. As you note, the reason the door gap is what it is, is because sans subframe connectors and torque boxes, these cars are somewhat flexi flyers. Just my  :alan2cents:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"

rhamson

Already done. Frame Connectors, torque boxes, Complete US Cartool frame strengthening kit installed. I plan to install cross support (otherwise called Monte Carlo Bars by Ford) from firewall to the fender above the shock towers and possibly a short support to the radiator support. The shelf over the wiper motor has already been fitted with a complete 1/4" steel backer underneath welded all the way around as well as a 1'4 plate boss welded on the fender above the shock towers. I have a complete Hotchkiss front end and the same will be going in the rear. She is plenty stout. This a restomod not a stock original build.


DeathProofCuda

70 Cuda, factory quarters and trunk lid:  3/16" to 1/4" along the sides, 3/8" between front of truck lid and dutchman panel.

jimynick

Quote from: rhamson on February 04, 2022, 11:21:21 AM
Already done. Frame Connectors, torque boxes, Complete US Cartool frame strengthening kit installed. I plan to install cross support (otherwise called Monte Carlo Bars by Ford) from firewall to the fender above the shock towers and possibly a short support to the radiator support. The shelf over the wiper motor has already been fitted with a complete 1/4" steel backer underneath welded all the way around as well as a 1'4 plate boss welded on the fender above the shock towers. I have a complete Hotchkiss front end and the same will be going in the rear. She is plenty stout. This a restomod not a stock original build.

Awesome! Go for it then. :bigthumb:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"

usraptor

New quarters and Dutchman panel.  Original trunk lid and rear panel.  Took some massaging and adding metal to get the gaps right.

rhamson

I would have liked to add the metal to the quarter panel as that but with the Challenger there is trim sized to fit the trunk and quarter panels you can't change.


Jsand73440

I had to butcher my tail panel to get my welds drilled out from the quarter panel. I bought a new AMD deck li, and it fits differently than my old original, that likely had been modified to fit the new quarters. I was able to add weld on to the deck lid edge on the edges nearest the hinge, and cut and pull out the quarter a fraction by the tail panel in order to get the gaps close. What a mess, but its done and the gaps sure look a lot better. I still have a wide gap along the edge of the deck lid that is up against the Dutchman panel.
Would it be best to add weld along the edge or lay a rod along the edge and weld on? Gap is probably 3/8 or slightly more. It's even, just wide.

YellowThumper

No pic but my factory one is from 3/6 to 3/8 on one side.
Horrid factory finish.
Life is to be viewed thru the windshield. Not rear view mirror.
You are the only one in charge of your destiny.

Mike.

rhamson

Quote from: Jsand73440 on February 08, 2022, 05:48:16 PM
I had to butcher my tail panel to get my welds drilled out from the quarter panel. I bought a new AMD deck li, and it fits differently than my old original, that likely had been modified to fit the new quarters. I was able to add weld on to the deck lid edge on the edges nearest the hinge, and cut and pull out the quarter a fraction by the tail panel in order to get the gaps close. What a mess, but its done and the gaps sure look a lot better. I still have a wide gap along the edge of the deck lid that is up against the Dutchman panel.
Would it be best to add weld along the edge or lay a rod along the edge and weld on? Gap is probably 3/8 or slightly more. It's even, just wide.
I added everything to the deck lid including the dutchmans gap. If you have a Challenger make sure your gaps on the sides allow for the trim pieces that attach to the deck lid and quarter panels.

rhamson

Quote from: YellowThumper on February 08, 2022, 07:55:26 PM
No pic but my factory one is from 3/6 to 3/8 on one side.
Horrid factory finish.
I had the same problem and added welding rod to even the gaps up with my AMD replacement deck lid which fit like the original.


Ramman


Jsand73440

I checked my trim on the lid and the quarter panels. That is why i had to cut my quarter and tail panel loose, because I didn't dare cut anything off the deck lid, or my trim peice would be too wide/long. The other side i am having to use weld along the edge and then the Dutch man panel gap between the deck lid.

Is there any risk to getting any heat wave going across the lid surface, by welding rod on the back edge? I would assume that you would have to weld on the top as well as underneath to fill in the gap.
Or would it better just to weld along the edge until you get enough built along it?

rhamson

Quote from: Jsand73440 on February 09, 2022, 03:43:49 PM
I checked my trim on the lid and the quarter panels. That is why i had to cut my quarter and tail panel loose, because I didn't dare cut anything off the deck lid, or my trim peice would be too wide/long. The other side i am having to use weld along the edge and then the Dutch man panel gap between the deck lid.

Is there any risk to getting any heat wave going across the lid surface, by welding rod on the back edge? I would assume that you would have to weld on the top as well as underneath to fill in the gap.
Or would it better just to weld along the edge until you get enough built along it?
Don't forget to check the tail light housing to make sure it fits as well before making it permanent. I welded rod onto mine so it would be more even and less holes from trying to fill in the welded beads of wire. I put a wet cloth above where I was welding and also spot welded about six inches apart and then went back to the beginning and welded right next to the last bead. The heat is the biggest problem and respect it as I have destroyed other panels before. I also welded underneath so it would be a solid lip there as well.

Jsand73440

Great ideas. I want to have a solid lip as well, so that if the lid gets slammed, I don't have some filler fall out into the trunk.