E-Bodies.org Cuda Challenger Forum

Well I figured it was time to start a build thread.

1970 AAR Limelight Cuda 4spd - Bought 4/17/1970 at Pigati Chrysler in Vacaville California.

Inherited when Uncle passed.  Screen name to honer him as he was a Fireman, hence the FIAARMN! In the process verifying if the original block is in the vehicle. Back in the mid 70's it was converted to manual linkage set up for the carburetors.

Parked in 1989 and re-painted in 1994 ish.....and still sat until , to his knowledge last started in 2003 ran in 2004/2005... then parked 2006, which is the last year it was registered by the sticker on the plate and from what I gather from talking to a friend of his.

Car arrived back to Us with the center carb missing, but pretty complete. Car came with new tires and the following: So far until more boxes of parts arrive)

1) New front window chrome trim - Boxed
2) New Door Panels
3) New door weather striping
4) New black head light piece
5) New misc dash knobs

I know the intake will arrive soon and boxes of other parts, so we will see what we find

I did find the original sell papers, and to whom sold it, dealers name, sales persons name and new owner. Original manual and other paper work I will post later. Factory hitch instructions, some warranty stuff and misc papers

Car appears to been getting ready to start again. Upon inspection fairly new drive belt, fuel filter, oil filter, coolant is fresh and green and oil seems fine.  I do need a battery and center carb to get started.

Plan is to go through all the things I need to address to get it ready to run, rebuild carbs and manually bore scope the intake and cyl before I fire it up. Then start on the interior, putting on all the parts it came with and making it a cruising/driving project...... enjoy it

Pics when it arrived and after a washing

Had to take everything out of the truck, and iner... was filled with wet urine from mice and mice turd all in the truck and carpet. Sat in Idaho in a garage for a year while the estate of Uncle was settled.

Killed ice that made the transport trip from Idaho to California.

Vacuumed the entire carper, removed the rear seats and panels, disinfected the trunk.... did a quick clean job to eliminate the smell, Will need much ore attention. Will need new carpet.....

mice took backing from the back rest and butt part of the rear seat to make homes in the trunk. Will need to inspect it really close later.

So far so good. As i stated in another thread, More than likely the heater box will be full from rodent invasion.  :alan2cents:

Ok all, I snapped a bunch of pictures, please please please comment if you see or notice anything that stands out, is original, is not and so on. I am literally learning about  these cars and this car as I go day by day and all the advice or information will be appreciated and absorbed

For sure 100% car is repainted, seems the engine bay as well...... some point it was probably a attempt at a restoration, but not a full one The good news is there are a lot of original parts on the car......... 

More.....
I am being told the seats are original as they are and the headliner, but I am not positive.

you will see over spray on the under carriage and some in the engine bay area. Also, some of the areas where parts are connected tot he firewall show some pint, not sure if that is factory or not.

Question

I have the window chrome, new pieces and the original.... is there a seal that goes under before they are put back on?

couple more before I get a bunch more today

100% for sure the headliner has been replaced, and it looks like all the metal trim has been repainted white as well. The shoulder belts are missing and there no hole in the headliner for them, that's how I determined the headliner has been replaced...looks like a decent install though, nice and tight... :bigthumb:  I would be REALLY surprised if the seats have not been recovered and the white interior panels have not been painted or dyed (unless those are the new ones you mentioned)

Quote from: anlauto on April 24, 2020, 08:54:10 AM
100% for sure the headliner has been replaced, and it looks like all the metal trim has been repainted white as well. The shoulder belts are missing and there no hole in the headliner for them, that's how I determined the headliner has been replaced...looks like a decent install though, nice and tight... :bigthumb:  I would be REALLY surprised if the seats have not been recovered and the white interior panels have not been painted or dyed (unless those are the new ones you mentioned)

Good to know, thank you. No the replacement panels, new are in the trunk wrapped in plastic.  The ones on the door and one taken off to get the driver window up seems original. i will post pics of the one taken off

So glad for you guys and this site........ so informative.....

What an amazing inheritance. I bet your uncle is proud that you are getting back on the road. 

Very nice!
 
(Quote)
Ok all, I snapped a bunch of pictures, please please please comment if you see or notice anything that stands out, is original, is not and so on. I am literally learning about  these cars and this car as I go day by day and all the advice or information will be appreciated and absorbed.


The carbs are gm style carbs, they have the fuel inlets on the drivers side, they should be on the passenger side. The carb numbers should be R4789 Front, R4790 Rear, R 4791 Center 4 speed, and R 4792 Auto.The vacuum diaphragms are missing on the secondary carbs, electric solenoid,secondary linkage is missing,and wrong fuel lines. Also the master cylinder has been replaced with a different master cylinder.

                                                                               Jeff

Wow, what an awesome car.  Cant think of a cooler car.   :bradsthumb:

Yup...I think you might be in the market for three carbs to make it right again. I believe new ones (same but incorrect numbers) are still available through Chrysler and members here get a discount from Roseville Moparts  :twothumbsup:

It looks like what was on there was the 4782 and 4783 carbs. They were a popular setup to replace the vacuum carbs and were even available at the Chrysler dealer thru Hustle Stuff for awhile. All 3 carbs had accelerator pumps on them and the throttle response was pretty unequaled once you got them dialed in.
If it was my car, yeah I'd look for original vacuum ones as this car deserves them.

The windshield doesn't have a rubber gasket. It looks like it is stuck in there right now. Are all the trim clips around the perimeter to hold the trim on?

It's an aftermarket windshield and it looks like someone didn't put new clips in place at the same time...that's unfortunate  :alan2cents:

 Very nice car. Please remember to replace the Fram oil filter and plastic fuel filter before running it. I've never liked the plastic fuel filters as they can fail and cause a catastrophe. The oil filter is another issue. It looks like it has been switched to electronic ignition. More reliable and less headache but an obvious change. Again, very nice car. Enjoy it.
Terry

Was wondering about the clips my self! The only thing that could make that car any better in my opinion, a rim blow steering wheel. That car is awesome, My complements!  :cheers: 

What does the correct master cylinder look like? If it should have a round front then I have one for sale.

Correct master cylinder would be the 'holy grail" 171 master (flat front)  :bigmoney:

Thank you all for the wealth of information.   Would it be difficult to swap back to the vacuum set up and carbs, or is it easier (for now) to find a center carb and rebuild the others and set it up the way it is set up now?

I am interested in the process and set up difficulty if I buy a set of 3, vacuum set up carbs?

The center carb for the set-up you currently have would be different then the factory set-up. The fuel inlet is on the opposite side.
You would need to decide what your end goal is and proceed in that direction. If you want the car to be mostly original some day, then wasting money to get it running with the outboard carbs you have would be wasting money in my opinion.

If your end goal is not to worry about originality, then you can get a center carb that will work with your outboards, get them all rebuilt, make some custom fuel lines and linkage and away you go !

Years ago I did a customers car with a Beatty & Woods built 440 using the same carbs you have now, unfortunately I can't find a picture with the fuel lines and linkage in place but I remember it being a PITA...

It would probably be more difficult to find a mathing Holley 4782 manual secondary carb to match those 2. Easiest would be to just buy the correct vacuum carbs, fuel lines and connector linkage. I did a search for new carbs but it doesn't look like they are available right now. Perhaps contact Holley and see if they are going to do a run of them.

You mentioned you still have more parts coming from your Uncle, so maybe the original carbs are still around  :fingerscrossed:

Here are some pictures. This is the 171 master cylinder.

(//)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-MOPAR-340-SIX-PACK-HOLLEY-CARBS-4789-4790-4792-CHALLENGER-T-A-AAR-CUDA/174199553148?epid=851799798&hash=item288f1a3c7c:g:CgwAAOSw0Udd0Esk

Not saying they are good or bad but these are currently on Ebay....  I'd ship them straight to Harms...

And Herb's website claims to have new ones...

https://www.herbsparts.com/products.asp?cat=712

got a pic of the drive side block numbers....

3577130.TA.340,7

Vehicle Serial

BS23J0B297483

I take it I need to find the vin number on the block.... where do I look from here

Some numbers I found on the trans passenger side and some some more numbers on the passenger side block

can someone point me in the right location to crawl under or reach in and find the vin stamp location? I have looked, snapped pic in the blind and can not seem to spot it anyplace.

The vin # you are looking for is stamped into that raised pad just above where you photographed the cast in #'s. The Engine VIN # is stamped into a flat machined surface on the bottom of the engine block casting just above the oil pan rail facing the inner fender.

First go here... https://www.e-bodies.org/buying-your-first-e-body/vin-numbers/

Then Here...  https://www.e-bodies.org/buying-your-first-e-body/

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 24, 2020, 06:34:35 PM
First go here... https://www.e-bodies.org/buying-your-first-e-body/vin-numbers/

Then Here...  https://www.e-bodies.org/buying-your-first-e-body/

Wow, so informative.... :worship:

The trans vin stamp is just above the number I posted. So I wil get those tomorrow I hope

I have a good idea now about the vin stamp on the block. The cowl and rad support match.

Warranty card, check.... I think I found the build sheet in the documents, its appears to be folded in the original manual which has had some water/urine dried and the pages are not opening........ stuck so much together that it is so fragile......... can not open it


I am going to open the rear of the front seats and under them to check for a sheet tomorrow

Great news, the Vin stamp matches the vin, its the original motor!  This applies to the transmission

Found out the original black that had an issue, got a honed cylinders and pistons, put back together and installed back into the car. I was told the person who rebuilt and installed it back in the car is alive and I obtained his phone number. I am going to call and speak to him soon because he also has information on the car paint job and other stuff


I am also going to be able to go over and retrive the boxes of parts today that arrived from the estate...........

Quote from: FIAARMN on April 24, 2020, 09:08:53 PM
Warranty card, check.... I think I found the build sheet in the documents, its appears to be folded in the original manual which has had some water/urine dried and the pages are not opening........ stuck so much together that it is so fragile......... can not open it

Try steam from the kettle :alan2cents:

Quote from: anlauto on April 25, 2020, 12:43:54 PM

Quote from: FIAARMN on April 24, 2020, 09:08:53 PM
Warranty card, check.... I think I found the build sheet in the documents, its appears to be folded in the original manual which has had some water/urine dried and the pages are not opening........ stuck so much together that it is so fragile......... can not open it

Try steam from the kettle :alan2cents:

Trying to determine a way, I have been reading about getting them wet again and slowly opening and separating, but that comes with risk. I will look into the steam thing   

My sister has a steamer she uses for cleaning, That would work well. :idea:

Quote from: FIAARMN on April 25, 2020, 12:40:49 PM
Great news, the Vin stamp matches the vin, its the original motor!  This applies to the transmission

Found out the original black that had an issue, got a honed cylinders and pistons, put back together and installed back into the car. I was told the person who rebuilt and installed it back in the car is alive and I obtained his phone number. I am going to call and speak to him soon because he also has information on the car paint job and other stuff


I am also going to be able to go over and retrive the boxes of parts today that arrived from the estate...........

This story just keeps getting better.

So, was able to get some of the boxes of parts...... looking through the documents, manuals and reference books for Cuda Challenger T/A & AAR Cuda and Dodge 1970 Service Manual Dart Challenger that he had, mid way in one of the books, I found a broadcast sheet......


Feeking really lucky, I went out to the front seats, removed the backs, nothing, took a mirror looked under the front driver seat, bingo!    Another broadcast sheet!!!!


So, also was a note pad detailing everything with dates from when he bought it, parts and work done to it, notes and information with mileage entries.....

Last entry with a date, was 34,900 miles.

Odometer reads 36,142 miles..... pretty confident I can say this car has these original miles!!!!


Also found notes why the car was painted....... it was parked outside, under a tree that dropped sap and other pollen...... 1/2 the day in the sun.... paint got extremely faded and sap all over, so it was painted, motor removed when done...... door jams done..... maybe the trunk...

Also, a year after it was bought, there was an issue with the motor, it was pulled and another T/A Cuda motor from another AAR was installed and bought from a mechanic at the dealer. After many  years, that motor was removed and and the original was installed back in the car. Original motor was stored in the house as a complete motor, heads, exhaust manifolds and intake. Hard to understand it, but it appears the cylinders where honed, new pistons installed and motor back together and in the car. Motor replaces at 27,000 miles from what I can tell

Build sheet from under the seat is pic #3

Bottom sheet is for your car anyway. I'll bet someone is looking for the top sheet too.

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on April 25, 2020, 08:43:32 PM
Bottom sheet is for your car anyway. I'll bet someone is looking for the top sheet too.

I would love to be able to get that build sheet to someone if they have the original car to it

Quote from: FIAARMN on April 25, 2020, 08:48:02 PM

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on April 25, 2020, 08:43:32 PM
Bottom sheet is for your car anyway. I'll bet someone is looking for the top sheet too.

I would love to be able to get that build sheet to someone if they have the original car to it

I just Google searched the VIN, no hits...

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 25, 2020, 09:22:50 PM

Quote from: FIAARMN on April 25, 2020, 08:48:02 PM

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on April 25, 2020, 08:43:32 PM
Bottom sheet is for your car anyway. I'll bet someone is looking for the top sheet too.

I would love to be able to get that build sheet to someone if they have the original car to it

I just Google searched the VIN, no hits...

What kind of car?   I just found out his brother owned a Red T/A


I found this

https://forum.e-bodies.org/e-body-stuff-found-on-ebay-craigslist-or-anywhere-else/20/ta-motor-on-cl-ob298826/11092/

Quote from: FIAARMN on April 25, 2020, 09:42:42 PM

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 25, 2020, 09:22:50 PM

Quote from: FIAARMN on April 25, 2020, 08:48:02 PM

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on April 25, 2020, 08:43:32 PM
Bottom sheet is for your car anyway. I'll bet someone is looking for the top sheet too.

I would love to be able to get that build sheet to someone if they have the original car to it

I just Google searched the VIN, no hits...

What kind of car?   I just found out his brother owned a Red T/A


I found this

https://forum.e-bodies.org/e-body-stuff-found-on-ebay-craigslist-or-anywhere-else/20/ta-motor-on-cl-ob298826/11092/

Your second sheet is also for a Lime Light AAR VIN BS23J0B298820 It has black interior and it's an automatic....

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 25, 2020, 10:58:10 PM
Your second sheet is also for a Lime Light AAR VIN BS23J0B298820 It has black interior and it's an automatic....

actually the extra "FOUND" sheet is from  :rubeyes:  BS23J0B298826 - same as the "FOUND" engine thread linked above

ODD that it was in a WHITE front bucket seat and the sheet is for another "lime-light" AAR with a BLACK bucket seat interior

the AARs were sequential on the assembly line, automatic in front of the OP's AAR & "In Plant/In Process" on Friday April 3, 1970 running EARLY a couple days ahead of "schedule"

Question about the manifold.......


I washed the engine and noticed that there was a gap in each side on the intake...... this normal (sorry f it is a stupid question)

it's normal &. it doesn't go anywhere so no worries

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 26, 2020, 09:31:05 PM
it's normal &. it doesn't go anywhere so no worries

Ok thank you, I was kinda sure........


I am going do some work tis week.... try to get the front window trim on, then remove the carpet and seats.......... 

Cool thread. Nice looking car!

Thank you Shoooter  :unitedstates:

Is it worth cleaning the original carpet or getting a kit?

if the carpet is original, I'd clean it  :alan2cents: very few 50 year old cars out there with presentable original carpet

It is original.... I will clean it

Take a better picture of the drivers side inner fender... I'd like to see the battery area... Something looks odd to me...

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 27, 2020, 11:34:49 PM
Take a better picture of the drivers side inner fender... I'd like to see the battery area... Something looks odd to me...

:iagree: something happened up front in its past - passenger side inner fender has been replaced & it has 22" radiator core support pieces  :takealook:

did you mention dealer paperwork?  where was it sold new?

Be neat to see if it has original carpet, but I somehow doubt that. The car was restored at some point and if they replaced the headliner, then likely the carpet too...I think if you want the stink out of the car....I would install new carpet too. :alan2cents:

Holy crap, what an awesome inheritance.  Seriously, if you had received money, you may not have had the chance to find such a car.  I am in awe of this thread... seriously awesome.

Sorry for your loss, but Congrats on the car, I am seriously jealous!

Quote from: 6bblgt on April 27, 2020, 11:52:27 PM
did you mention dealer paperwork?  where was it sold new?

Yes, posted a picture of the warranty card. It was bought new 4/17/1970 at Pigati Chrysler in Vacaville Ca

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 27, 2020, 11:34:49 PM
Take a better picture of the drivers side inner fender... I'd like to see the battery area... Something looks odd to me...

What do you see?

Quote from: anlauto on April 28, 2020, 04:54:45 AM
Be neat to see if it has original carpet, but I somehow doubt that. The car was restored at some point and if they replaced the headliner, then likely the carpet too...I think if you want the stink out of the car....I would install new carpet too. :alan2cents:

You are probably right, I didn't really pay to close attention tot he carpet, other than a quick shop vac when I took everything out of the car and off the floor boards. Went off the notes from the car and what I was told.... which I have already been told one thing but discovered another with this car

doubt it too

Quote from: FIAARMN on April 28, 2020, 04:26:30 PM

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 27, 2020, 11:34:49 PM
Take a better picture of the drivers side inner fender... I'd like to see the battery area... Something looks odd to me...

What do you see?

The left inner fender has been replaced as shown by the extra battery hold down bolt hole  on top of the inner fender. 1970-71 Challengers/ Cudas did not have it. They used to J bolts to hold down the battery hold down bracket. Later, the hold down bracket bolted to top of inner fender. An inner fender replaced in the 70s and 80s were given the later inner fender by Mopar. My 71 Challenger was hit twice in the left front fender. This bent the inner fender. I replaced it with another new inner fender from the Dodge dealer. I received and installed the one like you have.
Terry

Pretty simple to say the car has been restored at one time in it's life :alan2cents:

Learning more and more each day.... Thank you all for the continued support!!  :grouphug:

Quote from: anlauto on April 28, 2020, 05:25:09 PM
Pretty simple to say the car has been restored at one time in it's life :alan2cents:

Painted and parts to replaced worn out parts, yes... restored to some extent, just not show perfection restoration

Quote from: anlauto on April 28, 2020, 05:25:09 PM
Pretty simple to say the car has been restored at one time in it's life :alan2cents:

Not that there's anything wrong with that.... But if it bothers you'll I'll be happy to take it off your hands... :rofl: 

On the inner fender, it's not so much the extra bolt hole, it's that bulge in the sheetmetal that doesn't belong.... Whether the inner fender was damaged in a wreck or rusty because of the battery leaking acid for some reason that panel got changed...

Honestly I wouldn't worry about it, if at some point you decide to do a full restoration it's an easy fix but it doesn't effect your ability to drive & enjoy the car.... Just anal old guys busting your balls over B/S that doesn't matter.... But it's good to know about since you now know something happened....

  What 1 Wild R/T said. If later on, the bulge and extra hole on inner fender bothers you, it can be cut and welded to look like an original. Keep in mind that the later inner fenders were all that was available through Mopar until reproduction sheet metal came along much later. It could have been replaced in the 70s/80s like mine was. Enjoy the car for now.
Terry

You've got the right plan...get it cleaned up, safe, and running great and drive the wheels off of it ! :stayinlane:

FWIW it probably got tagged in the front cause as 6bblgt pointed out it also appears to have a 22" radiator support.... Are you sure the numbers stamped in the core support match? If so then the top bar was saved but the side panels got changed...

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 28, 2020, 06:36:23 PM
FWIW it probably got tagged in the front cause as 6bblgt pointed out it also appears to have a 22" radiator support.... Are you sure the numbers stamped in the core support match? If so then the top bar was saved but the side panels got changed...

I'll check that//// for sure the motor, and trans are true to the vnof the car. I will check that.

I am working on either getting the center carb and sending off for rebuild,or buying holley replacements....

I will be spending dome time on it getting the interior cleaned up, pulling out al the parts (panels, trim) that he had to replace things and start working on it.  Goal is to have it on the road in the next 60 days!

what a cool car. it will be great to see that back on the road..

Quote from: FIAARMN on April 28, 2020, 04:14:27 PM
It was bought new 4/17/1970 at Pigati Chrysler in Vacaville Ca

looks like the "COOL OLD DEALERSHIP" building still stands, but is currently Pawsh Place Veterinary Center & Boutique  & Ken's Appliance Repair Shop  :takealook:

Quote from: 6bblgt on April 28, 2020, 11:39:00 PM

Quote from: FIAARMN on April 28, 2020, 04:14:27 PM
It was bought new 4/17/1970 at Pigati Chrysler in Vacaville Ca

looks like the "COOL OLD DEALERSHIP" building still stands, but is currently Pawsh Place Veterinary Center & Boutique  & Ken's Appliance Repair Shop  :takealook:

It is actually not too far room my house, when I get it on the road, I will take a picture of the building with the car in the lot!!!!!!

Took al the seats out, got rid of the amp under the front seat, audio under the rear seat......

Shampooed the carpet twice.......  cleaned the seats...... replaced the plastic back tot he drivers seat....

I went to install the headlight bezel that was in a box, appears to be the wrong side...... So I will be looking for a passenger side one.... I think I have two driver side

I was going to replace the door panels with the new ones he had, but after looking in the boxes I found the forarm rest for the door panels on the car, and decided to keep the ones on it that says Cuda......  I had new clips and screws so I replaced those......

I see the problem for the drivers window, the front track towards the front fender that attaches to the glass, the plasitc piece and screw is missing. Only the rear (towards the door jam) is attached to the glass.  I found the plastic piece in the bottom of the door with a screw, so i will try again tomorrow to get it attached and lub the tracks and inside of the door/

I had a really good look at the front end.... I can tell there was a lot of replacement or work done........... Had to have been wrecked, most likely. Its not restoration quality, but it is pretty descent.....


I did find out that the paint job was done and painted by a semi famous painter from what I was told. I am researching his name and hopefully will find out some details about him

I love this car, my favorite project on the forum.

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on May 03, 2020, 07:57:34 AM
I love this car, my favorite project on the forum.

:iagree:  Its like a dream/fantasy that we all have to acquire such a car!

I don't think the owner actually grasps the fact of how desirable an FJ5 with white interior 4speed AAR Cuda is....It's likely top 3 as far as wanted colour combos, and the 4speed is just icing on the cake. :alan2cents:

Loving this thread.   :popcorn:   :clapping:

I will admit I am learning about the history of this car, the AAR History and so forth every day.   Getting really excited to get the carbs ordered and on so I can hear this thing breath again.

I now it is not show quality or show worthy. but its original vin, build sheet, numbers matching motor & trans, mixed originality in parts and after market or second hand parts has such a cool factor. 

I can't thank this forum, its members and those members who have reached out to me enough for all the help, education and knowledge.

And thank al of you for putting up with my post and questions  :wrenching: :cheers:

Your car is certainly show worthy. Every classic car is. They don't have to be mint, trailer queens.

Got the fuel lines off and the other two carbs. 


The virus wont take these lungs down (Little corona humor, and before you all say something like, those N-95 mask could be donated, they are two years out of expiration)

Since Uncle lived so close to Sears Point Race Way in Sonoma (33 miles), Rumor has it, this Cuda took a few laps around the road course at the Bob Bondurant School of driving in 1978.... or as friends have told the story. Might explain this on the window!

Every time I close the garage at night after tinkering or toying (as the wife says) with the cuda....... I can't resist, I just stand out front and stare at it.......  This dam color and car.......

Plans are, to get the carbs and get this car started up and running to drive to Uncles Memorial. The memorial was postponed because it took over a year to settle his estate, as family just couldn't let his trust be what it was (word for word), some felt to fight it... then with the corona virus, that has postponed it further....

Did you grab the carb off Ebay ?

Love this thread. you a lucky man. 99.9% of us will never get something like that. Cant wait to see it on the road again

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on May 03, 2020, 09:54:50 PM
Did you grab the carb off Ebay ?

No, I am looking for a set of 3........ mechanical..

Quote from: FIAARMN on May 03, 2020, 10:44:54 PM

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on May 03, 2020, 09:54:50 PM
Did you grab the carb off Ebay ?

No, I am looking for a set of 3........ mechanical..

If it were mine I'd either track down stock carbs & put the car back to stock or I would look at the two Sixpack EFI options...

I know the mechanical carbs work well but a real AAR likely isn't gonna be used as a racecar, so why trade originally for the performance when it will also effect the value...

But if you still want the best performance why not also gain drivability & consistent easy starting...

If you are going to buy 3 carbs I agree, track down the correct vacuum ones. I prefer the mechanicals all right on a hot rod but the car deserves the correct vacuum ones and the mechanicals are only marginally easier to tune.

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on May 04, 2020, 07:33:35 AM
If you are going to buy 3 carbs I agree, track down the correct vacuum ones. I prefer the mechanicals all right on a hot rod but the car deserves the correct vacuum ones and the mechanicals are only marginally easier to tune.

:iagree: could not agree more...spend money once and get the correct parts :alan2cents:

Here is a link for a set of mech carbs
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-SBF-BBF-Chevy-SBC-BBC-3x2-Tri-Power-Six-Pack-set-of-Holley-carburetors/150960479934

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on May 04, 2020, 08:30:21 AM
Here is a link for a set of mech carbs
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-SBF-BBF-Chevy-SBC-BBC-3x2-Tri-Power-Six-Pack-set-of-Holley-carburetors/150960479934

Thanks for the link........ my buddy will be calling Holley tomorrow too.

What would I need to do to go back to vacuum. besides the correct carbs....

Fuel lines, linkages, vacuum hoses?

Pretty much readily available fuel lines and connector linkage between the 3 carbs. Tell you what if you go vacuum carbs I have a brand new set of Mopar Performance connector linkage and if you PM me your address I'll mail them to you for free.

Bore scoped the intake, all inside looks clear.......... bore scoped the fuel tank, very small amount of old gas, smelled like varnish, but looks good.  Gotta be less than a gallon

pulled a plug, looked good

here a pic or two of under the valve cover

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on May 04, 2020, 08:44:43 PM
Pretty much readily available fuel lines and connector linkage between the 3 carbs. Tell you what if you go vacuum carbs I have a brand new set of Mopar Performance connector linkage and if you PM me your address I'll mail them to you for free.

Vacuum lines?  Anyone have a good pic or diagram for the vacuum set up?

First
https://www.ebay.com/i/330481951699?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=330481951699&targetid=885787207871&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032274&poi=&campaignid=6469750693&mkgroupid=89345420792&rlsatarget=aud-622524042678:pla-885787207871&abcId=1141176&merchantid=131376503&gclid=Cj0KCQjw17n1BRDEARIsAFDHFezC3AagM_izMMfGHNwxs1uYe7tZEzDDvYbVZU6jQgNB43R5fsMs41YaAlDNEALw_wcB

Second
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-1974-Mopar-A-B-E-Body-Cuda-Charger-Duster-340-Six-Pack-Installation-Kit/263456912372?hash=item3d574173f4:g:EqgAAOSwy4hURlZr

Third
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/629292/six-pack-center-carb-diff-between-auto-and-manual.html

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on May 04, 2020, 09:02:39 PM
First
https://www.ebay.com/i/330481951699?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=330481951699&targetid=885787207871&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032274&poi=&campaignid=6469750693&mkgroupid=89345420792&rlsatarget=aud-622524042678:pla-885787207871&abcId=1141176&merchantid=131376503&gclid=Cj0KCQjw17n1BRDEARIsAFDHFezC3AagM_izMMfGHNwxs1uYe7tZEzDDvYbVZU6jQgNB43R5fsMs41YaAlDNEALw_wcB

Second
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-1974-Mopar-A-B-E-Body-Cuda-Charger-Duster-340-Six-Pack-Installation-Kit/263456912372?hash=item3d574173f4:g:EqgAAOSwy4hURlZr

Third
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/629292/six-pack-center-carb-diff-between-auto-and-manual.html

We Got a decision to make, clearly

The carbs I linked are shown as Automatic but as the link to Moparts discussed the difference from Auto to 4 Spd carbs are minimal.... But also those are new carbs so they aren't date code correct....

If you really want the right carbs wait for date correct 4 Spd cores & send them to Harms for restoration...

If your good with the ones I linked above I would replace the bolts holding the float bolts with correct style screws & enjoy driving the car...

Researched and am going to go with a set of TMP Carbs. (Troy Patterson)  We consulted with him today and seems this will be the direction since it was decided to stay mechanical

Interesting choice, I hope everything works out well for you  :twothumbsup:

What a great car .They are only original once .  As my cuda is factory fj5  I too find my self doing the same thing stareing at that colour . Great story awesome cheers  :australia:

carbs ordered.......


This weekend we will manually turn over the motor, get some oil in the cylinder, change the oil, drain fuel tank and do some interior work on the doors and panels. Need to get he drivers window fixed

Get some dash stuff together ......

 :twothumbsup:

You'll be firing it soon. Having those carbs on will keep it the way your uncle had it.

It's kind of like waiting for Christmas morning after looking at the box's of presents for a week!  :yes:

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on May 07, 2020, 07:29:09 AM
You'll be firing it soon. Having those carbs on will keep it the way your uncle had it.

I agree, that is why it was decided to stay mechanical and to stay true to how he had it and what his plans where at the time of his passing.  If it is ever decided to restore it, it will be made right then.......   :burnout:

If you think doing a rest down the road is likely it might be a good idea to keep an eye out for a set of correct 4spd date coded carbs......

Though honestly the car will be more fun just as it is when you get it back on the road..... Restored means more stress if/when you take it out for a cruise....

Currently it'll turn plenty of heads & be a blast to take out for a drive....

Quote from: FIAARMN on May 07, 2020, 09:14:02 PM


I agree, that is why it was decided to stay mechanical and to stay true to how he had it and what his plans where at the time of his passing. 

I can appreciate that  :drinkingbud:

did not get a chanve todo anything this weekend with the car.... We got side tracked with Mothers Day weekend stuff, oSat and Sun.....

Understandable , special weekend for almost everyone  :bigthumb:

Got an accurate broadcast sheet break down today!!!!! stoked


Learned a few things as well from the help of a very reputable and generous individual....

Just a couple things, nothing major........ not the original hood, but original spoiler, Not the original front fender, battery tray, carbs, radiator, master cylinder, dash (but a true AAR) Been repainted, 1995 (very well done, by a well known painter) under body has been coated, most likely when painted.......Car was a true daily driver....... Survivor with out a major restoration ........   Just happy to know a lot of history on the car, happy to know the car is documented correctly:

Numbers match, Block, Trans ect.. true and in the car
Have an original build sheet
Have original documentation (Dealer Paper Work)
Owner History
Original Manual

Scheduled Production Date 4/7/1970
Purchased 4/17/1970
Vehicle order Number - Ordered Car 132504
Hamtramck Plant, sequential number
Order Type- Sold Car (pigati chrysler vacaville)
FJ5 Lime Light
215 E Body 4 spd
X9 Interior White
C55 Front Seat Vinyl Buckets
A62 Rallye Instrument Cluster


And so On, nothing too rare or odd about the rest of the build sheet!


Now to start preparing the car for the carbs and to start up.... finish off the window repair to the track driver side and finish off the misc interior and dash stuff....... then drive it!


Little more detailed

1 – Broadcast Copy : Station # - Hamtramck
055564 – Sequence Number – Broadcast Print
407 – April 7th 1970 Scheduled Production Date
132504 – Vehicle Order Number – Ordered Car
BS  -  Car Line : Plymouth Cuda
23  -  Body Type : 2 Door Hardtop
J    -  Engine : 340 3-2 BBL  290hp V8
0    -  Model Year : 1970 F-Series
B   -  Assembly Plant : Hamtramck, MI
297483  -  Assembly Plant Sequential Number
Y05  -  Build To Spec's For : U.S.A. Order
Y14  -  Order Type – Sold Car
E55  -  340 3-2 BBL  290hp V8 A53 Package
D21  -  Transmission : A833 – 4 Speed Manual
D56  -  Axle Ratio : 3.55   w/8.75# Dia.
D91  -  Sure Grip
UO1  -  Tires : E60/G60x15 – F/R Polyglas GT
W34  - Collapsible Spare Tire  F78 x 14
H        - Trim Grade : High
   6     - Front Seat : Vinyl Buckets
     X9 – Interior : White
000   - Upper Door Frame Color : None
V01   - Paint Style : Mono – Tone
FJ5    - Body Paint : Lime Light
FJ5    - Roof Style : Lime Light
215   - E-Body  4Spd.  Trans  Floor Shift
X9     - Steering Column : Black
7000 – Steering : Power Ign Lamp : No
04 TT – Steering Wheel Type/Color :
               3 – Spoke / Woodgrain
02 X9 – Type/Color :
               Padded Horn Button / Black
2998974 – Radiator Dia. 26" STD  340  V8
3462193 – Radiator Inlet Hose : 26" 340 T/A
3438172 – Alternator : 37 AMP/Mono Pulley
2863216 – Fan : 7 – Blade/18.5" Diameter
2806070 – Fan Spacer : Torque Drive
2875320 – Battery Series/AMP/Caps : 24/59 Yellow
V6H    - Stripes/Body Side Moldings:
1944154 – Vac. Fitting : 1-Way P/Brake
148     - Engine Assy : 340 6bbl  w / 4Spd & Htr.
3577182 – Carb : Holley 2300  R4791A Center 2bbl
3410789 – Trans.A833 4 – Spd. Manual 23 Spline
2538935 – Speedo. Pinion : 35 Teeth/Orange
2883769 – Prop/Shaft : #7290 / 3.25" x 43.85"
076      - Axle Assy : 3.55 : 1 S/G  8.75" – 11"  Drums
71        - Road Wheels : 15 x 7.0"  Rallye
TX9      - Color : Black Painted Spare
81        - Spare : Collapsible   B.F. Goodrich
3461043 – Wh/Cover : 15" Trim Rings
3583052 – K-Frame : E-Body V8 Engine
2948723 – Ft. Sway Bar :  .94" Diameter
3400556 – Ft.  Shocks : Firm Ride
3400854 – Rr. Shocks : Firm Ride
59       - Front Brake :  Disc/Rr  Drum 11"
1857779 – Lt.  Torsion Bar : .90 x 41"  ALUM
1857778 – Rt.  Torsion Bar : .90 x 41"  ALUM
3400048 – Lt.  Rear Leaf Spring : TRANS AM
3400048 – Rt. Rear Leaf Spring : TRANS AM
  42  10    - Cl/Brk  Pdl : B51, D21,  Less J41
3577729 – Idle Label : 1000RPM in Neut. 2 ½ BTC
3402089 – Tire Label :  E60/G60  x  15"  Load Range
3466910 – Lt.  Exhaust : B – 340 T/A Engine Pipe
3466907 – Rt.  Exhaust : B – 340 T/A Engine Pipe
00       -  Lt. Tailpipe : Deleted w/A53 Pkg.
00       -  Rt. Tailpipe : Deleted w/A53 Pkg.
E P 7   -  Car Height : E Body – Power Strg-?
45       -  Master Cylinder : E Body/ Pwr Disc
14       -  14:00PM  Broadcast  Sheet Print Hour
12       -  #12  Broadcast Sheet Print Sequence Hour
A53    -   Trans Am Package – AAR Cuda
A62    -   Rallye Instrument Cluster
B42    -   Front Brakes : Disc/11" Rear Drum
C55    -   Front Seat : Buckets
C93    -   Carpets
F08    -   Trans Am Engine
STD    -   Alternator : 37 Amp
F23    -    Battery :       59 Amp
F96    -    Gauge :  Oil  Pressure
G11   -    Glass : All Windows Tinted Glass
G34   -     Mirror : Outside LH REM Painted
No     -     Mirror : Outside RH MAN Painted
G41   -     Mirror : Inside Day/Nite Rear View
H11   -     Heater :  With Defroster
No     -     Defogger : Rear Window Blower
No     -     Glove Box Lock
J15    -      Cigar Lighter
J21    -     Electric Clock
J25    -     Wipers : Variable Speed w/Electric Washers
J31    -      Horns Dual
No     -       Pedal Dress Up
J45    -      Hood Pins
No     -       Undercoating
J64    -       Instrument Panel Woodgrain
J82    -       Rear Spoiler  -  Trans Am
No     -        Lite : Map/Courtesy
No     -        Lite : Glove Box
No     -        Lite : Ash Receiver
No     -        Lite : Cargo/Trunk
No     -        Fender Turn Signal Indicators
No     -        Lamp : Ignition Switch w/Time Delay
No     -        Headlamp – On  Signal
No     -        Lamp : Seat Belt Unfastened
No     -        Lite : Title Switch w/Time Delay
L76    -        Lamp : Heater Controls
No     -        Mouldings : Door Edge
M21  -        Mouldings : Drip Rail
No     -        Mouldings : Body Sill
M27  -        Mouldings : Wheel lip Mouldings Delete
No     -        Mouldings : Body Belt
No     -        Front Bumper Gaurds
M83  -        Rear Bumper Gaurds
M88  -        Rear Deck Moulding Treatment
N44   -        Side Exit Exhaust System
No     -        Chrome Exhaust Tips
N65   -        Torque Drive fan
No     -        Maximum Cooling Package – Less Fan
N85   -        Tachometer
N94   -        Carb Fresh Air Package – Fiberglas Hood
N95   -        Evaporative Emission Control
No     -         Noise Reduction Package
No     -         Power Windows
R22   -         Radio : AM w/Stereo 8 Track Player
STD   -         Antenna : Telescopic Rear Quarter Mounted w/N94
S13   -          Front  Suspension : Rallye
S25   -          Shock Absorbers : Firm Ride
S31   -          Sway Bar : Front
STD   -          Sway Bar : Rear
S74   -           Steering : Power  Quick Ratio
S81   -           Steering Wheel : Woodgrain
STD   -          Wheel Covers : Trim Rings
W21  -          Road Wheels :  Rallye
18     -           Trans Am : Designates Trans Am Program Car

there is a '70 Broadcast Sheet Decoder here on-line  :takealook: under the "DECODER" tab

https://decoder.e-bodies.org/1970-mopar-build-sheet-broadcast-decoder/

a couple corrections/clarifications ......

1 – Broadcast Copy : Station # - Hamtramck assembly Line #1
*
H        - Trim Grade : High
   6     - Front Seat : Vinyl Buckets
     X9 – Interior : White (should show "XW")
*
215   - Steering Column: E-Body  4Spd.  Trans  Floor Shift
X9     - Steering Column: Black
7000 – Steering Column: Power Ign Lamp : No
*
14       -  14:00PM  Broadcast  Sheet Print Hour
12       -  #12  Broadcast Sheet Print Sequence Hour
                       the sheet actually shows 09 31 which represents 9:19 AM

Small typos, thanks for the assistance

H6XW

plugs out, mystery oil soaking on the rings..... will turn over by hand next.....

Got some parts out of the boxes, ready to go back on the car.....


getting ready to install the front window trim!1!

Any suggestions for the ash tray, found it in the box of parts.....

What paint kinda matches the interior dash stuff?... or leave it as is a put it in?

SEM trim black

the shifter boot, just don;t have the trim for around it........

Tony sells new ashtray inserts @TONY (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/tony_147)  is a site sponsor. 

Quote from: FIAARMN on May 27, 2020, 10:05:51 PM
No a whole lot happening... still waiting on the carbs!!!! :wrenching:

You ordered them May 6th & still don't have then on the 27th?  21 days? Three Weeks?  From Watsonville less than 75 miles away?  I'd be considering taking a drive.... :alan2cents:

still waiting.... Lol

He is getting to them, I am sure they will be well worth the wait......

Not a whole lot going on, since I am selling my house and moving soon.

We did get the pieces to fix the drivers window crank..... We got most of the interior done and gettign ready for all new fuel lines and aa clean tank......

found out some additional info on the car.....   got introduced to uncles best friend growing up..... he had a orange dodge rt 440 and him and uncle worked on each others cars.

He told me that the original block, when put back in the car had been gone through, and they added a purple cam......  He wasn't too sure about the rest but said the car had headers at one point, but now it ha the stock exhaust manifolds.

No carbs yet ?

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on June 26, 2020, 10:05:29 PM
No carbs yet ?

Nope, good thinks come to those who wait......  If you have seen his carbs, and know about them, you would know why...... Had to get in line.......  my turns about up!!!!!!

How about your windshield trim, have you had a chance to get that figured out ?

Quote from: anlauto on June 28, 2020, 05:47:12 AM
How about your windshield trim, have you had a chance to get that figured out ?

I have not yet........ I want to order the removal tool first....

I got the drivers side window mechanism fixed and got the elbow pads/rest on the doors back on as well. Will be putting the door panel on tomorrow or Sunday.

I am ordering the drill piece for priming the oil pump soon and will be dropping the tank to clean it and remove the old gas.

Excellent thread and your appreciation of all of the help from the team here is acknowledged although just so you know, we are the fortunate ones to have someone like you sharing your uncles car and history along with the build with us!   
This is a big reason this site exists. 
So, Thank You!

Another one in to watch this progress.

Hello all, been awhile since I posted......


As you all know I orders carbs because the center carb was missing, well... the carbs I ordered are not in yet.... COVID delayed.


Great news, I was contacted by family, and the center carb was found..... we should have it shipped out to us next week....  It was in a box, at the estate and tucked in a box in uncles laundry room with a rebuild receipt.....  this explains why the center carb was off.

So with the window fixed, door panels on........  the glove box on, the shifter boot and the motor turned over by hand..... the following list will be done soon, I hope

1) Old fuel out
2) new fuel lines
3) new filter
4) new plugs, wires and cap
5) manually prime oil pump
6) fresh fuel
7) carbs on
8) battery
9) fire her up
10) Oil change


Getting excited, but afraid my move from my house will delay my ambition

Awesome that you found the original center carb for it !!  :bradsthumb:

Yeah, that's pretty good news.

That's cool news :twothumbsup:

yes, you can say I was jumping up and down in joy that it was found and to know the center carb will be here soon......   :veryexcited:

So what's the plan now, did you cancel the order you had for the other carbs ? Just going to go with the set your uncle had planned on ?

I'd start looking at cancelling those carbs, PayPal has a time limit, after that they won't help you... This guy has had way more that enough time to get you your carbs...
You advertise something for sale you damn well better be be ready to sell it... Not string the buyer along till PayPal won't do anything...

What a story!!! Thought I'd drop a note from the few Ebody guys in Calif.

I have a huge lot coming up for sale that I want to get rid of and you might be interested in some of it.

You staying in state or moving out?

Dropped off the two outer carbs to a local builder.... he is rebuilding them...... Calling the custom carb builder we hired for the set (yet to have them)  promised 2 months, it has been 3..... Hope I can cancel if I do not hear good news tomorrow.

Hope to have it running by the end of the month!!!

Ok, finally got to do some work today.....

1) Pulled Distributor and primed the pump for the 1st time
2) Pumped and emptied the fuel, very little in it
3) Put new Fuel Lines On
4) New Mechanical Fuel Pump
5) Picked up the carbs from the local builder who rebuilt the outer carbs
6) He checked the center carb (all is good) as you know we found it recently with rebuild paperwork
7) Added a battery. No brake Likes, All other lights work. Door Buzzer and dash lights good

I'll have a few questions after I post picks for all of you

Well, it appears the tank is rather new and been replaced.... there was maybe 1/4 of a gallon in the tank.

Then we added the new fuel pump...

After some other stuff got the dist off and shaft and gear out, primed the pump for the 1st time...

Good news, the oil pressure gauges came alive during priming

So with the battery in........ Couple questions

Headlights, taillights work,,,,, cluster lights good, Door buzzer and dome light good.

Where do I start for the brake lights?


Next, see pic attached. These wires are not plugged into anything. Can you tell me where to start with them  or some of your thoughts, or if you know?

Here is the pick of the rebuilt carbs......... just sitting on the intake.......  going to probably get them installed in the next couple of days, get the linkage hooked up and the fuel rail done.

Brakes a re fairly easy , power goes into the brake light switch [pink wire ] then into the turnsignal switch [white wire ]  then out to each taillight & out to individual taillights  dark brown & green IIRC , there is a plug behind the drivers kick panel to the rear that can be a problem also .
the wire behond the booster could be one of the reverse light wires 2 for 4 spd & 3 for auto , could also be the clutch start switch ground from the start relay .

Those two wires in your hand plug together, they are for the dash reverse light. The round tube connector by your thumb is for the road lamp wire :alan2cents:

Good progress, this should be firing up pretty quick.

Got all new Bolts for the carbs......

Looking for a fuel rail now, anybody have a suggestion?

Looking to start it by Saturday!!!

Contact Dave @ Roseville

I've always built my own with weatherhead fittings and 5/16 line when running that setup. It's a PITA clearing the throttle linkage and aircleaner. Do you have the connecting linkage hooking the center carb to the outboards? Seems to me the last setup I did I used linkage from Edelbrock for a 2X4 setup with some mods.
You're supposed to set them up so it runs on the center carb until about half throttle then they all go to WOT together so the end carbs have to open faster than the center once they start opening.

I also have the mechanical 6 pack carbs on my AAR, when i bought them in the 80's i also bought the Installation Package from Edelbrock which included the rods for the outboards as well as the Fuel Rail line. I never used the Fuel Rail line as i didn't like the look of the rubber hoses so like Sheldon said I made my own.

I never had the correct Throttle cable bracket or Throttle Return bracket and just purchased some repros so I had to make some new fuel lines recently (At least my 3rd time re-doing them lol). The only real issue i had with building them is that they need to start angling down right away at the fitting to clear the factory air cleaner base plate so you have to have the fitting in place and flared before you start your first bend and then when you start to bend it, it's difficult to keep the flared in flush in the fitting, take a bit of playing around but it works.

These ones came out a little rough, so i will be re-doing them, but at least I have a good template now.

Attached some pics

Fuel lines look great  :bigthumb:

Nice job Jim: Take note of the connecting linkage too, that is what Holley supplied me back in 1980 for these carbs. That loop slips back and then hits a stop which pulls the end carbs open.

You can see I have the same style rail you have in t he 1st picture Jim AAR, Not sure if I will clean and re-install of get a new set up

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on August 10, 2020, 07:03:09 AM
I've always built my own with weatherhead fittings and 5/16 line when running that setup. It's a PITA clearing the throttle linkage and aircleaner. Do you have the connecting linkage hooking the center carb to the outboards? Seems to me the last setup I did I used linkage from Edelbrock for a 2X4 setup with some mods.
You're supposed to set them up so it runs on the center carb until about half throttle then they all go to WOT together so the end carbs have to open faster than the center once they start opening.

Yes Sir, I have all the linkage and as far as I know will be set up as you mention

It looks like you're all set. Dang, you're going to be starting your AAR this weekend and I'm going to be painting the stairwell in my house, this isn't fair!

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on August 11, 2020, 06:46:49 AM
It looks like you're all set. Dang, you're going to be starting your AAR this weekend and I'm going to be painting the stairwell in my house, this isn't fair!

The plan is to get it started before Saturday!!!!!!   Should have a couple hours tomorrow to work on it.



On a side note, heard from the builder for the carbs I ordered, will be done in 2-3 weeks... thats a whole new story and a fight I will have to take soon

Carbs are n, some of the soft fuel lines replaced. Having an issue with getting it primed, any ideas?Tank was emptied, new mechanical pump installed, new rubber lines, now I am having an issue getting fuel to the pump. put about 8 gallons in (great new, fuel gauge working)

I tried a electric pump just before the mechanical pump, no luck.   Next is it wise to use a air hose to pressurize the tank?

The feeder lines and rail are temporary until I order or make something more functional and attractive.

Ideas to getting it to prime?

Did you try blowing through the line from the tank to the pump?   It could be blocked..

Sometimes it's hard to get a prime by grinding away at the starter, pour a little fuel down the carb, the engine should fire off that & the higher RPMs usually will get the fuel pump working... It may take a few tries...

Another method that works well is filling the carb bowls through the vent tubes (blue arrows)... A squirt bottle works well to do that..

You can fill the carbs through the air vents with a tiny funnel

Why are the fuel lines are on the drivers side like a Chevy tri-power set up ? All mopar 6 BBL intakes use fuel lines on the passenger side. I read you wanted mechanical carbs but if I had to switch everything from the factory set up I think I would have kept Vacuum.     

No they don't, the Original Vacuum carbs do, but the Mechanical ones do not.

You could only find the Mechanical ones in the 80's when I bought mine. Unless you could find a used set.

The original poster was just following the footsteps of his late Uncle  :andyangel: by using mechanical carbs, but I agree, for regular street use, and on a car as rare as an AAR, I think I would have sourced the original style vacuum operated set-up.

Hopefully this set-up will work well for it's intended purpose. :twothumbsup:

I'd like to get the Original Vacuum ones some day, but I have better ways to spend a couple grand without replacing a perfectly good set of carbs just for originality sake. My  six pack was long gone when I bought it in 1979 and the owner had no idea who he sold it too, the guy was a bit of a goof, IMHO.

I drive my car and the mechanical ones are nothing to set up, all you need to do is set the float, adjust the Air/Fuel on the Center carb and accelerator pumps on all and you're done. Not Original but i don't consider parts that simply bolt on and require no modifications to be a big deal.

Runs awesome and not a lot of tinkering after you set them up initially, easy. peasy............

Its ALIVE!!!!  The Cuda is once again running........  Seems the cracked fuel line we replaced did the trick.  we raised the rear end too and let gravity help us, natural slop of the driveway did the trick.  Once the fuel bowls where filed and the line and rail all filled with fuel, the car turned over for about 5-7 seconds and then she came ALIVE!!!!   Idle is high and the carbs need to be addressed. Tried the ile screw but no change and I don't know enough about them to start turning things  I have to tweak the throttle linkage too.  So now that it is running we are waiting for the carb guy to come over tonight an tune them and do the idle adjustment. So until then, we are replacing the fluids. Oil, antifreeze and going to replace the thermostat too.

New plug wires, coil and cap as well.

What a feeling to hear something roar to life that has not been started in what we believe to be 15-20 years or maybe more. Pretty emotional to finish something that uncle tried to start before his passing.


Question, if the throttle adjuster isnt lowering the rpms, where do I look and what to address?  Could timing cause the higher idle?  There is no missing or back firing, so the timing seems to be own, or very close. No issues shutting off either, like a car out of timing would do

The factory tach inst working, thoughts as to where to look?

Is your Choke hooked up? If so it may not be letting it kick down.

Check to see if your Fast Idle Cam is hanging up also.

I did hook up the chock, and will check the fast idle too

Congrats!

Next up on the fast idle will be check for vacuum leaks. I assume the outer 2 carbs shut fully and all idle adjustment is to center carb.

Congratulations. That must be quite a thrill!

|Awesome! Check that the throttle cable is allowing the carb to go to idle. Also the secondary carb linkage could be adjusted incorrectly and keeping the throttle from closing as well.

It sucks that the race fuel bowls do not fit with the added metering block but for the advantage of full mechanical carbs the fuel line mod is minor .

We will be making another run at it tomorrow to get the carbs idling and set up...... them just maybe, she will get some short road time!!!!  I will check all that you all have mentioned,much appreciated!

:tool: = :wrenching: =  :burnout:

ALRIGHT Y.........  A little update, 104 degrees outside so we stopped for the day.

Got the door panels on and window issues fixed.

Next we tackled the idle issue.... After getting the timing set and setting the bowls the car fired up.....

Here is the issue now, the car seems to idle fine, but as soon as you open the throttle some and the RPMs rise, the car will not resume idle speed when you let off the throttle..... RPMs stay a couple hundred RPM or more higher. Now, if we shut the car off and re-start, the RPMs go to idle speed but when you apply the throttle and let off the RPM's still stay higher as described, There is no Hung up linkage and the center and outer carbs are all in the return to the proper position. 

My buddy seems to think the ignition box may be bad and not allowing the RPMs to return to idle speed.  He wants to change out the distributor too.

Here is  an idle video.... the idel speed and at the end when you hear the RPMs rise with a light throttle, that is where it stays when you let off the throttle. Won't return to the idle speed unless you shut the car off and re-start?

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOU8xcR-6H2tUKDiVzbV7chG3kEe1f8DmWP7LQ1

What are your thoughts?

And there is a wire off the alternator wire plug, goes no place.... ideas where it goes?

Check your timing when the motor is at your happy rpm. Then get it to increase as you noted. Check timing again. All with vac line disconnected and plugged.
If timing has advanced, it probably is the mechanical advance sticking in distributor.
Small rev it advances and then stays when back to idle. Shutting it off allows for everything to settle back to normal. Then it repeats again.

My first thought as well. Advance weights in distributor sticking, probably a broken advance weight spring too.

The wire in your hand goes the the idol stop solenoid on the driver's side of the intake. :alan2cents:

Quote from: YellowThumper on August 15, 2020, 03:21:13 PM
Check your timing when the motor is at your happy rpm. Then get it to increase as you noted. Check timing again. All with vac line disconnected and plugged.
If timing has advanced, it probably is the mechanical advance sticking in distributor.
Small rev it advances and then stays when back to idle. Shutting it off allows for everything to settle back to normal. Then it repeats again.

That is exactly what it is doing........  Double checked this morning.  I will address this issue and if that doesn't then get a entire new Distributor set up.

Any suggestions on a good set up to swap to, given the age of everything?

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on August 15, 2020, 03:24:14 PM
My first thought as well. Advance weights in distributor sticking, probably a broken advance weight spring too.

Thanks for the reply.............   

I wouldn't swap out the ignition parts, I've spent lots of money on new ignition parts (distributors, MSD, Mopar Performance parts) and it pretty much all fails way before it should (like half a season at best). No experience with the FBO stuff so maybe it's better.

Congrats on getting it fired up  :cooldance:

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on August 16, 2020, 01:35:19 PM
Congrats on getting it fired up  :cooldance:

Thanks, it was great...... thing sounded so old school cool!

All you may need to do is remove the top plate, check springs and clean old dry gunk to free up again.
If original. Keep it original.

Quote from: YellowThumper on August 17, 2020, 08:49:51 AM
All you may need to do is remove the top plate, check springs and clean old dry gunk to free up again.
If original. Keep it original.

Car should have a Prestolite Dual point... It has an early DC Electronic ignition..  Still a useable piece but not original.... The early DC had a weird advance curve prone to these kind of issues.... Personally I'd order this...

https://www.ebay.com/i/323937664457?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=323937664457&targetid=935065067707&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032274&poi=&campaignid=10756921129&mkgroupid=104099362697&rlsatarget=pla-935065067707&abcId=9300384&merchantid=6296724&gclid=CjwKCAjw1ej5BRBhEiwAfHyh1BrscCmdz7tgkFopcJ13qKI39YQAj8iXaz6D6B0dTO029IW2F-iIOhoCZVUQAvD_BwE

And fix whats already there...

Fires Forced Evacuation at 3:30am when the PD knocked on the door for all of us to get out. Had no time to take the Cuda or many other valuables and my jeep.......  2 days later, back in to assess the damage.... House, Cuda and Jeep made it   :grouphug:


But many people lost everything, homes, cars, live stock and so much more. My heart goes out to all of them

The fires rage on, so needless to say the cuda will on hold for a while

I am happy you & the Cuda are OK , too bad about others

Glad you're okay. I lived through that too. Took the Hemi Coronet but the Orange Challenger was in pieces and uninsured, that was a troubling week. Stored the car at work and we could see the smoke and helicopters fighting the blaze.

I get very nervous, if the car is not up and running, this time of year. I took mine off the mountain, the other day, for safe storage, at a friends shop. First, though, I had to finish putting it back together. Talk about motivation!

 Yes indeed, pretty nerve racking......


Car is now moved to a different location anyways........ I have to be out of my house in a couple of weeks because its been sold.... that was the scary thing too, house sold and car left behind when we evacuated.........

Will be living in my RV at the in laws property until my new house is ready in December!!!!!!

The new set up is in........ at least in my hands...... Hope to get it on the car in a couple of weeks

Been some time, with the evacuation of the fires, my home sold and moving into my trailer on the property until the house is built finally got the distributor in and now she is running.   Set timing and all is good, but I know the crabs need to be set up properly. So until the guy I have can come over, there isn't any more updates.

She is running, and she idles, O SO  :yes: Sweet Sounding!

 Sorry. I had to chuckle when you said the "crabs" need to be set up properly.  :). Glad you have it running. Hopefully, it's all good from here on.
Terry

Good news, it's always  nice to have them running and driveable.

 Lol,     Gotcha!  :D

Yes sir, hope to get it on  the street for a little run soon, once the carbs (aka crabs) are tuned and I can make sure the brakes are proper

If I was nearer or allowed to fly I would drop by & set them up but .....