Inherited Family Owned 1970 AAR - Limelight Build

[Jim AAR]

I'd like to get the Original Vacuum ones some day, but I have better ways to spend a couple grand without replacing a perfectly good set of carbs just for originality sake. My  six pack was long gone when I bought it in 1979 and the owner had no idea who he sold it too, the guy was a bit of a goof, IMHO.

I drive my car and the mechanical ones are nothing to set up, all you need to do is set the float, adjust the Air/Fuel on the Center carb and accelerator pumps on all and you're done. Not Original but i don't consider parts that simply bolt on and require no modifications to be a big deal.

Runs awesome and not a lot of tinkering after you set them up initially, easy. peasy............

[FIAARMN]

Its ALIVE!!!!  The Cuda is once again running........  Seems the cracked fuel line we replaced did the trick.  we raised the rear end too and let gravity help us, natural slop of the driveway did the trick.  Once the fuel bowls where filed and the line and rail all filled with fuel, the car turned over for about 5-7 seconds and then she came ALIVE!!!!   Idle is high and the carbs need to be addressed. Tried the ile screw but no change and I don't know enough about them to start turning things  I have to tweak the throttle linkage too.  So now that it is running we are waiting for the carb guy to come over tonight an tune them and do the idle adjustment. So until then, we are replacing the fluids. Oil, antifreeze and going to replace the thermostat too.

New plug wires, coil and cap as well.

What a feeling to hear something roar to life that has not been started in what we believe to be 15-20 years or maybe more. Pretty emotional to finish something that uncle tried to start before his passing.


Question, if the throttle adjuster isnt lowering the rpms, where do I look and what to address?  Could timing cause the higher idle?  There is no missing or back firing, so the timing seems to be own, or very close. No issues shutting off either, like a car out of timing would do

The factory tach inst working, thoughts as to where to look?

[Jim AAR]

Is your Choke hooked up? If so it may not be letting it kick down.

Check to see if your Fast Idle Cam is hanging up also.

[FIAARMN]

I did hook up the chock, and will check the fast idle too

[YellowThumper]

Congrats!

Next up on the fast idle will be check for vacuum leaks. I assume the outer 2 carbs shut fully and all idle adjustment is to center carb.

[blown motor]

Congratulations. That must be quite a thrill!

[RUNCHARGER]

|Awesome! Check that the throttle cable is allowing the carb to go to idle. Also the secondary carb linkage could be adjusted incorrectly and keeping the throttle from closing as well.

[Chryco Psycho]

It sucks that the race fuel bowls do not fit with the added metering block but for the advantage of full mechanical carbs the fuel line mod is minor .

[FIAARMN]

We will be making another run at it tomorrow to get the carbs idling and set up...... them just maybe, she will get some short road time!!!!  I will check all that you all have mentioned,much appreciated!

= = 

[FIAARMN]

ALRIGHT Y.........  A little update, 104 degrees outside so we stopped for the day.

Got the door panels on and window issues fixed.

Next we tackled the idle issue.... After getting the timing set and setting the bowls the car fired up.....

Here is the issue now, the car seems to idle fine, but as soon as you open the throttle some and the RPMs rise, the car will not resume idle speed when you let off the throttle..... RPMs stay a couple hundred RPM or more higher. Now, if we shut the car off and re-start, the RPMs go to idle speed but when you apply the throttle and let off the RPM's still stay higher as described, There is no Hung up linkage and the center and outer carbs are all in the return to the proper position. 

My buddy seems to think the ignition box may be bad and not allowing the RPMs to return to idle speed.  He wants to change out the distributor too.

Here is  an idle video.... the idel speed and at the end when you hear the RPMs rise with a light throttle, that is where it stays when you let off the throttle. Won't return to the idle speed unless you shut the car off and re-start?

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOU8xcR-6H2tUKDiVzbV7chG3kEe1f8DmWP7LQ1

What are your thoughts?

And there is a wire off the alternator wire plug, goes no place.... ideas where it goes?

[YellowThumper]

Check your timing when the motor is at your happy rpm. Then get it to increase as you noted. Check timing again. All with vac line disconnected and plugged.
If timing has advanced, it probably is the mechanical advance sticking in distributor.
Small rev it advances and then stays when back to idle. Shutting it off allows for everything to settle back to normal. Then it repeats again.

[RUNCHARGER]

My first thought as well. Advance weights in distributor sticking, probably a broken advance weight spring too.

[anlauto]

The wire in your hand goes the the idol stop solenoid on the driver's side of the intake.

[FIAARMN]

Check your timing when the motor is at your happy rpm. Then get it to increase as you noted. Check timing again. All with vac line disconnected and plugged.
If timing has advanced, it probably is the mechanical advance sticking in distributor.
Small rev it advances and then stays when back to idle. Shutting it off allows for everything to settle back to normal. Then it repeats again.

That is exactly what it is doing........  Double checked this morning.  I will address this issue and if that doesn't then get a entire new Distributor set up.

Any suggestions on a good set up to swap to, given the age of everything?

[FIAARMN]

My first thought as well. Advance weights in distributor sticking, probably a broken advance weight spring too.

Thanks for the reply.............