Has anyone bought one of the new reproduction ignition switches from one of the mopar parts vendors out there. I needed one for my 73 Challenger so I picked one up and took the steering column apart and installed it. All went ok with running the wires and it worked fine till a couple of months later when I got to the Nationals and pulled into a gas station before going to the track to pick up some snacks. When I came out and went to start the Challenger the car would fire and soon as I let go of the key the engine would die. After some testing we found that there was no power going out of the switch once I let off of the key. Put a jumper wire to hot wire the car to get to the track and went to the vendor who happened to be there and was given another switch and told he had not had any problems with them. Long story short I put the new switch in and found after about 2 weeks if the key was not left in just the right spot after starting it none of the dash gauges would work. I found a NOS made in USA switch on ebay and my problems were solved. Hope no one else has run into this problem and hope my issues were isolated to just me. Not sure where these are being made.
I've not had any trouble with them at all. Glad you got your issue fixed and thanks for sharing your experience.
I've dealt with two... Both were junk.... I strongly suggest if your actually driving you car that you either find a good used part or NOS..
Slots probably has some
I always try to use original parts. I find it amazing with todays technology how the old original 50 year old parts are superior.
50 years ago the assy line was using 100s / day
now how many do you think are sold , it is not about quality , just profit from lack of volume
Quote from: 71340RT on April 08, 2018, 07:43:39 PM
Put a jumper wire to hot wire the car.
Hey 71340RT, can you please tell me exactly from where and to where you put your jumper. One of those switches was put in my car last September. Even though I didn't have any problem right up to when the car was parked for the winter I'd like to be pro active just in case. Thanks.
battery connection on the start relay to the blue connector at the ballast will power ign & coil
Thanks Neil, now I know how long of a jumper I should keep in the car.
I'd like to know where you got this repop switch at. My customer with a 70 Challenger would not listen to me on buying electrical components and bought bought a new repop turn signal and a ignition switch off of eBay. The ignition was sold by Rick Erenberger and he was told it was made by the original vender that made them for Mopar originally. It has not failed yet but due to the fact it was not made like the factory with the flat wiring, it was very hard to get in the column. He has a big plastic sheath around the loose wires and it's a pain in the but to thread. Now the turn signal switch failed after 500 miles. Looking at the problem, I can't believe it lasted that long. The terminal for the white wire that goes to the brake switch is too big. The plastic that separates that terminal from the metal that is connected to the turn signal lever has a large tang that holds it in place. The plastic has a slot for the tang. It is so close it grounds out and pops the fuse. It's a crappy design. I need to start another thread with pictures to warn you guys.
Quote from: Fastmark on April 15, 2018, 05:27:40 AM
I'd like to know where you got this repop switch at.
If you're asking about mine, I don't know. My Mopar mechanic guy had it.
If you're asking about 71340RT's, you'll have to wait for him to chime in.
Quote from: Fastmark on April 15, 2018, 05:27:40 AM
I'd like to know where you got this repop switch at. My customer with a 70 Challenger would not listen to me on buying electrical components and bought bought a new repop turn signal and a ignition switch off of eBay. The ignition was sold by Rick Erenberger and he was told it was made by the original vender that made them for Mopar originally. It has not failed yet but due to the fact it was not made like the factory with the flat wiring, it was very hard to get in the column. He has a big plastic sheath around the loose wires and it's a pain in the but to thread. Now the turn signal switch failed after 500 miles. Looking at the problem, I can't believe it lasted that long. The terminal for the white wire that goes to the brake switch is too big. The plastic that separates that terminal from the metal that is connected to the turn signal lever has a large tang that holds it in place. The plastic has a slot for the tang. It is so close it grounds out and pops the fuse. It's a crappy design. I need to start another thread with pictures to warn you guys.
Mine came from Vans parts out if Wi. Sure they are made over seas. They sell lots of reproduction mopar parts.
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on April 13, 2018, 07:57:39 PM
battery connection on the start relay to the blue connector at the ballast will power ign & coil
This is a simple way to make it run and just the way to do it.