Reproduction ignition switch

[71340RT]

Has anyone bought one of the new reproduction ignition switches from one of the mopar parts vendors out there. I needed one for my 73 Challenger so I picked one up and took the steering column apart and installed it. All went ok with running the wires and it worked fine till a couple of months later when I got to the Nationals and pulled into a gas station before going to the track to pick up some snacks. When I came out and went to start the Challenger the car would fire and soon as I let go of the key the engine would die. After some testing we found that there was no power going out of the switch once I let off of the key. Put a jumper wire to hot wire the car to get to the track and went to the vendor who happened to be there and was given another switch and told he had not had any problems with them. Long story short I put the new switch in and found after about 2 weeks if the key was not left in just the right spot after starting it none of the dash gauges would work. I found a NOS made in USA switch on ebay and my problems were solved. Hope no one else has run into this problem and hope my issues were isolated to just me. Not sure where these are being made.

[Cuda Cody]

I've not had any trouble with them at all.  Glad you got your issue fixed and thanks for sharing your experience.

[1 Wild R/T]

I've dealt with two... Both were junk....  I strongly suggest if your actually driving you car that you either find a good used part or NOS..

[Chryco Psycho]

Slots probably has some

[Slotts]

Thanks again, Neil! 

@71340RT

Hey Jeff,

Sorry to hear about that, too. I do restore factory 2947437 ignition switches. However, I have not had my hands on one of those repops. If you would like to send your failed ignition switch to me, I would be glad to open and display that, side by side , with an original core, to show just what is inside both and share those pictures for comparison.

I keep preaching how inferior off shore repop electrical parts are against original factory parts and this part seems to be no exception. 

When the ROI (return on investment) mentality used by these US electrical repop concept/suppliers supersedes quality or the ignorance of understanding what the original design engineering requirements and acceptable tolerances were at the time the original part was being designed, this will continue to happen each and every time.



Jim

[RUNCHARGER]

I always try to use original parts. I find it amazing with todays technology how the old original 50 year old parts are superior.

[Chryco Psycho]

50 years ago the assy line was using 100s / day
now how many do you think are sold , it is not about quality , just profit from lack of volume

[Jay Bee]

Put a jumper wire to hot wire the car.

Hey 71340RT, can you please tell me exactly from where and to where you put your jumper. One of those switches was put in my car last September. Even though I didn't have any problem right up to when the car was parked for the winter I'd like to be pro active just in case. Thanks. 

[Chryco Psycho]

battery connection on the start relay to the blue connector at the ballast will power ign & coil

[Jay Bee]

Thanks Neil, now I know how long of a jumper I should keep in the car.

[Fastmark]

I'd like to know where you got this repop switch at. My customer with a 70 Challenger would not listen to me on buying electrical components and bought bought a new repop turn signal and a ignition switch off of eBay. The ignition was sold by Rick Erenberger and he was told it was made by the original vender that made them for Mopar originally. It has not failed yet but due to the fact it was not made like the factory with the flat wiring, it was very hard to get in the column. He has a big plastic sheath around the loose wires and it's a pain in the but to thread. Now the turn signal switch failed after 500 miles. Looking at the problem, I can't believe it lasted that long. The terminal for the white wire that goes to the brake switch is too big. The plastic that separates that terminal from the metal that is connected to the turn signal lever has a large tang that holds it in place. The plastic has a slot for the tang. It is so close it grounds out and pops the fuse. It's a crappy design. I need to start another thread with pictures to warn you guys.

[Jay Bee]

I'd like to know where you got this repop switch at.

If you're asking about mine, I don't know. My Mopar mechanic guy had it.
If you're asking about 71340RT's, you'll have to wait for him to chime in.

[71340RT]

I'd like to know where you got this repop switch at. My customer with a 70 Challenger would not listen to me on buying electrical components and bought bought a new repop turn signal and a ignition switch off of eBay. The ignition was sold by Rick Erenberger and he was told it was made by the original vender that made them for Mopar originally. It has not failed yet but due to the fact it was not made like the factory with the flat wiring, it was very hard to get in the column. He has a big plastic sheath around the loose wires and it's a pain in the but to thread. Now the turn signal switch failed after 500 miles. Looking at the problem, I can't believe it lasted that long. The terminal for the white wire that goes to the brake switch is too big. The plastic that separates that terminal from the metal that is connected to the turn signal lever has a large tang that holds it in place. The plastic has a slot for the tang. It is so close it grounds out and pops the fuse. It's a crappy design. I need to start another thread with pictures to warn you guys.

Mine came from Vans parts out if Wi. Sure they are made over seas. They sell lots of reproduction mopar parts.

[71340RT]

battery connection on the start relay to the blue connector at the ballast will power ign & coil

This is a simple way to make it run and just the way to do it.