70 Cuda 383
Those of you that have done it, how did you route the wire ? I thought about laying it over the engine beside the distributor, but I'm paranoid about that hot of a wire chaffing. Have also thought about running it inside of some fuel line for extra protection.
You do want to protect that wire, there are many options for that. I prefer braided split sleeving.
Ensure to add some circuit protection to that wire..
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I ran my along the right side of engine, along the firewall, then up to relay.
Factory did all the other wires this way. Wrap it with factory harness if you're concerned.
What is the best fuse for the bypass wire ? I have the original style alternator.
I used a fusible link just like the factory did.
Quote from: Katfish on February 01, 2018, 03:25:04 PM
I used a fusible link just like the factory did.
What size ?
Quote from: Racer57 on February 01, 2018, 03:46:57 PM
Quote from: Katfish on February 01, 2018, 03:25:04 PM
I used a fusible link just like the factory did.
What size ?
I have these in stock. https://forum.e-bodies.org/parts-for-sale/9/-new-product-1970-1971-fusible-link/5158/
depends on alternator and what size wire you choose, good info here
https://www.allpar.com/fix/alternator.html
I ran the wire from the alt, forward through to the front of the rad cradle, across to the driver's side, back through to the engine compartment, to an MANL fuse.
Quote from: Katfish on February 01, 2018, 04:45:35 PM
depends on alternator and what size wire you choose, good info here
https://www.allpar.com/fix/alternator.html
Good info, two wire gauge smaller than the protected wire, recently did this wiring, just have to add the fusible link.
I use Blue Sea Systems [or the like] circuit breakers for my charging systems, I have a 150a for the Hemi alt. It also makes it nice when you need to work around the alternator, just push the trip button and there's no need to worry about a hot wire over there.
I use circuit breakers and run the wire through the front bulhead as well, it is pretty hard to see it there.
I've run it forward across the radiator support, I've run it rearward across the firewall.... And I've run it underneath zip tied to the Alterkation K member on a car that the owner wanted it that way.... On that one I slipped the wire in a 1/4" thin walled rubber hose to add extra protection...
Ideally you would want a fusable link at both ends as the wire has battery power at both ends of the wire
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on February 01, 2018, 10:43:07 PM
Ideally you would want a fusable link at both ends as the wire has battery power at both ends of the wire
Agreed, but if you only fuse one end, as I do, it must be the battery side.
The alt has nowhere near the available fault current that the battery has and if you kill the ignition, the alt is no longer a source. :alan2cents:
Once the fusible link blows, path/circuit is open, nowhere for current to flow.
I don't see the need to have on both sides of the wire protected.
With that setup it is possible for current to flow north or south (from the battery or from the alternator) hence the need for protection on both ends.
Personally I don't consider the alt end a 'need'. IMO it is actually overkill.
I don't think you will find any car actually wired that way from the factory. (fused at the alt)
Absolutely true but I really worry about sparks and fire with these old treasures.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on February 03, 2018, 07:58:49 AM
With that setup it is possible for current to flow north or south (from the battery or from the alternator) hence the need for protection on both ends.
Actually not true, once the wire is opened up from the fusible link burning, current can't flow on that path.
Only way that would be needed was if there were 2 different shorts to ground, 1 at battery AND 1 at the alternator.
Quote from: Katfish on February 03, 2018, 09:58:51 AM
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on February 03, 2018, 07:58:49 AM
With that setup it is possible for current to flow north or south (from the battery or from the alternator) hence the need for protection on both ends.
Actually not true, once the wire is opened up from the fusible link burning, current can't flow on that path.
Only way that would be needed was if there were 2 different shorts to ground, 1 at battery AND 1 at the alternator.
If you consider the added wire between the alt and battery, one short on that wire is a short for both sources.
Fuse the battery end, while the alternator does generate power once the fusible link fails the alternator will stop gearing power.. It needs power to make power... A generator will make power without power but an Alternator needs power to excite the field windings....
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on February 03, 2018, 11:08:02 AM
Fuse the battery end, while the alternator does generate power once the fusible link fails the alternator will stop gearing power.. It needs power to make power... A generator will make power without power but an Alternator needs power to excite the field windings....
But what if you leave the existing system alone and add the bypass ?
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on February 03, 2018, 11:08:02 AM
Fuse the battery end, while the alternator does generate power once the fusible link fails the alternator will stop gearing power.. It needs power to make power... A generator will make power without power but an Alternator needs power to excite the field windings....
Very good point
When hooking up the bypass line, is there an existing line that should be disconnected ?
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on February 03, 2018, 11:08:02 AM
while the alternator does generate power once the fusible link fails the alternator will stop gearing power..
Explain please?
The alt will supply power as long as it spins and the regulator is in play. With the fusible link failing, you will just be back to original factory wiring.
Quote from: Racer57 on February 03, 2018, 01:24:54 PM
When hooking up the bypass line, is there an existing line that should be disconnected ?
You do not 'need' to do anything else.
Personally, I would disconnect the ammeter, bolt the two ammeter connections together. Then install a voltmeter to monitor the electrical system.
Quote from: dodj on February 03, 2018, 03:10:08 PM
Quote from: Racer57 on February 03, 2018, 01:24:54 PM
When hooking up the bypass line, is there an existing line that should be disconnected ?
You do not 'need' to do anything else.
Personally, I would disconnect the ammeter, bolt the two ammeter connections together. Then install a voltmeter to monitor the electrical system.
I had the amp-volt conversion done by Redline. Volt gauge reads 15+volts and is confirmed by checking at battery. It was suggested by Redline and others in this forum to try the bypass. If anything, the volts at the battery is reading higher now which is why I asked if anything was suppose to be disconnected. Hey, give me nuts and bolts and I can play all day. This electrical crap ..... :pullinghair: I've cleaned battery posts, checked volt regulator ground and connections. Only thing I have not done is pull the bulk head connector. Its a tight fit by the exhaust manifold and not 100% sure how to pull it apart and what to expect when I try to separate it.
Quote from: Katfish on February 03, 2018, 07:04:44 AM
Once the fusible link blows, path/circuit is open, nowhere for current to flow.
I don't see the need to have on both sides of the wire protected.
No Actually you have power at both ends so if the link blows at either end the wire is still hot & could short again to a ground source ,
The alt output terminal is still powered with the key off & the engine not running as it does connect to the battery through the stock wiring :alan2cents:
The stock wiring has a fusible link that would open in case of short at the alt o/p.
Most folks disconnect the original alternator lead... If you leave it in place than yes that would cause the alternator to still charge...
Could not find 8 gauge at NAPA. etc. Went to local battery shop that I frequent and told them what I was working on and looking for. He asked how how many feet I needed then went to back room. Came back with 8ft of 8 gauge and 6" of wire for the fuse link !! Asked him how much and he said to buy him a beer sometime. Went home, cut wire to length with 3" of fuse wire on both ends (better safe than sorry :D ) soldered everything together and installed it. Volt meter had been pegged and now its dead center. I wish everything worked out this like this. :D
Quote from: Racer57 on February 05, 2018, 07:17:02 PM
Could not find 8 gauge at NAPA. etc. Went to local battery shop that I frequent and told them what I was working on and looking for. He asked how how many feet I needed then went to back room. Came back with 8ft of 8 gauge and 6" of wire for the fuse link !! Asked him how much and he said to buy him a beer sometime. Went home, cut wire to length with 3" of fuse wire on both ends (better safe than sorry :D ) soldered everything together and installed it. Volt meter had been pegged and now its dead center. I wish everything worked out this like this. :D
What terminal connectors did you use? Can you post pics?
Wiring is too tucked away for pic. The connectors are no different than the ones already in use on the alternator and relay. Just generic from Ace etc.
Added the red wire a while back and added the fusible link yesterday.
Normal ring terminals is what I used.