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How to route wire from alternator to starter relay ?

Started by Racer57, February 01, 2018, 11:29:13 AM

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Katfish

Once the fusible link blows,  path/circuit is open, nowhere for current to flow.
I don't see the need to have on both sides of the wire protected.

RUNCHARGER

With that setup it is possible for current to flow north or south (from the battery or from the alternator) hence the need for protection on both ends.
Sheldon

dodj

Personally I don't consider the alt end a 'need'. IMO it is actually overkill.
I don't think you will find any car actually wired that way from the factory. (fused at the alt)
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill


RUNCHARGER

Absolutely true but I really worry about sparks and fire with these old treasures.
Sheldon

Katfish

Quote from: RUNCHARGER on February 03, 2018, 07:58:49 AM
With that setup it is possible for current to flow north or south (from the battery or from the alternator) hence the need for protection on both ends.

Actually not true, once the wire is opened up from the fusible link burning, current can't flow on that path.
Only way that would be needed was if there were 2 different shorts to ground, 1 at battery AND 1 at the alternator.

dodj

Quote from: Katfish on February 03, 2018, 09:58:51 AM
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on February 03, 2018, 07:58:49 AM
With that setup it is possible for current to flow north or south (from the battery or from the alternator) hence the need for protection on both ends.

Actually not true, once the wire is opened up from the fusible link burning, current can't flow on that path.
Only way that would be needed was if there were 2 different shorts to ground, 1 at battery AND 1 at the alternator.
If you consider the added wire between the alt and battery, one short on that wire is a short for both sources.
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

1 Wild R/T

Fuse the battery end, while the alternator does generate power once the fusible link fails the alternator will stop gearing power.. It needs power to make power... A generator will make power without power but an Alternator needs power to excite the field windings....


Racer57

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on February 03, 2018, 11:08:02 AM
Fuse the battery end, while the alternator does generate power once the fusible link fails the alternator will stop gearing power.. It needs power to make power... A generator will make power without power but an Alternator needs power to excite the field windings....
But what if you leave the existing system alone and add the bypass ?

Crash520

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on February 03, 2018, 11:08:02 AM
Fuse the battery end, while the alternator does generate power once the fusible link fails the alternator will stop gearing power.. It needs power to make power... A generator will make power without power but an Alternator needs power to excite the field windings....
Very good point
Greg
Brisbane
Australia

Racer57

When hooking up the bypass line, is there an existing line that should be disconnected ?

dodj

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on February 03, 2018, 11:08:02 AM
while the alternator does generate power once the fusible link fails the alternator will stop gearing power..
Explain please?
The alt will supply power as long as it spins and the regulator is in play. With the fusible link failing, you will just be back to original factory wiring.


"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill


dodj

Quote from: Racer57 on February 03, 2018, 01:24:54 PM
When hooking up the bypass line, is there an existing line that should be disconnected ?
You do not 'need' to do anything else.
Personally, I would disconnect the ammeter, bolt the two ammeter connections together. Then install a voltmeter to monitor the electrical system.
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

Racer57

Quote from: dodj on February 03, 2018, 03:10:08 PM
Quote from: Racer57 on February 03, 2018, 01:24:54 PM
When hooking up the bypass line, is there an existing line that should be disconnected ?
You do not 'need' to do anything else.
Personally, I would disconnect the ammeter, bolt the two ammeter connections together. Then install a voltmeter to monitor the electrical system.
I had the amp-volt conversion done by Redline. Volt gauge reads 15+volts and is confirmed by checking at battery.  It was suggested by Redline and others in this forum to try the bypass. If anything, the volts at the battery is reading higher now which is why I asked if anything was suppose to be disconnected. Hey, give me nuts and bolts and I can play all day. This electrical crap ..... :pullinghair: I've cleaned battery posts, checked volt regulator ground and connections.  Only thing I have not done is pull the bulk head connector. Its a tight fit by the exhaust manifold and not 100% sure how to pull it apart and what to expect when I try to separate it.

Chryco Psycho

Quote from: Katfish on February 03, 2018, 07:04:44 AM
Once the fusible link blows,  path/circuit is open, nowhere for current to flow.
I don't see the need to have on both sides of the wire protected.

No Actually you have power at both ends so if the link blows at either end the wire is still hot & could short again to a ground source ,
The alt output terminal is still powered with the key off & the engine not running as it does connect to the battery through the stock wiring  :alan2cents:

dodj

The stock wiring has a fusible link that would open in case of short at the alt o/p.
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill