Goggle is not nice to me so I'll ask here.
The newer 17" rallye wheels...Anyone have knowledge what the torque specs might be? I need to approach this with caution since I don't need to warp the rotors.
Thanks in advance!
Cody
Yes, the same wheels. My concern would be a different alloy over the factory wheels of yesterday. There some worry, as well, that I could enlarge the hole in the wheel by over-tighting.
I hate to say it. But I never check torque on wheels. As far as I know these wheels didn't come with instructions listing any torque specs. I have been doing it so long I just go by feel and check them every now and then just to make sure nothing has loosened up. But in general aluminum wheels with 1/2 studs are 100 ft lbs. Since they are new wheels with paint on them be sure and recheck after driving it some. The paint might try and move under the lug nuts.
Did you find you needed longer studs ? I know the Wilwood front studs are long enough, but wondering about the stock rear studs. :thinking:
I torque mine to 95 ft/lbs. No problem here. Make sure you have at least 7 full turns on the lug nuts.
Tight ;)
Quote from: anlauto on September 27, 2017, 02:37:06 PM
Did you find you needed longer studs ? I know the Wilwood front studs are long enough, but wondering about the stock rear studs. :thinking:
Actually no. With the lugs nuts that come with them they have a big wide conical mating area. So where the stud comes through the wheel it' a little over twice as thick as a steel wheel. Leaves about 3/4 inch of threads exposed. All the clamping force is spread over a bigger area. Instead of right where the stud comes through.
I drive hard so I use 95 instead of the factory spec. Also I have new rotors and studs. Replacing your 47 year old studs might make sense. Make sure you tighten the lugs with the tire off the ground so you dont warp your rotors. I'm also running Hotchkis' TVS and Dr. Diff brakes and sticky tires.
Thanks for looking up the correct answer and sharing it with us.
I know I'll be saving this info. :bigthumb:
I thought I reqd where 70 was max torque for the 1/2 " studs so I would be scared to stretch the stud too far at 90
90 ft lbs for grade 8 according to this: In another dig for my Chrysler is superior to GM argument I always wondered about 7/16" wheel studs used in GM products, kind of matched their small brakes, 10 and 12 bolt rear axles and such.
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/bolts/US-Recommended-Torque.aspx
Just put mine on. No specs sent so we went 90 lbs.
New shoes on.
Looks Great & Welcome !
Those wheels just look so good on our cars as an upgrade that keeps the original OEM spirit. Welcome
Quote from: CudaMoparRay on November 02, 2017, 12:42:17 AM
Those wheels just look so good on our cars as an upgrade that keeps the original OEM spirit. Welcome
:iagree: Nice reflection off the trim ring. :bigthumb:
Quote from: fc7cuda on November 02, 2017, 05:33:16 AM
Quote from: CudaMoparRay on November 02, 2017, 12:42:17 AM
Those wheels just look so good on our cars as an upgrade that keeps the original OEM spirit. Welcome
:iagree: Nice reflection off the trim ring. :bigthumb:
It's not a trim ring, it's solid aluminum......that's the cool thing ! :drooling:
Quote from: anlauto on November 02, 2017, 05:58:25 AM
Quote from: fc7cuda on November 02, 2017, 05:33:16 AM
Quote from: CudaMoparRay on November 02, 2017, 12:42:17 AM
Those wheels just look so good on our cars as an upgrade that keeps the original OEM spirit. Welcome
:iagree: Nice reflection off the trim ring. :bigthumb:
It's not a trim ring, it's solid aluminum......that's the cool thing ! :drooling:
Most people at car shows rarely catch that they are not factory rally's. Just looking at the car the wheels do look like they have trim rings.
Tantster - :welcome: to E-Bodies and the world of 17s!
Looks like you have a great build going on there!
Do you have more photos to share?
Just got her back from detail shop today.
I've seen original rear brake drums that had a 2 inch wide red paint line on them, which could be seen through the holes in the original rallye wheels.
Can you still see any of the brake drum through the holes on these new larger wheels?
Would it be good to paint that line on the brake drums, or better to leave it off if it only half shows?