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Solved: Torque Spec For Newer Rallye Wheels

Started by Wedg2Go, September 27, 2017, 12:55:35 PM

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Wedg2Go

Goggle is not nice to me so I'll ask here.

The newer 17" rallye wheels...Anyone have knowledge what the torque specs might be? I need to approach this with caution since I don't need to warp the rotors.

Thanks in advance!

Cuda Cody

These are the ones that Year One sells, right?  I think @Shane Kelley  is running those.  My thought is if you are using the same studs as factory, then they should be the same torque?  Right?   :notsure:

Wedg2Go

Cody

Yes, the same wheels. My concern would be a different alloy over the factory wheels of yesterday. There some worry, as well, that I could enlarge the hole in the wheel by over-tighting.



Shane Kelley

I hate to say it. But I never check torque on wheels. As far as I know these wheels didn't come with instructions listing any torque specs. I have been doing it so long I just go by feel and check them every now and then just to make sure nothing has loosened up. But in general aluminum wheels with 1/2 studs are 100 ft lbs. Since they are new wheels with paint on them be sure and recheck after driving it some. The paint might try and move under the lug nuts.

anlauto

Did you find you needed longer studs ? I know the Wilwood front studs are long enough, but wondering about the stock rear studs. :thinking:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

61K T/A

I torque mine to 95 ft/lbs. No problem here. Make sure you have at least 7 full turns on the lug nuts.

anlauto

I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


Shane Kelley

Quote from: anlauto on September 27, 2017, 02:37:06 PM
Did you find you needed longer studs ? I know the Wilwood front studs are long enough, but wondering about the stock rear studs. :thinking:
Actually no. With the lugs nuts that come with them they have a big wide conical mating area. So where the stud comes through the wheel it' a little over twice as thick as a steel wheel. Leaves about 3/4 inch of threads exposed. All the clamping force is spread over a bigger area. Instead of right where the stud comes through.

61K T/A

#8
I drive hard so I use 95 instead of the factory spec. Also I have new rotors and studs. Replacing your 47 year old studs might make sense. Make sure you tighten the lugs with the tire off the ground so you dont warp your rotors. I'm also running Hotchkis' TVS and Dr. Diff brakes and sticky tires.

cataclysm80

Thanks for looking up the correct answer and sharing it with us.
I know I'll be saving this info.   :bigthumb:

Chryco Psycho

I thought I reqd where 70 was max torque for the 1/2 " studs so I would be scared to stretch the stud too far at 90


RUNCHARGER

90 ft lbs for grade 8 according to this: In another dig for my Chrysler is superior to GM argument I always wondered about 7/16" wheel studs used in GM products, kind of matched their small brakes, 10 and 12 bolt rear axles and such.

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/bolts/US-Recommended-Torque.aspx
Sheldon

Tantster

Just put mine on. No specs sent so we went 90 lbs.

Chryco Psycho


Cuda Cody