Can't wait to see this one come together! Not sure you've seen this but maybe some ideas here.
:cool: :ohyeah:
Rock 'em ! :banana:
:wrenching: :ohyeah: Nice!
Quote from: moparmadman69 on August 23, 2018, 08:45:07 AM
Quote from: Burdar on August 23, 2018, 08:24:20 AM
Here is what I want my 68 to look like...
Hmmmmmm......looks like you are onto something. IMO the 68 Dart was the best looking of all the a-bodies. I like where you are headed with this.
Oh hell ya!!! That looks great! What kind of suspension are you looking into?
Cool :wrenching: :banana:
QuoteWhat kind of suspension are you looking into?
I can't afford anything crazy. It will just be large torsion bars, reinforced K and LCAs, upgraded rear springs and high quality shocks. It definitely needs the frame tied together too.
I've been going back and forth with what style frame connectors to use. I originally wanted to use a bolt-on connector since I really have a hard time making permanent mods to these cars. The MP bolt on connectors interfere with the parking brake cable and the factory torque boxes. Other styles of bolt on connector are super high dollar. The US CarTool ones look nice and I almost bought a set. Then I realized that the brake/fuel lines on an A-body have to run through the same area. There would be no way to install the lines in one piece after those connectors are welded on. I'm now thinking I'll just buy some rectangular tubing and having that welded in.
Looks sweet!
A few more pictures of when I brought it home and a little more history...
The car was originally from Nevada. I believe a younger gal was the original owner. I'll have to look back at my paperwork be positive. I could definitely tell this car didn't spend its entire life in Iowa. I think I only broke one bolt during the disassembly. I lost count of how many fasteners broke while disassembling my Challenger.
At some point the car was sold and came to Iowa. The new owners had the seats reupholstered but either lost interest or other things got in the way. Unfortunately the car sat for quite awhile in a lean-to with the top down. That didn't keep the weather off the car...at least not for very long. The interior was in very poor shape when I bought it. The person I bought the car from said a raccoon jumped out of the trunk at him when he opened it for the first time. The carpet had been removed before I got the car but you could tell that the interior had gotten really wet. The floor was covered in a layer of rust, the seat springs looked really rusty and the smell was pretty bad. The void between the trunk extensions and 1/4 panels was completely filled with dirt. The space between the rocker and 1/4 panel(directly under the 1/4 windows)was completely filled with dirt as well.
(https://s20.postimg.cc/72ude6qx9/dart140_zpsc093f259.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s20.postimg.cc/m90f54gy5/dart139_zps83dc1a3e.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s20.postimg.cc/66xvyqh8t/dart105_zpsb6835153.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Door strikers on both sides were broken.(typical on A-bodies)
(https://s20.postimg.cc/cpqqbntfx/dart119_zps66694e3a.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Spare tire well had a good layer of rust in it but surprisingly it was solid with no holes.
(https://s20.postimg.cc/638nw8159/dart228_zps2276f2f2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Engine compartment didn't look too bad after being hosed down.
(https://s20.postimg.cc/y1y89cde5/dart017_zps1e8c0cf3.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Capacities and tune-up specs were printed on a label maker and affixed to the firewall.
(https://s20.postimg.cc/sgbt5acp9/dart080_zps40bc3bbb.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
:popcorn: :banana: :popcorn:
Quote from: Burdar on August 23, 2018, 10:45:23 AM
QuoteWhat kind of suspension are you looking into?
I can't afford anything crazy. It will just be large torsion bars, reinforced K and LCAs, upgraded rear springs and high quality shocks. It definitely needs the frame tied together too.
I've been going back and forth with what style frame connectors to use. I originally wanted to use a bolt-on connector since I really have a hard time making permanent mods to these cars. The MP bolt on connectors interfere with the parking brake cable and the factory torque boxes. Other styles of bolt on connector are super high dollar. The US CarTool ones look nice and I almost bought a set. Then I realized that the brake/fuel lines on an A-body have to run through the same area. There would be no way to install the lines in one piece after those connectors are welded on. I'm now thinking I'll just buy some rectangular tubing and having that welded in.
Just a thought, if you use the USCT connectors just reroute your fuel & brake lines to stay inboard of the connectors... The reason the factory ran the lines out to the rocker are was to protect the lines if the car high centered...... The frame connectors would protect the lines just as well..... I realize that means the stock drop in lines won't fit anymore but honestly they are pretty easy to fabricate & the money saved by buying bulk line rather that prefabbed will offset the cost of the USCT connectors....
You would still need to deal with the parking brake cable but that shouldn't be to tough...
All new stainless lines were purchased a few years ago. I think the easiest thing is just to make some with rectangular tubing. Someone here posted pictures of their setup. They ran the tubing into the front and rear frame instead of just welding it to the outside. With good looking welds I think it will look fine. That will leave some space above them to get the lines in. Still thinking about it though. I just hate welding on a permanent piece. I know it's just a 318 car a no one will ever want to bring it back completely stock but it's still a convertible.
Which probably needs subframe connectors more than any other body style.... And they need to be effective which bolt in vs welded compromises..... Forget the concern, weld them in.... :alan2cents:
:iagree: it needs to be done.
That USCT picture shows something at the shackle mount. I didn't know they made something for that area. I'll have to see what that is.
Quote from: Burdar on August 23, 2018, 12:04:10 PM
I think the easiest thing is just to make some with rectangular tubing. Someone here posted pictures of their setup. They ran the tubing into the front and rear frame instead of just welding it to the outside. With good looking welds I think it will look fine. That will leave some space above them to get the lines in. Still thinking about it though. I just hate welding on a permanent piece. I know it's just a 318 car a no one will ever want to bring it back completely stock but it's still a convertible.
I added rectangular tubing connectors to my '69 Sport Satty vert and it made a big difference. Even though it had TQ boxes, the car still flexed and now it is so much more solid. I add these subframe connectors to my Charger and Cuda as well. Best bang for your buck! I have some pics here - https://forum.e-bodies.org/general-topics/7/frame-stiffening/6060/msg85435#msg85435
Quote from: Burdar on August 23, 2018, 03:51:06 PM
:iagree: it needs to be done.
That USCT picture shows something at the shackle mount. I didn't know they made something for that area. I'll have to see what that is.
They (USCT) are now selling a kit to move the springs inboard inline with the frame rails.... Basically the same thing Direct Connection sold in the 60's..... It moves the springs in 3" per side... In the 70's it was the trick thing to get big tires under the car but honestly these days if you want that much tire you probably should be looking at back halfing the car.... (4 link)....
I really like where you're going with this. I love Darts and they are just nice and simple. Great lines! Always one of my favorites. Please keep us updated as this will be great!
Do weld in the SFCs, they need it especially in a vert.
Wes
The USCT connectors that are cut to join to the floor pan look like they belong there when done properly. :perfect10:
QuoteI added rectangular tubing connectors to my '69 Sport Satty vert and it made a big difference. Even though it had TQ boxes, the car still flexed and now it is so much more solid. I add these subframe connectors to my Charger and Cuda as well. Best bang for your buck! I have some pics here - https://forum.e-bodies.org/general-topics/7/frame-stiffening/6060/msg85435#msg85435
I thought it was you that did that. Thanks for the link. I think this is probably the best way to go at this point. I can still use the pre-bend stainless lines this way. I can also just go down the street from where I work and get the tubing. I'll have to do some measuring but I think I've seen people use 2x3 tubing too. Will 2x3 not fit inside the rear frame?
QuoteThey (USCT) are now selling a kit to move the springs inboard inline with the frame rails
Ok, that's what that is. I was thinking it was something to strengthen the shackle mount. Thanks!
Quote from: nsmall on August 24, 2018, 09:24:30 PM
Always enjoy watching your skills at work. He @Brads70 (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/brads70_12) how about a couple pics of your home made sub frame connectors with the circles for another idea for Darren here?
Darren, I like how you went all out for stock on your 73 challenger and now you are just having fun and doing your own thing this time around. Always been a fan of 67-69 darts, Love the straight lines on the tail panel vs later years.
Not to spoil later parts of your thread here, but didn't you already build the engine? Im thinking I saw some engine candy pics some time ago :thinking:
I used 1x2 ( 1/8th wall stock) square tubing but with 1" round tubing welded in every 6" . I found that by welding in the round tubing it greatly reduced the flex torsionaly . I put it in my bridgeport vise and then with a large adjustable wrench tried to twist it before and after welding in the tubing. I was really surprised at how well the round tubing worked to make it much stronger for very little effort and cost. I REALLY recommend doing this with whatever style of SFC you chose. 303Mopar's method of installing them right through the torsion bar crossmember and into the rear frame rail is best/strongest. If I had it to do over again I would have cut into the frame, but when I was building my car I had this self imposed rule to not to do anything that couldn't be easily undone. I figured a couple hours could have them removed, welds ground down and you would never know they were there. I don't really stick to that rule anymore.... it is just a /6 car and will never be worth and serious money. That and I built the car for ME , not someone else!
They make a HUGE difference! I can jack the car up at the front or rear between the wheels and the whole car comes off the ground , pretty much at the same time. It for sure didn't do that before. I'd say off all the mods I made to my car to make it stiffer , the SFC are by far the most effective. They are smaller than other styles at 1x2 , making "packaging" easier, but make a huge difference. Literally cost me like $20 bucks! I suspect my design is just as strong as the US car tool design
( which I had bought , then sold) but without all the work of fitting it to the floor and all that welding :alan2cents:
Quote from: Burdar on August 24, 2018, 07:27:07 AM
I thought it was you that did that. Thanks for the link. I think this is probably the best way to go at this point. I can still use the pre-bend stainless lines this way. I can also just go down the street from where I work and get the tubing. I'll have to do some measuring but I think I've seen people use 2x3 tubing too. Will 2x3 not fit inside the rear frame?
I'm not sure the 2x3 will fit because you still want good material left on frame rail. The 2x2 slides inside the frame rail and we did a rosette type weld on the drain hole as well as the outside to hold it in place.
What wall thickness did you use 303?
I like your idea Brad. I can see that adding a lot of strength. It looks pretty cool too.
Just got under the car and did some measuring. 2" is too tall to slide in the rear frame and still clear the floor pan. It looks like 1x2 it is. Probably 12 gauge like the USCT ones. 4' of tubing should work per side. That's long enough to go inside the torsion bar x-member and cover the drain hole in back.
Picked up the steel for the frame connectors today. 8' of 1x2 (.125 wall) rectangular tubing and 2' of 1" OD round tubing $28.89
That first cut into the frame rail is going to be tough to make lol. I'm most worried about getting the rectangular hole in the right spot on the angled frame. if I'm too high I can always lower it but then there will be a gap on top. Just going to have to take my time. Need to finish up the project I'm working on now before starting on these though.
Thanks for the idea and pics Brad!
Thanks for bringing it over here.
I will be following. Good stuff for sure. Connectors will be in my future.
Mike.
Very cool car!
Following. :popcorn: :popcorn:
Since I want the front really low, I picked up a used set of Magnumforce 2" drop spindles. I've seen people lower their A-bodies a lot with stock spindles but it puts the UBJ at a really sharp angle. I was worried about a UBJ failure at that angle so these drip spindles should help with that. The only unknown is if I'll be able to fit the wheels I want with them. With a stock spindle you can run a lot of backspacing to where the tie rod is actually inside the wheel. With the drop spindle, you are limited with how much backspace you can run before the tie rod hits the wheel lip/tire. Just a quick measurement, it looks like 5" backspace is going to be the max. The 73+ spindle already increases the track width of the 72 and earlier cars. I don't have a lot of room before I'll hit the wheel lip. I need to buy one of those wheel fitment tools to really see what I can and can't fit up front.
(https://s20.postimg.cc/lmc2t7dn1/DSCN2365_zps20b49597.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I made a stand to store the suspension/engine/trans on and still be able to move it around the garage as needed. Here is the partially assembled K on the stand.
(https://s20.postimg.cc/4js5017f1/DSCN2586_zpsd28ea83b.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s20.postimg.cc/ieqfii1u5/DSCN2584_zps4c769aca.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Wow that is nice looking. Details....
Mike
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/d/1968-barracuda-convert/6682395688.html Thought of you Burdar. Parts are looking great Darren.
Nice work Darren :bradsthumb:
WOW that is nice work.
Nice.
Keeps getting better & better..... Gonna be a sweet convertible when your done...
That's a clean convertible.
Are you going to remove the leftover undercoat at some point ? :bigthumb:
Wow Darren great job at bringing all those pieces back to life.
One thing on the oil catch is that it would be cool to sit a sight window near the top to know when to drain the oil. Otherwise you can just check it periodically.
:twothumbsup:
Quote from: HP_Cuda on November 23, 2018, 11:55:45 AM
Wow Darren great job at bringing all those pieces back to life.
One thing on the oil catch is that it would be cool to sit a sight window near the top to know when to drain the oil. Otherwise you can just check it periodically.
:twothumbsup:
Take another look... He's way ahead of ya...
Darren - really nice work on the Dart. You and @brads70 have this great knack for fabricating whatever you need or want for an upgrade. Your explanations are consistently thorough.
At an earlier time in life, I'd probably have to admit to myself that I was jealous of your skills... now I can say I'm impressed.
Thanks for sharing so much.
Nice missed that.
Darren, the body looks great after sand blasting. Your original pictures suggested rust might have been a bigger problem. Glad that it turned out good.
I am running oil catch cans in my cars too and I am using the one made by Mr. Gasket for my 73. Both of my oil catch cans have the SS mesh and divider at the upper 1/3 of the can only. The bottom 2/3 part of the can is just open oil collecting space and can be threaded off to empty the oil or drained by opening a valve at the bottom. Looking at your pictures, I am not sure how far the SS mesh is into the can but I do see a solid divider to near the tank bottom. I am just thinking air from the inlet side can go to the outlet side with the slightly elevated perforated bottom plate. However, when oil starts collecting and goes above the perforated plate, the catch can would be oil logged and stop the air from passing from one side to the other? May be shorten the divider and elevated the perforated bottom plate higher and drain oil before oil level is up to the bottom plate?
Very nice work Darren. :twothumbsup:
I would have expected nothing less from you. :bravo:
Jim
QuoteLooking at your pictures, I am not sure how far the SS mesh is into the can but I do see a solid divider to near the tank bottom.
The picture is a little deceiving. The canister is pretty tall and the mesh extends up into the cap as well. There is a lot of room below the mesh. It's been awhile since I made it so I don't remember exactly how far down the mesh is into the canister but I don't think it's even 1/3 of the way. I had the same thought as you. As soon as the oil gets up close to the mesh, the system will stop flowing very well. Hopefully I notice the oil level and get it drained way before it gets close. :bigthumb:
QuoteDarren, the body looks great after sand blasting. Your original pictures suggested rust might have been a bigger problem. Glad that it turned out good.
I was worried too. The only place where there was a hole in the floor was the front passengers side. It was only about 1/4" wide by 1" long. The floor was covered in surface rust from the top being down for years. However, under the sill plates was bare, clean, rust free metal. It was weird. The thin metal wiring covers on either side of the rockers are all rusted out. Replacements are super expensive for what they are. I'll probably just make something myself.
QuoteYou and @brads70 have this great knack for fabricating whatever you need or want for an upgrade. Your explanations are consistently thorough.
At an earlier time in life, I'd probably have to admit to myself that I was jealous of your skills... now I can say I'm impressed.
Brad's on a whole other level. I'm just lucky to have talented people on here to bounce ideas off of and a father-in-law that has a lathe and a mill.
QuoteAre you going to remove the leftover undercoat at some point ?
Not sure about that. The shop said it was super thick and it was just eating up a lot of sand so they stopped. The wheel wells are the only areas where they left any. The entire underside was stripped. The wheel wells will get undercoated again so I'm not sure it's really necessary. The jury is still out on that. Before it goes back to the body shop for final paint, I might just get the heat gun out and scrape it off.
Looking good Burdar, keep em coming.
I love my Champion rad, sucker never gets hot. I cannot get it over 185 degrees even on a hot day!
Very nice bracketry!
That is a nice starting point the body looks really solid , so what ya been doing ?
It's almost been a year, come on, show us something. :popcorn:
The rear interior panels are pretty rough. Layson's makes replacements for $700. I was going to try and fix mine but I think I'll just bite the bullet and buy new. There is a chrome trim piece in the panels as well. The reproductions aren't very nice(per Layson's own description) and they are an extra $100. They didn't look that complicated so I made my own replacements.
I started out by using a ball mill to make some concave grooves in a piece of aluminum. With the grooves machined, I cut the piece into strips and started sanding. Once polished they look very close to the originals. The only difference is these new pieces are about twice the thickness of the originals. I need that thickness so I can drill/tap and install some mounting studs to the back side. The grooves in the interior panels are deep so the extra thickness isn't really noticeable. I think they turned out really nice.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Kj0VCmq3/20200620-105428.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WqJXkcPs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gk0186jV/20200703-215109.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s1tnRxpx)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sfmtMJjf/20200703-215055.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3WyL6m0z)
That's really excellent work, very cool :twothumbsup:
Nice work on the under tray panel. Well done.
Awsome to see another that steps into machining what they need/want.
Nice work there.
Thanks for posting it up over here.
That's nice work, well done. If you end up with time on your hands, I'm sure there'd be a market for stuff like you just did. May aid with the money situation you mentioned before. Good job! :bigthumb:
As always, looking awesome brother!!! :bradsthumb:
Nice work! Looks fantastic! :bradsthumb:
I set the engine wiring harness in place so I can get a feel for how everything is going to be routed. I need to make some small brackets to hold the wiring as it runs across the passengers side valve cover. My valve covers are fabricated aluminum and don't have any tabs to hold the wiring. The attaching bolts are 4 or 5" long and go in from the top so I can't attach anything to those. I'm thinking about using a couple of the intake attaching bolts but I haven't figured that out yet. I'd entertain some pictures of custom brackets that anyone has made to get some ideas.
I started wiring up the Denso alternator. I bought the correct plug for the back of it so the wiring will look stock(ish). It looks like I have plenty of wire and can actually remove one of the wiring tabs on the firewall. Right now it sits above the PS valve cover and doesn't really make sense where it is. That will clean up the PS firewall a little bit.
The DS firewall is a little cluttered. The voltage regulator and ballast resistor are next to the master cylinder and pretty visible. I was initially going to put them back on even though I don't need them. The Denso alternator is internally regulated and the Pertronix coil doesn't need a ballast. I made a hidden jumper wire for the back of the voltage regulator to bypass it and was going to do the same for the ballast but now I'm second guessing that. Now that I have the wiring harness in, I think I might just do away with them and clean up the firewall some more.
Is there any reason why I can't just connect the two ballast wires together with a jumper and hide that in some harness wrap?(I'm going to wrap the harness anyway) I'd do the same with the VR wiring. Is there a cleaner way of doing it? I'm not sure I want to start cutting and modifying a brand new harness but I might.
Quote from: Burdar on July 29, 2020, 09:02:01 PM
I set the engine wiring harness in place so I can get a feel for how everything is going to be routed. I need to make some small brackets to hold the wiring as it runs across the passengers side valve cover. My valve covers are fabricated aluminum and don't have any tabs to hold the wiring. The attaching bolts are 4 or 5" long and go in from the top so I can't attach anything to those. I'm thinking about using a couple of the intake attaching bolts but I haven't figured that out yet. I'd entertain some pictures of custom brackets that anyone has made to get some ideas.
I started wiring up the Denso alternator. I bought the correct plug for the back of it so the wiring will look stock(ish). It looks like I have plenty of wire and can actually remove one of the wiring tabs on the firewall. Right now it sits above the PS valve cover and doesn't really make sense where it is. That will clean up the PS firewall a little bit.
The DS firewall is a little cluttered. The voltage regulator and ballast resistor are next to the master cylinder and pretty visible. I was initially going to put them back on even though I don't need them. The Denso alternator is internally regulated and the Pertronix coil doesn't need a ballast. I made a hidden jumper wire for the back of the voltage regulator to bypass it and was going to do the same for the ballast but now I'm second guessing that. Now that I have the wiring harness in, I think I might just do away with them and clean up the firewall some more.
Is there any reason why I can't just connect the two ballast wires together with a jumper and hide that in some harness wrap?(I'm going to wrap the harness anyway) I'd do the same with the VR wiring. Is there a cleaner way of doing it? I'm not sure I want to start cutting and modifying a brand new harness but I might.
Yes for hiding it in the wrap. Cannot answer about connecting the ballast wires. If hiding in wrap will not fit, then you can only expose a short piece of that wire and connector. To minimize bulk on a couple of mine I removed the plastic outer to connector and then used shrink wrap over it. Some were with double wrap.
Mike.
Instead of "looping" a jumper wire I was thinking about cutting off the factory connector and twisting the wires together. If I do that, how do you terminate that splice cleanly? Will heat shrink tubing still work there? Will the end of the tubing that's sticking out past the splice melt together and seal itself?
Quote from: Burdar on July 30, 2020, 05:39:38 AM
Instead of "looping" a jumper wire I was thinking about cutting off the factory connector and twisting the wires together. If I do that, how do you terminate that splice cleanly? Will heat shrink tubing still work there? Will the end of the tubing that's sticking out past the splice melt together and seal itself?
Generally no it only shrinks so far.
What I do when the connector is off is to fold the wire in half. Then put shrink tubing over that. Will leave the wire bend slightly exposed. The cutoff end is then hidden inside shrink wrap. Prevents exposed ends but is not 100% water tight. If you need that, then use liquid electrical tape.
QuoteGenerally no it only shrinks so far.
What I do when the connector is off is to fold the wire in half. Then put shrink tubing over that. Will leave the wire bend slightly exposed. The cutoff end is then hidden inside shrink wrap. Prevents exposed ends but is not 100% water tight. If you need that, then use liquid electrical tape.
Makes perfect sense. That's why I didn't think of it. With the wiring connectors cut off, that eliminates a lot of the "bulkiness". That's what I plan to do then. I can fill the VR holes in the firewall too. I've been looking for a good place to run the convertible top relay wiring through the firewall. The ballast bolt hole looks like the cleanest place now. Thanks!
Thanks for the pictures. That really helps!
I talked to the body shop a week ago and unfortunately, they can't get the car in this fall for paint. They had some people quit which put them behind. It looks like next summer is the soonest it could possibly go in for paint. I'm still working on some wiring modifications but between changing my mind on how I want to do it and USPS taking their sweet time to deliver things, it's slow going. I did get a good start on a big project over the weekend though. It's not nearly done but I'm excited about it so I thought I'd share before I'm actually done with it.
I want to run a tach in the Dart but I don't want to mount one on the steering column, A-pillar or on top of the dash. I want it to look somewhat factory and since this isn't a race car, the tach doesn't need to be huge and "in your face." If you wanted a tach in 68, it came mounted on the console. Originals are very expensive. I found a listing from 2018 for $550 and even that one had some pitting in the housing. They also only came with a black face. Since I'm changing the gauge faces to white, I want the tach to match. So, I decided to make my own housing and install an aftermarket tach inside.
I had a 2.75" Autometer tach sitting on the shelf from a project I started years ago. Since I already have it, I might as well use it. The tach is designed to be installed into a dash opening so there is no mounting body on it.(perfect for what I want to do) I started with a $25 solid chunk of 3.5" diameter aluminum but before I made my first cut, I made a rough template of the finished product to work off of.
(https://i.postimg.cc/qMqSg1pc/20200724-194100.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jLVZFQwC)
After getting the length cut to the size I wanted, the aluminum was mounted in the mill and a boring bar was used to remove material from the center. That was very slow going work. After maxing out the adjustment of the boring bar it was time to move to the lathe to finish the inside diameter so the tach insert would fit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bNCB0C4j/tach1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qzKw4Lkm)
Once the tach fit and I was confident I had enough wiring clearance on the inside, I flipped the piece around and machined a bevel on the back. I went 1/4" deep on the back end and tapered it to nothing over a 2" distance.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5NNrCd73/tach2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8s9423VJ)
Then it was back to the mill to machine the "flat" for the mounting base.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fyMrC6wM/tach3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZmkCvZc)
I made a template of the machined "flat" area and made a base out of 1/2" aluminum. Here's how it sits. Not an exact copy of the original but it still has an original "feel" to it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/763RgxrB/tach4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KkYQbhzL)
After making my template, I was worried that the shifter wasn't going to clear the tach. The aftermarket shifter sits way farther forward then the stock shifter. After installing a spare top plate and putting the shifter in place, there shouldn't be any clearance issues although it's tight. So, I have a lot of sanding and polishing to do but it's coming along. I'll need to hog out some material on the inside where I want to run the wiring but that should be doable. Right now my plan is to use a large diameter attaching stud and drill out the center of it to run the wiring through it and into the inside of the console.
(https://i.postimg.cc/4ywFSBdV/tach5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N294y8Rj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/59mGyN3y/tach6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SjJVt4Hb)
(https://i.postimg.cc/k43Z62z6/tach7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rdjg7w8M)
That is very cool.
Nice to see others step into the machining aspects of modifying their projects. :drinkingbud:
I agree, awesome idea and execution.
Great job!!! :banana: :bradsthumb:
Wow! That is super nice! Great job! :twothumbsup:
looks cool. :bigthumb:
ALOT of machining. 24 bucks worth of your 25 dollar piece of aluminium on the floor?
QuoteALOT of machining. 24 bucks worth of your 25 dollar piece of aluminium on the floor?
Pretty much. It's about 5" in length overall. 3" of it are hollowed out for the tach. Still well worth it though IMO. A few years ago I found a factory base with no tach in it. Even that was $50 and who knows if I could find an aftermarket tach that would fit inside of it.
That looks really nice! Well done! :bravo:
Yea, I really like that :twothumbsup:
Spot on. :clapping:
Without having to go back and read the whole thread, have you made a final decision on the colour ? How long do you figure the paint job will take ?
Never good to rush a body shop, that's for sure....Car's going to look beautiful :drooling: :banana:
Here's something I started working on a few years ago. I wanted to make some custom panels for the trunk but I wanted to keep it fairly simple and light. I started out with the rear panel by the trunk striker as it seemed like the most complicated.
The striker and striker bracket don't sit level...they slope up to the front of the car. To make the panel I used 2 pieces of 1/4" MDF with a 2x2 on the inside corner to attach the two pieces. Running the 2x2 through the table saw and cutting a bevel on one end gave me the angle I needed once the two pieces were attached. The top face of the back panel now slopes up and matches the angle of the striker. The front face of the rear panel is perpendicular to the trunk floor. After trimming the back of the panel to follow the curve of the trunk opening, I used a router to "round over" the front edge so it wasn't a sharp transition.
To hold the panel in place, I attached a small piece of 2x4 to the striker bracket using rivnuts in the bracket for attachment. The 2x4 then has a couple threaded wood inserts in it so the panel can be secured with (2) 1/4x20 screws.
To keep everything as light as possible, I used 1/2" MDF for the trunk floor instead of 3/4. I cut out a hole in the center so the factory spare tire "cup/wingnut" could hold it in place. The main center panel is made from 1/4" MDF and the side panels are made with 1/8".(then reinforced on the back side to make them stronger)
It took awhile to figure out how to do the main center panel because of where the fuel filler tube is located. I thought about making that panel with a curve in it to clear the filler tube but abandoned that idea quickly. In the end I decided to make a flat panel but lay it back at an angle. A 2x2 screwed to the MDF trunk floor with a bevel on it locates the bottom of the panel. The top of the panel lays against the ledge under the trunk lip. The top of the side panels sit against the same ledge under the trunk lip. The bottom of those is held in place by a strip of wood screwed to the MDF floor.
Here's what the basic panel layout looked like before I started adding more details to them. I primed the rear panel by the striker. That isn't part of the body.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jdCfQDcz/DSC04082.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BX9tJQd6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rsZr2TV0/DSC04080.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/H85xbf7d)
Darren that looks amazing! Top notch work right there! :clapping:
Wow. I like it!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Playing around with different looks for the hood inserts. The inserts I got with the car were badly repainted and pitted. I blasted them to remove the paint and chrome. I hand sanded the top lip and was able to get all the pits out. Surprisingly the pot metal actually polished up really nice. I sprayed a texture on the sides followed by some silver and clear. I painted inside the scoop opening the same color as the engine.
The insert base is chromed with the center painted black. The chrome has miniscule pits all over it so something needs to be done to make it presentable. I bought some cheap generic carbon fiber vinyl to do a test with. It looks cool from a distance but the vinyl doesn't conform to all the tight bends and lifts in the corners. Maybe a quality 3M vinyl would work better but I think now I'm just leaning towards painting them with wrinkle paint. I could conceivably still add some of the carbon fiber vinyl to the bottom but not wrap it around the corners. Then you'd see the vinyl through the insert openings.
If it doesn't end up looking cool, I'll just buy the reproductions and be done with it. You never know what might look cool until you try it. :dunno:
(https://i.postimg.cc/PqYBTNTB/20200531-171222.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WDp97NDn)
Lookin good. I've been really happy with that LED volt gauge
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Like the dash!
I've always thought those wide rectangular speedo's with the, like, 5:1 aspect ratio were the coolest. :bigthumb:
Fantastic job on the vert top mechanism restoration!
What does the drill powered paint strip device look like? It did a fantastic job.
They look like this...
https://www.amazon.com/3M-03172-Rust-Paint-Stripper/dp/B00397MC5C/ref=asc_df_B00397MC5C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=344088687793&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14727174208085261297&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018554&hvtargid=pla-798829226327&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=70731225833&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=344088687793&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14727174208085261297&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018554&hvtargid=pla-798829226327
I did put some 100 grit paper on an electric sander and went over the header after using the paint stripping wheel.
Wow that looks fantastic Darren, I've got two of them to do....what's your address .. :D
Quote from: Burdar on August 01, 2021, 05:51:01 AM
They look like this...
https://www.amazon.com/3M-03172-Rust-Paint-Stripper/dp/B00397MC5C/ref=asc_df_B00397MC5C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=344088687793&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14727174208085261297&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018554&hvtargid=pla-798829226327&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=70731225833&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=344088687793&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14727174208085261297&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018554&hvtargid=pla-798829226327
I did put some 100 grit paper on an electric sander and went over the header after using the paint stripping wheel.
I have seen those strippers, but have not tried them. I will have to give them a whirl.
Beautiful work as usual.
Clean and tasteful.
Good work Darren. Glad to see you continue to progress on the car.
Very nice work Darren! That console came back from the dead! :yes:
Fantastic Work Darren. :clapping: You should be in the parts restoration business.
Beautiful and satisfying work Darren :worship: , by that I mean, you must get great satisfaction every time your hard work to a component turns out as nice as that. :drooling: :twothumbsup:
Nice! I could use a pair those for the 67, mine have 6x9 hole cut outs.
Who is Layson's, didnt know about them, do they make ebody vert panels also? thx
Quote from: Jocigar on September 10, 2021, 12:09:47 PM
Nice! I could use a pair those for the 67, mine have 6x9 hole cut outs.
Who is Layson's, didnt know about them, do they make ebody vert panels also? thx
Layson's is one of the originals, and likely one of the oldest Mopar vendors out there... https://www.laysons.com/ (with the worst website :rofl: )
No E Body panels from them, they don't even carry the Palco ones... :headbang:
Went to the shop this morning and test fit the interior panels. The DS fit ok but the PS needs some work. The back of the door brushes the leading edge of the interior panel. The leading edge looks like it bows out a little bit. I suggested heading up the panel, putting a wooden block on the edge and tapping it with a hammer to push it back a little. The bodyshop owner said that would probably work OR we could take a little bit of material off the pinchweld to let the panel slide back some.
Car is starting to coming along nicely. They have the door gaps much nicer and are well on their way to getting it straight. Should be put on the rotisserie to work on the botton side in a couple weeks. I dropped off the bumpers/brackets and the stainless trim that goes around the back opening for them to test fit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/DZNkpBFb/thumbnail-IMG-7476-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9RynrPDW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vDFRbT4Y/DSC04609-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p5ZcB2Q4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Bb1WrHQ7/DSC04608-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/q60ZntK2)
Trying to learn.. did they spot weld the edge of the door to add material and close the gap ?
Yes. On my Challenger they welded a small rod to the back of the doors and then ground it back to get the gap right. I assume the same thing was done on the Dart. The Dart has a fixed cowl that adds complexity as well. The top of the door, cowl and fender all have to match.
Nice progress.
Too bad about the colour. Looks good to me...but if it's not the colour you want. sucks.
Maybe have them mix a small amount and spray it on a piece of primed scrap metal? :dunno:
Looking great my brother. I love the attention to detail.
Tried watching your video but access denied.... Says it's private
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrOlEqRnY_I
My uncle had an Electric Blue Road Runner back in '68 ,,
The color was more like this than many that show up on the web.
(https://forum.e-bodies.org/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dodgecharger.com%2Fforum%2Findex.php%3FPHPSESSID%3Dq0bf0bnpkj7r1nerkd9tjtu2b4%26amp%3Baction%3Ddlattach%3Btopic%3D12822.0%3Battach%3D19551%3Bimage&hash=0b594d0522dd8f69da07e6866824fd31dce613c1)
Probably a little less green
(https://img.hmn.com/fit-in/900x506/filters:upscale()/stories/2017/09/RoadRunner_3500.jpg)
(https://topclassiccarsforsale.com/uploads/photoalbum/1969-dodge-charger-500-bright-blue-metallic-hardtop-426-hemi-v8-4-speed-manual-1.jpg)
Sucks about the shade of blue, a spray-out card might have come in handy ;)
QuoteMy uncle had an Electric Blue Road Runner back in '68 ,,
The color was more like this than many that show up on the web.
We left original paint on the A-pillars so we could match it. It's darker then what you show there. It's hard to judge a picture onlline because the color changes so much in different lighting. They did a sprayout years ago and the color matched good then. That paint line is no longer available so they had to start over. I'm not a body man so I'm not going to comment on how each person/shop does things. The engine compartment(and trunk) sprayouts weren't meant to be the final spray. The invoice says "Apply blue paint to trunk and engine bay to seal it off." When they sprayed the color in the trunk, the inside of the 1/4's didn't have any undercoating on them yet.
Sprayout from years ago. No flash on top...with flash on bottom.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SxGn8mw2/DSCN2550_zpsd6ded31f.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/L8VVXKDv/DSCN2551_zpsa15ff653.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Just comparing those two photos I would say the 1st is the more accurate shade but the 2nd more closely reflects the tint. Crazy how lighting & even the background can impact what we see, even the primer looks totally different.
The earlier photos you posted appear to be a much darker blue.
Made a little montage... last photo,bottom right, seems to be spot on
:iagree:
That drain plug is an excellent idea! :bigthumb:
Been working on finding the right paint color for the last month. Everything has been too light. Tried multiple different paint lines and :thumbdown: Even resprayed some left over paint from 2014 and sent it to the paint supplier. They used their paint spectrophotometer and took a picture of the sprayout...still couldn't get it right. Finally, last week they found a different brand that matches but had to drive into Illinois to find it. Sprayout at the very top is how everything else has been coming out.(too light) The ones in the middle are the old sprayout and the new one that matches. Again, this matches original paint that was under the weather stripping on the A-pillar.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MTMRPLTq/pnt1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HcmVjBXh)
Engine compartment, trunk and some overspray were shot today...
(https://i.postimg.cc/fyYdZ0mP/pnt2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K3vjDj97)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Qt27Rq95/pnt3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7GNbz0NY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/T2bgnBFc/pnt4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V5YJ8ZYS)
that is looking nice
I agree, whether the colour is "bang on" or not, it looks fantastic :drooling:
Looks great! :clapping: Think you will be driving it this summer?
That was the plan but it took more money than I was hoping. Assembly won't take long but I don't have the money for wheels. It will have to sit for awhile longer unfortunately.
Seven months or so for a turn around on the paint job ? That's pretty respectable :worship: Looks fantastic...
Quote from: Burdar on January 16, 2022, 03:23:50 PM
That was the plan but it took more money than I was hoping. Assembly won't take long but I don't have the money for wheels. It will have to sit for awhile longer unfortunately.
Bummer, maybe something temporary/cheap will pop up near you. :fingerscrossed:
The white paint on the doors, rear panels and A-pillar/windshield trim was sprayed yesterday. The metal upper corner pieces on the windshield needed a little filler work after some big dents were straightened out. When the factory welded the A-pillars to the upper windshield support, they left the welds big and messy. When the corner pieces were installed, they touched the welds and were dented as they were being screwed down. I ground off those excess welds so that shouldn't happen again.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1t12z73M/white2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qtQjbLnC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bvt4pfps/white1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7CqKncCk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZRPgvP9m/white3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PpxKBwzV)
Beautiful. Color is really nice.
Don't know if you need these, but I saw them on sale at Roseville
https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product/side-marker-light-assemblie_68-curved-front-amber/
Looking good! :clapping: :worship: Can't wait to see it back together. :bigthumb:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xE5HQYVMxM&t=3s
I deleted the Youtube video I made before. It was made from really low quality video that was sent to my cell phone. I made a new one from higher resolution videos the body shop posted to their Facebook account.
Looks great, nice color
The car is going to look sooo good. Referencing an earlier post, I'd stay with 18's all around. The 20's in the rear will look to0 big and wagon wheel-ish.
This car needs balance being an smaller vehicle. A huge Impala can absorb 20's but in my opinion, won't look right on your A-body.
QuoteReferencing an earlier post, I'd stay with 18's all around. The 20's in the rear will look to0 big and wagon wheel-ish.
This car needs balance being an smaller vehicle. A huge Impala can absorb 20's but in my opinion, won't look right on your A-body.
I'm still going back and forth on that one. I was all set to go 20's in the rear and then I changed my mind and thought 18's. Now I'm kind of back to 20's. The Darts are a smaller car but the 1/4s hang way out past the rear wheel wells. That makes them look tail heavy. A larger wheel in the back would still look good IMO and not make the 1/4s looks like they are sticking out so far.
I found these wheels that I like a lot. They are custom made so I can get them exactly how I want them. Online pricing is probably way outdated though and I have no idea how long it would take to have them made.
(https://i.postimg.cc/2jHdvq1B/prowheelformula_(2).jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Then I found these at Summit Racing. They are a lot less expensive and it seems like it wouldn't take long for them to be delivered if I go this route. They only offer 18x7 and 18x10. The 10" wide won't fit in the back. They do offer a 20x8.5 that would fit. They are listed as Chevy/Ford wheels though so I'd have to check the center register diameter to see if they would fit a Mopar. Also, I don't really care for the "machined" outer lip. I'd prefer a polished lip.
(https://i.postimg.cc/15fGK9F7/wheel2_(2).jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Paint job looks gorgeous :drooling:
That is beautiful.
Darren, thought you might find this interesting to look at.... ( 1969 I know but... )
https://www.mecum.com/lots/AZ0322-495243/1969-dodge-dart-gts-convertible/
Thanks Brad. The GTS's will always be the collectable models and bring the most money. That's why I'm not concerned with modifying a GT. Still, there is that voice inside my head that says not to make any permanent mods that can't be easily undone.
The car is back home. I'm not going to get in a big hurry to start assembling it. I want to let the paint sit for 120 days or so before bolting things on the exterior. It's still cold here so I can't really spray the rad blackout or install the butyl sound deadener until it warms up. I'm going to be sending off the wiper motor to be restored in the next few days. When that comes back I should be ready to start the assembly process in full.
Quote from: Burdar on March 04, 2022, 11:10:13 AM
.......The car is back home. I'm not going to get in a big hurry to start assembling it. I want to let the paint sit for 120 days or so before bolting things on the exterior.........
Well, so much for that plan.... :haha: :haha: ...it's called anticipation.... :ohyeah:
I'm not going to get in hurry assembling the exterior and engine compartment. I want the paint to have a chance to fully cure before I start bolting on things like mirrors, door handles, side markers exc... The engine compartment needs to be waxed and the sound deadener needs to be installed before the heater box, master cylinder, engine comp wiring, dash and engine go in.
The paint looks great! So nice to be able to spin the car around on the jig while doing the bodywork.
She is really coming along and can't wait to see how this turns out!
Kudos!!!
:banana:
Car and paint look amazing! :clapping: :worship: I know I'm late to the party but regarding wheel choice I would go with the first ones personally. Not a real fan of those kidney bean type wheels but that's just me.
This is one awsome looking build.
Thanks for sharing it "here" as I don't spend time in the A areas.
Wow very very nice that paint looks great in the sun it pops congratulations. :australia:
Still waiting for that 120 day mark to be able to wax the engine compartment and start installing parts in there. I've been working on installing some of the glass and applying the sound deadener to the floor.
I got the 1/4 windows installed over the weekend. What a PITA! I downloaded the 67 and 69 service manuals and read how they were supposed to be installed.(68 manual isn't online) The instructions leave a lot to be desired. I tried multiple different ways and nothing seemed to work. I ended up having to take the rear stabalizer/track completely out and unbolting the front track to be able to slide the glass forward inside the 1/4 to be able to get all the rollers installed.
Before I could install the glass though, I had to sand/polish the stainless channel on the leading edge of the glass. On my Challenger I just left it attached to the glass and carefully polished it. On the Dart, the glass setting tape had come loose from the glass so it was a little more involved. The bottom of the stainless channel was rivited to the lift bracket as well. After drilling off the rivet heads they came right out. I figured out that I could tap the holes in the lift bracket with an 8-32 tap...then use some stainless button head screws to reattach the channel.
rivets holding the stainless to the lift bracket
(https://i.postimg.cc/x80pWfw4/20200528-080550.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1njKFQ5G)
button head screws to reattach
(https://i.postimg.cc/xCg3NKZ6/window.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2bbZPBrW)
What to do about the glass setting tape was an issue too. I've never dealt with that tape before and a few well respected guys online said they never had much luck with it. The old tape was still stuck to the stainless piece but had come loose from the glass. While looking for something else online, I found some stuff called "windshield and glass sealant". It's designed to fix leaks between the glass and the rubber gaskets. It's basically just thin, flowable silicone. It's thicker then superglue but not as thick as regular clear silicone. The tube was only $6 so I thought I'd give it a try. After cleaning the tape and glass, I put a bead on the leading edge of the glass and pushed the stainless on. I installed the button head screws and wrapped tape around the glass to hold everything stationary until the sealant could dry. It seems to be holding fine. If it fails, I'll have to install new glass setting tape.
The sound deadener is installed on the floor. I was going to use Kilmat. After reading reviews it seemed like the best bang for the buck. One day while watching TV on the couch, my wife said she was on Amazon placing an order and asked if I needed anything. I told her to look up Kilmat sound deadener. She said she found it and placed the order. When it arrived it wasn't Kilmat. It was some stuff called Siless. I'd never heard of it so I had to research it. It's made of butyl, is 80 mil thick and the box was 36 square feet...just like Kilmat. It was $60 for the box so it was slightly less then the Kilmat. Reviews seemed to be OK so I ended up using it.
This was my first time installing any type of sound deadener so I'm not sure exactly how much it's supposed to cut down on panel resonance. I guess I'm saying I thought it would do more then what it did. Tapping on the floor I still get a resonance in all the panels I applied it to. I know tapping on the panels is different then the noises you'll hear driving down the road so it might not be an apples to apples comparison. I did apply it to the entire floor and up the firewall until the factory insulation began.
(https://i.postimg.cc/4xsWFxgk/sound1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GHgP4rtq)
I put some under the rear seat but just in the middle. That's where the resonance was. The area above the frame rails was solid so I didn't think I needed anything there. I also went up the floor pan and into the area where the convertible top will sit. That area sounded really hollow. The brace between the wheel wells that the back seat attaches to sounded hollow too so I put some on there as well. Finally, I installed some aluminum tape over all of the seams. The edges of the sound deadener are exposed and sticky. I didn't want the carpet getting stuck in the butyl when it warms up.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZKrfcyXx/sound2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GHmJ39L4)
I did this exact thing in a Street/ Drift project I did back in my highschool days. I had stripped the car bare and it was undrivable. My poor highschool kid solution was to buy the cheapest over the counter sound deadener I could buy. Some real chinesium stuff.
It worked better then I thought it would. In your case, once you have the other soft goods in the car like the seats, carpet dash etc... you will notice the difference, I guarantee it.
Overall though, it is still a convertible so it will only work so much. I was in a barracuda locally that someone put sound deadening mats in the roof of the car when he redid the headliner and I was blown away at the difference that made.
QuoteIn your case, once you have the other soft goods in the car like the seats, carpet dash etc... you will notice the difference, I guarantee it.
That's what I'm hoping.
One of the main things I have to do before the engine and rear suspension can go in is undercoat the wheel wells. It was suggested by the body shop to get the glass in the doors before installing the rear fender shields and undercoating anything. That way, if the doors needed realignment, it would be easier without those shields in place. That means I need to get the vent windows rebuilt now. The main thing with those is the chrome vent window pivot pieces that the glass sits in. I sent those out for re-chroming and just got the estimate in the mail last night. :unbelievable: :bigmoney: :crying: $660 for two small vent window pivots. I talked to the chrome shop this morning and most of that cost is filling the pitted areas. If I could find an unpitted set, it would be significantly cheaper. So, I'm on the hunt for a really nice set.(hopefully that doesn't need any re-chroming)
If that fails, I might look into having those pieces powder coated. The chrome powder doesn't impress me. It just looks silver. However, they might look OK in semi-gloss black. Not much of the pivot pieces is visible below the glass. It might look fine...better then pitted chrome anyway. What sucks is that the vent window needs to be installed in the frame before the assembly goes in the door. There's no way to access the attaching screws once it's in the door.
Funny you mention sound deadener and Kilmat after I just finished mine about 2 weeks ago. I wasn't going to mention this project as it's not a Mopar but I thought I'd share what I found out after looking into sound deadening materials.
1) They don't remove all sound but they usually cut down anywhere from 8-10 decibels
2) Usually curved pieces of metal are the loudest for throwing sound in the vehicle
3) If you don't wear gloves it can cut the hell out of you! :)
Great job on the vert as I know how painful getting windows to work correctly.
:twothumbsup:
I've heard some of that stuff is pretty hard to install when the temps get low. The Siless was easy to install even when garage temps were in the 30s/40s. I didn't have to use any gloves and didn't scratch myself once. Well, that's not true. I did bang my hands a few times while rolling out the sound deadener but I didn't scratch myself on it. I wonder if the foil layer on the Siless is thinner then other brands? While rolling down sharp corners, the foil layer broke in some spots. I went over those areas with the foil tape so the butyl wasn't exposted.
Here is what the vent window pivot pieces look like. Not much of them is exposed. Maybe powder coat will look ok?
If you get the vent window chrome to match the exterior trim adjacent to it. It would blend in well.
QuoteIf you get the vent window chrome to match the exterior trim adjacent to it. It would blend in well.
I think a semi-gloss black would look fine since there is that big rubber gasket all the way around the vent glass. It would blend it with that.
Yea probably even better.
That's going to look wicked when finished :drooling:
Very nice. I give this an "A"
I need everyones opinion on something. Earlier I mentioned that it was going to cost over $660 to rechrome the small vent window pivot pieces. I've been waiting on a coworker to have time to pick them up from the chrome shop. I just got them back today. The extreme cost is due to the pitting in the chrome. The DS piece has pitting on the outside but the inside is really nice. The PS piece is really nice on the outside but has pitting on the inside.
I just spent some time in the garage sanding out the pitting on one piece. The pitting wasn't very deep and I got it all out. I sanded off the rest of the chrome on that side and then put the piece in the buffing wheel. It turned out awesome. The pot metal polished out really nicely. I don't expect it to last very long though. Like all aluminum it will take regular polishing to keep it looking good.
So, here is my quandary. Do I...
1. Leave these pieces polished. Try and find some type of product that protects the polished metal and keeps it looking nice longer.
2. Just go ahead and have them powder coated.
I tried finding really nice original ones but it's really hard to photograph chrome and get a true representation of what it looks like. If I spent the money on replacements without seeing them in person first, I think I'll be disappointed in what I recieve.
I tried taking some pictured of the pieces and here's what I was able to capture. You can see the polished piece next to the other one with the pitted chrome. I'm tempted to just leave them polished but what could I use to keep them looking nice for a longer period of time? ECS makes a product for wheels called Magic Guard. I wonder if that would work?
I personally cannot really see differences in the pics.
I have heard about product called Sharkhide. Or something like that.
If not that, then could you do a clearcoat
:bravo: Looks like you did an amazing job there.
While I can't suggest a product, there must be something out there, even if you have to re-apply occasionally, that would protect the finish. That's the route I would take.
Curious though. The chrome job was going to cost $660 because of the pitting. How much if you supply the pieces with the pits taken care of by yourself?
Quote from: YellowThumper on April 29, 2022, 08:39:54 PM
I personally cannot really see differences in the pics.
Go get your glasses...lol :pokeeye:
If you have all the pits out now, why not send them out to be chrome plated ? Should be cheaper if you've done all the prep work :dunno:
QuoteThe chrome job was going to cost $660 because of the pitting. How much if you supply the pieces with the pits taken care of by yourself?
They said probably half the cost. They said each pit would have to be drilled out and filled. That's why the high price. I sanded out 1 piece. There is a big pit on the other one that I'm not sure how deep it is. That piece has the pitting on the inside. Even if I send them back to be chromed, it would take 10 weeks to get them back. I'm really waiting on those parts to be able to get the glass in the doors. Once the glass is in, I can undercoat the wheel wells. That's the major thing I need to get done before the real assembly can happen.
I wonder if clear powder coating can be applied to polished aluminum and turn out nice? Maybe that's something to look into. I'd love to have them chromed but I just don't want to wait the 10 weeks.
Quote from: Burdar on April 30, 2022, 05:43:25 AM
Once the glass is in, I can undercoat the wheel wells.
:thinking: :huh: :dunno:
I've seen pieces with chrome powder coating and I was not impressed. I would stay away from that option.
Try clearcoating them, and look for better ones for the future just in case it doesn't last.
Clear coating after polish to shine like factory done to aluminum wheels last a long time. But the look will not be like chrome plating.
Quote from: Burdar on April 30, 2022, 05:43:25 AM
I'd love to have them chromed but I just don't want to wait the 10 weeks.
Wel then...polish them up, and apply a coating of what you think will work best. Worst case, after a cruizin' season, if you are not happy with the finish..ship them off for plating over the winter.
The inner splash sheilds need to be in place before I can undercoat the wheel wells. Access to the door hinge bolts are through the wheel well with the splash sheilds off. Once the sheilds are on and undercoated, the attaching fasteners will be buried in undercoating and it will make adjusting the doors difficult. If the doors need adjusting with the extra weight of the glass, I want to do that before the splash sheilds are installed.
QuoteI've seen pieces with chrome powder coating and I was not impressed. I would stay away from that option.
I'm not considering chrome powder coat. It doesn't look good. I was thinking about semi-gloss black. They would blend in to the rubber gasket around the vent windows.
Quote from: Burdar on April 30, 2022, 02:27:54 PM
QuoteI've seen pieces with chrome powder coating and I was not impressed. I would stay away from that option.
I'm not considering chrome powder coat. It doesn't look good. I was thinking about semi-gloss black.
The black would look good, but it depends on what you are doing with the rest of the '68's shiny bits
The pieces are at the powder coater. They looked good polished but the aluminum is such a poor grade that it wouldn't have lasted long. Just wiping a finger print off of the surface put minute scratches in the finish. It's getting coated semi-gloss black. It will blend in to the rubber gasket. I can always keep an eye out for replacements or get some chromed when I win the lottery.
Quote from: dodj on April 30, 2022, 03:53:35 AM
:bravo: Looks like you did an amazing job there.
While I can't suggest a product, there must be something out there, even if you have to re-apply occasionally, that would protect the finish. That's the route I would take.
Curious though. The chrome job was going to cost $660 because of the pitting. How much if you supply the pieces with the pits taken care of by yourself?
Quote from: YellowThumper on April 29, 2022, 08:39:54 PM
I personally cannot really see differences in the pics.
Go get your glasses...lol :pokeeye:
Have glasses. Time for bigger phone.
My age seems to be out outpacing the improving technology.
Yes LOL...
Looking good!
Instead of clear coating which may leave a film result on top, maybe this is a good route:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2lAjoMMCK4
Wow, those upgrades you have done to your property over the Summer look fantastic, certainly a "jack of all trades" ...I will NOT be showing this to my wife....she has a arms length list of things she wants done around here, that I've neglected for a while now.... :bricks:
You keep up the great work and we'll wait until the Winter for some automotive progress :twothumbsup: :drinkingbud:
Darren
Nice job on the upgrades. I hear that even the railing on decks have gone up huge. I'm not looking forward to replacing my deck (expanding) just based on the cost right now.
Winters almost upon us so I'm sure you will be working on the Dart again soon.
B
That is still a good sized deck, even after removing some of it. I'd say you'll also appreciate that garage space. Looks like you did a good job. Satisfying work if you ask me. I think you're gonna appreciate it a little more knowing that you did it yourself and did it right.
I think the shutters look good too.
I think ya kinda forget how hard it was once it's all done and some time has passed. Its time to enjoy it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nice progress update. At least with something significant. Looks good.
Mine has become significant plumbing repairs. The non visual repairs.
The one snag in the dash install was that the brand new speedo cable broke. Not sure what happened. I hooked it up with the dash pulled away from the windshield. I think it may have bound up when I rotated the dash up into place. Looking at it from underneath, I could have hooked it up easily to the gauge cluster afterword. Does anyone sell just this plastic piece or do I have to buy an entirely new cable?
Dam, that dash looks beautiful :drooling: sucks on the speedo cable, do you think a good epoxy would do the trick ?
I'd just buy a new cable. Epoxy will work for some time but it will eventually crack and give way being near a heat source.
:alan2cents:
Quote from: HP_Cuda on October 03, 2022, 07:10:48 AM
I'd just buy a new cable. Epoxy will work for some time but it will eventually crack and give way being near a heat source.
:alan2cents:
Whats the heat source?
I'd attempt repair, but that's me. Not sure it's the Darren way though. :P
Any chance of crimping another metal clamp higher up would work :thinking:
It was suggested that super glue would hold it. I may try that. Worst case is I have to buy a new cable. I saw a trick where you add baking soda to super glue and it instantly turns into a hard plastic like substance. I could add some glue around the outside crack(after the inside was glued) and sprinkle some baking soda on it.
Very nice job looks great :australia:
That's looks really good, looks like it leveled out nice :bigthumb:
House and car are looking great my friend, you have an attention to detail. My vote is for gorilla glue. I always have good luck with any gorilla products. Keep us updated over the winter as you make progress.
Before calling it a day, on Sunday, I wanted to check the pinion angle. The pinion looked really high up in the air and I was worried that the perches had been welded in the wrong spot. We jacked up the back of the car while I watched an angle gauge attached to the trans output shaft. Once the gauge read 0, I put the gauge on the pinion yoke. It read 0 as well so that's a pinion angle of 0. It looks like the perches were welded on correctly for an A-body...the flat oval track springs I'm using just threw the angle off a little. I already have some Belltech 2* axle shims and I've read that on a street car you want from -1 to -3* so that should be just right for what I need.
Last night I measured for a driveshaft. I need a shaft 52-1/2" long. I called up a big driveline shop that I've used in the past. They quoted me $200 plus new solid joints to shorten and balance a driveshaft. :Thud: That's brand new driveshaft territory! I found a couple shops online that advertise brand new shafts for $270 plus shipping. They wouldn't have a tapered end on the shaft though but I don't know if that's necessary for clearance.
I love the colour you chose for the engine, it looks great against the blue :drooling: nice out of the box thinking and not just another orange Mopar engine :clapping: :worship:
Boy I could tell you stories about carrying 8 3/4's out of a basement...I've done it dozens of times :drunk:
Looks good! :bigthumb:
I got my D-shaft from dr diff. It doesn't taper as it's just the smaller dia along the whole length. Just FYI for another d-shaft source.
The center console and steering column are installed. I first started with the console carpet. I tried gluing it on but didn't have very good luck and ended up peeling it back off. I read that some people use Velcro. That worked a lot better. Still, the carpet doesn't look that nice but I'm told that it's just the way it is and that it will look fine once the seats are installed. We will see.
I was worried at first that the console wasn't going to go in with the tach mounted. Every time the console was test fit, the dash wasn't installed. Now that the dash is in, I couldn't just drop it straight down over the shifter any more. In order to get it in I had to remove the ash tray, take the lockout lever off the shifter and have the shifter in a vertical position. Then I had to shove the tach under the dash at an angle and rotate the console over the shifter and into place. It's definitely a tight fit. The steering column went in a little easier. Nothing really complicated about that. The lower bearing upgrade looks like it's going to work nicely and the column basically fell into place.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SNDMFGXT/int2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fJSLYmfm)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2StL387n/int3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DSqwMhDz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/W4JFZL5C/int4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Y4MCcVKz)
I had to hook a battery up just to make sure the lights all worked. There was an issue with the map light and the shift indicator light. After probing some wires with the test light I found the issue. The issue was the same for both lights. The factory wiring has + entering the side(body) of the bulb. The ground wire is the pin on the bottom of the bulb. This works fine for an incandescent bulb but not for an LED. I pulled the wires out of the "T" connector at the map light and revered them. Now the + goes into the bottom pin and the ground is the bulb body. The shift indicator light wasn't as easy of a fix since the bulb socket doesn't have wires that can be easily swapped. I ended up having to cut the two wires going to the bulb and spliced them back together reversed.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Wb2kHy4q/int5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9zn04JZc)
Looking good. You do nice work Darren! :twothumbsup:
Wow, it's coming together real nice :worship:
I'm gonna have to look back in the thread to see what that rod is between the spring and gas tank...It's black and silver so I'm guessing multiple parts...maybe adjustable... :huh:
That would be the jack handle. The jack is under the rear end. I've never been comfortable working under a car on jack stands. I like to have redundancies. The cherry picker is still hooked up on the front with just the slightest bit of tension as well. I think I'm going to build some of those wooden wheel cribs to get the car higher off the ground but still have the car sitting on its suspension. They just seem a lot more stable then jack stands to me. :wrenching:
Quote from: Burdar on November 29, 2022, 01:48:25 PM
That would be the jack handle. The jack is under the rear end. I've never been comfortable working under a car on jack stands. I like to have redundancies. The cherry picker is still hooked up on the front with just the slightest bit of tension as well. I think I'm going to build some of those wooden wheel cribs to get the car higher off the ground but still have the car sitting on its suspension. They just seem a lot more stable then jack stands to me. :wrenching:
Ha Ha...And here is me wondering what kind of trick suspension thingy is that!? lol
Ya...I'm the same on redundancies. :bigthumb:
Looks good. Re your natural driveshaft you might want to try some of that "Rust Prevention Magic" paste. I apply it once a year to my 'Cuda's bare metal suspension parts even though I don't drive the car in the rain or winter. It works really good. I live in Utah with lots of salted roads in the winter. To test it I applied it to a spot on my new 4X4 daily driver truck's driveshaft. When I checked it a year later the driveshaft had a light coating of rust all over it except for where I treated it with the Rust Prevention Magic pasted. Still rust free. I only applied it once and years later that spot is still rust free. :bigthumb:
I haven't touched it this year. In the spring my aunt's shop(where the Challenger was stored) was hit by a tornado. The roof was blown off but the ceiling didn't collapse. The Challenger came through that with only a small dent in the trunk.(not even sure that was caused by the storm) That was the motivation I needed to get started on a garage addition. I should have done it years ago when prices were low but that didn't happen.
I'm a layout tech for a lumber yard, designing roof and floor systems. In my spare time I designed the roof and had a coworker design the wall panels. We built those in house. I had the walls, roof and shingles installed by professionals. Dad is helping me do the rest to save money. I just have a little bit of siding left and the exterior will be done. The garage doors should be installed next week.
WOW :rubeyes: :twothumbsup:
:bigthumb:
Very Nice! All that extra space will be great.
And.....with less grass to mow, you'll have more time to work on the cars. lol
I live on a corner lot. I had to stay 25' from the property line in the back and on the side. I made the garage as big as I possibly could. The new driveway should be poured in October. Once the outside is done I need to get bids on electrical. I tried getting bids last year but only 1 company called me back.
I'm a journeyman electrician and would come help you out....if you were just a tad closer! Garages are easy electrical wise. I would offer a couple suggestions, but, knowing you, you have it well thought out by now.
Surprised only one response. Maybe find an electrician that does after hours side-jobs? Could get a garage done in a couple evenings. Especially attached to the house. No ditch to dig or overhead to run.