Pro Touring 68 Dart convertible

[Burdar]

Still waiting for that 120 day mark to be able to wax the engine compartment and start installing parts in there.  I've been working on installing some of the glass and applying the sound deadener to the floor.

I got the 1/4 windows installed over the weekend.  What a PITA!  I downloaded the 67 and 69 service manuals and read how they were supposed to be installed.(68 manual isn't online)  The instructions leave a lot to be desired.  I tried multiple different ways and nothing seemed to work.  I ended up having to take the rear stabalizer/track completely out and unbolting the front track to be able to slide the glass forward inside the 1/4 to be able to get all the rollers installed. 

Before I could install the glass though, I had to sand/polish the stainless channel on the leading edge of the glass.  On my Challenger I just left it attached to the glass and carefully polished it.  On the Dart, the glass setting tape had come loose from the glass so it was a little more involved.  The bottom of the stainless channel was rivited to the lift bracket as well.  After drilling off the rivet heads they came right out.  I figured out that I could tap the holes in the lift bracket with an 8-32 tap...then use some stainless button head screws to reattach the channel.

rivets holding the stainless to the lift bracket


button head screws to reattach


What to do about the glass setting tape was an issue too.  I've never dealt with that tape before and a few well respected guys online said they never had much luck with it.  The old tape was still stuck to the stainless piece but had come loose from the glass.  While looking for something else online, I found some stuff called "windshield and glass sealant".  It's designed to fix leaks between the glass and the rubber gaskets.  It's basically just thin, flowable silicone.  It's thicker then superglue but not as thick as regular clear silicone.  The tube was only $6 so I thought I'd give it a try.  After cleaning the tape and glass, I put a bead on the leading edge of the glass and pushed the stainless on.  I installed the button head screws and wrapped tape around the glass to hold everything stationary until the sealant could dry.  It seems to be holding fine.  If it fails, I'll have to install new glass setting tape.

[Burdar]

The sound deadener is installed on the floor.  I was going to use Kilmat.  After reading reviews it seemed like the best bang for the buck.  One day while watching TV on the couch, my wife said she was on Amazon placing an order and asked if I needed anything.  I told her to look up Kilmat sound deadener.  She said she found it and placed the order.  When it arrived it wasn't Kilmat.  It was some stuff called Siless.  I'd never heard of it so I had to research it.  It's made of butyl, is 80 mil thick and the box was 36 square feet...just like Kilmat.  It was $60 for the box so it was slightly less then the Kilmat.  Reviews seemed to be OK so I ended up using it.

This was my first time installing any type of sound deadener so I'm not sure exactly how much it's supposed to cut down on panel resonance.  I guess I'm saying I thought it would do more then what it did.  Tapping on the floor I still get a resonance in all the panels I applied it to.  I know tapping on the panels is different then the noises you'll hear driving down the road so it might not be an apples to apples comparison.  I did apply it to the entire floor and up the firewall until the factory insulation began.


I put some under the rear seat but just in the middle.  That's where the resonance was.  The area above the frame rails was solid so I didn't think I needed anything there.  I also went up the floor pan and into the area where the convertible top will sit.  That area sounded really hollow.  The brace between the wheel wells that the back seat attaches to sounded hollow too so I put some on there as well.  Finally, I installed some aluminum tape over all of the seams.  The edges of the sound deadener are exposed and sticky.  I didn't want the carpet getting stuck in the butyl when it warms up.

[72 Challenger]

I did this exact thing in a Street/ Drift project I did back in my highschool days. I had stripped the car bare and it was undrivable. My poor highschool kid solution was to buy the cheapest over the counter sound deadener I could buy. Some real chinesium stuff.

It worked better then I thought it would. In your case, once you have the other soft goods in the car like the seats, carpet dash etc... you will notice the difference, I guarantee it.

Overall though, it is still a convertible so it will only work so much. I was in a barracuda locally that someone put sound deadening mats in the roof of the car when he redid the headliner and I was blown away at the difference that made.

[Burdar]

In your case, once you have the other soft goods in the car like the seats, carpet dash etc... you will notice the difference, I guarantee it. 

That's what I'm hoping.

One of the main things I have to do before the engine and rear suspension can go in is undercoat the wheel wells.  It was suggested by the body shop to get the glass in the doors before installing the rear fender shields and undercoating anything.  That way, if the doors needed realignment, it would be easier without those shields in place.  That means I need to get the vent windows rebuilt now.  The main thing with those is the chrome vent window pivot pieces that the glass sits in.  I sent those out for re-chroming and just got the estimate in the mail last night.    $660 for two small vent window pivots.  I talked to the chrome shop this morning and most of that cost is filling the pitted areas.  If I could find an unpitted set, it would be significantly cheaper.  So, I'm on the hunt for a really nice set.(hopefully that doesn't need any re-chroming) 

If that fails, I might look into having those pieces powder coated.  The chrome powder doesn't impress me.  It just looks silver.  However, they might look OK in semi-gloss black.  Not much of the pivot pieces is visible below the glass.  It might look fine...better then pitted chrome anyway.  What sucks is that the vent window needs to be installed in the frame before the assembly goes in the door.  There's no way to access the attaching screws once it's in the door.

[HP_Cuda]

Funny you mention sound deadener and Kilmat after I just finished mine about 2 weeks ago. I wasn't going to mention this project as it's not a Mopar but I thought I'd share what I found out after looking into sound deadening materials.

1) They don't remove all sound but they usually cut down anywhere from 8-10 decibels
2) Usually curved pieces of metal are the loudest for throwing sound in the vehicle
3) If you don't wear gloves it can cut the hell out of you!

Great job on the vert as I know how painful getting windows to work correctly.

[Burdar]

I've heard some of that stuff is pretty hard to install when the temps get low.  The Siless was easy to install even when garage temps were in the 30s/40s.  I didn't have to use any gloves and didn't scratch myself once.  Well, that's not true.  I did bang my hands a few times while rolling out the sound deadener but I didn't scratch myself on it.  I wonder if the foil layer on the Siless is thinner then other brands?  While rolling down sharp corners, the foil layer broke in some spots.  I went over those areas with the foil tape so the butyl wasn't exposted.

Here is what the vent window pivot pieces look like.  Not much of them is exposed.  Maybe powder coat will look ok?

[YellowThumper]

If you get the vent window chrome to match the exterior trim adjacent to it. It would blend in well.

[Burdar]

If you get the vent window chrome to match the exterior trim adjacent to it. It would blend in well.

I think a semi-gloss black would look fine since there is that big rubber gasket all the way around the vent glass.  It would blend it with that.

[YellowThumper]

Yea probably even better.

[Burdar]

Had a good friend make me a rendering of the Dart.  It turned out pretty cool.

[anlauto]

That's going to look wicked when finished 

[YellowThumper]

Very nice. I give this an "A"

[Burdar]

I need everyones opinion on something.  Earlier I mentioned that it was going to cost over $660 to rechrome the small vent window pivot pieces.  I've been waiting on a coworker to have time to pick them up from the chrome shop.  I just got them back today.  The extreme cost is due to the pitting in the chrome.  The DS piece has pitting on the outside but the inside is really nice.  The PS piece is really nice on the outside but has pitting on the inside.

I just spent some time in the garage sanding out the pitting on one piece.  The pitting wasn't very deep and I got it all out.  I sanded off the rest of the chrome on that side and then put the piece in the buffing wheel.  It turned out awesome.  The pot metal polished out really nicely.  I don't expect it to last very long though.  Like all aluminum it will take regular polishing to keep it looking good.

So, here is my quandary.  Do I...

1. Leave these pieces polished.  Try and find some type of product that protects the polished metal and keeps it looking nice longer.
2. Just go ahead and have them powder coated. 

I tried finding really nice original ones but it's really hard to photograph chrome and get a true representation of what it looks like.  If I spent the money on replacements without seeing them in person first, I think I'll be disappointed in what I recieve.

I tried taking some pictured of the pieces and here's what I was able to capture.  You can see the polished piece next to the other one with the pitted chrome.  I'm tempted to just leave them polished but what could I use to keep them looking nice for a longer period of time?  ECS makes a product for wheels called Magic Guard.  I wonder if that would work?

[YellowThumper]

I personally cannot really see differences in the pics.
I have heard about product called Sharkhide. Or something like that.
If not that, then could you do a clearcoat

[dodj]

   Looks like you did an amazing job there.
While I can't suggest a product, there must be something out there, even if you have to re-apply occasionally, that would protect the finish. That's the route I would take.
Curious though. The chrome job was going to cost $660 because of the pitting. How much if you supply the pieces with the pits taken care of by yourself?

I personally cannot really see differences in the pics.

Go get your glasses...lol