Hey everybody!
I thought it would be better if I describe in one post all my adventures with my 74 kinda plum crazy chally.
It's a 74 318, 8 3/4 rear end with front discs brakes, radio, OE rallye cluster, power brakes, black bucket seats. It's a JH code car.
To begin with, here's the little story behind my car.
As some of you know, I'm in France. Since 2015 I was looking for a Pontiac Trans Am (yep I'm a traitor :vipermanhiding:), eventually not finding it, I(ve always liked the challenger but thy were wayyyyy to pricey around here even in bad conditions.
One day, explaining to a colleague what I was looking for, I searched for a T/A and found a 74 challenger (because of key words) in the North of France 600km from my home (I live in the eastern part).
At first glance, on the pics, i didn't liked the color, but the price was fair, but all the papers had to be done it was still with Kansas plates. The original title was there so I decided to ask the guy to come and see it.
The car came in a lot with a mustang (the vendor is a mustang specialist) and he didn't had the time to take care of it. The car came from Kansas to the UK and then to Bercq (France) . I fell in love with it when I saw it (eventually when he started up haha)
Some work had to be done one of the rear frame had a hole in it and the shocks were... original shocks :yes:.
The first thing i made was to cut and welded some metal onto the rear frame.
I then installed new shocks and QA1 front control arms, new air filter (there wasn't any) . New prothane bump stops;
After looking at it more in details, I decided to go with a full disc setup taken from a 06 mustang. I designed with solidworks some calipers adapter plates and made them with a laser cutting table. New front hub from wilwood, and some 18 inches wheels (I'm with 245 at the rears and 225 upfront).
Reading the forum and googling things on E body's , I had to look at the electrical wirings! and..... it was a nightmare for all good electricians! The previous owner did some really crappy work on it, there were some improvised splice wirth the main black wire to the ammeter, the washer motor was connected to the coil (YES the COIL !!! :pullinghair: ) the bulkhead was burned etc etc...
I took the decision of removing completly the interlock system with all the wires and compoent which was quiet easy. I changed the bulkhead connector running the wire from the engine compartment to the under dash board using a new bulkhead. (Now I would just solder all the wires, it would be really easier).
Had a little fire behind the steering wheel which was the buzzer contactor (fried because of some shavings??) :pokeeye:
I tig welded a custom ehaust line with flowmaster super 10's.
I changed all the brake lines too, I now have to look for a better MC, i don't like the feeling of the original .
The previous owner put a performer intake and a holley 600cfm carb and some headers (don't know the brand or model). I will port the heads and change the cam this winter.
For those wo want to know, the fender tag told me that it has a "special color" and "special ordered trim" or something like that...
Here's some pics (it's still the 15" wheels on the pics)
:cool: Glad you rescued it. :ohyeah:
It's coming along. It takes a lot more dedication to build/own one of these cars overseas than living in the U.S.
nice wheels, just wondering why the alternator adjusting bracket is on top not bottom. Is there an advantage to that method?
Quote from: 73TopBanana on July 08, 2019, 08:50:22 AM
nice wheels, just wondering why the alternator adjusting bracket is on top not bottom. Is there an advantage to that method?
Don't know :notsure:, it was already like that... maybe it's simpler to adjust it that way...
Looks like a nice car that is in pretty good shape. Good luck with it. Looking forward to seeing more pics as you move along.
Looks Good , you get to learn while working through the cars problems :bigthumb:
I am sure you will enjoy it once you get the issues sorted out
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on July 09, 2019, 05:26:09 AM
Looks Good , you get to learn while working through the cars problems :bigthumb:
I am sure you will enjoy it once you get the issues sorted out
Yup! Learning everyday new stuff with this car!
Since I have this car, I have a vibration coming from transmission beginning at 55 to 65mph; it's like the vibrations done by a turboprop engine in a plane when it is starting up... (hope my car does 1000+hp but no haha :vipermanhiding: )
Any guesses?
Another question : I have the original power-booster/proportioning valve with my four discs brake conversion (originally 2discs upfront). It's just lame with the new setup, I'm looking for a firm pedal feel... What works for you? Can i stay with power brakes or go manual?
:wave:
as for the brakes you likely need to go down in bore size on the M/C
Quote from: Brads70 on July 12, 2019, 04:53:36 AM
as for the brakes you likely need to go down in bore size on the M/C
Thanks! No need to change the proportioning valve?
Nice car... good luck with it. I'm sure you will have lots of good times with it. My wife has a 74' Cuda plum crazy... and I have a 70' Cuda In-Violet.
Quote from: jbaha on July 12, 2019, 06:54:02 AM
Quote from: Brads70 on July 12, 2019, 04:53:36 AM
as for the brakes you likely need to go down in bore size on the M/C
Thanks! No need to change the proportioning valve?
When I went to 4 wheel discs I removed the stock valve and used the adjustable wilwood one, but I've never had to adjust it, its wide open. As for the master some have a little brassvalve/restriction that you remove that was there for rear drums . Its behind the brake line fitting. I just bought a new one from DrDiff ....cheap enough IMO
https://www.doctordiff.com/aluminum-master-cylinder-kit.html
Quote from: Brads70 on July 13, 2019, 09:09:55 PM
Quote from: jbaha on July 12, 2019, 06:54:02 AM
Quote from: Brads70 on July 12, 2019, 04:53:36 AM
as for the brakes you likely need to go down in bore size on the M/C
Thanks! No need to change the proportioning valve?
When I went to 4 wheel discs I removed the stock valve and used the adjustable wilwood one, but I've never had to adjust it, its wide open. As for the master some have a little brassvalve/restriction that you remove that was there for rear drums . Its behind the brake line fitting. I just bought a new one from DrDiff ....cheap enough IMO
https://www.doctordiff.com/aluminum-master-cylinder-kit.html
Thank you :)
Nice cars BTW Mopar thunder!
As some of you saw it in another thread, i went for a 5 speed tranny (AX15). Redid the timing, it goes really well. Now I'm enjoying it more than ever!
I would really like to find previous owner or know a little bit more about the history of this car... Anyone has advices on how to find the history? (i just know it came from Kansas)
I have a dumb question, as "summer" is kinda here (it's raining a lot this year), I noticed that the temperature inside the car is always hot when we reach 25°C (77°F) and above, i know old cars are like that but when I open the door, i feel the heat coming through the front quarter panel to the door (and toward the inside). So I cannot drive it after this temp because i feel like i'm in an oven (even with windows open and gas fumes coming in), and of course previous owners suppressed the A/C :crazytalk:
Any ideas to prevent the oven feeling? Thanks!
There are no dumb questions here... just questions.
I only had a few miles on my car before I took it apart, so I don't have a strong story about cabin heat levels "before" and "after" the changes below.
I put Dynamat foil/rubber insulation under my carpet. The version I have is more for sound insulation than heat but I believe it's helping keep the temperature fairly cool in my interior (no a/c in my car yet either). Several members here have successfully used a product called "LizardSkin" which is spray applied. Note that there's a LizardSkin product for heat and one for sound.
https://lizardskin.com/
I also put exhaust wrap around the pipes. I think this has been doing the most good in terms of keeping the cabin temperatures down. There are strong opinions for and against using this product, with the "against" mostly raising issues about accelerating corrosion of the pipes from trapped moisture. You have to dig a little to find the information on the manufacturer's website, but they do suggest letting the car run for a few extra minutes to dry out if the product gets wet.
https://www.designengineering.com/products/heat-control/exhaust-wrap/
Depending on how your car is set up, there may be an opportunity to reduce heat levels by blocking coolant flow into the heater box. I've seen threads where members had problems because the prior owner removed the heater control valve (the 70 version, in particular, is prone to leaking). From what I've read here, non-a/c heater boxes have coolant flowing through them all the time, with the condition and position of the heater box vent doors determining whether heat is directed into the cabin or not. If your heater box is still original, chances are pretty good the foam seals on the vent doors have turned to powder Replacement foam is available here:
https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/
All this stuff is readily available in the U.S. but it may be more of a problem for you to get them in France.
Swapping the headers for the stock exhaust manifolds may help a bit.
Quote from: Dakota on July 05, 2021, 04:23:48 AM
There are no dumb questions here... just questions.
I only had a few miles on my car before I took it apart, so I don't have a strong story about cabin heat levels "before" and "after" the changes below.
I put Dynamat foil/rubber insulation under my carpet. The version I have is more for sound insulation than heat but I believe it's helping keep the temperature fairly cool in my interior (no a/c in my car yet either). Several members here have successfully used a product called "LizardSkin" which is spray applied. Note that there's a LizardSkin product for heat and one for sound.
https://lizardskin.com/
I also put exhaust wrap around the pipes. I think this has been doing the most good in terms of keeping the cabin temperatures down. There are strong opinions for and against using this product, with the "against" mostly raising issues about accelerating corrosion of the pipes from trapped moisture. You have to dig a little to find the information on the manufacturer's website, but they do suggest letting the car run for a few extra minutes to dry out if the product gets wet.
https://www.designengineering.com/products/heat-control/exhaust-wrap/
Depending on how your car is set up, there may be an opportunity to reduce heat levels by blocking coolant flow into the heater box. I've seen threads where members had problems because the prior owner removed the heater control valve (the 70 version, in particular, is prone to leaking). From what I've read here, non-a/c heater boxes have coolant flowing through them all the time, with the condition and position of the heater box vent doors determining whether heat is directed into the cabin or not. If your heater box is still original, chances are pretty good the foam seals on the vent doors have turned to powder Replacement foam is available here:
https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/
All this stuff is readily available in the U.S. but it may be more of a problem for you to get them in France.
Thank you for your recommandations. I heard about Lizarskin, I will look for it if there is in europe or a similar product! I'm just afraid of dynamat thickness... (which is pretty popular here)
I will put exhaust wrap as I have stainless steel pipes, it should be ok! that's a good idea. hummm I will look at my foam seals! I still have the heater control valve (i have "problem" operating from the inside but, it's still working :)) )
Here's my self made (fiberglas-resin) reproduction of the original console with the shifter hole. Still need to clean the car ... I'll put some striped rubber on the rectangular recess to put some keys or i don't know and to cover the screws.
It's "wrinkle plus VHT" paint that creates this vermiculated look!
Hello there!
I'd like to buy the RTE electronic board for the tach, but it seems they don't send packages to europe (on ebay)... Does someone has an e-mail address to contact them?
Thanks all!
hello !
Since i finished the transmission swap, i'm enjoying a lot my car, but yesterday I had to take it on the highway (70mph here) and after 55 or 60 there is a vibration that i can feel in the floor but not in my new trans.
I decided to put the rear on jackstands and I noticed the driver rear wheel is no
hello !
Since i finished the transmission swap, i'm enjoying a lot my car, but yesterday I had to take it on the highway (70mph here) and after 55 or 60 there is a vibration that i can feel in the floor but not in my new trans. (i know i have to balance the driveshaft)
I decided to put the rear on jackstands and I noticed the driver rear wheel is vibrating (going left to right in a rotation), so I inspected the axle shaft but it's not bent at all (i looked at the 2 sides anyway cause the passenger side was not vibrating). I put it all back following the good procedures, looked at the inner seal in the tube if it was correctly installed, and once I torqued the axle nuts at 35 ftp i couldn't adjust the play anymore with the adjuster... (there was no play before removing the shafts)
What could it be?
BTW it's a 8 3/4
all suggestions are welcomed! :ohyeah: