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74 plum crazy

Started by jbaha, July 08, 2019, 04:45:56 AM

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jbaha

#15
As some of you saw it in another thread, i went for a 5 speed tranny (AX15). Redid the timing,  it goes really well. Now I'm enjoying it more than ever!

I would really like to find previous owner or know a little bit more about the history of this car... Anyone has advices on how to find the history? (i just know it came from Kansas)


jbaha

I have a dumb question, as "summer" is kinda here (it's raining a lot this year), I noticed that the temperature inside the car is always hot when we reach 25°C (77°F) and above, i know old cars are like that but when I open the door, i feel the heat coming through the front quarter panel to the door (and toward the inside). So I cannot drive it after this temp because i feel like i'm in an oven (even with windows open and gas fumes coming in), and of course previous owners suppressed the A/C  :crazytalk:

Any ideas to prevent the oven feeling? Thanks!

Dakota

There are no dumb questions here... just questions.

I only had a few miles on my car before I took it apart, so I don't have a strong story about cabin heat levels "before" and "after" the changes below.

I put Dynamat foil/rubber insulation under my carpet.   The version I have is more for sound insulation than heat but I believe it's helping keep the temperature fairly cool in my interior (no a/c in my car yet either).   Several members here have successfully used a product called "LizardSkin" which is spray applied.   Note that there's a LizardSkin product for heat and one for sound.

https://lizardskin.com/


I also put exhaust wrap around the pipes.   I think this has been doing the most good in terms of keeping the cabin temperatures down.   There are strong opinions for and against using this product, with the "against" mostly raising issues about accelerating corrosion of the pipes from trapped moisture.   You have to dig a little to find the information on the manufacturer's website, but they do suggest letting the car run for a few extra minutes to dry out if the product gets wet. 

https://www.designengineering.com/products/heat-control/exhaust-wrap/


Depending on how your car is set up, there may be an opportunity to reduce heat levels by blocking coolant flow into the heater box.   I've seen threads where members had problems because the prior owner removed the heater control valve (the 70 version, in particular, is prone to leaking).   From what I've read here, non-a/c heater boxes have coolant flowing through them all the time, with the condition and position of the heater box vent doors determining whether heat is directed into the cabin or not.    If your heater box is still original, chances are pretty good the foam seals on the vent doors have turned to powder   Replacement foam is available here:

https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/


All this stuff is readily available in the U.S. but it may be more of a problem for you to get them in France.   


torredcuda

Swapping the headers for the stock exhaust manifolds may help a bit.
Jeff   `72 Barracuda 340/4spd
https://www.facebook.com/jeffrey.hunt.750

Northeast Mighty Mopar Club
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1486087201685038/

jbaha

Quote from: Dakota on July 05, 2021, 04:23:48 AM
There are no dumb questions here... just questions.

I only had a few miles on my car before I took it apart, so I don't have a strong story about cabin heat levels "before" and "after" the changes below.

I put Dynamat foil/rubber insulation under my carpet.   The version I have is more for sound insulation than heat but I believe it's helping keep the temperature fairly cool in my interior (no a/c in my car yet either).   Several members here have successfully used a product called "LizardSkin" which is spray applied.   Note that there's a LizardSkin product for heat and one for sound.

https://lizardskin.com/


I also put exhaust wrap around the pipes.   I think this has been doing the most good in terms of keeping the cabin temperatures down.   There are strong opinions for and against using this product, with the "against" mostly raising issues about accelerating corrosion of the pipes from trapped moisture.   You have to dig a little to find the information on the manufacturer's website, but they do suggest letting the car run for a few extra minutes to dry out if the product gets wet. 

https://www.designengineering.com/products/heat-control/exhaust-wrap/


Depending on how your car is set up, there may be an opportunity to reduce heat levels by blocking coolant flow into the heater box.   I've seen threads where members had problems because the prior owner removed the heater control valve (the 70 version, in particular, is prone to leaking).   From what I've read here, non-a/c heater boxes have coolant flowing through them all the time, with the condition and position of the heater box vent doors determining whether heat is directed into the cabin or not.    If your heater box is still original, chances are pretty good the foam seals on the vent doors have turned to powder   Replacement foam is available here:

https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/


All this stuff is readily available in the U.S. but it may be more of a problem for you to get them in France.   

Thank you  for your recommandations. I heard about Lizarskin, I will look for it if there is in europe or a similar product! I'm just afraid of dynamat thickness... (which is pretty popular here)

I will put exhaust wrap as I have stainless steel pipes, it should be ok! that's a good idea. hummm I will look at my foam seals! I still have the heater control valve (i have "problem" operating from the inside but, it's still working  :)) )


jbaha

Here's my  self made (fiberglas-resin) reproduction of the original console with the shifter hole. Still need to clean the car ... I'll put some striped rubber on the rectangular recess to put some keys or i don't know and  to cover the screws.

It's "wrinkle plus VHT" paint that creates this vermiculated look!


jbaha

Hello there!

I'd like to buy the RTE electronic board for the tach, but it seems they don't send packages to europe (on ebay)...  Does someone has an e-mail address to contact them?

Thanks all!


jbaha

hello !

Since i finished the transmission swap, i'm enjoying a lot my car, but yesterday I had to take it on the highway (70mph here) and after 55 or 60 there is a vibration that i can feel in the floor but not in my new trans.

I decided to put the rear on jackstands and I noticed the driver rear wheel is no

jbaha

hello !

Since i finished the transmission swap, i'm enjoying a lot my car, but yesterday I had to take it on the highway (70mph here) and after 55 or 60 there is a vibration that i can feel in the floor but not in my new trans.  (i know i have to balance the driveshaft)

I decided to put the rear on jackstands and I noticed the driver rear wheel is vibrating (going left to right in a rotation), so I inspected the axle shaft but it's not bent at all (i looked at the 2 sides anyway cause the passenger side was not vibrating). I put it all back following the good procedures, looked at the inner seal in the tube if it was correctly installed, and once I torqued the axle nuts at 35 ftp i couldn't adjust the play anymore with the adjuster... (there was no play before removing the shafts)

What could it be?

BTW it's a 8 3/4

jbaha

all suggestions are welcomed!  :ohyeah: