Does anyone have any tips on the best root, to change a Dash pad.
I really don't want to remove the entire dash out of he car.
I changed out the dash pad in a '70 while it was still in the car when I was young and stupid and didn't know any better. Actually I wasn't all that stupid, even at 18 or 19 I knew to remove the VIN from my old pad and put it on the new one, which I've heard a lot of people neglected to do back in the 70s and early 80s, resulting in missing VIN tags in some cars now. But I was much more flexible then, I can't imagine crawling under a dash to unscrew and reinstall all the fasteners now!
I've talked to people who've told me they were able to install new pads by removing a few bolts that connect the dash frame to the body, unbolting and dropping the steering column, and disconnecting the dash wiring harness, then rotate the dash assembly down to make access easy without fully removing the dash assembly. Haven't tried that myself but sounds pretty straightforward.
I did it several times when I was younger too.
As I remember it really wasn't as bad as people make it out to be.
I do remember the 1 nut that gave me trouble was the upper front left.
The switch panel needs to be removed to access it, so I always let that 1 off when putting it back together.
If you're trying to save time this isn't the way to do it.
:iagree: pack a lot of patience too :yes:
I swapped out my dash pad with the dash/wind shield still in the car. I never thought about removing the dash, others say it's much easier?
Pulling it isn't real hard. 2 bolts on the side and 3 or so up top. I don't recall any underneath except I suppose you probably gotta lower the steering wheel. Disconnect a few wires. I don't recall it being very difficult or taking all that long.
It's been likely over 25 years since I tried to do it in the car....I recall having to take a LOT of the dash apart to access the 11 nuts. The ash try, glove box, instruments all have to come out I believe :unbelievable: so by the time you've done that you might have just as well pulled the whole dash out. :dunno:
Speaking of swapping out dash pads...I guess you guys in the Southern States don't come across mint originals too often eh ?
I have these two in my shop right now..... https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-parts-and-accessories/oakville-halton-region/two-1971-cuda-challenger-dash-pads-mint-original/1458376447?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
I don't think they will sell quickly around here for the asking price(s) but to put it into perspective....a reproduction pad from Roseville is over $1500CDN by the time we get it here, even more if David has to ship it here to Canada...It's over $300 in shipping alone. :o
So $1800 CDN (roughly $1300USD) doesn't sound too bad....I'm sure somebody has an OE type car worthy of that expense :bigmoney:
I did my dash pad change with the dash in place. Remove gauges and glove box. Undo the ten nuts underneath, take it out. Easier than taking the dash out imo.
even dropping the whole dash is a pain , there are 4 bolts in the defrost vents, there is no way I can get to them to put them back in , good to have a female or a kid will small hands to start the bolts
I've done this several times, like a lot have said, when I was younger. As mentioned remove almost everything first (switch panel, gauges, ash tray, glove box, I think I did my radio too).
One thing I do remember is buying a 1/4 drive 12 inch extension and 1/4 drive U-joint. It helped with some of the speed nuts and, I think, with the 4 vent bolts.
I don't remember taking the gage dash panels or radio out when I changed my dash pad, but that was 35 years ago so I could be wrong.
This was in my T/A, and I was installing an OE pad. I just had my convertible's dash pad restored and reinstalled by a shop last year. He said it was a real pain to install due to the Just Dashes restoration of my pads puffiness, making it a nightmare to get at the bolts in the defroster ducts.
That car has a AC and 3 speaker dash, so there's a lot more in the way then the pad I did in my T/A.
My friend Ray,
@ricomondo (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/ricomondo_4657) here, has replaced several pads on his cars in recent times so he might have some tips to share?
Thanks gents took 5 hrs to pull it out. I expect twice as long to reinstall.!
Quote from: Chryco on September 14, 2019, 12:53:22 PM
Thanks gents took 5 hrs to pull it out. I expect twice as long to reinstall.!
So since this task is obviously fresh in your mind, do YOU have any tips for your cracked E body dash brethren?
Quote from: Chryco on September 14, 2019, 12:53:22 PM
Thanks gents took 5 hrs to pull it out. I expect twice as long to reinstall.!
It might actually go in a little quicker. You know exactly where all the fasteners are and you know exactly which tools work best to reach up in there. Plus you won't have dust and other crud falling in your face while you work.
Quote from: Chryco on September 14, 2019, 12:53:22 PM
Thanks gents took 5 hrs to pull it out. I expect twice as long to reinstall.!
Ahhh...just bill your customer... :haha: :haha: :haha:
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Never done it before, but removing one tomorrow.
Going to try removing just the pad itself without disturbing too much of the rest of the dash.
Likely end up taking everything apart, but i've got my fingers crossed, we'll see how it goes. :headbang:
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Ashtray, glovebox, gauge bezels and A/C duct all have to come out.
Get a pic of a dash pad so you can see where all the screws are.
:fingerscrossed:
Quote from: Katfish on September 15, 2019, 06:01:19 PM
Ashtray, glovebox, gauge bezels and A/C duct all have to come out.
Get a pic of a dash pad so you can see where all the screws are.
Depending on age and flexibility, removing the seats really makes the job easier. Unless I'm just changing a fuse or a flasher, I remove the seat(s) now that I'm over 50.
I agree: Pull the seats, it makes things a ton better.
My picture contribution. It's high resolution (1.36M @ 1600 x 1200) so it'll be easier to see if the file is downloaded.
Thanks for those pictures. They will help me with my dash build.
Quote from: Finoke on September 16, 2019, 04:30:38 AM
:fingerscrossed:
That's funny, I created that many moons ago to remind me what to do.
Quote from: Katfish on September 16, 2019, 02:18:38 PM
Quote from: Finoke on September 16, 2019, 04:30:38 AM
:fingerscrossed:
That's funny, I created that many moons ago to remind me what to do.
Thx Katfish! It's that good that I saved it for many years. Didn't even remember where it came from but it's spot on. :banana:
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Thanks for the chart and actual picture of the stud locations . . . and all the tips as well! :ohyeah:
Ended up taking me about 4 hours to get it out.
Ever wonder how the 1970 challenger emblem is held in place?
The 5 plastic emblem studs pierce through the vinyl, and then the "push-on" clips are fastened from the back side, sandwiching the vinyl in-between.
But that's not all . . . the dense foam rubber is then molded around the studs and clips to make it impossible to remove without ripping out the vinyl and chunks of foam rubber with it. Don't even think about removing one from a good dash folks!!
New pad will be going in at a later date
Quote from: Jay Bee on September 16, 2019, 08:53:39 AM
My picture contribution. It's high resolution (1.36M @ 1600 x 1200) so it'll be easier to see if the file is downloaded.
that's what I did, I also
painted the studs white so once the dash was installed I can easily spot them under the dash. I didn't remove the seats I found it actually more comfortable leaving them in.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND trimming the light bar area if your pad is not original. pre-fit install the clips and puncher the holes.
They speaker grill never fits the same you would need to have a few on hand to see which fits best.
If you have an original or 40 year old glove box, I would also recommend you purchase a new repoe before you begin. This glove box fell apart in my hands when I touched it. luckily I had one on the shelf.
Honestly the biggest pain was removing the screws from the back side of the lower heater control trim.
so, remove the ash tray, top of glove box liner, lower heater control trim, radio trim can stay just remove the top screws, pillar trim, don't try to bend the upper inner windshield trim back you may put a bend in it. lower steering column only from the 2 bots from the dash frame no need to touch the firewall bolts.
have fun!!
https://youtu.be/9ssnl2KP-nc
It's not a bad job at all. Plan on a longer time going back together because you would end up cleaning everything in site