I finally pulled the turn signal switch from my R/T to replace it. When I tried to put the new 1970 switch into the column, the flasher switch was not even close to fitting. I have the original column in the car, and when I compare the two the flasher knob is definitely different. See the pics. My car has a production date of June 8, 1970, so is it possible a '71 switch got installed in my car?
The photos are hard to tell what one you have. The first photo is 1970 (with A01) and the 2nd photo is the 1971+ compared to the skinnier 70. What one do you have that you are trying to put in? Do you have an A01 light bar in the column?
This might help. :fingerscrossed: Go to 24 minutes / 16 seconds.
Here are some more pics: The first is the switch from my R/T with the thin flasher knob compared to the "1970" switch I got from Year One. The second is a close up of the knobs where you can see the thicker knob on the new switch. The third pic is a column I have from a '70 Challenger with a Feb 12. build date that has the A01 light package. You can see the thicker knob on this column. The fourth pic is of the new switch and the column switch and you can see they are the same. The last pic is the switch I pulled compared to the column and you can see they are different knobs.
The narrow one is correct for 1970, the wider one and your new one from YearOne is correct for 71+. :alan2cents:
Quote from: anlauto on April 12, 2017, 06:25:48 PM
The narrow one is correct for 1970, the wider one and your new one from YearOne is correct for 71+. :alan2cents:
I've read that before, but how do you explain the wider one on an original 1970 column like in the pics above? The car it came out of I bought in 1987 and it was all original.
UPDATE: so anyone else will not run into this problem........
The current reproduction part being sold as a "1970" switch is NOT! The part is listed as the "current factory replacement" which in reality is the 71-74 piece, and the "steering column must be modified". I spoke with Year One this morning about it so I am returning my part.
Could have easily been replaced under warranty or something? Might have been a late 70 car too? :notsure: But as you can see in the video around the 24 minute mark you will need to sand down the reproductions to make it work in a 70 column. But if it was me, I would change the knob out so you have the correct knob for 1970 and the A01 light package. I show how to in the video, but if you have any problems just PM me your number and I'll call and walk you through it. :slapme5:
Quote from: erik70rt on April 13, 2017, 05:53:58 AM
Quote from: anlauto on April 12, 2017, 06:25:48 PM
The narrow one is correct for 1970, the wider one and your new one from YearOne is correct for 71+. :alan2cents:
I've read that before, but how do you explain the wider one on an original 1970 column like in the pics above? The car it came out of I bought in 1987 and it was all original.
I saw that in your video. Was going to send it back, but I guess I'll swap out the knob. All this for lousy brake lights! LOL
quick question as am in the middle of the same repair how did you snake it down the column without removing it i have it halfway into just the hard part is trying to get it sideways
Quote from: hato on April 13, 2017, 01:23:23 PM
quick question as am in the middle of the same repair how did you snake it down the column without removing it i have it halfway into just the hard part is trying to get it sideways
best way to install without taking the column apart is to remove the old switch by cutting the wires at the top then use the old wires to pull the new wires into the column.... I actually remove the connector, pull the wires into place then reinstall the connector..... Snap a photo before you remove the connector so you know how to reinstall the wires..
If you already pulled the wires feeding one wire through is usually pretty easy, do that, remove the connector shell, tape all the wires together & to the single wire & use that wire to pull the others through....
I have never bought at Jimsautoparts, but in his website there is a 70 only reproduction turn signal switch.
https://www.jimsautoparts.com/electric.htm
Quote from: chal340 on April 13, 2017, 01:45:07 PM
I have never bought at Jimsautoparts, but in his website there is a 70 only reproduction turn signal switch.
https://www.jimsautoparts.com/electric.htm
Do yourself a favor & keep it that way.......
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 13, 2017, 01:47:59 PM
Quote from: chal340 on April 13, 2017, 01:45:07 PM
I have never bought at Jimsautoparts, but in his website there is a 70 only reproduction turn signal switch.
https://www.jimsautoparts.com/electric.htm
Do yourself a favor & keep it that way.......
Yes, I heard that on MOPARTS, it's for this I have never bought et him.
But if he sells 70 only, someone fabricate it, so maybe it's possible to find one. no?
Quote from: hato on April 13, 2017, 01:23:23 PM
quick question as am in the middle of the same repair how did you snake it down the column without removing it i have it halfway into just the hard part is trying to get it sideways
patience :alan2cents:
Quote from: chal340 on April 13, 2017, 01:45:07 PM
I have never bought at Jimsautoparts, but in his website there is a 70 only reproduction turn signal switch.
https://www.jimsautoparts.com/electric.htm
Read what I posted above - the current "1970 correct switch" being sold on the market is NOT correct for 1970 cars.
Quote from: hato on April 13, 2017, 01:23:23 PM
quick question as am in the middle of the same repair how did you snake it down the column without removing it i have it halfway into just the hard part is trying to get it sideways
I tied a piece of string to the connector and fed that through the column first. Then gently pull the wiring through.
Not to take over the post but a related question - anyone accidentally bump the turn signal lever and have it come loose? I think there is a screw on the turn signal switch but do you have to pull off the steering wheel assembly to get to it? Any suggestion as to how to keep this screw tight because I am just a clutz with long legs?
Steering wheel has to come off, hitting it with your leg shouldn't loosen it, I'd suspect it never got fully tightened... You could put a drop of purple loctite on it but it shouldn't be necessary...
:iagree: Once they are tight it normally stays tight. But it's not very hard to remove and get to. In the video about 1:20 minutes in.....
Yep, ya got to pull the can off and tighten it down and I hit it with Red Loctite.
It really doesn't take that long if you have a appropriate puller.
I thought someone said they was an access hole in the can so it doesn't have to come off ? :dunno:
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 13, 2017, 01:47:59 PM
Quote from: chal340 on April 13, 2017, 01:45:07 PM
I have never bought at Jimsautoparts, but in his website there is a 70 only reproduction turn signal switch.
https://www.jimsautoparts.com/electric.htm
Do yourself a favor & kdeep it that way.......
:iagree:
The redesign happened so that it would be easier to change the ignition lamp bulb on A01 cars.
Best thing for you to do will be to install your original black flasher knob onto the reproduction switch.
:clapping: great photo showing the difference between the two!!!!
Quote from: hato on April 13, 2017, 01:23:23 PM
quick question as am in the middle of the same repair how did you snake it down the column without removing it i have it halfway into just the hard part is trying to get it sideways
The bottom of the steering column has a wiring cover that's held in place with 2 short bolts.
Once that's removed, it should be really easy to slide the wires through, big flat connecter and all.
The wiring cover is metal in 1970, and plastic in later years, but either will work.
Quote from: cataclysm80 on April 14, 2017, 09:16:55 PM
Best thing for you to do will be to install your original black flasher knob onto the reproduction switch.
If you don't want to bother with using rivets for reassembly, I've found that these stainless machine screws with nylock nuts work fine.
Quote from: anlauto on April 14, 2017, 12:29:16 PM
I thought someone said they was an access hole in the can so it doesn't have to come off ? :dunno:
I'll have to look for that next time I'm putting one together.
That could save some time. If an access hole exists in the crush can, then you wouldn't need a puller to change a turn signal lever.
Quote from: cataclysm80 on April 14, 2017, 09:43:45 PM
Quote from: anlauto on April 14, 2017, 12:29:16 PM
I thought someone said they was an access hole in the can so it doesn't have to come off ? :dunno:
I'll have to look for that next time I'm putting one together.
That could save some time. If an access hole exists in the crush can, then you wouldn't need a puller to change a turn signal lever.
It does exist. There are two holes - 180 degrees apart
Quote from: erik70rt on April 15, 2017, 05:55:59 AM
Quote from: cataclysm80 on April 14, 2017, 09:43:45 PM
Quote from: anlauto on April 14, 2017, 12:29:16 PM
I thought someone said they was an access hole in the can so it doesn't have to come off ? :dunno:
I'll have to look for that next time I'm putting one together.
That could save some time. If an access hole exists in the crush can, then you wouldn't need a puller to change a turn signal lever.
It does exist. There are two holes - 180 degrees apart
I will look at this next week and try to get a pic.
hi, I read this post while searching the net. i bought the turn signal switch said to fit my 1970 challenger, but just as noted here the hazard switch was too wide. i grinded it but connecting the switch nothing works; my rear turn signal lights flash at the same time, when turning on the power and give a turn signal only the rear light works, and on the wrong side. the only thing that seems to work is the hazard, then both front and rear blinks, as well as the instrumentation bulbs.
my question is hence; is the size of the hazard light switch knob the only thing that differs the years?
is my new one simply a result of poor labour, i.e. faulty, wrong connected or such? my new one looks like very cheap compaired to the original, and it is bought from the states and is said to be "authentic mopar"
thanks in advance, Johan