So my driver's front caliper froze up and I want to replace it. I can't find them anywhere. Autozone, Advance Auto, Napa, O Reilly's, Value Auto....no one carries them. What are you guys using for calipers? I'm not looking for anything exotic, just oem replacements.
These calipers are original equipment. And How does that brake hose come off from the caliper?
As you can see in your photo, the metal end of the brake hose has a hex fitting on it. There are male threads on the end of the brake hose that thread into the caliper. Just use a flare nut wrench to back it out.
Rebuild kits are readily available and are just a couple of bucks, and the pistons are also available if yours is too pitted. I'd tear apart the one you have and try to rebuild it. :alan2cents:
Looks like RockAuto has them if you decide against rebuilding the ones you have.
:iagree:
Use the master cylinder to push the piston out , polish the bore with steel wool or 1000 grit sandpaper , change the seal & use a c clamp to push the piston backin with brake fluid as a lubricant .
O'reilly in Michigan shows $28.00 plus $5.00 core In stock depending on the store or August 25 to have shipped to store.
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on August 20, 2020, 10:41:45 PM
:iagree:
Use the master cylinder to push the piston out , polish the bore with steel wool or 1000 grit sandpaper , change the seal & use a c clamp to push the piston backin with brake fluid as a lubricant .
:iagree: When you use air to push out the piston be sure to leave one old brake pad in place to keep it contained..... and don't have your fingers in the way.
Try RockAuto...they likely have them... :alan2cents:
Yes, Oreily, Autozone, Advance all carry them with two to three day order... $27.99 plus core. Just do a search for caliber.
BUT make sure its the caliber that is froze! On my 74 Challenger the drivers side appeared to be frozen, but, when i started to remove it by first removing the hose at the top, it released ! Turns out my caliber was fine, and it was the hose that needed replacement...apparently broken inside the hose so it wasn't releasing the hydraulic pressure.
Yep, Advance Auto lists them for $27.99 plus a $20 core. These cars aren't getting any younger. I'd consider just paying the core and keeping your original ones. You never know when they might come in handy. Plus you're the original owner of the car. I hate seeing original parts get tossed or turned in as cores.
Quote from: chargerdon on August 21, 2020, 05:40:17 AM
Yes, Oreily, Autozone, Advance all carry them with two to three day order... $27.99 plus core. Just do a search for caliber.
BUT make sure its the caliber that is froze! On my 74 Challenger the drivers side appeared to be frozen, but, when i started to remove it by first removing the hose at the top, it released ! Turns out my caliber was fine, and it was the hose that needed replacement...apparently broken inside the hose so it wasn't releasing the hydraulic pressure.
This is common on many cars. The hose can appear fine but it isn't inside
I rebuilt my OE's that had been sitting about 16-years with no issues, not difficult but the dust boot was somewhat frustrating.. There's you-tube videos if you want to study on that.
There was some stain that I could not clean out but nothing that interfered with the seal
Also a great time to replace the brake hoses.
You can call Brad at Brake Warehouse in Minneapolis. He just restored/rebuilt two sets of originals for my 70 and also my 70 disk brake original MC. Top notch guy. I think my calipers were roughly $60 each but you'd have to ask him as I sent him a ton of stuff at once. By the way, if you use the prepaid boxes from USPS, it's $15.05 to send him a pair of calipers.
Here's his contact information: Brad (763) 355-2183
Quote from: 7E-Bodies on August 21, 2020, 07:35:15 AM
You can call Brad at Brake Warehouse in Minneapolis. He just restored/rebuilt two sets of originals for my 70 and also my 70 disk brake original MC. Top notch guy. I think my calipers were roughly $60 each but you'd have to ask him as I sent him a ton of stuff at once. By the way, if you use the prepaid boxes from USPS, it's $15.05 to send him a pair of calipers.
Here's his contact information: Brad (763) 355-2183
None of my business, but, If you decide that you
need calibers why would you want to pay $60 apiece plus $15 for shipping to have a Brake Warehouse or a local garage when you can buy rebuilt calibers off the shelf for $28 each?? Not to mention having to wait probably several weeks for the shipping and the work. Look $60 each is a reasonable price when you consider that most garages charge $50-$100 hr for labor, and i'm sure each will take nearly an hour to do. When your not set up to do them repetitively.
There are NO serial numbers on them to prove that they came with the car!! Even if there was, i have never ever seen a show inspector climb under a car with flashlight to look at the calibers !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BUT, if you can get them for $28 each plus your cores why???? This i'snt rocket science were talking about, it sounds like a straight forward task. Also, there is only 1 moving part in these calibers that being the single piston... So long as its cleaned out and a good seal hard to screw it up !! If the major part vendor caliber were to fail the ones for Advance come with a limited lifetime replacement. They will give you another !!
Look, none of the three IF you get them at any of the three big name parts dealers or Rock Auto are new they are ALL rebuilt. So they are probably originals not a cheap Chinese knockoff !!
Quote from: chargerdon on August 21, 2020, 10:52:48 AM
Quote from: 7E-Bodies on August 21, 2020, 07:35:15 AM
You can call Brad at Brake Warehouse in Minneapolis. He just restored/rebuilt two sets of originals for my 70 and also my 70 disk brake original MC. Top notch guy. I think my calipers were roughly $60 each but you'd have to ask him as I sent him a ton of stuff at once. By the way, if you use the prepaid boxes from USPS, it's $15.05 to send him a pair of calipers.
Here's his contact information: Brad (763) 355-2183
None of my business, but, If you decide that you need calibers why would you want to pay $60 apiece plus $15 for shipping to have a Brake Warehouse or a local garage when you can buy rebuilt calibers off the shelf for $28 each?? Not to mention having to wait probably several weeks for the shipping and the work. Look $60 each is a reasonable price when you consider that most garages charge $50-$100 hr for labor, and i'm sure each will take nearly an hour to do. When your not set up to do them repetitively.
There are NO serial numbers on them to prove that they came with the car!! Even if there was, i have never ever seen a show inspector climb under a car with flashlight to look at the calibers !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BUT, if you can get them for $28 each plus your cores why???? This i'snt rocket science were talking about, it sounds like a straight forward task. Also, there is only 1 moving part in these calibers that being the single piston... So long as its cleaned out and a good seal hard to screw it up !! If the major part vendor caliber were to fail the ones for Advance come with a limited lifetime replacement. They will give you another !!
Look, none of the three IF you get them at any of the three big name parts dealers or Rock Auto are new they are ALL rebuilt. So they are probably originals not a cheap Chinese knockoff !!
Actually there ARE casting numbers on the calipers and the ones used in 1970 are specific to that year only. The 1970 "wide mouth" calipers also look different than the later year calipers. Maybe not an issue for the OP, who appears to have a later year car, but for some folks that level of detail matters. :alan2cents:
Agreed, if the numbers don't matter, get rebuilt from Advanced Auto.
I only paid $15, but that was 10yrs ago.
One started leaking a couple of years ago and they replaced at no cost with no issue.
He simply stated about OEM replacement. I simply replied with my opinion. As for me, one thing mattered for a $60 rebuild expense. 80012. That's it. List a rebuilt set of those for $250-$300 and see what happens.
Quote from: 7E-Bodies on August 21, 2020, 11:41:18 AM
He simply stated about OEM replacement. I simply replied with my opinion. As for me, one thing mattered for a $60 rebuild expense. 80012. That's it. List a rebuilt set of those for $250-$300 and see what happens.
Wasn't trying to insult anyone, just trying to understand why?? To me, a part that
cant be seen doesnt matter whether it is original or not. But then i'm not a purist !!!
I looked on Rock Auto for the fun of it. They show for 70 Barracuda rebuilt calipers by Nugeon with a picture that shows KH 80012 on it ...$23.95... then on 70 Cuda rebuilt from centrix again with picture showing KH 80012 for $24. I wonder if you order them if they would come in with the cast numbers on or if those are just representative pictures !!
Quote from: chargerdon on August 23, 2020, 05:13:16 AM
Quote from: 7E-Bodies on August 21, 2020, 11:41:18 AM
He simply stated about OEM replacement. I simply replied with my opinion. As for me, one thing mattered for a $60 rebuild expense. 80012. That's it. List a rebuilt set of those for $250-$300 and see what happens.
Wasn't trying to insult anyone, just trying to understand why?? To me, a part that cant be seen doesnt matter whether it is original or not. But then i'm not a purist !!!
I looked on Rock Auto for the fun of it. They show for 70 Barracuda rebuilt calipers by Nugeon with a picture that shows KH 80012 on it ...$23.95... then on 70 Cuda rebuilt from centrix again with picture showing KH 80012 for $24. I wonder if you order them if they would come in with the cast numbers on or if those are just representative pictures !!
I find it's used to be a 50/50 shot whether or not you would get a 70 wide mouth caliper....it's probably close to 90/10 nowadays that you won't, but I agree it's worth a shot.
Update: I bought my calipers at O Reilly's. Perfect match. I also replaced the brake hoses from the calipers to the frame. Well, that didn't go so good on the driver's side.
The line twisted at the flare nut on the frame. I removed the other end of the line at the proportion vavle. Now I need to recreate the brake line. No one seems to make them. My question is why does the brake line have a finned liner over it.....is this for heat transfer? Where do I find brake line like this? Are my factory calipers worth keeping or should I turn them in for my $15 core return.
Any parts store should have the shielded brake line that you need. You'll just have to bend it to fit which is a bit tricky on the tight bends without kinking the line.
Since your calipers are original to the car, if it were me, I'd keep them but it's up to you.
Fine Lines and Inline Tube make replacement brake lines with the spiral shielding on it. The shield is there to protect the line from rocks.
Inline tube sells stainless line and the coil spring to install on it if you want to go that route. Hassle free 40 years from now!
Pick up a nitrous line bender from Summit racing....makes custom bending your brake lines super easy and its not expensive.
Well first off, buying a copy of that exact line should be very easy, there's a couple of companies that make them, but I agree, if you're only interested in fixing that one line...measure it out, go back to O Reilly's, they likely sell or can get for you a straight piece, close to the length you need, with the spiral shield already in place.
This one is only 8", a little short, but you get the idea... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_8131187
Quote from: chargerdon on August 23, 2020, 05:13:16 AM
Quote from: 7E-Bodies on August 21, 2020, 11:41:18 AM
He simply stated about OEM replacement. I simply replied with my opinion. As for me, one thing mattered for a $60 rebuild expense. 80012. That's it. List a rebuilt set of those for $250-$300 and see what happens.
Wasn't trying to insult anyone, just trying to understand why?? To me, a part that cant be seen doesnt matter whether it is original or not. But then i'm not a purist !!!
I looked on Rock Auto for the fun of it. They show for 70 Barracuda rebuilt calipers by Nugeon with a picture that shows KH 80012 on it ...$23.95... then on 70 Cuda rebuilt from centrix again with picture showing KH 80012 for $24. I wonder if you order them if they would come in with the cast numbers on or if those are just representative pictures !!
To you this may not mean anything. To some it means a lot. I personally couldn't care less, but I do respect that to some folks it is very important to maintain original part numbers or casting numbers or date codes on parts. Personally, if I had owned one of these cars since new, I might want to keep all original parts, even if I replaced them with some over the counter, equivilant replacements. However, since none of my cars fall into this category, I don't bother.
Four dollars for 30 inches of brake line, $10 for a cheap pair of 'line forming' pliers and 20 minutes later a solution is created. After a tad more of tweaking the new line fit perfectly. I bled both front brakes and ran out of time. Still need to put front tires back on and go for a road test.
Nice work! :bradsthumb:
You didn't bother with the spring shielded line ?
Quote from: anlauto on October 06, 2020, 04:33:28 AM
You didn't bother with the spring shielded line ?
[/quote
The counter guy said the plastic coated line was easier to shape than the spring covered line. I figured I would try it.
Just another note. The shielding on the metal line is just that, a shield. It protects the lines against damage cause by road debris possibly puncturing a line which would not be good. They do these things for reasons that not everyone might think about.
Quote from: MoparLeo on February 19, 2021, 11:14:49 AM
Just another note. The shielding on the metal line is just that, a shield. It protects the lines against damage cause by road debris possibly puncturing a line which would not be good. They do these things for reasons that not everyone might think about.
Yep, and it's relatively easy to nip the pre-flared end off one end of that pre-made line, slide the coil sheathing on and then make a new double flare end and you're done, and only lose an inch of the line. As for the stainless suggestion, I put SS lines on my Challenger, but they're sometimes a real SOB to get to seal as they;re harder than mild steel. Someone here relayed a great tip when they said to put a dab of antiseize where the flare nut meets the flare and it'll reduce friction and make the flare conform easier. Good tip! :cheers: