Front brake calipers

[chargerdon]

He simply stated about OEM replacement. I simply replied with my opinion. As for me, one thing mattered for a $60 rebuild expense. 80012. That's it. List a rebuilt set of those for $250-$300 and see what happens.

Wasn't trying to insult anyone, just trying to understand why??  To me, a part that cant be seen doesnt matter whether it is original or not.   But then i'm not a purist !!! 

I looked on Rock Auto for the fun of it.   They show for 70 Barracuda rebuilt calipers by Nugeon with a picture that shows KH 80012 on it ...$23.95...   then on 70 Cuda rebuilt from centrix again with picture showing KH 80012 for $24.    I wonder if you order them if they would come in with the cast numbers on or if those are just representative pictures !!

[anlauto]

He simply stated about OEM replacement. I simply replied with my opinion. As for me, one thing mattered for a $60 rebuild expense. 80012. That's it. List a rebuilt set of those for $250-$300 and see what happens.

Wasn't trying to insult anyone, just trying to understand why??  To me, a part that cant be seen doesnt matter whether it is original or not.   But then i'm not a purist !!! 

I looked on Rock Auto for the fun of it.   They show for 70 Barracuda rebuilt calipers by Nugeon with a picture that shows KH 80012 on it ...$23.95...   then on 70 Cuda rebuilt from centrix again with picture showing KH 80012 for $24.    I wonder if you order them if they would come in with the cast numbers on or if those are just representative pictures !!

I find it's used to be a 50/50 shot whether or not you would get a 70 wide mouth caliper....it's probably close to 90/10 nowadays that you won't, but I agree it's worth a shot.

[Hood]

Update:  I bought my calipers at O Reilly's.  Perfect match. I also replaced the brake hoses from the calipers to the frame.  Well, that didn't go so good on the driver's side.
The line twisted at the flare nut on the frame. I removed the other end of the line at the proportion vavle. Now I need to recreate the brake line. No one seems to make them.  My question is why does the brake line have a finned liner over it.....is this for heat transfer? Where do I find brake line like this?  Are my factory calipers worth keeping or should I turn them in for my $15 core return.

[RUNCHARGER]

Any parts store should have the shielded brake line that you need. You'll just have to bend it to fit which is a bit tricky on the tight bends without kinking the line.

[Burdar]

Since your calipers are original to the car, if it were me, I'd keep them but it's up to you.

Fine Lines and Inline Tube make replacement brake lines with the spiral shielding on it.  The shield is there to protect the line from rocks.

[TGGodfrey]

Inline tube sells stainless line and the coil spring to install on it if you want to go that route.  Hassle free 40 years from now!

Pick up a nitrous line bender from Summit racing....makes custom bending your brake lines super easy and its not expensive.

[anlauto]

Well first off, buying a copy of that exact line should be very easy, there's a couple of companies that make them, but I agree, if you're only interested in fixing that one line...measure it out, go back to O Reilly's, they likely sell or can get for you a straight piece, close to the length you need, with the spiral shield already in place.

This one is only 8", a little short, but you get the idea... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_8131187

[HP2]

He simply stated about OEM replacement. I simply replied with my opinion. As for me, one thing mattered for a $60 rebuild expense. 80012. That's it. List a rebuilt set of those for $250-$300 and see what happens.

Wasn't trying to insult anyone, just trying to understand why??  To me, a part that cant be seen doesnt matter whether it is original or not.   But then i'm not a purist !!! 

I looked on Rock Auto for the fun of it.   They show for 70 Barracuda rebuilt calipers by Nugeon with a picture that shows KH 80012 on it ...$23.95...   then on 70 Cuda rebuilt from centrix again with picture showing KH 80012 for $24.    I wonder if you order them if they would come in with the cast numbers on or if those are just representative pictures !!

To you this may not mean anything. To some it means a lot. I personally couldn't care less, but I do respect that to some folks it is very important to maintain original part numbers or casting numbers or date codes on parts. Personally, if I had owned one of these cars since new, I might want to keep all original parts, even if I replaced them with some over the counter, equivilant replacements. However, since none of my cars fall into this category, I don't bother.

[Hood]

Four dollars for 30 inches of brake line, $10 for a cheap pair of 'line forming' pliers and 20 minutes later a solution is created.  After a tad more of tweaking the new line fit perfectly.  I bled both front brakes and ran out of time.  Still need to put front tires back on and go for a road test.

[7E-Bodies]

Nice work!

[anlauto]

You didn't bother with the spring shielded line ?

[Hood]

You didn't bother with the spring shielded line ?
[/quote

The counter guy said the plastic coated line was easier to shape than the spring covered line. I figured I would try it.

[MoparLeo]

Just another note. The shielding on the metal line is just that, a shield. It protects the lines against damage cause by road debris possibly puncturing a line which would not be good. They do these things for reasons that not everyone might think about.

[jimynick]

Just another note. The shielding on the metal line is just that, a shield. It protects the lines against damage cause by road debris possibly puncturing a line which would not be good. They do these things for reasons that not everyone might think about.

Yep, and it's relatively easy to nip the pre-flared end off one end of that pre-made line, slide the coil sheathing on and then make a new double flare end and you're done, and only lose an inch of the line. As for the stainless suggestion, I put SS lines on my Challenger, but they're sometimes a real SOB to get to seal as they;re harder than mild steel. Someone here relayed a great tip when they said to put a dab of antiseize where the flare nut meets the flare and it'll reduce friction and make the flare conform easier. Good tip!