I know, I know....I overthink everything. Finally got the car media blasted. :ohyeah:
My car will be in primer soon. I'm having it painted toxic orange....basically it's a burnt orange...has pearl in it.
My question is should I get a orange color primer as I plan to drive my car, and I'm thinking it would look less obvious when I get chips in the paint vs a grey primer? I DONT WANT TO REPAINT THIS CAR. I plan to drive it and I'm trying to think long term.
Thanks
Here is my car as of yesterday...
The last 2 pics are my main areas of obvious rust. Should I order panels? I was thinking AMD. Dave, you sell these?
@MoparDave (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/mopardave_10)
Talk about service. Dang that was one heck of an answer. I'll take that all into consideration. My painter is giving me a quote tomorrow for the body work. I don't think he's done the research on paint though. I think toxic orange is going to be a 3 stage paint. Not sure what that means, probably more $$$.
I'll tell him about the DP74 ppg epoxy red primer.
I'll also talk to him about the white sealer you mentioned before.
I will request paint samples too. The painter already mentioned that to me.
Im fearful of the total paint costs, but like most of this resto, multiply by 2 and that's what I end up spending.
Is base coat DBC the actual paint color?
How many gallons of primer do I need? Not sure if that's possible to answer. The car was media blasted and the whole entire car will be put in primer.
How many gallons of paint will I need? The interior will NOT be painted body color NOR will the underside of the car. But the engine bay and trunk and jams and entire car obviously will be painted body color.
:thankyou:
Neil
DBC is the line of the PPG product. It's the base (color) portion of your paint job. The clear goes over it to create a long lasting paint job. Here's the spec sheet:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/docs/ppgdbcp.pdf
It's mixed at 1 to 1. So if you have 1 gallon of paint, you mix it with 1 gallon of thinner and you get 2 gallons of spray-able product.
The clear I use is 2021:
http://www.automotivepaintandequipment.com/pdf/deltron/topcoats/P-199_DCU2021pic.pdf
I've heard good things about 2002 too, but have not worked with it much. They both have a super high solid rating (around 41.5% to 42%).
http://buyat.ppg.com/RefinishProductCatalog/ServeFile.ashx?FileId=AA241B4C-80B5-4800-9AFC-149F18BFE2D2
The DP Epoxy spec sheet is here.
http://www.custom-aerosol.com/pdf/ppg-dplf-epoxy-primer-product-sheet.pdf
The prices that were quoted to you seem a bit high. Your painter should get at least jobber pricing so ask him to see what he can get it for.
Like Cody said. Don't cut corners on paint and materials. Yes it's higher than hell and a tough pill to swallow. But the last thing you want is something failing after your car is all done. Then everything you did or paid for is for nothing. Think of it like building a house. It's only as good as the foundation. Also be sure compressed air is filtered really good. Even on the primer. Moisture in the air supply will come back to bit you down the road. You won't know it's a problem while your spraying it on but with time tiny clusters of little bubbles will start to appear.
I used 2 1/2 gallons of base and 3 gallons of clear on my Cuda. Jambs and little parts here and there painted separately really eat the materials. I can't even remember how much primer, poly surfacer and filler I went through.
Ya the tree hugging freaks are helping to kill us body shops!!!!! :barf: Us evil, polluting, global warming contributing automotive re-finishers. And let us not forget the company's that produce the product. :bigmoney:
Lots of tree huggers here. Lots of laws in California. My painter quoted me $13,000 for primer, paint and body work. He will install the glass and trim, I have to put everything else back together. I ordered the only panel he needs today so thats nice I dont have a bunch of panel replacement.
I made it clear I didnt want cheap paint. He said he buys paint in Los Angeles which is 60 miles south of me. I will be sure to watch this part of the process carefully as I dont want regrets, I want a paint job that will look good way down the road. I dont want to repaint this car.
Thanks for everything guys. Trying to not cut corners, just gets hard sometimes as every turn costs me double what I imagine.
Neil
PPG Toxic Orange paint, 1 gallon...only $1300 :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
Somehow my painter is getting it connected to urethane vs water. Hes buying it. Part of the deal. I think I am ripping him off now.
$13,000 for body and paint seemed cheap to me. The material and time add up fast. :yes: But I'm sure there's still enough there for your guy to make a bit of money. Can't wait to see your car painted!!!! :popcorn:
Quote from: nsmall on May 16, 2017, 03:27:44 PM
just gets hard sometimes as every turn costs me double what I imagine.
welcome to building an E body.
Quote from: Shane Kelley on May 16, 2017, 07:51:51 AM
Jambs and little parts here and there painted separately really eat the materials.
Yep, no doubt. When I worked at our airport, we always tried to have extra parts ready to spray with primer/sealer to use up any extra paint in the gun.
Quote from: nsmall on May 16, 2017, 03:27:44 PM
My painter quoted me $13,000 for primer, paint and body work.
Wow! Now I don't feel so bad about what I just paid to have my 'Cuda painted. :banana:
I'll share pics once there is some paint. My painter is moving fast. I'm beginning to think I won't have parts restored in time. I guess that's a good thing.