First I'm pretty good at figuring out sh!t but electrical is probably my weak area although I learn pretty fast. So I am converting to a rallye dash and am at the end of the procedure and this morning I finally put power to the system with hopes all would be good. First good thing is nothing caught on fire, next the starter did engage when I turned the key. Couple problems as follows with the first being the biggest issue . .
Convertible top did nothing and it is down. If I cannot figure this out, may have to go to plan B for the trip to Carlisle.
So first question is about the new rallye dash harness . . The old fuse box used all the spots for fuses but the new one has one empty on the top left? Why is one not used? So which fuse is for the convertible top?
Also when I powered the system, the oil pressure gauge went all the way to high
Let's start with these questions and maybe I can get this figured out. I pulled it all apart and tried the old power top switch and same result . . No power.
The rallye gauge oil sender may be different than a standard gauge sender .
Does the old standard dash even have an oil gauge or does it have a light? LIght would use a switch type sending unit vs a variable for gauge
Now I'm not positive but I don't think the power top has a fuse, it's wire direct, it could have a circuit breaker
I don't think the wrong oil sending unit would make the gauge peg, but that's just a guess. I'd be more prone to see if the grey wire is grounding out somewhere. You know, kind of how we check fuel sending gauges by grounding the blue wire.
Do you have the 30A convertible top circuit breaker (not a fuse) on the fuse block. It should be right beside the horn relay. If it's there check to make sure the connector didn't come loose from the top switch when the switch panel went back in. I've had various switch plugs come off when putting that back in.
Quote from: 73chalngr on July 09, 2023, 10:59:05 AM
The rallye gauge oil sender may be different than a standard gauge sender .
They are NOT the same sending unit.. :alan2cents:
Okay, I found this picture and it says that circuit breaker I have beside my horn relay is "window lift" BUT I have manual windows. Also this picture goes on to say that "D" is "window lift safety relay". So take all this with a grain of salt.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165569319724?hash=item268cb3532c:g:aYUAAOSwdsFUNKex&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8MawQP5c4D8Nr9Rpourk9TqLaJY8311O8VN2fPUo%2Fg2IQxb%2F3KVPJKWIHWK755lkruTqT6cVQuFIieXQowK96ViMEakRZ9bqTqZNXCbsm2GRdbfUe6ZG0Mr%2BpJQstHRvu2uO6KkH%2B%2B%2BXbRWsk2OBsTw0CKoQW%2F1ZCnpJlxM4xD0TSsy7Ta7sGI0OTzTjtt75XXAuNpWQvbr%2FmELus55PKo%2F8ckTOoG01WWJTnjlZwN%2FsmcN%2ByMWa8k1%2B8U6A7plIRgrGmyU09Ijoa4wbL6s7o%2BoIeSMimM954TMv%2FiBia8gUf%2BQbHEx9tg86sHF%2B93ILSg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_K6oMCn
EDIT: Corrected the picture
More info.
Pic 1 back of fuse box: Red & Red w/Black tracer are convertible top circuit breaker wires.
Pic 2 front of fuse box: convertible top circuit breaker beside horn relay.
The rallye sending unit pictured is a variable resistor for a gauge. The standard dash is a switch I would say (my '85 Daytona has both). The switch is for an idiot light and yes I believe a switch will peg the gauge as it will switch directly to ground
The convertible top uses a separate harness you would have had to save from your old main dash harness :alan2cents:
Thanks for the answers so far. I bought a complete rallye cluster and side panel with the correct Top Lift switch. I did find the convertible wiring harness and wired it into the new harness like the old one was . .so the missing fuse circuit is not part of the no power situation. As stated, I will get in there and make sure all stayed connected when installed. Certainly worked before tearing apart. And I took the old switch and hooked it up with the same result. Those pictures are a helpful start . .
I read on FEBO that the Red & Red w/Black tracer should be oriented as in the picture.
So double checked and appears to be as stated. I’m gonna tear the front apart and make sure all is connected securely. Your circuit breaker has a 130 and mine has 189 on it but certainly looks the same. Assume that is an inspector number or something . .
Quote from: Jay Bee on July 09, 2023, 03:00:16 PM
I read on FEBO that the Red & Red w/Black tracer should be oriented as in the picture.
Now that’s interesting . . I may have mixed them up?
just checked the circuit breaker on my 70 Challenger Vert and it has numbers 389. It is most likely not original, but also does not look new :dunno: It does work :)
Did you get this figured out?
If not please call me tomorrow at 614-306-7920 and I'll do what I can to help.
Just to clarify, those pictures aren't my fuse block. They were taken from this FEBO thread where Slotts explained those 2 wires.
https://www.forebodiesonly.com/forum/threads/convertible-dash-wiring-advice.18072/
Only because I did not see it mentioned in previous posts, the Top Lift gets its power directly off one side of the ammeter. So make sure that's connected and getting power.
Quote from: ZippyZoo on July 10, 2023, 08:33:04 PM
Only because I did not see it mentioned in previous posts, the Top Lift gets its power directly off one side of the ammeter. So make sure that's connected and getting power.
Now there is something I have been thinking about . . How does it get power to that part of the fuse box?
Slotts point 2 of Reply #2 in the FEBO link sort of alludes to that.
Quote from: Spikedog08 on July 10, 2023, 08:50:04 PM
Quote from: ZippyZoo on July 10, 2023, 08:33:04 PM
Only because I did not see it mentioned in previous posts, the Top Lift gets its power directly off one side of the ammeter. So make sure that's connected and getting power.
Now there is something I have been thinking about . . How does it get power to that part of the fuse box?
It doesn't get power there at all, the fuse box is just a holder for the relay. The circuit gets power at the ammeter as mentioned.
Very helpful . . Hope to have this figured out soon.
So where does the light bar wire run to get behind the dash? :dunno: