I'm starting my research as I will be trying my hand at painting my resor project. Right now it's in primer from a previous owner but has been sitting outside for the last 10 years.
I will be stripping the car to bare metal and starting from scratch. With that said I'm a little overwhelmed by the paint processes I'm being recommended. I've painted before but it was body filler, primer and then base coat. It seems now there is a few extra step.
Is what I have below correct and or what you would do for a 2 stage paint?
Bare metal, body filler, Epoxy primer, 2k urethane, base, clear.
For the engine bay can I just scuff up the old paint coat, degrease and go straight to base?
Quote from: truckinman466 on November 17, 2018, 05:23:16 PM
Epoxy first,then do your bodywork. I'm no pro but, I was told this before I started on my project. Body filler will hold moisture but if you primer first it will seal the metal
Yes that is true. Epoxy primer and some etch primers like Vera-prime made by Exalta, formerly known as Dupont.
:wrenching: Epoxy Primer or etch primer, body work, primer filler, guide coat block sand repeat as necessary until glass smooth, then color coat and Clear coat, wet sand in different grade stages, then buff. Those are your basic stages in a nut shell.
Quote from: 1Burgfish on November 18, 2018, 11:08:29 AM
:wrenching: Epoxy Primer or etch primer, body work, primer filler, guide coat block sand repeat as necessary until glass smooth, then color coat and Clear coat, wet sand in different grade stages, then buff. Those are your basic stages in a nut shell.
I agree with you on 95% of this... but you left one out.
Epoxy Primer, body work, primer filler, guide coat block sand repeat as necessary until glass smooth.
Sealer, then color coat and Clear coat, wet sand in different grade stages, then buff.
5 or 6 more times of reading this I may get it straight. Lol
Quote from: wldgtx on November 19, 2018, 04:04:47 AM
Quote from: 1Burgfish on November 18, 2018, 11:08:29 AM
:wrenching: Epoxy Primer or etch primer, body work, primer filler, guide coat block sand repeat as necessary until glass smooth, then color coat and Clear coat, wet sand in different grade stages, then buff. Those are your basic stages in a nut shell.
I agree with you on 95% of this... but you left one out.
Epoxy Primer, body work, primer filler, guide coat block sand repeat as necessary until glass smooth. Sealer, then color coat and Clear coat, wet sand in different grade stages, then buff.
What is the sealer?
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Quote from: Yobie on December 08, 2018, 06:16:12 PM
Quote from: wldgtx on November 19, 2018, 04:04:47 AM
Quote from: 1Burgfish on November 18, 2018, 11:08:29 AM
:wrenching: Epoxy Primer or etch primer, body work, primer filler, guide coat block sand repeat as necessary until glass smooth, then color coat and Clear coat, wet sand in different grade stages, then buff. Those are your basic stages in a nut shell.
I agree with you on 95% of this... but you left one out.
Epoxy Primer, body work, primer filler, guide coat block sand repeat as necessary until glass smooth. Sealer, then color coat and Clear coat, wet sand in different grade stages, then buff.
What is the sealer?
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
So if I'm just going to paint over the old paint.
I have had to sand down to metal in areas due to rust. Would I just prime those spots with an epoxy then seal entire engine compartment and paint? Still not sure what the sealer is though as I dont really see these where I'm looking at paint tcp.
Thanks
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If you put new paint over old paint it will only be as good as your old paint. :alan2cents:
Best to take it down to metal. :alan2cents:
Sealer is the last step before base coat. It makes sure that any sand through is sealed up and it's designed to give you better base coverage with the right vivid base color. The color of your sealer will drastically change the finish color of your paint. PPG tells you what sealer tone to use with each base color.
The learning curve of body and paint can be tough but it's a true blessing with the internet age you can very easily get the advice of many people with solid experience .The bottom line with paint and body it's going to take some practice and perseverance
Just want to add once you know what your doing you can get results as good or better than a professional shop right at home .Production Shops these days let cars leave with visible runs ,fisheyes ,visible sand scratches. I also see the DIY people obsessed with building plastic paint booths in the garage what a waste of effort if you use some basic cleaning practice with dust control you can get professional results right in your garage
You didn't ask me but here is my :alan2cents: F8 has a lot of metallic, single stage is tricky to apply and not get zebra strips. I use Exalta, formerly Du-Pont. they also sell Nasons witch is there cheaper line. I personally would use Nasons base coat on the undercarriage and engine compartment. I use the snap clear over that, then chroma-base on the rest.
I painted my Vette myself and it is a ton of labor! The prep came out good and I had no trouble laying down the metallic silver blue paint. Trouble came for me on the Nason clear coat. While it was shiny, I just couldn't get it smooth. I had a shiny orange peel finish everywhere and was forced to sand it and buff it afterward. Looks decent now but it felt like I had to do twice the work. It sucked bad. I probably put the clear down to heavy or used to much air pressure. I'll never know for sure.
In contrast, on my RT, I bought some single stage acrylic urethane and it has been a real pleasure to work with. Might just be that I have learned along the way but I think this paint is more forgiving than spraying clear. Everything I have painted like interior, trunk, engine compartment, has come out really nice. And that's not even blocking stuff out and trying to get a nice finish.
Next time I paint the outside of a car, I'm gonna hire a pro to work by my side for the actual spraying. Not to do the work but only to advise me on setting up the gun, identifying problems before it's too late, etc. I'm confident an amateur like me can learn it but making mistakes is devastating so having a pro there to watch me might be worth a couple hundred bucks.
There are some colors that it's easier to use base / clear and single stage on the same car, but like JS29 said the metallic paints are much harder to use in single stage. I use the same paint all over the car so I do not have to worry about it matching. :alan2cents: