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DIY painting

Started by Yobie, November 17, 2018, 01:26:37 PM

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Yobie

I'm starting my research as I will be trying my hand at painting my resor project.  Right now it's in primer from a previous owner but has been sitting outside for the last 10 years.

I will be stripping the car to bare metal and starting from scratch.  With that said I'm a little overwhelmed by the paint processes I'm being recommended.  I've painted before but it was body filler, primer and then base coat.  It seems now there is a few extra step.


Is what I have below correct and or what you would do for a 2 stage paint?

Bare metal, body filler, Epoxy primer, 2k urethane, base, clear.

For the engine bay can I just scuff up the old paint coat, degrease and go straight to base?

Cuda Cody


truckinman466

Epoxy first,then do your bodywork. I'm no pro but, I was told this before I started on my project. Body filler will hold moisture but if you primer first it will seal the metal


JS29

Quote from: truckinman466 on November 17, 2018, 05:23:16 PM
Epoxy first,then do your bodywork. I'm no pro but, I was told this before I started on my project. Body filler will hold moisture but if you primer first it will seal the metal
Yes that is true. Epoxy primer and some etch primers like Vera-prime made by Exalta, formerly known as Dupont.

1Burgfish

 :wrenching: Epoxy Primer or etch primer, body work, primer filler, guide coat block sand repeat as necessary until glass smooth, then color coat and Clear coat, wet sand in different grade stages, then buff. Those are your basic stages in a nut shell.

wldgtx

Quote from: 1Burgfish on November 18, 2018, 11:08:29 AM
:wrenching: Epoxy Primer or etch primer, body work, primer filler, guide coat block sand repeat as necessary until glass smooth, then color coat and Clear coat, wet sand in different grade stages, then buff. Those are your basic stages in a nut shell.

I agree with you on 95% of this... but you left one out.

Epoxy Primer, body work, primer filler, guide coat block sand repeat as necessary until glass smooth. Sealer, then color coat and Clear coat, wet sand in different grade stages, then buff.
1968 Hemi GTX, 4 spd, RR1
1970 Challenger RT/SE, FC7 - FC7RTSE
1987 Buick Grand National

YellowThumper

5 or 6 more times of reading this I may get it straight. Lol
Life is to be viewed thru the windshield. Not rear view mirror.
You are the only one in charge of your destiny.

Mike.


1Burgfish

 :wrenching: wldgtx Thanks, I missed that one step :thankyou:


Yobie

Quote from: wldgtx on November 19, 2018, 04:04:47 AM
Quote from: 1Burgfish on November 18, 2018, 11:08:29 AM
:wrenching: Epoxy Primer or etch primer, body work, primer filler, guide coat block sand repeat as necessary until glass smooth, then color coat and Clear coat, wet sand in different grade stages, then buff. Those are your basic stages in a nut shell.

I agree with you on 95% of this... but you left one out.

Epoxy Primer, body work, primer filler, guide coat block sand repeat as necessary until glass smooth. Sealer, then color coat and Clear coat, wet sand in different grade stages, then buff.
What is the sealer?

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Yobie

Quote from: Yobie on December 08, 2018, 06:16:12 PM
Quote from: wldgtx on November 19, 2018, 04:04:47 AM
Quote from: 1Burgfish on November 18, 2018, 11:08:29 AM
:wrenching: Epoxy Primer or etch primer, body work, primer filler, guide coat block sand repeat as necessary until glass smooth, then color coat and Clear coat, wet sand in different grade stages, then buff. Those are your basic stages in a nut shell.

I agree with you on 95% of this... but you left one out.

Epoxy Primer, body work, primer filler, guide coat block sand repeat as necessary until glass smooth. Sealer, then color coat and Clear coat, wet sand in different grade stages, then buff.
What is the sealer?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
So if I'm just going to paint over the old paint.

I have had to sand down to metal in areas due to rust. Would I just prime those spots with an epoxy then seal entire engine compartment and paint? Still not sure what the sealer is though as I dont really see these where I'm looking at paint tcp.

Thanks

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Cuda Cody

If you put new paint over old paint it will only be as good as your old paint.   :alan2cents:

Best to take it down to metal.   :alan2cents:

Sealer is the last step before base coat.  It makes sure that any sand through is sealed up and it's designed to give you better base coverage with the right vivid base color.  The color of your sealer will drastically change the finish color of your paint.  PPG tells you what sealer tone to use with each base color.


Mopar5

The learning curve of body and paint can be tough but it's a true blessing with the internet age you can very easily get the advice of many people with solid experience .The bottom line with paint and body it's going to take some practice and perseverance

Mopar5

Just want to add once you know what your doing you can get results as good or better than a professional shop right at home .Production Shops these days let cars leave with visible runs ,fisheyes ,visible sand scratches. I also see the DIY people obsessed with building plastic paint booths in the garage what a waste of effort if you use some basic cleaning practice with dust control you can get professional results right in your garage

Ifixmycarmyself

Quote from: Cuda Cody on November 17, 2018, 01:31:00 PM
@Yobie   This might be of some use:

https://www.e-bodies.org/how-to-paint-a-show-car-step-by-step-guide/
Thanks for the very good instruction. One small question, would you use the sealer only on water-based modern paints or also on old fashion thinner based paints?

Cuda Cody

I always use a sealer on thinner based paints.  :alan2cents: