Sources for good 70 E body turn signal switch

[JH27N0B]

I got my T/A fired up for the first time in way too long yesterday, and drove it to a cruise night in my town.  My buddy informed me my brake lights aren't working.
Another friend there had a voltmeter and climbed under my dash and did a few checks.  He thinks the pedal switch is fine.  Looked like the fuse is OK too. Other lights, tailights, turn signals etc work.
The thinking is that leaves my turn signal switch as being the culprit.
Parts quality is sketchy these days.  Does anyone have a recommendation for a reliable one?
I'm going to Moparty next week and could seek one in the swap meet there.

[RUNCHARGER]

About 15 years ago Chrysler listed those in their Direct Connection catalogue under resto parts. I used a couple of them and they were great (the other aftermarket ones were junk). Probably not available anymore but maybe worth checking. I bought a couple of extras and still have them but I can't ship one to you so you'll have to find one in country.

[JH27N0B]

Thanks Sheldon.  It would be great if I could find one of those somewhere!
Would you happen to have the part number?  It would make online searching for one easier!

[Chryco Psycho]

TW7 from Rock Auto will work

[JH27N0B]

I tried searching TW7 and TW7 turn signal switch on rock autos site and not getting any results that look Ike the E body part.  Any hints to find it on their site?

[RUNCHARGER]

The DC part # was P04293102. There is one detail I just remembered (my memory is starting to become a curse), the knob was incorrect for 1970. Function is great and quality was OEM though.

[Jay Bee]

I don't believe the TW7 has the thin flasher knob BUT it can be swapped over. Cuda Cody mentions that in this video - start at the 24:19 mark.
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49L2sIR9OYc

[EV2RTSE]

@ RUNCHARGER any chance you could post a pic of that DC part? I'd be interested in seeing what that looks like compared to the original.

I recently finished restoring my 70 column and have a few others I may eventually rebuild so I spent some time searching for info on the replacement turn signal switches out there these days.

The original switches had a roller-ball horn contact that over the years got changed to a push button instead, some have questioned the quality of these. All of the aftermarket will have this push button style horn contact.

Rock Auto lists the SKP SKSM111 for a 70 Challenger for something like 25 bucks, I first picked up one of these but then found posts online where some people had issues with it.

The Standard Motor Products TW7 is listed at around 65 bucks - you have to look under 1973 for it. I haven't purchased this one but I bet too it would be a decent option for an aftermarket.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=43745&cc=1499050&pt=4832&jsn=714&_nck=oyash5NnbqaRTcAD75LFS36vXq5KlDk3eZc0ylTNOmc8xNZDxoSt5mtNY%2FHZ9yE9QQ82F0nDjIHDI0MpNSEBGOjwLPkpluxknm7RKQI2LhTEUSrsUME%2Bh7KHym%2BSF1L1uuTcCVIjQxUXHLacZ1H6BmksrvB2ydioKkaNr5OasG%2FMUxv%2BDdXneICSIWuj4fTYrJTXE6j3vcquT7xxGQ0T9P3hkxmfI73VmW7h5gRfEMw9LAjh%2FLaocWgKP4ouyWsYbO9dUdUfZwmJc2RMqNm%2FGHBB0%2BiMBJMLUN9Mprr%2FxiYMO0zD7f8lTVANwQloJYyq

I looked some more on the forums and found mentions of a company called Shee-Mar. They've been around since 1970 and seem to have a reputation of making quality products although some are now saying they've gone offshore as well. But I found the SM-111 can be purchased on Rock Auto also for something like 25 bucks, I bought one and it does seem to be of better quality than the SKP. You have to search for it by manufacturer and part number as it is basically listed for a Dodge truck, but Rock carries it.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1481982&cc=0&pt=4832&jsn=723&_nck=oyash5NnbqaRTcAD75LFS36vXq5KlDk3eZc0ylTNOmc8xNZDxoSt5mtNY%2FHZ9yE9QQ82F0nDjIHDI0MpNSEBGOjwLPkpluxknm7RKQI2LhTEUSrsUME%2Bh7KHym%2BSF1L1uuTcCVIjQxUXHLacZ1H6BmksrvB2ydioKkaNr5OasG%2FMUxv%2BDdXneICSIWuj4fTYrJTXE6j3vcquT7xxGQ0T9P3hkxmfI73VmW7h5gRfEMw9LAjh%2FLaocWgKP4ouyWsYbO9dUdUfZwmJc2RMqNm%2FGHBB0%2BiMBJMLUN9Mprr%2FxiYMO0zD7f8lTVANwQloJYyq

As a side note there are replacement turn signal cams out there and the Shee-Mar cams are way better than the others as well.

Regarding the emergency flasher knob - I think it was Tavis that came up with the idea of drilling out the small rivets that hold it together and then swapping out the knob from the 70 onto the new switch, and then using tiny screws and nylock nuts to put it back together. I tried this myself and it worked very well and was easy to do. I have a pic of the hardware sizes somewhere.

I found a post on facebook where it was mentioned that Roseville carries a switch that is still US-made, I'd be curious to know if it's the Shee-Mar or something else.

NOS 71-74 e-body switches still turn up every once in a while in the $200 range give or take, that might still be the best bet and then just swap out the 70 knob. They really just don't make them like they used to anymore.

In my case I was able to save a couple of original 70 switches by using the replacement Shee-Mar cams and doing some wire splicing. You might also be able to save your original switch depending on how far gone it is.

[EV2RTSE]

Something else I forgot to mention, switches like the TW7 have that extra plug which is apparently for the C-bodies with cornering lights, from what I understand this plug can just be left unused on an e-body.

And regarding that 4293102 switch - I guess this is it?
https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/4293102?srsltid=AfmBOoqY3gAgtt1QSoHvcF_c-H7HJrG6dTyYk0yNgwng1A1ZyFo6J0lS

Ouch
https://www.ebay.com/p/1311262049

[JH27N0B]

I had seen that one on Year Ones site and noticed the out of stock due to supply issues, which is worrisome.
Lots of great info and advice here, I appreciate everyone's help!
I'll make a list of part numbers and check out the swap at Moparty, maybe I'll get lucky.
Not that my luck has been good recently.  I haven't used my trailer this year, but planned to use for Moparty, so I went out to storage yesterday to give it a precheck. Tires look great, plugged in wiring and did a light check, A-OK.
Then I jacked up one side and had my friend hit the brakes, only one wheel wouldn't turn. Did the same on the other side, one wheel I couldn't move even with brakes not applied. The other spun while the brake pedal applied.  Then I put tried installing my hitch and connected the trailer.  Towed it at about 10 mph and used trailer brake control to try brakes.
I felt no braking.  Therefore I have no working brakes.  I'm not seeing a way to get fixed by midweek next week, so I won't use it to do an 800 mile round trip without trailer brakes. Seems like a bad idea!
I might rent an open to make the trip.  Lucky I decided not to take the T/A for the T/A AAR reunion there, I wouldn't take it there on an open trailer, along with the no brake lights issue would have killed that plan.
Well I have my late season projects now, fix T/A brake lights presumably by replacing turn signal switch, and replace brakes and/or wiring on my trailer that I didn't even get to use this year!

[torredcuda]

I bought one a few years ago and don`t remember where I got it from but it looks just like the SHEE-MAR one. I am not at all happy with it, yes it works but doesn`t feel like the factory one and it seems to need more turn to work the self cancel. I would love to find a better quality one with the roller ball like factory.

[MKA]

Evan's wiring has a 1970 and up listing for $70.   I'm sure it has some comprise as a generic fitting a, b and e bodies but they make everything they sell and you can ask them whatever you need to know.

[Katfish]

Lot of good info here, just a matter of time before I need one too.

[redAAR]

I had a reproduction turn signal switch installed in my 1970 AAR steering column during the car's restoration. The spring loaded part that rides against the turning steering wheel was only a metal post - no roller.  When I tore apart my steering column a couple of years later to replace the ignition switch there were already metal shards from the metal post deposited inside the steering column. I replaced the turn signal switch with an original, part number 2947905, which has the little wheel on the end of the spring loaded post, as mentioned above.  I think that's your best bet, but they're hard to find and expensive. This web site shows one available:  https://www.amsnos.com/PS.aspx

[Fire_Billy]

Congrats on getting the T/A fired up! Sounds like you've narrowed it down well. The turn signal switch is often the culprit for brake light issues. Moparty swap meet is a great place to find reliable parts, good luck hunting one down!