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Dash Light Panel Questions

Started by Gary AAR, December 11, 2019, 09:15:12 AM

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Gary AAR

As I looked over my dash light panel (see pictures below) from the rallye instrument cluster of my 1970 AAR Cuda, I noticed three of the four blue plastic lenses have indications of heat distortion from the light bulb mounted behind them.  Is this a common occurrence?  My panel had GE 1893 bulbs installed, and the original Service Manual calls for a GE 1816 bulb.  Some online research doesn't show a lot of difference between an 1893 vs 1816 (Design voltage 14 vs 13, Candlepower 2 vs 3). 

Does anyone reproduce the blue plastic lenses?
Has anyone tried to replace the blue plastic lenses?  They are riveted to the sheet metal panel, with not much room to access the rivet location.

Thanks for your help!

Burdar

At one time I think someone was trying to reproduce those.  Maybe it was Scott Smith?  Not sure if he actually got anything to the market though.  I think a lot of people are now switching to LED lights.  They put out more light and don't get hot.  Somewhere there is a post showing the bulbs to get.  You have to make sure they will fit inside the housing.  If you get green LEDs I don't think you even have to run the blue lenses.  Leaving them on won't hurt as long as enough light can still pass through them.

mccannix

You can check with Stephan at S F Restorations who's a member here.
I thought Jules had done these or was in the process of doing them some time ago.


Jay Bee

#3
I bought lenses from a place called Gotham City Muscle Cars back in 2014, however their website is dead when I looked today. There's an ebay listing but it has the wrong rivets. I used 1/8 dia tubular rivets and a rivet clincher to install them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RALLY-GAUGE-LIGHT-BAR-REPLACEMENT-LENS-KIT-70-71-72-73-74-CUDA-CHALLENGER/152826181253?hash=item2395267685:g:REsAAMXQ74JTP2zo

The ones I bought are in the picture. I saved Gotham's email address but I doubt that's any good anymore. You're welcome to it in a PM if you want.


Jay Bee

#5
Here's a picture from the web (originally on Moparts). The rivets look to black and longer than the 3/16 aluminum steel ones I used.  Edit: Just found my spares, they're steel.

71383bee

I recently replaced the bubs to LED in my challenger and it was a MAJOR improvement.  They are so bright I need to turn them down a little actually. 

I just searched on amazon for the equivalent bulb and settled on the T10 5-5050-SMD bulbs.  They were 5 to a pack and fit just fine.  Although i could no get one to work for the switch panel light which fits into a green lense.  The rest of the bar was fine though.  I did not change the green lenses you are looking at. 
73 Challenger Rallye - 340 4 speed - K6 w/ White Top
70 Challenger Convertible - 318 Auto - K5 w/ White Top


Katfish

#7
If you go LED, make sure to order Yellow, if you want to maintain the factory Green color.
Definitely brighter and less current draw.

Edit: I have Yellow LEDs, the yellow bulb with the Blue lenses gives the Green color.
I originally ordered White and the combo gave a bright Blue light.
Wild's pic reminded me, it's been awhile.


YellowThumper

Gutted mine and added a LED light bar.
Sticking with OEM disregard this.
Life is to be viewed thru the windshield. Not rear view mirror.
You are the only one in charge of your destiny.

Mike.

1 Wild R/T

Quote from: Katfish on December 13, 2019, 04:42:47 PM
If you go LED, make sure order green, if you want to maintain that color.
Definitely brighter and less current draw.



White bulbs and the stock lens in place....  It could stand to be dimmed a little more...

Gary AAR

Thanks for everyone's responses!  I have new reproduction blue lenses on order from Instrument Specialties.  Might try to use the following yellow LED bulbs from LampTech.  Anybody tried these?  The lower operating temperature shouldn't distort my new lenses, and as mentioned in earlier posts, the yellow colored bulb combined with the blue lens should give me the original green light color.

LampTech
Lamp# 1893 LED Equivalent Miniature Light Bulb
LED Equivalent Specifications:
Lamp Shape: T3.25 (10mm)
Base Style: Miniature Bayonet (BA9S)
Length MOL: 1.10"
Diameter MOD: 0.40"
Electrical Data: 6-28V AC/DC (Bi-Polar), 20ma
SKU: 1MB-Y-28 #1893
Minimum Purchase: 5 unit(s)
Price: $5.95
Features and Benefits:
- Up to 90% Energy Savings Over Incandescent Lamps
- Long Life, 100,000 hours, Almost 10 years
- Reduces Relamping Labor Cost
- Shock and Vibration Proof
- Lower Operating Temperature


YellowThumper

Cool. Report back with your findings and pics when done. As there have been many many discussions about the factory lighting issues.
Life is to be viewed thru the windshield. Not rear view mirror.
You are the only one in charge of your destiny.

Mike.

71383bee

Good Call on the yellow vs white.  I never even thought that one through!  Still quite happy with this very easy upgrade. 
73 Challenger Rallye - 340 4 speed - K6 w/ White Top
70 Challenger Convertible - 318 Auto - K5 w/ White Top

Burdar

There was a post about LEDs and it was suggested to use green.  I guess yellow works too but I ordered green.  Have not installed them yet though.

Racer57

I have green LEDs. Need to be really carefull twisting them into the sockets. They not as secure as standard bulbs are. I twisted two apart then started using electrical grease.