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Mounting top section of rear seat

Started by Rutro, October 21, 2019, 04:30:50 PM

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Rutro

I hope this is not a stupid question, but....
For a 70 Challenger, I know the top loops fit in the upper fingers. How are the bottom loops attached in the mounting brackets? Thanks y'all!!!

shawge

The loops at the bottom go on top of the mounting plates, bolts go through the loops into the plates.
1970 Challenger, 451 MS3Pro EFI
Colored wiring diagrams
Wheel spreadsheet

Rutro

Thanks, but I think I'm missing something on the brackets
The 1st picture is the driver side and the 2nd is the passenger side


anlauto

Yea the retainer plate is missing...it would be a pain in the ass, but you could use a nut and a bolt, or drill a hole for a self tapping screw :dunno:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Katfish

Mine looks the same, what does the mounting plate look like?

Rutro

Thanks, do you happen to have a picture of what it looks like?
Praying I have them in a box somewhere.
Thanks!

headejm

Looks like one of your sides is okay. Here's a pic.


anlauto

Quote from: Rutro on October 21, 2019, 07:33:32 PM
Thanks, do you happen to have a picture of what it looks like?
Praying I have them in a box somewhere.
Thanks!

You just posted a picture of what it looks like....it's supposed to be welded in there, it's not a "separate piece" :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Jay Bee

I put one of these 5/8 x 18 "U" nuts in place of the missing retaining plate on my car. I think it was the same type as used to mount fenders.

HEMICUDA

That plate you're missing is heat treated and spot welded to the back of the bracket you have left.  I've had to repair one in the past, take a piece of sheet metal the thickness of, say, the frame rail, sheet metal is a little to thin.  I drilled x2 1/4" holes in the bracket and plug welded the replacement plate in (since I own a welder).

The way I made the plate was cut the required size, drill a the hole smaller than you need then take a punch and drive it in the hole to get the correct taper.  The hole is going to stretch and become bigger (it may take a couple tries, I don't remember the bit size I used).  Sneak up on the hole with the punch until the hole is the correct size, use the bolt to pre-cut the threads in the hole then weld it in the car.

If having the exact correct bolt is what you're after, use this method, it worked well for me.  If that's not critical, I would do exactly what Jay Bee has suggested by using the same "U" nut off the bottom of the fender since the throat depth is deeper than, say, the one used to mount the top of the fender.

Jay Bee

I found one, maybe it's my missing one, and I chiseled off the one currently in my car.