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Frame Rack / Body Jig

Started by 70 Challenger Lover, January 05, 2020, 08:32:27 AM

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70 Challenger Lover

I've been kicking this idea around for more than a year. Nearly finished and thought I'd share it now. It is specifically for my next 1970 Challenger project but it will likely see use on any number of car restorations in the years to come.

The idea I wanted was something super heavy duty that could cradle the entire body, completely adjustable side to side and front to rear for all eight resting points, on wheels so I could bring it in and out of shelter as I do the metal repairs, be able to disassemble it for storage or moving, and remain sturdy enough to do frame pulls if needed.

Any of the eight uprights could easily be swapped out for different needs. I still need to construct the rear frame rail uprights but I'll wait until the car is on and I start putting in the new rear rails. Currently, all uprights are at the exact heights to mimic precise datum line measurements found on the factory frame dimension charts.

I wouldn't mind adding some sort of Jack thread levelers on all corners to get the car leveled out each time it gets moved. Probably not necessary unless I need to take plumb line measurements off of certain things like shock towers.


gzig5

What are the length and width of the it?  What size and thickness tubing did you use?
I like the adjust-ability that is built in but would be concerned with rigidity.  But I've never used one so it may not be an issue.

jimynick

Please don't use that for frame pulling; you and it won't be happy. A 10 ton puller will make spaghetti out of it. Otherwise, it looks good and should be a great assembly jig.  :cheers:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"


70 Challenger Lover

It's about 16 feet long and the cross beams are 7.5 feet wide though they could be any width there. There is no way this thing is going to bow with just the weight of a bare shell on it. An entire car perhaps but not an empty shell. That was why I used the heavy wall tubing and put the two long beams on top of one another. I put hundreds of pounds in the middle of it and it didn't flex in the slightest.

It's all 3/16" square tubing and it weighs a ton. I'm estimating the overall weight around 800 pounds plus. I don't believe I'd have much need as a frame puller in the strictest sense but I could see making minor pulls here and there. If there was a need in that, I'd break all spot welds and move a rail up or down or side to side. In all likelihood, this won't ever be used for anything more than assembling parts for welding.

JS29

For any kind of hard pulls, the vehicle has to be clamped to the table. with out torque boxes the pinch weld area is prone to flex or worse.  :alan2cents:

70 Challenger Lover

Yes. If there are any pulls, they would be mild ones. This will be used more for assembling pieces so I can ensure everything stays straight. If I needed any major pulls, I'd remove the bent pieces and reinstall new straight pieces instead.

JS29

@70ChallengerLover When it comes to unibodies, I like to make a pull or two before I replace a part. Because everything is connected, and can effect the alignment of other connecting parts.  :alan2cents:   


RUNCHARGER

I remember asking my Friend Herman why he was jacking up the wrecked roof of a rollover Dodge Pick up 30 years ago. That's when I learned that yes you get everything lined up and fitting before you cut the parts off or you'll have really big problems on your hands fitting the new stuff.
Sheldon