Snap-On Toolbox Emblem Removal

[PLY474]

I'm rejuvenating my father-in-law's Snap-On toolbox that I inherited.  It's a 1990 model, 70th Anniversary.  There are very long emblems on the upper and lower ends that I would like to remove for paint & polish and to treat the rust underneath.  Each emblem has a couple of cast pins and a retainer that I am not familiar with.  See pictures.  Does anyone know how to remove this retainer without breaking the pin?  Is the retainer a push nut style that is external only?  Or is it a drywall anchor style that was inserted from the emblem side?  I've poked and pried them and they're not moving with moderate force. 

[71vert340]

 It almost looks like the rusty part is a split type fastener that if you pried it open along the split in your photos, it would loosen it's grip on the stud on the emblem. just a guess.
Terry W.

[1 Wild R/T]

The rusty fastener is called a barrel nut.... Get behind the barrel nut & push on the end of the pin, it's just a friction fit, no threads...

They are inserted from the front... Being rusty it might not release easily, try tapping the back of the plastic stud with a small hammer...

[jimynick]

"The rusty fastener is called a barrel nut" Yep, what the man said. They can grab pretty hard sometimes and I'd take a fine pick and wiggle those sides with an eye to loosening their grip on the shaft of the name plate. You could also use a appropriately sized flat ended drift to give the pins a push, but be careful, as you know they're plastic. Sometimes you can grab the sides of the barrel clip with a pair of needle-nose pliers and squeeze the sides enough to get them to slide back out of the panel they're going through- sometimes. Patience and determination will pay dividends here. Good luck. 

[anlauto]

First I've heard of "tool box restoration"   

[PLY474]

@1 Wild R/T  @jimynick  You guys are awesome!  Thank you!  I get it now. 

[PLY474]

First I've heard of "tool box restoration"   

Definitely a labor of love.  Lots of surface area to clean with 22 drawers and 44 ball bearing slides.  The castors are looking better.   

[PLY474]

Any recommendations for ball bearing drawer slide lubrication?  The internet offers varying opinions.  Most didn't recommend wheel bearing grease as it will get sticky and thicken with dust.  Some recommended dry PTFE spray lubricant, others light engine oil.  I have light grease NLGI 00, I'm considering. 

[jimynick]

Well, if you've looked at the price of SnapOn tool boxes lately, the more sense it'll make. It's not difficult to spend $10,000.00+ for just a top box and roll cab!! They were always lifetime guaranteed for defects, but not appearance and the original poster has an expensive box given to him and I applaud his restoring it. That box will last you a lifetime and still keep on ticking when your heir gets it next. Good on you! 

[JS29]

That bottom section is ten grand all day long off the Snap-on truck. My bright Orange top and bottom are valued at eighteen. But some people don't get that i guess.I Restored My friend and mentor's 1958 Snap-on three tier box he left me. My tool man wants to buy it. I told him to talk to the executor of my estate after i an dead.   

[TGGodfrey]

@PLY474 I might have those emblems new in the snap on packaging if something goes wrong.  They just pop off.

[PLY474]

@TGGodfrey  I appreciate that offer.  So far, so good.  I got the long emblems done.  Still have the short emblems to do.  Had I broke a long emblem, I'd be in a panic, so thank you for reaching out.  Any chance you have the anodize aluminum edge guards that run vertically and/or their plastic top caps?  See picture.  The anodizing is tarnished and I'm thinking of striping it off and polishing the bare aluminum. 

I was able to remove the emblems with 2 scrape blades, first to break the molding tape, then to alternately load (rocking motion) the pin and barrel nut.  Eventually it let go without breaking.  Snap-on used molding tape full length on the emblem.  I replaced it with 3M auto molding tape. 

I'm making progress on the main box.  Rusty areas were cleaned with Rustoleum rust dissolver, then shot with clear, and blended with polishing compound.  Overall, I like the look.  I wanted to preserve the distress and character. 

[TGGodfrey]

@PLY474 I dont have the vertical trim pieces.  I have always thought about that day though.  Couple ways to do it, you could have them anodized.  Personally, i like the idea of polishing them.  You could also do a brushed finish too.

Looks nice so far.

Terry

[70 Top Banana]

Restoring old tool boxes, machinists boxes, workstations is becoming a big deal. I have done some of these. Here is a picture of the mechanics workstation I bought out of an old abandoned dealership in Indiana. It was made around 1955-56, somewhere around there. I blew it apart and completely restored it.They were at the end of each bay and used by mechanics for tool storage, store their uniforms on the left and on the right was shelves for things like filters, plugs, etc.. this one was originally painted  a hammer tone beige/ gold. I didn't like it so I painted it 1956 colors Shoreline Beige and Turquoise. I also have a set of upper cabinets to match, second picture.

[70 Top Banana]

Here is the workstation. First pic was the wall cabinets.