2 Piece vs 1 Piece front to rear brake lines

[Cuda_mark]

I'm looking to buy a set of pre-bent lines for my vert. It's a 70 with a HEMI.

In Line tube lists 2 different kits.
PEB7008 - 1970 power disc, 8 piece set, 1 piece front to rear
PEB7009 - 1970 power disc, 9 piece set, 2 piece front to rear

Does anyone know why there are 2 different options?

[anlauto]

Do you have a little brass "T" shaped block mounted to the frame rail underneath the car just before the transmission cross member?

[Cuda_mark]

Do you have a little brass "T" block mounted to the frame rail underneath the car just before the transmission cross member?

@anlauto Alan - the car was in pieces when I got it so I'm starting with a blank slate. I'm trying to do it as close to factory as possible without going too crazy (I'm using stainless lines, not factory steel, for example).

So there isn't a T block on the frame. If it belongs there, I would have to get one.

Mark

[340challconvert]

I am redoing my braking system. My A66, 340 Challenger came with the 2 piece front to rear brake line and had the t-fitting which is located on the frame, right below the driver's seat.

Not sure why the one line vs two line was used, but I do know the hemi ebodys used a 1 1/8 bore Master Cylinder vs a 1" bore on non-hemi cars with disc brakes.

One caveat: If you are using the stainless lines rather the oem steel, make sure that the flares are seated correctly.  My own experience; they are more difficult to get seated properly and could leak.  I have spoke to others on this who have had similar problems.

[anlauto]

I don't know the ins and outs of which car gets them...sorry

[Gary]

If you are using stainless line, put a little anti seize between the back of the flare and the tube nut.  It makes life a lot easier. The problem is stainless has a tendency to gall and you can't tighten the nut, using anti seize eliminates the problem.  I always thought the one piece was for drum brakes and the two piece was for disc.

[1 Wild R/T]

The T isn't a T, it's a valve... It delays pressure to the rear brakes in an attempt to prevent rear lock up....  Early 70 disc brake cars don't seem to have it, later disc brake cars do, it was eliminated when the proportioning valve was redesigned........ Personally I buy the two piece & use that location to install an adjustable proportioning valve...

[Cuda_mark]

I am redoing my braking system. My A66, 340 Challenger came with the 2 piece front to rear brake line and had the t-fitting which is located on the frame, right below the driver's seat.

@340challconvert I was researching it in the MMC guide and it says that the intermediate block was found on some early 70's. What is the production month of your vert? Mine is 3/70.

[340challconvert]

Thanks for the info Wild.
The SPD of my 340 convertible is October 6, 1969.  It's a pretty early car and I have the intermediate valve. 
They must have redesigned the proportioning and intermediate valve pretty early in production?

[Brads70]

If you are using stainless line, put a little anti seize between the back of the flare and the tube nut.  It makes life a lot easier. The problem is stainless has a tendency to gall and you can't tighten the nut, using anti seize eliminates the problem.  I always thought the one piece was for drum brakes and the two piece was for disc.

Thanks, I'll give that a try next time. I found you need to really tighten the line and loosen , and repeat 4-5 times then they seem to seat and not leak?

[jimynick]

If you are using stainless line, put a little anti seize between the back of the flare and the tube nut.  It makes life a lot easier. The problem is stainless has a tendency to gall and you can't tighten the nut, using anti seize eliminates the problem.  I always thought the one piece was for drum brakes and the two piece was for disc.

Thanks, I'll give that a try next time. I found you need to really tighten the line and loosen , and repeat 4-5 times then they seem to seat and not leak?

Boy, I wish I'd've seen this before we put the stainless lines in my car! I was all set to call Inline and tear a strip off their ass, but we finally got the master lines to stop leaking - AFTER we'd had them on and off 2-3 times looking for the issue. My old man always said "son, put a little lube on things and they go in easier" and here I was thinking he was talking dirty, LOL! 

[RUNCHARGER]

The Stainless take a little effort to seal all right. I was thinking the same as Wild for the Prop Valve in that spot. It's a natural.

[anlauto]

I'm going to try that anti-seize on my next SS car...I've got one coming up

[RUNCHARGER]

It should help all right. I've never had one leak but the S/S needs tightening down pretty tight.

[HEMICUDA]

The metering valve on the inner frame rail was used early in production.  I would suggest calling Finelines for your lines, Bob should have the metering valve as well as the bracket (I made the bracket for him).  I'm not sure if he has any prop valves left.  If you're using a new prop valve, they were assembled incorrectly, there is a cup washer installed up side down and causes the rear brakes to lock up.  Finelines was correcting this issue on all the valves he was being supplied from MBM, the company that had the valves reproduced.  He never could get them to correct that issue, that's why there has been so many issues with the valve if purchased from any other supplies other than Finelines.  Also, the valves were being supplied without the little round rubber boot that we made for Finelines.  I'm pretty sure Bob sold all his remaining boots to Jim at Detroit Muscle Technologies.

Stainless steel lines?  I haven't used them for years, I have standard steel lines on may cars I've restored more than 10 years ago and still look as good as the day installed.  The flare on a stainless steel line is as hard as a rock and will not take the shape of the seat in the valve, I will never use SS lines again on any of my cars.