Slappers or Caltracs with B Body/Dr Diff setup?

[FSHTAIL]

My car currently has slapper bars on it, but after I do the 8 3/4 b-body and the doctor diff offset kit, what are my choices?

I'm not entirely sure I'll be able to use slapper bars if I'm going to use every inch I can for the widest wheels and tires.

Who's running the b-body 8 3/4 with some sort of traction mods?

The search feature blows.     
I like to search the stuff versus asking if it's already been addressed

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[Chryco Psycho]

Caltracs are useless IMO we dialed in a Duster 1.72 ish 60 ' times installed Caltracs & dialed them in & we got 1.72 60 ' times
What I do is to install extra 1/2 leafs . forward only& use a square U bolt to clamp the springs tight , this provides the best results I have found or step to a floater / ladder bar system

[RUNCHARGER]

I have ran Caltracs with the Dr. Diff B-body setup, however we didn't back to back test it and I respect CP's opinion. I too have had excellent results with leaf springs as he described. The car we ran Caltracs on had worn out 340 springs to start with so anything would be an improvement.

[Cudakiller70]

Caltracs are useless IMO we dialed in a Duster 1.72 ish 60 ' times installed Caltracs & dialed them in & we got 1.72 60 ' times
What I do is to install extra 1/2 leafs . forward only& use a square U bolt to clamp the springs tight , this provides the best results I have found or step to a floater / ladder bar system

@Chryco Psycho Are those 1/2 leafs DIY cut from a whole leaf spring or are they purchased?

[Chryco Psycho]

I agree @RUNCHARGER if you start with nothing anything will help but if you have the car well dialed in & add Caltracs the gains is minimal if any in my experience .
Much the same as when your engine is running poorly so you do the MSD & it immediately runs better , but if you do a full tune up & them add MSD not so much .
I have used what I could find typically, so I will cut up a used set of leafs & even drill the center hole to make the extra leafs in the length I need .

[FSHTAIL]

I agree @RUNCHARGER if you start with nothing anything will help but if you have the car well dialed in & add Caltracs the gains is minimal if any in my experience .
Much the same as when your engine is running poorly so you do the MSD & it immediately runs better , but if you do a full tune up & them add MSD not so much .
I have used what I could find typically, so I will cut up a used set of leafs & even drill the center hole to make the extra leafs in the length I need .

Good to know about the caltrac bars.        I've never ran them.   

Several friends suggestions.   


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[HP2]

Cal-Tracs were developed by a Ford racer in a NHRA Super Stock class that was limited to stock mounting points for suspension components. The Cal-Trac motion was designed to copy the un-equal length Mopar SS spring action on an equal length spring that was inherent to the Ford, but never found under a Mopar. This is why the gains of Cal-Trac equiped Fords and Chevys see such significant gains and they have generated such a positive response from so many users.

[Crash520]

I agree @RUNCHARGER if you start with nothing anything will help but if you have the car well dialed in & add Caltracs the gains is minimal if any in my experience .
Much the same as when your engine is running poorly so you do the MSD & it immediately runs better , but if you do a full tune up & them add MSD not so much .
I have used what I could find typically, so I will cut up a used set of leafs & even drill the center hole to make the extra leafs in the length I need .

So add the extra half spring to the top right? And take it all the way forward to the eye, then clamp the daylights out of it, that way the rest of the spring pack stay clamped together at the centre bolt

[RUNCHARGER]

That's pretty much it Greg. You want to have one or two more half leafs pointing forward on the right side. If you do both sides the same and you have a bit of torque the car will tend to want to turn left when you nail it and you don't correct with the steering wheel. If you bias them correctly it will try to leap straight forward. You will be adding under the main leaf as it sits in the car. You can actually add full leafs and just clamp them in the front but the rear half will fan out, however that sometimes is the way you have to do it to fit long front segments into the spring pack.

[Crash520]

Thanks Sheldon
I was going to add on top of the main leaf! I have a truck leaf that's like 3/8"thick maybe a little more, I was going to cut it so as it kind of wedged in under or up to the front eye of the main leaf and let it run to the back of the spring pearch then clamp it good and solid along the front segment on the right spring and then add the same but a little thinner on the left. That way the std spring pack stays as is in a pack. Basically making the front segment almost solid

[RUNCHARGER]

That should work fine. I figure doubling up the front segment right to the spring eye should do the most good, especially on the right spring.