LCA Rebuild Parts?

[gzig5]

I'm putting together a parts list to rebuild the front suspension on my 73 Cuda.  I'm doing a stock type rebuild at this time using MOOG parts wherever possible.  Just have better places to spend available funds than on upgraded control arms, torsion bars, and all that but it will happen at some point.   Question is, what might I need other than the bushing in the lower control arm assembly?  Do the shaft or torsion adjusters see any wear?  I see PST has a kit that includes those parts but most kits I see don't have them.  I will be adding reinforcing plates that I'll hack out of some 10ga steel I have.

[Burdar]

All you should need is the bushing.  You should be able to reuse the pin and the adjusting bolt/block.

Getting the outer sleeve out of the LCA can be a PITA.  I think they make a tool for that.  It depends on if you think it's worth the cost.  I've done it a couple times and just use an air chisel and some time.   I've seen people use a large 1 3/8" tap(don't quote me on the size) and thread that into the sleeve.  Then you can use a press to remove the sleeve.  I bought a tap on ebay but could never get it threaded into the sleeve.  Maybe I bought the wrong tap?  I've also seen people weld washers to the inside of the sleeve and press against that.  I tried that too but the washer just broke. 

As far as the reinforcement plates are concerned, it's debated on if they actually do any good.  I think it was @autoxcuda that posted pictures of his LCAs.  He just added a small strap to the back side to tighten up the adjusting blade.

Check your parts carefully when you get them.  Even Moog parts don't seem to be as good as they used to be.  One of my lower bushings I received was defective right out of the box.  Also an idler arm was assembled incorrectly.  The replacement is hard to move in the K-member.  I'm debating on replacing it with another brand.

[7212Mopar]

I followed what others had done by welding large washer to the sleeve and then press it out.

[gzig5]

Cool. Thanks for the quick replies.  I have lathes, milling machines, presses, and welders so I think I'll be able to get the bushing out one way or the other.  Looks like there are several potential methods.

[1 Wild R/T]

I too bought a tap, 1 3/8 is what the service manual cals for.... Got it on Ebay $20 delivered... Haven't tried it yet.... I've done the welded washer method, sometimes it works great, other times the welds pop repeatedly....  Air chisel works but what a PITA... I happen to have a 6' section of solid steel rod (old hydraulic cylinder rod) the perfect diameter ( i think 1.250, might be 1.312) to slide in the bushing sleeve.... I've been cutting off a slice about .5" thick, drop it in the sleeve then tack it in a couple spots.... Pushes out every time......

[Burdar]

I too bought a tap, 1 3/8 is what the service manual cals for.... Got it on Ebay $20 delivered... Haven't tried it yet....

The one I bought has 8 flutes on it I think.  Others were using taps with less.  Maybe that's why I couldn't get it started.  I even tried machining more of a taper into the ends but could never get it to start.

[autoxcuda]

The pins are non wear.

But they can be damaged by:
poor install and removal techniques
someone driving the car for a long period with severely damaged or missing rubber.
Past accident.

Inspect and if ok reuse

[76orangewagon]

I know Moog use to be considered the best parts but when I rebuilt my uppers the ball joint wouldn't draw down tight so I tried one by AC Delco and it tightened right up. As far as the lowers go I remove the rubber and weld a thick washer to the outer shell and press it out, make sure you only press the new one in by pressing on the outer shell.

[RUNCHARGER]

I've never had that much luck welding washers to them. I usually wait until I'm in a fairly bad mood about something else and then I attack those bushings with a die grinder and an air chisel.

[Brads70]

I've never had that much luck welding washers to them. I usually wait until I'm in a fairly bad mood about something else and then I attack those bushings with a die grinder and an air chisel.

  I drilled holes in the rubber and used a propane  torch to  get them out. The previous methods might be better but that's what worked for me. I reused the shells as I'm using poly bushings and greasable pins.
Good video in case you haven't seen it before..

Tap method ( that I've never tried?)

Bushing/pin installation ....

I did this but used firm feel parts

If you use the greasable pin ( PST or firm feel) I threw it up on the lathe to make the grease groove go all the way around instead of just a hole.

[73_Cuda_4_Me]

 

Word of warning - make sure to unload the TB's by raising front end and allowing control arms to drop as far as possible before trying to remove the TB adjusters! Bolts have been known to strip and become projectiles, so SAFETY FIRST.

I had to replace one of mine that I couldn't break loose, and had to torch it. Replaced both for the heck of it...

I used die grinder and chisel method on both upper and lower bushings, and Moog rubber replacements - happy with all...

[B5blueRT]

I just removed my LCA bushings recently and this is what worked for me. After removing the rubber and the inner sleeve which were destroyed and pulled out easily,Instead of welding a washer , I welded A 3/4" nut to the sleeve and threaded a 10" piece of ready rod through the torsion bar socket into the nut to keep everything straight. I then positioned the lca on a bench top hand press and they slid out like Butter. This might not work for everyone but it worked for me. Always use caution when operating any type of press.

[B5blueRT]

Another Pic

[Timbbuc2]

@Brads70 I did the same thing as you did.

[dave73]

Yea I burned out my bushings with a propane torch and a tiny bit of lighter fluid. Then replaced with poly bushings. It worked so oh well