magnum 500 wheel

[facair55]

Have just installed a DB1302P disk brake kit on my 1970 Challenger, all went well until I tried to mount the Magnum 500 wheels.
They start to go on until they hit a 1/16" ridge (see pic). I believe if I can remove it down to 2.75" the wheels will fit? Just wanted to know if anyone else has had this problem. The wheels are aftermarket, and believe they are 15x7. Would not like to buy new wheels.

Thanks for any help on this.

[MoparLeo]

You just found out the difference between a Ford wheel and a Mopar wheel.
Although both share the same bolt circle, the Ford used a smaller register (center o/d diameter of the hub).
The smaller center sized Ford wheels will sometimes not seat fully on the Mopar Hub.

[facair55]

So, if I understand right, I need (2) Magnum 500 "Mopar wheels" and that will fix my wheel issue.

Thanks for replying back.

[Mr Cuda]

 I feel  that more information might be helpful.
 Yes, Ford uses  2 different pilot holes, the change was in 69. (Former ford guy)
 The small pilot was small , like early A body, and definitely won't fit regular mopar pilot.
 I see you have new rotors, and if you have 15x7 magnums,  they are aftermarket.  So tolerance stacking.
 I have some on my car.
 The aftermarket wheels are made for Ford. There are small pads on the inside of the wheel hub that center the wheels
 Large pilot Ford is a couple of thousands smaller than mopar, but we are talking a quick hit with a grinding disc or die grinder.

[facair55]

Thanks for that information, very helpful. What area do I take off? A picture would help. Thanks again for your help.

[MoparLeo]

There is a reason that modern aftermartket wheels have a tighter fit.
In the old days wheels using lug nuts established their hub to rim centerline via the lug nut holes. The weight of the vehivle was carried by the studs so if the lunuts  were not torqued properly the lugnut seats would wear unlevenly causing a wheel to no longet spin true to the hub. Result, vibration.
Modern wheel/hub fit is called "hub centric". Similar in theory to floating hub used on commercial trucks, the wheel is centered and supported by the hub, not the lugnut holes. The lugnuts just hold the wheel to the hub, the hub wheel centered by use of either dapater rings or just precision fit if the hub and wheel are of the same manufacturer.
 You have to remember that Factory wheels are specifically designed by that particular manufacturers engineers to have to fit there own axles and hubs. The offsets are designed for their own body/fender/chassis dimensions.
 Aftermarket wheels are normally designed to use a compromise offset and center hub dimension . This way they can make a single mold/die which is the most expensive part of the wheels cost.
 By just drilling the rim to a particular cars bolt circle they can use a single wheel to fit many different brands/models of cars.
 Being that any part that is a compromise, is by nature not the best fit and you will run into various fit/application problems from time to time depending on the wheel design.
There is much more to a wheel than its bolt pattern.
 

[facair55]

Thanks for all who offered advice on my wheel problem. After a "Little" grinding now able to mount the wheels.

[MoparLeo]

Now you can check for runout.

[6PKRTSE]

There is enough meat on the rotors to be able to turn the hub diameter down to fit with the center of the wheel.
I have Ferd 15" Magnum 500 wheels with Mopar center caps on my other Charger but with factory rotors and they fit fine.